Nestled beneath the iconic Arenal Volcano in Costa Rica's Alajuela province — La Fortuna is a thrilling adventure hub bursting with natural hot springs dramatic waterfalls zip-line tours white-water rafting and extraordinary wildlife — making it one of Central America's most unmissable destinations.
Costa Rica: Alajuela – Volcan Arenal
🌋 Arenal — Costa Rica’s Sleeping Giant (Who Might Not Be Sleeping That Deeply)
Arenal has, in recent times, been the most active volcano in Costa Rica — and when we say recent, we mean it. Right up until roughly a decade ago, you could stand there in the warm tropical night and watch genuine rivers of red lava crawling down the flanks of what is, frankly, a suspiciously perfect cone. It looks like a child drew it. Perfectly symmetrical, brooding, dramatic. Arenal sat dormant for around 400 years before it woke up rather spectacularly in 1968 — more on that in a moment — and then spent the next four decades putting on a show that made it one of the most visited volcanoes on the planet.
These days, it has gone quiet again. Nobody knows for how long. Volcanologists, for all their instruments and expertise, will tell you with a straight face that they simply cannot say when the glowing red-orange cone will once again dominate the night sky. Could be next year. Could be two hundred years. That sort of uncertainty is either thrilling or deeply unsettling, depending on your disposition. Even in its dormant state, the peak remains an imposing and rather beautiful sight — when you can actually see it, which, as it turned out, we could not.
The top of Arenal is, more often than not, buried in cloud. During our three-day stay in the area, we didn’t get so much as a glimpse of the summit. Not once. Now, for most visitors this would be a source of considerable frustration, given that the whole point of coming here is to gawp at a volcano. For us, living as we do in a part of the USA where several volcanoes are a perfectly ordinary part of the daily backdrop, we were not exactly heartbroken. We managed to cope.
🗺️ Arenal Volcano National Park — The Lay of the Land
Arenal Volcano National Park sits about 15 kilometres from the town of La Fortuna, tucked between the foothills of the Cordillera de Tilarán mountain range to the south and the broad San Carlos plains stretching away to the north. The park covers a substantial 12,124 hectares and is, unsurprisingly, one of the most visited destinations in Costa Rica’s Northern Zone. There are several official trails within the park boundary — Heliconias, Coladas, Tucanes, and Los Miradores — each threading through a remarkable mix of flora and fauna, with the added geological novelty of actual hardened lava fields left behind by past eruptions.
The park also takes in Lake Arenal, which at 85 square kilometres is the largest lake in Costa Rica. It’s a proper lake — not a puddle, not a pond — and it dominates the landscape to the west of the volcano in a rather pleasing way.
🔥 Arenal 1968 — Named After the Year Everything Went Wrong
Rather than heading into the national park itself, we chose to spend our time on a nearby private reserve called Arenal 1968, which takes its name from the single most dramatic event in the volcano’s modern history — and, arguably, one of the most significant natural disasters in all of Costa Rica’s recorded past.
On 29th July 1968, after roughly four centuries of silence, Arenal erupted with a violence that nobody in the area was remotely prepared for. The eruption sent pyroclastic flows — fast-moving avalanches of superheated gas, ash and rock — tearing across the landscape at terrifying speed. Three towns were destroyed: Tabacón, Pueblo Nuevo, and San Luis. Somewhere between 87 and 100 people were killed, depending on which account you read, along with thousands of head of cattle. The entire western flank of the volcano was stripped of its forest. The topography of the region was, quite literally, rewritten overnight. What had been farmland and jungle became a vast, blackened field of lava rock and ash.
It was, in short, a very bad day.
The reserve that now bears the year’s name offers some of the best access to the resulting lava fields, and the two trails — the Bosque (Forest) Trail and the Colada (Flow) Trail — take you right through the evidence of what happened. Walking among those lava rocks, with the forest slowly reasserting itself around the edges, gives you a genuine sense of just how powerful the whole business was.
🥾 The Trails — Bosque and Colada
The Colada Trail runs to around 4 kilometres (2.4 miles). Colada translates roughly as “flow” or “wash” in Spanish, which gives you the general idea — this is the trail that takes you closest to the remnants of the 1968 lava flows, with the best open views back up towards the volcano itself.
The Bosque Trail — the Forest Trail — is slightly longer at around 4.7 kilometres (3 miles), and earns its moderate-to-difficult rating honestly. The terrain involves steep sections, a generous helping of exposed tree roots, and enough rocks underfoot to keep you paying attention. The trail eventually meets up with the Colada near the main viewpoint of Volcán Arenal, then drops down through thick rainforest to reach Lago Los Patos — Duck Lake, to give it its rather charming English translation — which sits at around 22 metres (72 feet) deep. Duck Lake was formed directly as a result of the 1968 eruptions, which does give it a somewhat unusual origin story. After the lake, the trail levels out, passing through open fields and crossing a series of small streams before eventually looping back.
The two trails can be combined into a single 7-kilometre circuit, which took us about two and a half hours — including a handful of stops along the way that were entirely justified and not at all just excuses to catch our breath.
One small wrinkle: the trails traditionally run clockwise, but at some point during or after the Covid-19 pandemic — which began in earnest in early 2020 and disrupted rather a lot of things, including apparently the directional conventions of walking trails in Costa Rica — the reserve switched to an anti-clockwise route. No one explained exactly why. These things happen.
So off we went in the anti-clockwise direction, starting along the Colada Trail. The path began wide and reasonably flat, which we appreciated. It was not yet uncomfortably hot or sticky, which we also appreciated. The jungle on either side was dense and impressively alive — enormous tree roots snaking across the path, the canopy thick enough overhead to filter the light down into something pleasantly dappled. Every so often, the foliage opened up just enough to offer a glimpse across open pastures that nudged right up against the edge of the forest, reminding you that the boundary between farmland and wilderness here is a surprisingly fluid thing.
After a couple of kilometres the trail shook off its gentle manners and got serious. The wide, flat path narrowed considerably and began snaking its way up a sharp ridge — the kind of ridge that makes you quietly reassess your fitness levels. This was proper lava field territory now. The rocks were everywhere underfoot, the gradient steepened without much apology, and the occasional scramble was required to make any meaningful upward progress.
Eventually, and with some relief, we hauled ourselves up to the viewpoint at the top of the ridge. This is supposedly one of the finest spots in the entire reserve to look upon Arenal Volcano in all its brooding, conical glory.
Supposedly.
The summit was, of course, completely buried in cloud. We stood there hopefully, watching the sky do what skies in tropical rainforest environments do with considerable enthusiasm — produce more cloud. There were moments of genuine optimism. The cover would thin, a gap would appear, we’d lean forward expectantly — and then another great rolling lump of white would drift in from nowhere and seal things off again. We did this several times before accepting the situation with the dignity it deserved.
On the positive side, the views of Lake Arenal were genuinely magnificent. The lake spread out beautifully below us, the mountains beyond fading into a satisfying blue haze. That alone was worth the climb.
After twenty minutes of optimistic cloud-watching and one rather good lake view, we pressed on.
At the junction of the Colada and Bosque Trails, we had a choice: cut things short and head back to the trailhead, or push on into the forest. We took the Bosque Trail, naturally. Nobody comes all this way to take the easy option.
The change in character was immediate. The path narrowed, steepened, and turned considerably rockier underfoot — a proper trail now, rather than a pleasant woodland stroll. After a while the rocks gave way to a different hazard entirely: tree roots, thick and gnarled, criss-crossing the path in every direction. The previous day’s rain had left them slick as ice, which kept us rather focused on where exactly we were putting our feet. One lapse of concentration and you’d be admiring the forest canopy from an unplanned horizontal position.
The descent ran for roughly 2 kilometres before the ground mercifully levelled out and we arrived at Lago Los Patos — Duck Lake.
Beyond Duck Lake the trail mercifully flattened out, though it wasn’t entirely without incident. A couple of stream crossings broke up the walking — the path dropping down each time to either a narrow wooden bridge or, in the more adventurous cases, a row of steppingstones. Nothing remotely dramatic, but enough to keep you on your toes.
Along the way there were a few quirky touches, including a scale model of the volcano — which, given that we’d spent three days failing to actually see the real thing through the clouds, turned out to be surprisingly useful. At least we now knew what we’d been missing.
Eventually we reached the visitor centre: a small gift shop, and a genuinely lovely café with an observation deck offering sweeping views of Arenal and the surrounding countryside. Cloud permitting, obviously.
We’d seen precisely nothing in the way of wildlife during the hike itself, which was mildly disappointing — though, to be fair, spotting animals wasn’t really the point of the exercise.
As we pulled out of the Arenal 1968 car park and headed back towards the main road, we noticed what every seasoned wildlife-spotter quickly learns to recognise as an extremely promising sign: a cluster of cars pulled over haphazardly and a gaggle of people all staring intently at the same patch of trees. In the wildlife-watching world, this is essentially the equivalent of a Michelin star. You don’t question it — you just stop.
And it delivered. A toucan, doing its best to look nonchalant whilst being absolutely magnificent, and a troop of Howler monkeys — complete with babies — going about their business just above our heads.
Worth the wait. Absolutely worth the wait.
Planning your visit to Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal
🌋 Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal
| 📍 Location | La Fortuna, 21007, Alajuela, Costa Rica (15 km from La Fortuna town) | 🕖 Opening Times | Daily, 8:00 AM – 4:00 PM (last entry 2:30 PM) |
| 🌐 Website | sinac.go.cr | 📞 Phone | +506 2200-4192 |
🎟️ Entry Fees
| Foreign Nationals (Adult) | Children | Costa Rican Residents |
|---|---|---|
| US$15 + tax | US$5 + tax | ₡1,000 |
ℹ️ Tickets are purchased at the entrance; no advance booking required. The park has two sectors — the Volcano Sector (main visitor centre) and the Peninsula Sector (open until 5:00 PM, last entry 4:00 PM). Facilities include ranger station, trails, restrooms, and drinking water.
🚗 How to Get There
| 🚗 By Car | From San José, take the Inter-American Highway west to San Ramón, then head north through La Tigra and Chachagua to La Fortuna, then Route 142 for 17 km. Approx. 2.5–3 hrs. | ✈️ By Air | SANSA operates daily flights from Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO) to La Fortuna Arenal Airport (FON). Approx. 1 hr. |
| 🚌 By Public Bus | Direct buses depart San José (Terminal San Carlos) at 6:15 AM, 8:40 AM, and 11:30 AM to La Fortuna. Approx. 3–4 hrs. A taxi from La Fortuna to the park entrance takes around 15 mins. | 🚐 By Shuttle | Shared shuttles depart San José and SJO Airport daily (approx. 8:00 AM and 1:00 PM). Approx. 3–3.5 hrs to La Fortuna. From $47 per person. |
ℹ️ There is no public transport directly to the park entrance. From La Fortuna, a taxi or rental car is needed for the final 15 km. A standard car is sufficient year-round; 4WD is not required.
The Best Time to Visit La Fortuna
☀️ Dry Season: December to April
The dry season is widely regarded as the most popular time to visit La Fortuna, and for good reason. Rainfall is minimal, skies are clearer, and the roads, trails, and hanging bridges of the Arenal Volcano National Park are at their most accessible. Temperatures hover between 24°C and 30°C, making outdoor activities comfortable and predictable. This is the best window for hiking to the lava fields, white-water rafting on the Sarapiquí and Balsa rivers, zip-lining through the forest canopy, and soaking in the La Fortuna Waterfall without the risk of trail closures.
December and January are peak holiday months, meaning accommodation prices rise and popular hotspots such as Baldi Hot Springs can feel crowded. February and March are considered the sweet spot — still dry, but slightly calmer in terms of visitor numbers. April begins the transition into the wet season; rain showers become more frequent towards the end of the month, but mornings are often still clear.
One note of caution: Arenal Volcano’s summit is almost permanently shrouded in cloud, regardless of season. Clear views of the cone are a treat at any time of year, but you are marginally more likely to glimpse it during the dry season, particularly at dawn.
What to pack: Lightweight, breathable clothing (cotton or moisture-wicking fabrics), a wide-brimmed sun hat, high-SPF sunscreen, sunglasses, a light rain jacket for afternoon showers in April, sturdy hiking boots or trail shoes, a refillable water bottle, insect repellent, and a swimsuit for hot springs and the waterfall.
🌧️ Green (Rainy) Season: May to November
Costa Rica’s rainy season, often marketed as the “green season,” runs from May through November, with September and October bringing the heaviest rainfall. The landscape transforms dramatically — the jungle deepens to an almost electric green, waterfalls surge with power, and rivers run high. La Fortuna Waterfall is at its most dramatic during this period. Fewer tourists visit, which means lower hotel rates, quieter trails, and a more authentic experience in the town itself.
Rainfall typically arrives in the afternoon, leaving mornings bright and warm. This pattern allows for hiking, birdwatching, and wildlife spotting in the early hours before retreating indoors during the downpours. The wet season is excellent for wildlife observation; frogs, toucans, and howler monkeys are highly active, and the lush vegetation makes the region’s biodiversity feel especially vivid.
The heaviest weeks — mid-September to mid-October — can see persistent rain that lasts all day, and dirt roads to more remote areas may become impassable. Some outdoor operators reduce their schedules or suspend certain activities during peak rainy months. July and August benefit from a brief dry spell known as the “veranillo” or little summer, making them surprisingly pleasant within the green season.
What to pack: Quick-dry clothing, a waterproof rain poncho or jacket, waterproof hiking boots, dry bags or waterproof pouches for electronics, a lightweight packable umbrella, insect repellent (mosquito activity increases in the wet season), anti-humidity bags for cameras, and a swimsuit for hot springs, which are especially enjoyable in the rain.
🌤️ Shoulder Season: November and Late April
The brief shoulder periods between the two main seasons — late April into early May, and October into November — offer a compelling balance. Prices begin to drop from dry-season highs, visitor numbers thin out, and the landscape retains much of its greenery without the relentless rain of peak wet months. November in particular is often underrated; rainfall decreases noticeably, the forest remains lush, and accommodation deals are still available before the December surge.
These transition periods suit travellers who want a quieter experience without fully committing to the unpredictability of the deep rainy season. Some flexibility in your itinerary is advisable, as weather can shift quickly.
What to pack: A mix of lightweight layers, a versatile waterproof jacket, comfortable walking shoes or light trail shoes, sunscreen, insect repellent, and a swimsuit. Pack for both sunshine and sudden showers, as conditions can change within the same afternoon.
📊 Season at a Glance
🌺 Overall Best Time to Visit
For most travellers, February and March represent the ideal time to visit La Fortuna. The dry season is in full swing, activity operators are running full schedules, and the humidity — while always present in a tropical rainforest — is at its most manageable. The post-Christmas rush has subsided, prices are somewhat more reasonable than December and January, and the trails, waterfall, and national park are in excellent condition. That said, La Fortuna genuinely rewards visitors at any time of year. If budget and smaller crowds matter more to you than guaranteed sunshine, the green season — particularly June, July, and the veranillo window — offers exceptional value and a richly immersive jungle experience. The key is to arrive with realistic expectations about the weather and an itinerary flexible enough to adapt to it.
Other Things to do Whilst in La Fortuna
La Fortuna is an excellent home base to explore the surrounding natural attractions and is known as the adventure capital of Costa Rica.
Here are some ideas for things to do during your stay in La Fortuna.
1. Hot Springs
La Fortuna, a small town at the base of Arenal Volcano in northern Costa Rica, sits above a network of geothermal activity that heats water as it filters through the earth before rising to the surface. The result is a collection of hot springs spread along the nearby river valleys, ranging from simple natural pools in the jungle to large commercial resorts with multiple pools, restaurants, and changing facilities. Water temperatures vary between pools — some are comfortably warm at around 35°C, others push closer to 40°C and can feel intense after a few minutes. The commercial parks, such as those along the road between La Fortuna and the volcano, charge an entry fee that typically covers access to the pools and sometimes a meal. They tend to be busiest in the evenings and at weekends, when both tourists and local families come to soak. Away from the paid facilities, there are a handful of free or low-cost natural pools accessible on foot, though these are less developed and offer fewer amenities. The whole area is lush and humid, and it is not unusual to hear frogs or see the volcano — when cloud cover allows — rising above the trees while you sit in the water.
2. Mistico Hanging Bridges
3. Bogarin Trail
Bogarin Trail is a small, privately owned nature reserve sitting less than a kilometre from the centre of La Fortuna, which means most visitors can walk there without any transport. The land was once a cattle farm with no trees to speak of, but in 2000 a local man named Giovanni began replanting native species, and over the following decades it gradually recovered into a patch of regenerated rainforest. Today the trail covers roughly 2.5 kilometres of flat, well-maintained path that is accessible to wheelchairs and suitable for most ages and fitness levels. Wildlife is the main draw — sloths are spotted here fairly regularly, and visitors also tend to see toucans, hummingbirds, frogs, and lizards going about their business in the trees and undergrowth. You can walk the trail on your own or join a guided tour, which lasts around two hours; guides carry telescopes to help pick out animals that are easy to miss in the canopy. Tickets can be bought on arrival in cash, though credit cards are also accepted through the official website. The setting is managed and relatively compact, so it feels different from walking through a large national park — but for people who want a genuine encounter with Costa Rican wildlife without travelling far or tackling difficult terrain, it is a practical and well-regarded option.
4. Fortuna Waterfall
The La Fortuna Waterfall sits about five kilometres south of the town of La Fortuna, in the north-west of Costa Rica. It drops roughly 70 metres into a wide, circular pool at the base, surrounded by dense rainforest. To reach it, visitors follow a paved path that descends several hundred steps — steep in places — and the climb back up can feel quite demanding, particularly in the heat and humidity. Swimming in the pool is permitted and popular, though the current from the falling water is strong, so most people stay towards the edges. The water is cold and clear. The area is managed as a private nature reserve, and there is an entrance fee to access the trail. The setting is undeniably striking, with the green cliff face and the mist from the falls making it one of the better-known natural sights in the region.
5. Lake Arenal
Lake Arenal is a large reservoir in the north-west of Costa Rica, not far from the town of La Fortuna. It was created in 1979 when a dam was built across the Arenal River, and it is now the biggest lake in the country. The water is used to generate much of Costa Rica’s electricity. The lake sits beneath the Arenal Volcano, which is one of the most active volcanoes in Central America, and on a clear day the view across the water towards the cone is quite striking. The surrounding area is green and hilly, with a fair amount of rain for much of the year. Visitors come to sail, windsurf, kayak, or simply to look at the scenery. The town of La Fortuna, a short drive away, is the main base for people exploring the area and has a range of places to stay and eat.
6. Rio Celeste
Rio Celeste is a river in the Tenorio Volcano National Park, not far from the town of La Fortuna in Costa Rica. It is well known for its striking turquoise colour, which comes from a natural chemical reaction between volcanic minerals and the water. Visitors can reach the river by following a trail through dense rainforest, which takes around an hour on foot and involves some uneven ground. Along the route there are a few points of interest, including a waterfall and a spot where two streams meet and the blue colour becomes visible. The area is looked after as part of the national park, so there is an entrance fee and visitor numbers are managed to protect the environment. It can get busy during the dry season, particularly between December and April, so arriving early in the day tends to make for a more comfortable visit. The surrounding forest is home to a range of wildlife, and it is not unusual to spot birds, monkeys, or other animals along the way.
7. Río Frío
Rio Frio is a river that runs through the La Fortuna area of Costa Rica, not far from the base of Arenal Volcano. The water is notably cold compared to the warm, humid air around it, which is where the name comes from — “frio” simply means cold in Spanish. The river flows through stretches of jungle and farmland, and its banks support a good variety of wildlife, including birds, reptiles, and small mammals. Visitors sometimes come to swim, wade, or simply sit beside the water, and it offers a quieter alternative to some of the busier natural attractions in the region. The surrounding landscape is lush and green for most of the year, fed by the heavy rainfall that the area receives. It is the kind of place that rewards those who take their time rather than those rushing between sights, and it gives a reasonable sense of what the Costa Rican countryside actually looks like beyond the tourist trail.
Where to Stay in La Fortuna
1. Hotel Arenal Xilopalo
Perched on the edge of La Fortuna in Costa Rica’s Arenal Volcano region, Hotel Arenal Xilopalo is a charming, authentic lodge that delivers genuine pura vida vibes without the hefty price tag. The rooms are set within a lush garden filled with vibrant plants and flowers, making it a small paradise for bird watchers — toucans and parakeets make regular appearances, drawn in by fresh fruit left out by the attentive staff. Guests can take a dip in the year-round outdoor pool, dine at the on-site restaurant serving international and Latin American cuisine, and wake up to volcano views that are nothing short of phenomenal. Ideally positioned close to La Fortuna’s restaurants, bars, and coffee shops, it’s also a superb base for exploring the surrounding natural wonders — all while keeping your wallet happy.
2. Tabacón Thermal Resort & Spa
Rising dramatically from the rainforest floor at the base of Arenal Volcano, Tabacón Thermal Resort & Spa in La Fortuna is one of Costa Rica’s most extraordinary destinations. Naturally heated by geothermal activity deep beneath the earth, its rivers and pools reach temperatures of up to 40°C, winding through lush tropical gardens thick with heliconias and tree ferns. Guests drift between cascading thermal waterfalls, open-air hot springs, and the award-winning Gran Spa, where treatments draw on indigenous botanical traditions. With Arenal looming dramatically overhead — and occasionally rumbling — the setting borders on cinematic. Whether you’re sipping a cocktail in a steaming poolside bar at dusk or simply letting the warm current carry you downstream, Tabacón delivers an immersion in nature that’s genuinely hard to forget.
3. Arenal Backpackers Resort
Sitting at the foot of the iconic Arenal Volcano in the lively town of La Fortuna, Arenal Backpackers Resort is a favourite stop for travellers exploring Costa Rica’s adventure heartland. The resort blends the social buzz of a classic hostel with genuine resort-style perks — including a stunning volcano-view pool that has become something of a legend on the backpacker circuit. Guests choose from dorm beds or private rooms, making it a solid pick whether you’re watching your budget or just want a bed that’s easy on the wallet. With zip-lining, hot springs, white-water rafting, and jungle hikes all on the doorstep, the resort serves as the perfect base for throwing yourself headlong into everything the Arenal region has to offer.
More to Explore
