Turkey: Istanbul – Topkapi Palace

August 23, 2025
Turkey
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One of the places still on my bucket list for Istanbul was the Topkapi Palace Museum, which was very close to the Hagia Sofia in Sultanahmet. We’d planned to get there earlier in the day, but as we were going to a show in the area in the evening, I decided we should go there late morning instead.

We took the tram back to Sultanahmet. The weather looked like it was going to be good for a while, so we bought our tickets, which was a combined ticket for the main palace and the hareem.

Topkapi Palace is a palace complex that served as the administrative centre and residence of the imperial Ottoman court from about 1478 to 1856. About 30 sultans ruled from the Topkapı Palace for nearly four centuries during the Ottoman Empire’s 600-year reign, beginning with Mehmed II. He ordered the construction of the palace in the late 1450s, several years after conquering Constantinople (Istanbul), the capital of the Byzantine Empire, in 1453. Medmed took up residence in 1478, and after his death three years later, successive sultans renovated and expanded the palace frequently, resulting in the palace’s medley of changing Islamic, Ottoman, and European architectural styles and decoration. The immense Topkapı Palace housed 1,000–4,000 inhabitants, including up to 300 in the harem.

Mehmed’s original layout, which consisted of four consecutive courtyards surrounded by high walls, remains. Each courtyard served different purposes and was separated by a gate that incrementally restricted entry, culminating in the most private third and fourth courtyards.

The First Courtyard
We entered the Palace through the large gate into the first courtyard. This is the largest and only public courtyard. During the reign of the Ottoman Empire, any unarmed person could enter through the Imperial Gate. The courtyard’s open space made it ideal for ceremonies and processions. In this courtyard is a brick façade church called Hagia Eirene, which served as a church during the Byzantine era and was converted to an armoury during the Ottoman Empire.

Second Courtyard
We didn’t spend much time in the first courtyard and moved quickly through the next gate into the second courtyard, which is also known as Divan Square. It was the administrative centre of the palace. Only official visitors and members of the court could enter the space. Council members met several times a week to discuss state affairs in the Domed Chamber (sometimes called Council Hall). The grand vizier (chief minister) led state meetings, and the sultan sometimes listened in through a grilled window from a small room within the adjacent Tower of Justice, the palace’s tallest structure.

This courtyard was also home to the palace’s kitchens and confectionaries, which is where we headed. The kitchens were hidden within a series of buildings behind the arched cloisters of the main courtyard. The first exhibit we went to look at was on the Turkish love of coffee. On display was a collection of stunning coffee pots and cup sets covering centuries of the development of the Turkish coffee culture. The information panels explained how coffee drinking developed in Turley, starting in the Royal Courts and then into the general public. Just across the way was a small exhibit of a tiny part of the Royal porcelain collection and a display of the confectioner kitchens, complete with wax models.

Third Courtyard
We left the second courtyard through the Gate of Felicity into the third courtyard, or the innermost courtyard, which housed the private residence of the sultan and the inner palace school. Only the sultan, members of his family, his servants, and the occasional approved visitor could enter. Visitors to the sultan could only go so far as the Audience Chamber and were expected to follow strict customs. They could not make eye contact or speak directly to the sultan but instead would lower their heads, cast their eyes downward, and speak to the sultan’s translator.

There was a sign for the library, which we could not resist. We love a good library. The Library of Sultan Ahmed III is lavishly decorated like many of the palace’s buildings with painted tiles, stained-glass windows, and shutters with mother-of-pearl and ivory inlay. It is a beautiful, light space. Although, there were signs saying ‘no photography’ the guard on duty was not enforcing the rule, so we gratefully snapped away.

The book collection was consolidated with other palace books in the 20th century and moved to the Mosque of the Aghas, which is the largest mosque in the palace and is located adjacent. The Topkapı Palace’s collection includes rare manuscripts, illustrated volumes, and early copies of the Qur’an.

Leaving the library, we noticed a very long line of people waiting to go inside one of the buildings. This turned out to be the entrance to the Pavilion of the Conqueror, which houses one of the palace’s most famous collections, the imperial jewels. The collection is extensive and lavish. On display is the so-called Spoonmaker’s Diamond, one of the largest cut diamonds in the world. Another intriguing item was the emerald Topkapı Dagger, which was featured in the 1964 thriller film Topkapi.

Next to the Imperial Jewel collection was another building, the Dormitory of the Campaigners which is filled with the Imperial clothing collection. The collection traces the change in style of the Imperial dress from caftan and turban to military garb and fez. It was a large and colourful collection but didn’t really float our boat, so we didn’t spend much time looking around. We were getting a bit tired and hungry, so we sat down and ate our packed lunch before moving on.

Fourth Courtyard
Our tour moved on to the fourth courtyard, which consists primarily of terraced gardens and pavilions. It is home to the lushly decorated Circumcision Chamber (which was closed), the Baghdad Pavilion, and the Yerevan Pavilion. One of the most distinct structures of the fourth courtyard is the gilt bronze Iftar Pergola, where sultans would break their fast if Ramadan fell in the summer. These pavilions were some of the most interesting structures in the whole palace and were used mainly for chilling in and enjoying the surrounding gardens. They are ornately decorated, beautiful spaces.

Third Courtyard – Revisited
We moved back into the third courtyard to visit the Chamber of Holy Relics. This is a sacred space and when we went into the first chamber it was filled with incense and the sound of a mufti reciting the Qur’an. In the second chamber were some interesting relics including Abraham’s Pot, Joseph’s Turban, the Staff of Moses, David’s Sword, scrolls belonging to John the Baptist, and Muhammad’s footprint are on display. It would be too easy to question the provenance of these items, but it was interesting to see them displayed in this way. The chambers also include relics of the Prophet Muhammed: a piece from a tooth, hair from his beard, the Seal of Muhammad, an autographed Letter, and his swords and bow.

Closing time was approaching and we wanted to make sure we left enough time to visit the Harem. Before this though we went to see the clocks collection, which was small but quite amazing.

The Harem
We were not sure what to expect from the Harem, but it turned out to be our favourite part of the palace.

The Topkapi Palace Harem was built towards the end of the 16th century and consisted of hundreds of magnificently tiled rooms connected with courtyards and fountain gardens. It was home to over a thousand harem women, children, and black eunuchs. It was the living quarters of the sultan’s family and was divided strictly by sex. In the 16th century, it became the sultan’s residence as well, when Murad III had apartments built there. Apart from the Sultan, the Valide Sultan, the Sultan’s favourite consorts and concubines, the princes, and the eunuch guards, no one else was allowed to trespass. Like the rest of the palace, the harem was continually renovated and grew according to need. The result is a rather maze-like layout and many architectural styles.

We started out in the sleeping quarters which was a large space where many of the concubines would have slept. From here we moved into the quarters where the Sultan, his family and his favourite concubines would have lived. The rooms were furnished with rich upholstered Ottoman sofas and traditional Ottoman fireplaces and connected by sumptuous courtyards covered in delicate porcelain tiles.

It was time for us to leave as the gates were about to close.

Planning your visit to the Topkapi Palace

To get to Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, here are your main options depending on your starting point:

🚶 Walking

If you’re staying in Sultanahmet (the historic district), Topkapi Palace is within walking distance from major landmarks like the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. It’s about a 5-10 minute walk.

🚇 By Tram

Take the T1 Tram Line (Bağcılar – Kabataş line).
Get off at the Sultanahmet stop (closest stop to Topkapi Palace).
Walk about 5 minutes from the tram stop to the entrance of Topkapi Palace.

🚌 By Bus

There are no direct buses to Topkapi Palace due to its location within the historic peninsula, but you can take a bus to Eminönü or Sirkeci and walk from there (~10-15 minutes).

🚖 By Taxi/Uber

Taking a taxi or Uber is convenient but traffic around Sultanahmet can be heavy, especially during peak hours.
If you’re coming from areas like Taksim or Beşiktaş, expect a ride of around 15–25 minutes depending on traffic.

🚢 By Ferry

Take a ferry to Eminönü or Karaköy.
From Eminönü, either walk (~15 minutes) or take the T1 tram to Sultanahmet.

gettingaround

Getting around Istanbul

Getting around Istanbul is relatively easy and affordable, thanks to its well-developed public transportation network and variety of transport options. Here’s a guide for tourists:

🚇 Public Transportation

1. Metro

Covers major areas of Istanbul, including connections to the airport and business districts.
Operates from 6:00 AM to midnight.
Purchase an Istanbulkart (rechargeable smart card) for convenience and discounts.

2. Tram

The T1 line (Kabataş to Bağcılar) is the most useful for tourists, covering key historic sites like Sultanahmet, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, and Grand Bazaar.
Trams run frequently and are fast and reliable.

3. Bus

Buses cover areas not reached by metro or tram.
Can get crowded during peak hours.
Use the Istanbulkart for payment.

4. Ferries

Istanbul’s ferries provide scenic and practical transport between the European and Asian sides of the city.
Key routes: Eminönü to Kadıköy and Üsküdar.

🚖 Taxis and Ride-Sharing

1. Taxis

Yellow taxis are widely available, but ensure the driver uses the meter.
Use ride-hailing apps like BiTaksi or Uber to avoid overcharging.

2. Uber

Uber operates in Istanbul and offers both regular and premium options.

🚶 Walking

Many historic areas (like Sultanahmet and the Grand Bazaar) are pedestrian-friendly.
Be prepared for steep hills and uneven cobblestones.

🚈 Funicular and Cable Cars

The Tünel funicular connects Karaköy and Beyoğlu (operating since 1875).
The TF1 Cable Car takes you to the panoramic viewpoint of Pierre Loti Hill.

vegandining

Eating out for vegans in Istanbul

While Istanbul might not be the most vegan-friendly city in the world, there are still plenty of high-quality options to choose from.

Vegan Community Kitchen
Located in the heart of the colourful neighbourhood of Balat, this tiny little hole in the wall is run by a delightful woman who uses family recipes to make mouthwatering Turkish vegan dishes.
– Address: Ayvansaray, Lavanta Sk. No:14

Mama Bowl Kitchen
Mama Bowl Kitchen in Istanbul’s Kadıköy district offers a fusion of Turkish and European flavours in healthy, homemade bowls, emphasising fresh, high-quality ingredients and catering to vegan and vegetarian preferences
– Address: Caferağa, Keresteci Aziz Sk.

Vegan Bakkal Moda
Vegan Bakkal Moda is a specialty store located in the heart of Istanbul’s Kadıköy district, offering a wide range of vegan products, including plant-based cheeses, meats, and dairy alternatives. Beyond food items, the shop also provides vegan cosmetics, supplements, and eco-friendly household products, making it a one-stop destination for those seeking cruelty-free and sustainable options. Visitors have praised the store for its extensive selection and the convenience of finding diverse vegan products in one place.
– Address:Caferağa Mh, Bademaltı Sk. No:38/C

Wegain
Wegain is a cherished vegetarian and vegan Turkish restaurant nestled in Istanbul’s vibrant Cihangir neighbourhood. Owned and operated by a family trio—two sisters and a daughter/niece—the establishment offers a warm, homely atmosphere that reflects their dedication to plant-based cuisine. The menu boasts a variety of classic Turkish dishes, including stuffed peppers, vine leaves, fava, and lentil meatballs, all crafted with fresh, wholesome ingredients. Patrons frequently praise the restaurant’s offerings; one reviewer noted the “excellent food, very reasonable prices, and wonderful family running it,” highlighting their attentiveness to guests’ preferences. Beyond its delectable cuisine, Wegain is also renowned for its vegan desserts, such as vegan baklava, which have garnered acclaim from visitors. Situated on Boğazkesen Street, Wegain not only provides delightful meals but also offers a glimpse into Istanbul’s rich cultural tapestry, making it a must-visit for those seeking authentic Turkish vegan dining experiences.
– Address:Firuzağa, Boğazkesen Cd. 74/A

Vegan Dükkan Lokanta
Vegan Dükkan Lokanta is a cozy, all-vegan eatery in Beyoğlu, Istanbul, offering a variety of plant-based dishes like spaghetti with vegan meatballs, tofu katsu curry, and smoked eggplant. Established 18 years ago, it promotes a cruelty-free and healthy lifestyle. The restaurant provides dine-in, takeaway, and pickup options, and also runs a vegan shop selling products to support a vegan lifestyle. It’s open daily from 10 AM to 9 PM.
– Address: Sıraselviler Cad. Cihangir Mah. Soğancı Sok. No:8 34433, Beyoğlu

Vegan Istanbul
Vegan Istanbul is a family-owned vegan café located in the vibrant Beyoğlu district of Istanbul, specifically at Firuzağa, Türkgücü Cd. No:51. Renowned for its generous portions and affordable prices, the café offers a variety of freshly prepared vegan dishes that cater to both local and international palates. Patrons can enjoy a buffet-style selection, allowing them to choose from multiple options, typically priced around 50 TL. The establishment is also praised for its vegan baklava, a delightful twist on the traditional Turkish dessert. The warm and friendly atmosphere, coupled with the owners’ dedication to quality, makes Vegan Istanbul a must-visit spot for those seeking delicious plant-based cuisine in the city.
– Address:Firuzağa, Türkgücü Cd. No:51A, 34425 Beyoğlu/İstanbul, Türkiye

Vegan Masa
Vegan Masa is a renowned vegan restaurant in Istanbul, Turkey, offering authentic Turkish cuisine with a plant-based twist. Located in Beşiktaş, with another branch in Kadıköy, the restaurant serves a variety of traditional dishes such as lahmacun and pide made with vegan meat and cheese, as well as local desserts like kadayıf.
– Address:Türkali, Mısırlı Bahçe Sk. No: 8/A, 34357 Beşiktaş/İstanbul, Türkiye

besttime

The best time to visit Istanbul

Istanbul has a moderate climate with four distinct seasons:

🌸 Spring (March to May):

Temperature: 8°C to 20°C (46°F to 68°F)
Mild and pleasant, with blooming flowers and longer daylight hours.
Light layers and a jacket are recommended, as evenings can be cool.

☀️ Summer (June to August):

Temperature: 20°C to 30°C (68°F to 86°F)
Hot and humid, especially in July and August.
Lightweight, breathable clothing and sun protection are essential.

🍁 Autumn (September to November):

Temperature: 12°C to 25°C (54°F to 77°F)
Mild and comfortable with fewer crowds.
Light layers are ideal as temperatures can drop in the evening.

❄️ Winter (December to February):

Temperature: 3°C to 12°C (37°F to 54°F)
Cool and rainy, with occasional snow.
A warm coat, scarf, and umbrella are necessary.

stay

Where to stay in Istanbul

1. Mid Range: Menar Hotel & Suites

Menar Hotel & Suites is a boutique hotel located in Istanbul’s historic Sultanahmet district, within walking distance of landmarks such as the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, and Topkapi Palace. The hotel offers eight distinct room types, each decorated in warm Turkish-style decor and equipped with modern amenities like flat-screen TVs, air conditioning, and laptop-sized safes. Some rooms feature private hammams, terraces, gardens, or fully equipped kitchens. Guests can enjoy a rich breakfast at the Menar Lounge, which offers views of the Marmara Sea, and take advantage of services like free Wi-Fi, complimentary snacks, concierge assistance, car hire, ticket service, and airport pickup. The hotel has received positive reviews for its cleanliness, comfort, and exceptional service, with guests praising the friendly and helpful staff, as well as the hotel’s central location, which offers easy access to Istanbul’s attractions.

2. Luxury – Azzap Hotel Galata

Azzap Hotel Galata is a boutique hotel situated in the heart of Istanbul’s historic center, offering guests a unique blend of traditional charm and modern comfort. The hotel is housed in a lovingly restored 1900s building, featuring original architecture complemented by contemporary design elements.

The hotel’s prime location places guests within walking distance of iconic landmarks such as the Galata Tower and the Bosphorus, making it an ideal base for exploring the city’s rich cultural heritage.

Guests can enjoy a variety of dining options at the hotel’s rooftop restaurant and bar, which offers panoramic views of the Golden Horn and the Old City. The restaurant serves both traditional and international cuisine, providing a delightful culinary experience amidst stunning city vistas.

3. Budget – Crowned Plus Hotel

The Crowned Plus Hotel is a 2-star establishment situated in the heart of Istanbul, offering guests convenient access to the city’s rich historical and cultural sites. Located within a short walk from iconic landmarks such as the Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace, the hotel provides an ideal base for travelers eager to explore the city’s heritage. Guests can start their day with a complimentary buffet breakfast served daily from 7:00 AM to 10:00 AM. The hotel also offers amenities like complimentary Wi-Fi throughout the property and a 24-hour front desk to assist with any needs. For those interested in exploring beyond the immediate vicinity, the hotel provides tour and excursion programs both within and outside of Istanbul. Additionally, a two-way transfer service is available from both Istanbul and Sabiha Gokcen Airports, ensuring a seamless travel experience for guests. The Crowned Plus Hotel combines comfort, convenience, and accessibility, making it a suitable choice for visitors looking to immerse themselves in the vibrant culture and history of Istanbul.