Çanakkale is a small city in north-west Turkey where you can walk by the sea, visit the site of the ancient city of Troy nearby, and learn about the Gallipoli campaign from World War One, all in a quiet place that feels relaxed, easy to get around, and full of history without being crowded or overly touristy.
Turkey: Bergama – Pergamon
We came to Bergama for one reason – to visit the ancient site of Pergamon. Once one of the great cities of the ancient world, Pergamon stood high above the modern town on a windy mountain, filled with culture, power, and influence. It was known for its role in advancing medicine and knowledge, standing shoulder to shoulder with cities like Alexandria and Ephesus.
A Short History of Pergamon
Pergamon, located in modern-day Turkey near the town of Bergama, was once one of the most important cities in the ancient world. It began as a small settlement during the time of the Greek Empire and rose to great power during the Hellenistic period after the death of Alexander the Great. Around 282 BC, Pergamon became the capital of the Attalid dynasty, a powerful kingdom that ruled a large part of western Asia Minor. The kings of Pergamon were known for their love of art, learning, and culture. Under their rule, the city became a centre of science and education, attracting scholars, artists, and architects from across the ancient world.
One of the most famous landmarks in Pergamon was its library, which was said to be the second largest in the ancient world after the Library of Alexandria in Egypt. It held around 200,000 scrolls and helped make Pergamon a major place of learning. The city was also known for developing a new kind of writing material called parchment, made from animal skins, which became widely used when papyrus from Egypt became hard to get. Another well-known structure in Pergamon was the Great Altar of Zeus, an impressive monument covered in detailed sculptures that showed scenes from Greek mythology. This altar is now in a museum in Berlin, but it originally stood on a high terrace in the city, showing Pergamon’s wealth and artistic skill.
After the last king of Pergamon died in 133 BC, he left the city and his kingdom to the Roman Empire. Pergamon continued to be an important city under Roman rule, becoming part of the Roman province of Asia. The Romans added their own buildings and structures, including a large theatre, temples, and public baths. The city also became an early centre of Christianity and was one of the seven churches mentioned in the Book of Revelation in the Bible. Over time, though, Pergamon’s importance faded, especially after earthquakes and changes in trade routes. Today, the ruins of Pergamon are a popular tourist site, giving visitors a chance to walk through history and see the remains of a once-great city.
Reaching the Acropolis
The Acropolis is the most visited part of Pergamon, sitting about 300 metres above Bergama. You can reach it by car, cable car, or by walking. Since we were staying near the lower cable car station, we went to have a look. The price seemed a bit high, and as the weather was nice, we decided to walk instead.
Soon after starting the walk, we passed a group of schoolchildren coming down the hill. One teenager was trying to squeeze back through the turnstile in a way that made no sense – we still don’t know why. The walk was warm and a bit tiring, winding uphill for over two kilometres. When we finally reached the top, we took a break with some ice lollies before starting to explore.
The Acropolis and Its Ruins
Although many of the most important artefacts have been moved – especially to the Pergamon Museum in Berlin – there is still a lot to see. The famous Altar of Zeus, sometimes called the “Throne of Satan” because of a reference in the Book of Revelation, now sits in Germany. Other pieces like the entrance to the Temple of Athena and statues from the Temple of Trajan have also been taken abroad.
Even so, the remaining ruins help you picture what the city once looked like. The Temple of Athena and the great library are mostly foundations now, but they were once key parts of the city. The library was second only to Alexandria’s, with around 200,000 works. The Temple of Athena is the oldest known building in Pergamon, built in 525 BCE for the goddess Athena Polias.
At the highest point of the Acropolis stands the Temple of Trajan. German archaeologists have partly rebuilt it, and the columns still rise dramatically above the town and surrounding countryside.
The Steep Theatre
Another highlight is the Citadel Theatre, which could hold up to 10,000 people. It’s known for being one of the steepest ancient theatres in the world. Just standing at the top made us dizzy. We decided not to go down, as the steps were large, uneven, and not very inviting.
Discovering the Unexpected – Building Z
After some time exploring in the heat, we stopped for a lemonade at the café. We didn’t feel like taking the cable car or the road back, so I asked a staff member about a trail I’d noticed earlier. It turned out to be the old road from ancient times, and it led down through the same turnstile we’d seen before. Karen wasn’t sure, but agreed to try it.
The path was rougher and less maintained. After about ten minutes, we reached a construction site with dust and scattered tools. It looked a bit off-limits, but when I peeked inside, a worker invited us to see the mosaics.
We had unknowingly found Building Z, a covered excavation with some of the most beautiful Roman mosaics we’ve ever seen. While Karen made friends with a guard’s puppy, I walked through the rooms. These mosaics dated from the 2nd century BCE and were hidden for centuries after an earthquake. Excavations in the 1900s and preservation work in the late 20th century brought them to light.
One room featured 16 octagonal medallions – 12 with expressive human faces and 4 showing animals, including roosters, a tiger, and a leopard. The detail was incredible.
I managed to tear Karen away from the puppy so she could see them too, and she was just as impressed.
The Gymnasium and the Path Down
A friendly guard pointed out a trail marked with blue dots that would lead us down. On the way, we passed the gymnasium – once the best in the ancient world. It would have hosted sports and training. It was quiet, peaceful, and felt like a hidden part of the ruins. We had it all to ourselves.
From there, we reached the lower Agora and exited through the familiar turnstile. A short walk took us back to our hotel, where we were hot, tired, and very ready for a shower and a rest.
The Red Basilica – One Last Stop in Bergama
Before leaving Bergama for Selçuk, we visited the Red Basilica, a large red-brick ruin in the middle of the Old Town. We’d walked past it several times, and it was finally time to go in.
Built under Roman Emperor Hadrian, the temple was dedicated not to Roman gods, but to Egyptian ones like Isis and Serapis. Two round towers beside the temple were likely places of worship too. Later, the basilica was converted into a Christian church, then fell into ruin during the Ottoman period.
We paid the small fee and explored. One of the towers was open, and although there wasn’t much inside, the brickwork was worth seeing. Inside the basilica, we saw a reconstructed statue of Sekhmet, the lion-headed goddess, along with fragments of other Egyptian gods.
Wooden walkways let us move safely through the building, and we got a feel for how massive it must have once been – more like a cathedral than a temple.
Planning your visit to Pergamon
Pergamon (also known as Pergamum) is an ancient city located in Bergama, in western Turkey. It’s full of history, with ruins of temples, a steep theatre, and a famous library from ancient times. A perfect place for history lovers and curious travellers.
📍 Address
Pergamon Ancient City
Zafer Mahallesi, Bergama, İzmir Province, Turkey
🌐 Website
https://muze.gov.tr
(Search for “Pergamon” on the site for details)
📞 Telephone
+90 232 631 28 04
🕰️ Opening Hours
Summer (1 April – 1 October): 08:00 – 19:00
Winter (1 October – 1 April): 08:30 – 17:30
Open every day
🎟️ Entry Fees
Adults: 90 TL
Children under 8: Free
Museum Pass (valid for many Turkish museums): Accepted
📝 Tips for Visitors
Wear comfortable shoes – there’s a lot of walking and hills.
Bring water, sun cream, and a hat if visiting in summer.
In summary
History overdose incoming: Pergamon was once a big deal – ancient Greek city turned Roman hotspot. Expect ruins that scream, “We used to be important!”
Bring your legs and a sturdy will: It’s built on a hill, and not a cute little one either. You’ll be doing a fair bit of hiking – think ‘leg day’ meets ‘history lesson’.
Cable car cheat code: Too posh to walk? There’s a cable car. Glides up the hill like a royal gondola for the lazy (or wise).
Theatre with a view (and vertigo): The amphitheatre is ridiculously steep – so dramatic it might give you stage fright just standing there.
Library envy: Used to be the second biggest library in the ancient world. Take that, Alexandria! Although… it’s not quite a Waterstones now.
Getting to Bergama/Pergamon
Bergama, home to the ancient city of Pergamon, lies in the İzmir Province of western Türkiye. It’s rich in history, with stunning ruins perched on a hilltop and sprawling across the valley below.
🚗 By Car
Hiring a car offers the most flexible way to explore the area.
From İzmir: ~2 hours (110 km) via the O-33 and D550.
From Ayvalık: ~1 hour (65 km).
From Istanbul: ~6–7 hours drive (500 km).
🚌 By Bus
Buses run frequently to Bergama from major cities:
From İzmir Otogar (Main Bus Terminal): ~2.5 hours.
From Istanbul or Ankara: Overnight buses available.
The bus station (otogar) in Bergama is just a short taxi or dolmuş (minibus) ride from the ruins.
✈️ By Air
Nearest airport: İzmir Adnan Menderes Airport (ADB).
From the airport: Hire a car, take a transfer, or connect via bus from İzmir.
🏛️ Visiting the Pergamon Archaeological Site
The Pergamon ruins are divided into three main areas:
Acropolis 🏰 – The upper city on the hill (reachable by cable car or road).
Asclepion 🏺 – The ancient healing centre, 3 km from the Acropolis.
Red Basilica (Kızıl Avlu) 🟥 – A massive Roman temple in the town centre.
🚡 Cable Car to the Acropolis
The easiest way to reach the upper city:
Open year-round, weather permitting.
Offers scenic views of Bergama and the surrounding countryside.
The best time to visit Pergamon
🌸 Spring (March–May) – Best Time to Visit
Weather: Mild and pleasant (15–25°C)
Crowds: Moderate
Highlights: Blooming wildflowers, perfect light for photography
Why Go: The site is lush and vibrant. The weather is ideal for walking the steep ruins without overheating.
🌿 Recommended for photographers, culture lovers, and walkers
☀️ Summer (June–August)
Weather: Hot and dry (28–40°C)
Crowds: High
Highlights: Long days, many local festivals
Caution: Extremely hot midday sun and limited shade at the site
🧴 Bring water, sun cream, and a hat
🕶️ Best to visit early morning or late afternoon
🍂 Autumn (September–November) – Another Excellent Option
Weather: Cooling down (20–30°C early, 10–20°C later)
Crowds: Fewer tourists
Highlights: Golden light, harvest season in surrounding countryside
🍇 Pair your visit with local food and wine experiences
📷 Ideal for photography and relaxed exploring
❄️ Winter (December–February)
Weather: Cold and sometimes rainy (5–15°C)
Crowds: Very few tourists
Highlights: Quiet ruins, no queues
☔ Not all facilities open; dress warmly and check forecasts
🔍 Best for history buffs who want a solitary, reflective visit
✅ Summary
| Season | Weather | Crowds | Experience | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 🌸 Spring | Mild 🌤️ | Moderate | Lush, scenic, pleasant walks | ⭐ Best |
| ☀️ Summer | Hot 🔥 | Busy | Long days, harsh sun | ⚠️ Caution |
| 🍂 Autumn | Cool 🌥️ | Light | Peaceful, beautiful sunsets | ✅ Great |
| ❄️ Winter | Chilly 🌧️ | Sparse | Quiet, raw historical feel | 🎯 Niche |
Where to stay
1. Attalos Suites Hotel
The Attalos Suites Hotel in Pergamon, Turkey, is a cosy and comfortable place to stay for anyone visiting this historic city. Located not far from the famous ancient ruins of Pergamon, the hotel offers lovely views of the surrounding hills and old town. The building has a traditional Turkish design on the outside, while the inside is clean, modern, and welcoming. Each room is carefully decorated with soft colours and nice furniture, giving guests a warm and relaxing feeling. The staff are friendly, always ready to help, and speak good English. There is a small garden where you can sit and enjoy a cup of Turkish tea or coffee, and a restaurant that serves delicious local food made with fresh ingredients. Breakfast is included and usually has a mix of bread, cheese, olives, eggs, and fruit. The hotel is also close to shops, cafes, and other places of interest, making it easy to explore the area. Whether you’re in Pergamon to see the ancient sites or just to enjoy a quiet holiday, the Attalos Suites Hotel is a lovely and peaceful place to stay
2. The Hera Hotel
The Hera Hotel in Bergama, Turkey, is a small, friendly place to stay if you are visiting this historic town. It is located close to the centre, so you can easily walk to many important sites, including the ancient ruins of Pergamon, which are a major attraction. The hotel is clean, quiet, and comfortable, with a lovely garden where guests can sit and relax. The staff are known for being helpful and welcoming, always ready to offer advice about what to see and do in the area. Rooms are basic but nicely decorated, with air conditioning and free Wi-Fi. Breakfast is usually served on a terrace with a view, and it includes fresh local food like bread, cheese, fruit, and olives. Many visitors say the peaceful atmosphere makes it feel more like staying in a home than a hotel. If you are looking for a simple, affordable place with charm and warmth, the Hera Hotel is a very good choice.
3. Elaia Hotel
The Elaia Hotel in Bergama, Turkey, is a small and cosy place to stay, located in a quiet part of the town but still close to the main historical sites. It’s a short walk from the ancient ruins of Pergamon, making it a great choice for visitors who want to explore the rich history of the area. The hotel is run by friendly and helpful staff who make guests feel welcome and at home. The rooms are clean and comfortable, with simple but tasteful decor, and many have views of the surrounding hills and old town. Breakfast is served every morning in a lovely garden or dining area, with fresh, local food such as olives, cheese, bread, and fruit. The atmosphere is calm and peaceful, which makes it ideal for relaxing after a day of sightseeing. The hotel also has free Wi-Fi and parking, which is convenient for travellers. Overall, the Elaia Hotel is a charming and affordable place to stay, perfect for people who want a quiet and pleasant base while exploring Bergama and its ancient wonders.
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