Sweden: Kalmar Castle and Cathedral
It was time to leave the Island of Gotland and travel back to the mainland of Sweden. We were booked on the 8:00 am ferry and luckily it was only a 10-minute ride to the port. The ferry crossing was around three hours, which got us into the city of Kalmar late morning. This was too early to check in to our Airbnb, so we decided to go and visit the castle at Kalmar.
After parking, we walked through the city, which took us by the cathedral. Kalmar domkyrka, the Kalmar Cathedral was built from 1660 to 1703 according to plans of the famous castle architect Nicodemus Tessin the Elder, who was inspired by Italian baroque churches. The cathedral is located centrally on the main square Stortorget in the middle of Kalmar and is considered one of the most beautiful baroque churches in Sweden. It was lovely to walk inside the cathedral.
From the cathedral, it was only around a 15-minute walk to the castle which is on the outside of the main areas of the city.
Kalmar Castle or Kalmar Slott is one of the finest medieval castles in Sweden. Its origins date to 1180 when a fortified tower was established at the spot where today’s castle stands to protect the area from marauding pirates. By the 1200s Kalmar was established as a city and more towers and a ring wall were added. The large square Guard Tower contained the original main entrance. At the time the fortress was the most advanced of its kind in Sweden.
With the Swedish-Danish border not too far away increased its strategic importance.
Kalmar Union In 1397 in Sweden, Norway and Denmark formed the Kalmar Union which unified the countries, through a common monarch and common foreign policy. The union also worked as a counterweight to the German Hanseatic League. When Gustav I became king of Sweden in 1523, the union was formally dissolved.
Gustav I and his sons who followed as monarchs transformed the medieval fortress into a Renaissance palace which is largely what we see today.
During the Kalmar War, the castle was besieged by the Danes and subsequently surrendered to them on 3 August 1611. It remained in their control until 1613 when it was handed back to Sweden.
After the peace treaty of Roskilde in 1658 the Danish border was moved south to its current location. The castle lost its strategic location, no longer having a national border to guard. As such it was no longer needed for military defence. Royal visits became increasingly rare, and the grand halls were used for other purposes, such as for storing grain and distilling alcohol in the 18th and 19th centuries.
In the mid-19th century, great restoration works started at the castle. After more than a century of decline, its historical significance was realised. Over the years the parts of the castle that had been damaged or destroyed have been returned to their former glory.
As we approached the castle on foot through the park that now guards its entrance, we could see how beautiful this fortress now looked and imagine how it would have been an imposing defensive position. The castle is protected by shallow waters on two sides with the remaining two sides facing the land where the original city of Kalmar would have stood just outside its walls.
We walked across the drawbridge and entered the castle’s keep. It was a hive of activity with staff dressed in medieval costumes leading activities, primarily to entertain the children. This included dressing up and fighting duels with swords – which of course the children loved.
The castle has been well maintained and it was a treat to walk through the rooms where informative displays told the history of the castle and life from the medieval times to the Renaissance period. There were mannequins modelling the clothing of the period, and rooms laid out with furniture and decorations from the Renaissance. It was quite lovely.
We cut short our self-guided to join at guided talk. Our guide to us into the defensive redoubts of the castle and told us about the significance of the castle in its early history and how its fortifications had been laid out. From the redoubt, we headed into one of the wall’s towers where he continued to explain the events that led to the capture of the castle by the Danes. His storytelling was embellished by a show of lights and loud noises, which oddly coincided with the arrival of a storm outside with heavy wind and rain – very atmospheric. We were glad to be inside and lingered there as long as we could after his talk had finished.
Eventually, we had to brave the elements and quickly made our way back into the castle to continue exploring the rooms we had missed earlier. By the time we had done the storm had passed and the sun had come back out, so we headed outside to walk around the outside the walls and admire the architecture.
We had a lovely time visiting Kalmar and its castle, and it was now time to find our Airbnb and settle in there.
Planning your visit to Kalmar Castle
Public transport
The castle is found approximately 750 metres from the bus and train stops at the central station.
Parking
The closest available parking area has been highlighted on the map below. For further details regarding central parking, visit the Kalmar Municipality’s website under the section Parking for visitors and commuters.
The best time to visit Sweden
Sweden, positioned in Northern Europe, reaches from the Baltic Sea in the southeast up to the Arctic Circle in the north. Its geography ranges from coastal plains to highlands and mountainous areas, all contributing to its distinct weather patterns that significantly differ throughout the year. The Köppen climate classification indicates that the majority of Sweden experiences a temperate climate. This indicates varying weather conditions that cycle with the changing seasons.
The south coastal areas, classified as humid continental or oceanic using the -3°C (26.6°F) isotherm, benefit from milder winters and relatively cooler summers in contrast to other regions of the country. Conversely, central Sweden falls under a humid continental climate, leading to warm summers and cold winters. The further north one travels, a subarctic climate is encountered, where long, icy winters and brief, cool to mild summers are the norm. These varying climatic conditions bring a unique diversity to the nation’s weather, making Sweden a land of climatic contrasts.
The best time to visit Kalmar
Lighting conditions and temperatures converge on making the period between May and September the ideal lot for visitors. With an average daylight span extending from 16.5 hours in May to 17.7 hours in June and July, it presents maximum hours under the sun. Additionally, the warmth of the summer season arrives with temperatures veering from 14.4°C (57.9°F) in May to the annual high of 21°C (69.8°F) in July. One should note, the period also enjoys the least occurrence of snowfall, smoothening travel plans.
The worst time to visit Kalmar
The season to avoid would arguably be winter i.e., December to February, when mercury levels drop, the city receives an average high of 1.6°C (34.9°F), and the low plunges to the annual low of -1.3°C (29.7°F). Visitors should also take note of the reduced daylight hours, plummeting to 6.9 hours in December. Besides, the increased snowfall average of 70mm (2.76″) in December escalating to 84mm (3.31″) in February might present a travel challenge, despite its aesthetic appeal.
Where to stay in Kalmar
1. Slottshotellet
Situated among 18th and 19th century villas in a park setting, this charming hotel is 3 minutes’ walk from Kalmar Castle. Free WiFi is available.
All individually decorated guest rooms at Slottshotellet have a TV, crystal chandelier and wooden floors. Many are decorated with antique furniture. Some have fireplaces or views of the inner courtyard.
The Kalmar Art Museum is directly across the street from the hotel, while Kalmar Central Station is 500 metres away.
2. ProfilHotels Calmar Stadshotell
This hotel is housed in an impressive Art Nouveau building on Kalmar’s main square, Stortorget. Kalmar Central Station is a 3-minute walk away. All rooms have classic décor and free WiFi access.
ProfilHotels Calmar Stadshotell’s bright rooms feature flat-screen cable TV and a private bathroom with a hairdryer and free toiletries. Some offer comfortable armchairs.
Breakfast is served in the bright first floor winter garden.The cosy Pipes of Scotland pub offers hearty traditional food, as well as a range of beers and whiskeys. Guests can also enjoy a lunch buffet and an á la carte dinner at the on-site Statt Verandan.
3. Hotell Hilda
Dating to 1861, this site includes a former royal summer residence and overlooks the Baltic Sea. Fridhem is just 6.5 km south of Visby and guests can enjoy landscaped gardens as well as a private beach.
Each room at Fridhem Pensionat comes with its own individual décor. Rooms are located in different buildings and vary in style, some with a balcony and some with sea views. All rooms have free WiFi access and many rooms feature a private bathroom.
Breakfasts are served daily in the main building, with views out over the sea from the breakfast room.
