The Cathedral of Salamanca, a majestic blend of Romanesque and Gothic architecture, stands as a testament to the city's rich historical and artistic heritage.
Spain: Ávila
Ávila is best known for its magnificent medieval walls, which encircle the old town in nearly perfect condition. These 11th-century stone fortifications, complete with 88 watchtowers and 9 gates, stretch for over 2.5 kilometres and are among the best-preserved in all of Europe.
Beyond its walls, Ávila is a city of quiet charm and deep spirituality. It’s famously the birthplace of Saint Teresa of Ávila, one of the most influential mystics and reformers of the Catholic Church. Her legacy is felt throughout the city—in the Convent of Saint Teresa, the Cathedral of Ávila, and the peaceful chapels that dot the landscape. The city itself is a blend of Romanesque and Gothic architecture, with winding cobbled streets, quaint plazas, and traditional Castilian stone houses that exude rustic elegance. The slower pace invites reflection, and there’s a strong sense of serenity that lingers in the air.
Our hotel was in the old part of Ávila, which meant we had to navigate ourselves to a gate within the city’s walls and then find somewhere to park. Luckily, things were fairly quiet in terms of traffic and the weather was not the best, keeping away some potential visitors, so getting in the walled streets was not too bad. As with all medieval European towns, the streets in the centre were very narrow and there was also a one-way system to contend with, but eventually, we got close to the hotel and with a great deal of luck found ourselves a parking space we could stay in until later in the afternoon.
Cathedral of Ávila
We were too early to check into the hotel, so we dropped our bags off and decided to go and explore the historic centre of Ávila. Wandering through the cobbled streets lined with Romanesque churches and medieval homes was like stepping back in time. After about 20 minutes, we arrived outside the cathedral, which was undergoing extensive work both outside and inside. As the rain started to come down, after taking some quick photos of the outside, we headed in to have a look around.
The cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of the Saviour (Catedral del Salvador), is one of the most important examples of Gothic architecture in Spain, with Romanesque influences reflecting its long construction period. Located within the medieval walls, it is considered the first Gothic cathedral in the country, begun in the 12th century and completed over several centuries. The cathedral’s apse is ingeniously integrated into the city’s defensive walls, serving both spiritual and military purposes. Its austere stone façade and fortress-like appearance reflect the city’s historical role on the frontier during the Reconquista. Inside, the cathedral houses a remarkable collection of religious art, including works by renowned artists such as Vasco de la Zarza.
Plaza del Mercado Chico
We continued to wander the streets event, eventually arriving at the main plaza, which is known as the Plaza del Mercado Chico. Surrounded by elegant arcades and traditional Castilian buildings, the plaza serves as a lively gathering place for locals and visitors alike. The main building in the square is the Town Hall, but there are also several quaint cafés and shops, making it an ideal spot to relax and soak in the city’s rich heritage. The weather had become downright miserable so in the end we decided to find a café for a coffee and some cakes and see out the rain.
The City Walls
Finally, the rain ceased, and we set out again. This time we headed outside the walls. We could have walked along the top of the walls – which had a small cost, but in the end, we decided to walk around the base of the walls. In truth, this was the better option as you get to see the majesty of the wall structures which you would not get standing on top of them. You can walk all the way around, but we only did about one-third, before heading back.
The Walls of Ávila were constructed in the 11th century, primarily under the orders of Raymond of Burgundy, the walls were built to protect the city from potential Moorish invasions during the Christian Reconquista. Stretching over 2.5 kilometres, the walls encompass the old town in a near-rectangular layout and are punctuated by 88 semicircular towers and nine grand entrance gates. Built primarily from granite, their robust and imposing presence has earned them a place as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985.
Beyond their military function, the walls reflect the social and religious importance of Ávila during the Middle Ages. They encircle not just homes and markets, but also numerous churches, including the Cathedral of Ávila, which is integrated into the wall itself and doubles as a fortress. Visitors today can walk along large sections of the ramparts, offering panoramic views of the city and the surrounding Castilian plains.
Convent of Saint Teresa
Another interesting place just outside the city walls, close to the cathedral is the Convent of Saint Teresa.
The Convent of St. Mary, also known as the Convent of Saint Teresa, was built in the 17th century, it was constructed on the site believed to be the birthplace of Saint Teresa of Ávila, one of the most important mystics and reformers of the Catholic Church. The convent was built in the Baroque architectural style and houses a church, and a museum dedicated to her life and works.
We entered the Church of Saint Teresa, the centrepiece of the convent through the main doors. This grand space has soaring ceilings, together with intricate gold leaf altarpieces. The main altar, richly decorated in Baroque style, has above it a statue of Saint Teresa in prayer. Close by was the Chapel of the Birthplace, built over the room where Saint Teresa was born in 1515, which we respectively went inside. This small, intimate space is a deeply spiritual point of reflection, containing a beautifully adorned altar and a bronze sculpture of the saint kneeling in prayer.
From the chapel, we went to the Carmelite Museum, located in the cloisters of the convent. Here, there were displays and artefacts related to Saint Teresa’s life and the Carmelite reform. The exhibits include handwritten letters, first editions of her spiritual works, liturgical objects, and even a reconstruction of a Carmelite nun’s cell.
Finally, we walked through the cloistered courtyard, a tranquil garden space surrounded by arches and shaded walkways. The well-tended garden is symbolic of the inner spiritual life championed by Saint Teresa.
In Summary
🏰 Walled City: Ávila is famous for its impressive medieval walls—you can even walk along parts of them!
🕍 Cathedral of Ávila: A mix of Romanesque and Gothic styles, this is Spain’s first Gothic cathedral.
🎨 Historic charm: Cobblestone streets, old churches, and stone buildings make you feel like you’re in a storybook.
🌄 Beautiful views: The city is set on a hill, offering great views of the countryside, especially at sunset.
🌧️ Weather: It can get chilly or rainy, especially in fall/winter—bring layers and maybe an umbrella. It rained when we were there in June!
🧘♀️ Spiritual sites: Home of St. Teresa of Ávila, with museums and convents dedicated to her life.
🚆 Easy to reach: Just 1.5 hours from Madrid by car or train, perfect for a day trip or weekend getaway.
🕰️ Laid-back vibe: Great for slowing down, walking around, and soaking in the atmosphere.
Planning your trip to Ávila
Getting around Ávila, Spain is quite easy thanks to its compact size, walkable historic center, and local transport options. Here’s a breakdown of how to navigate the city:
🚶♀️ On Foot (Best Option in the Historic Center)
Ávila’s old town is small and pedestrian-friendly, making walking the best way to explore the main sights like:
The Medieval Walls (Muralla de Ávila)
Ávila Cathedral
Plaza del Mercado Chico
Convent of St. Teresa
Many cobbled streets are restricted to cars or very narrow, adding to the charm.
The terrain is hilly in places, so bring comfortable shoes!
🚌 Local Buses (Urbanos de Ávila)
Operated by Urbanos Ávila, the city has a small but efficient urban bus network.
Buses connect the train/bus stations with neighborhoods and outlying areas.
Great for reaching places outside the city center, like:
Four Posts Viewpoint (Los Cuatro Postes)
Shopping areas
Tickets can be bought on board (~€1.20 per ride).
🚖 Taxis
Taxis are available at:
Train station
Main squares
You can also book by phone or app (not as common as in big cities).
Good for late-night travel or trips to less accessible spots like rural hotels or viewpoints.
🚗 Driving in Ávila
Driving in the historic center is not recommended due to narrow streets, traffic restrictions, and limited parking.
There are parking lots just outside the walls (e.g., “El Grande,” “Leclerc,” or “Mercado Grande”) for easy access on foot.
Renting a car is more useful for day trips to nearby towns or the Sierra de Gredos.
🚴♀️ Biking (Optional)
Ávila has some bike lanes and scenic routes, but the hilly terrain and cobblestones may make biking more challenging.
Best for leisure rides around the city outskirts or along the Eresma River.
Getting to Ávila, Spain is relatively straightforward, especially from major cities like Madrid. Here’s a detailed guide on how to reach Ávila by train, bus, or car:
🚆 By Train (Most Convenient from Madrid)
Departure City: Madrid
Departure Station: Madrid-Chamartín (easily reachable by metro or taxi)
Arrival Station: Ávila Train Station
Duration: Around 1.5 to 2 hours
Operator: RENFE (Spain’s national rail company)
Train Types:
Media Distancia (MD): Most common and cost-effective
Regional Express: Slower, cheaper, with more stops
Tickets can be purchased online via renfe.com, at the station, or through apps. Trains are usually punctual and comfortable.
🚌 By Bus (Cheaper Alternative)
Departure City: Madrid
Bus Company: Avanza
Departure Terminal: Estación Sur de Autobuses (connected to Metro Méndez Álvaro)
Arrival Point: Ávila Bus Station (a short walk from the city center)
Duration: About 1 hour 20 minutes to 2 hours, depending on traffic
Frequency: Buses run frequently throughout the day
Bus tickets can be bought at avanzabus.com, at the station, or via mobile apps.
🚗 By Car (Most Flexible Option)
From Madrid: Take the A-6 highway, then switch to AP-51 or N-110.
Distance: ~110 km (68 miles)
Travel Time: Around 1 hour 20 minutes
Toll Roads: Yes, on AP-51 (or use scenic national roads for free)
Driving gives you flexibility to explore Ávila’s surroundings like the Sierra de Gredos mountains or nearby villages.
The best time to visit Ávila
The best time for tourists to visit Ávila, Spain, largely depends on the type of experience they’re seeking, but generally, spring (April to June) and autumn (September to early November) are considered ideal.
Spring (April–June):
Spring is one of the best times to visit Ávila. The weather is mild and pleasant, with average daytime temperatures ranging from 12°C to 22°C (54°F to 72°F). The city’s natural surroundings begin to bloom, and the historic sites—like the famous medieval walls, cathedrals, and plazas—are especially picturesque. Spring also offers fewer crowds compared to peak summer months, making sightseeing more relaxed. Key events like Holy Week (Semana Santa) in April bring a rich cultural experience with religious processions and traditional festivities.
Summer (July–August):
While summer is a popular time for tourists, it can get quite hot, with temperatures sometimes reaching 30°C (86°F) or more. That said, Ávila’s elevation (over 1,100 meters or 3,600 feet above sea level) makes the heat more bearable than in lower-lying regions of Spain. The city hosts several festivals, including the Medieval Fair in early August, which transforms Ávila into a lively spectacle of markets, performances, and period costumes. However, this is also the busiest season, so expect larger crowds and higher accommodation prices.
Autumn (September–November):
Autumn is another excellent time to visit. The weather is still relatively warm in September and gradually cools down through November, offering comfortable sightseeing conditions and beautiful fall colors in the surrounding countryside. Cultural events like Santa Teresa festivities in October celebrate the city’s famous mystic and saint, Teresa of Ávila, with religious ceremonies, concerts, and parades. Tourist numbers also drop after summer, making it easier to explore the city at a slower pace.
Winter (December–March):
Winter in Ávila can be quite cold, with temperatures frequently dropping below freezing, especially at night. Snowfall is not uncommon. While this season sees fewer tourists, it offers a quiet, almost magical atmosphere—especially if the medieval walls and rooftops are dusted with snow. Christmas brings festive decorations and local traditions, but some attractions may operate with limited hours.
Where to stay in Ávila
1. Luxury – La Casa del Presidente
La Casa del Presidente is a charming boutique hotel located in the historic city of Ávila, Spain. Housed in a former presidential residence, this elegant property offers a unique blend of political history and modern luxury. The building once served as the home of Adolfo Suárez, Spain’s first democratically elected prime minister after Franco’s dictatorship, and has been thoughtfully restored to preserve its heritage while providing upscale amenities. Guests can enjoy spacious rooms, lush gardens, and a serene pool area, all within the city’s iconic medieval walls. Its prime location makes it an ideal base for exploring Ávila’s rich architectural and cultural landmarks.
2. Mid Range – Hotel Las Leyendas
Hotel Las Leyendas is a charming boutique hotel located in the historic city of Ávila, Spain, just steps away from the iconic medieval city walls. Set in a restored 16th-century building, the hotel beautifully blends rustic architecture with modern comforts, offering cozy rooms with wooden beams, stone walls, and scenic views. Its intimate atmosphere and attention to detail make it a favourite among travelers seeking an authentic and relaxing experience. The on-site restaurant serves traditional Castilian cuisine, adding to the regional charm. Its central location also makes it an ideal base for exploring Ávila’s rich heritage and picturesque streets.
3. Budget – Hotel Puerta de la Santa
Hotel Puerta de la Santa is a charming and conveniently located hotel in the historic city of Ávila, Spain. Nestled just steps away from the iconic medieval city walls and near the Puerta de la Santa gate—named after Saint Teresa of Ávila—it offers visitors a cozy and welcoming atmosphere. The hotel blends modern comforts with traditional Castilian design, providing clean, comfortable rooms and personalized service. Its prime location makes it an ideal base for exploring Ávila’s UNESCO World Heritage sites, including the Cathedral of Ávila, Convent of Saint Teresa, and numerous Romanesque churches scattered throughout the city.
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