Elvas, Portugal, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is renowned for its impressive star-shaped fortifications, historic aqueduct, and rich military history near the Spanish border.
Portugal: National Palace of Mafra
A Day Out in Mafra: Bureaucracy, Baroque, and Bats
I woke early, though my body registered a firm objection. The plan, insofar as I ever make one, was to visit the National Palace of Mafra — a rather grand affair sitting some 40 kilometres northwest of Lisbon. I’d done a modest amount of homework the night before and determined that the most straightforward route was a bus from Campo Grande, a bustling transport interchange on the city’s northern fringe. Getting there? Easy. I was up, out, and aboard the metro with time to spare. Punctuality, for once, was not the issue.
The Ticket That Wasn’t
The problems began the moment I attempted to board the 8:30 am service. I presented my 24-hour public transport pass — Lisbon’s version of an all-you-can-ride buffet — and tapped it smartly on the reader. Nothing. Again. Still nothing. The driver, a man who appeared to have come straight from central casting for “grumpy bus operators”, grunted that this was not the correct ticket. When I inquired as to where one might acquire the correct ticket, he waved in the general direction of the metro station, which, as directions go, was more of a shrug than a strategy.
Resigned to defeat, I trudged back to the metro building and joined the queue at the information desk. The man behind the glass was friendly enough and informed me — with no apparent irony — that bus tickets could, in fact, be bought on the bus. Yes, the very same vehicle from which I had just been unceremoniously dismissed. This, I thought, was peak public transport: the Kafkaesque loop of contradictory information and subtle contempt.
Second Time Lucky
With no other option, I returned to the bus bay and waited another hour for the next service, the 9:30 am departure. This time, the driver was a much friendlier woman who confirmed that yes, tickets could be bought on board. €4.50 — remarkably reasonable, all things considered. The bus set off, and the ride was uneventful, if a little warm. The scenery changed from city sprawl to dry, sun-scorched countryside: olive groves, distant farmhouses, and the occasional cluster of low-rise buildings punctuated the horizon.
As we pulled into Mafra, there it was — the palace. Enormous. Unmissable. Part of the façade was under scaffolding, of course, because that seems to be the default state of all historic buildings. But even with a third of it wrapped in tarpaulin, its size and grandeur were clear. One simply cannot build something like that quietly.
The Palace That Brazilian Gold Built
The National Palace of Mafra, or Palácio Nacional de Mafra if you’re feeling local, was commissioned in 1717 by King João V. The official story is that he promised God a monastery if his wife bore him children. She did. God presumably took notes. But let’s not kid ourselves — the project quickly ballooned far beyond anything resembling monastic modesty. Portugal’s coffers were swollen with Brazilian gold, and João V wasn’t shy about spending it. Originally envisioned as a humble monastery, it evolved into a colossal royal residence complete with a basilica and a library that wouldn’t look out of place at Hogwarts.
Construction employed over 50,000 workers. The final complex includes a royal palace, a Franciscan monastery, a full-scale basilica, and one of the finest libraries in Europe. Over the years, it has served as everything from a royal summer retreat to military barracks. One suspects the monks were not consulted on the latter.
Baroque Bravado and Monastic Minimalism
The basilica is the centrepiece — Baroque through and through, with a façade flanked by two bell towers housing a total of 92 bells. For reasons best known to João V, it also features six pipe organs. Because why stop at one when you can have half a dozen?
The palace itself stretches out to an almost ludicrous 220 metres and contains 1,200 rooms, 4,700 doors and windows, and 156 staircases — a layout presumably inspired by someone with a grudge against cartographers. It’s lavish in all the expected ways: marble floors, ornate ceilings, and carved wood everywhere you look. Yet it somehow manages not to tip into absurdity. There’s a restraint to the place that’s hard to explain but easy to feel.
Monastic quarters are simpler — tiled walls, sparse dormitories, and a sense that not everyone in the building was sipping from golden goblets. The infirmary, where my self-guided tour began, was a highlight. Rows of beds, each facing a central chapel, allowed patients to attend mass without moving — religion and recovery conveniently combined.
Rooms With a View (And a Lot of Doors)
From there, I climbed the stairs to the royal quarters. The king and queen had separate wings — presumably to preserve marital bliss — connected by what must be one of the longest corridors in Europe. At 232 metres, the gallery is more runway than hallway. It links rooms that range from music salons to reading nooks and private studies. The décor, while tasteful, doesn’t scream opulence in the manner of Versailles or Madrid’s Royal Palace. Portuguese royalty, it seems, preferred a slightly more subdued expression of power.
The throne room and ceremonial halls are suitably grand, though, and the corridor itself is impressive purely for its length. You could lose a small army in there, or at the very least, a few confused tourists.
Bats in the Library
Finally, I reached the library, which is nothing short of magnificent. It holds around 36,000 volumes, many dating from the 16th to 18th centuries. You can’t wander among the shelves, unfortunately, but the view from the designated area is enough. Classical statues, wooden shelving, and a highly polished floor combine for that distinctive “enlightened grandeur” look.
The best detail? They use bats. Live ones. Released at night to eat insects that might otherwise damage the books. It’s hard to know whether this is charming, practical, or mildly terrifying. Possibly all three.
Back to Lisbon
After a couple of hours exploring, I had seen enough. The sun was high, the square was heating up, and I had little appetite for further exertion. I caught the next bus back to Lisbon — ticket purchased without incident, thank you — and retreated to my hotel for a well-earned sit-down and something cold.
All in all, Mafra delivered. Bureaucratic farce at the beginning notwithstanding, it’s an impressive place. The palace is equal parts spectacle and history lesson, and if you’re in the area, it’s well worth the detour — just remember to bring cash and a flexible attitude to ticketing.
Summary
- Took a leisurely train from Lisbon. Managed to arrive without being mugged or misdirected, so already a win.
- Palace exterior is ludicrously large — presumably designed to make lesser monarchs feel inadequate.
- Baroque architecture on full theatrical display. One half expects a cherub to leap off the façade and demand applause.
- Library is absolutely magnificent — thousands of ancient books, none of which I was allowed to touch. Typical.
- Monks once lived here in austere quarters while royalty cavorted in marble. A fine metaphor for life, really.
- Basilica boasts six organs. Still not entirely sure why. Possibly a case of ecclesiastical overcompensation.
- Royal apartments filled with opulence, creaking floorboards, and the lingering aroma of historic dust.
- Walked the hunting grounds. Didn’t see any deer, though I suspect they’ve long since unionised and left.
- The infirmary was eerily well-preserved — ideal if one enjoys imagining one’s ailments in 18th-century conditions.
Planning your visit
Planning Your Visit to Mafra National Palace
Planning a visit to Mafra National Palace, one of Portugal’s grandest and most architecturally impressive baroque landmarks, is a memorable experience for history buffs, culture enthusiasts, and curious travellers alike. Commissioned by King João V in the 18th century, the palace complex includes a royal palace, basilica, monastery, and one of Europe’s most beautiful libraries. With a bit of preparation, your journey to this magnificent site can be both smooth and enriching.
✈️ Getting There
Mafra is located approximately 40 km northwest of Lisbon and is easily accessible by car or public transport. The most convenient way to reach Mafra is by car, with the drive from Lisbon taking around 40–50 minutes. Alternatively, you can take a bus from Lisbon’s Campo Grande terminal directly to Mafra, with journeys running regularly and taking about an hour. Parking is available near the palace for those arriving by car.
🏨 Where to Stay
While many visitors make Mafra a day trip from Lisbon, staying overnight in the town or nearby Ericeira allows for a more relaxed experience. Ericeira, a picturesque seaside village just 10 km away, offers a range of charming guesthouses, boutique hotels, and seaside dining. In Mafra itself, accommodation options include small hotels and local inns, ideal for a quiet stay near the palace.
🕍 What to See
The crown jewel of Mafra is the National Palace, an immense baroque complex that houses over 1,200 rooms. Highlights include the opulent Throne Room, the monumental Basilica with six historic organs, the royal apartments, and the iconic library, which holds over 36,000 rare books. The adjoining convent and serene cloisters offer a glimpse into the monastic life of the past. The palace also overlooks the Tapada Nacional de Mafra, a royal hunting ground turned nature reserve, perfect for hiking or wildlife spotting.
🚶 Getting Around
Mafra is a walkable town, and the palace is centrally located, easily reached on foot from nearby accommodations or bus stops. For visitors coming by car, public parking is available just minutes from the entrance. Within the palace grounds, most areas are accessible on foot via signposted routes. Exploring the Tapada requires separate entry, and electric buggies or guided tours may be available depending on the season.
🎟️ Tickets and Entry
Tickets for Mafra National Palace can be purchased at the main entrance or online in advance. Standard admission includes access to the palace, basilica, and library. Guided tours are available and are highly recommended to gain deeper insights into the history and symbolism of the site. Entry to the Tapada Nacional de Mafra is ticketed separately and offers additional nature-based activities.
🧢 What to Bring
Comfortable footwear – Expect to walk long corridors and cobbled paths.
Weather-appropriate clothing – The interiors are cool, while the Tapada requires sun protection.
Water and snacks – Refreshments are limited near the palace grounds.
Camera or phone – Photography is allowed in most areas, though flash may be restricted.
Cash or card – For entry fees, souvenirs, or local cafés.
🛑 Tips and Etiquette
Respect the heritage – Do not touch artworks, furnishings, or roped-off displays.
Dress respectfully – While not religiously enforced, modest attire is appreciated.
Join a guided tour – Official guides or audio guides greatly enhance your visit.
Arrive early – Avoid queues and enjoy a quieter experience, especially on weekends.
Be mindful of local customs – A friendly greeting and polite manners go a long way.
The best time to visit Lisbon
🌸 Spring (March–May) – Best Time to Visit
Weather: Mild and pleasant (15–25°C)
Crowds: Moderate
Highlights: Blooming jacarandas, golden city light ideal for photography
Why Go: Lisbon bursts into colour in spring, with parks and avenues blooming, especially the iconic jacaranda trees. The weather is ideal for wandering through historic neighbourhoods like Alfama and Belém without the crowds or heat.
🌿 Ideal for photographers, culture enthusiasts, and leisurely walkers
☀️ Summer (June–August)
Weather: Warm to hot (25–35°C)
Crowds: High – peak tourist season
Highlights: Lively festivals like Santo António, long sunny days, vibrant nightlife
Caution: Expect crowded trams and busy viewpoints (miradouros), and higher accommodation prices.
🧴 Stay hydrated, wear sun cream, and plan breaks in shaded cafés or by the riverside
🕶️ Explore early in the day or after sunset for a more comfortable experience
🍂 Autumn (September–November) – Another Excellent Option
Weather: Cooling gradually (22–28°C in September; 12–20°C by November)
Crowds: Fewer tourists
Highlights: Warm autumn light, grape harvests in nearby wine regions, calmer streets
🍇 Pair your visit with wine tastings, food markets, and relaxed exploration
📷 A great time for golden-hour photography and less crowded sightseeing
❄️ Winter (December–February)
Weather: Cool and occasionally rainy (8–16°C)
Crowds: Very light
Highlights: Peaceful museums and monuments, festive lights in December
☔ Some outdoor attractions may be less accessible; bring layers and an umbrella
🔍 Perfect for history lovers and off-season travellers looking for quiet charm
✅ Summary
| Season | Weather | Crowds | Experience | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 🌸 Spring | Mild 🌤️ | Moderate | Blooming, bright, perfect for walks | ⭐ Best |
| ☀️ Summer | Hot ☀️ | Busy | Lively, festive, but intense heat | ⚠️ Caution |
| 🍂 Autumn | Cool 🌥️ | Light | Calm, colourful, great for food lovers | ✅ Great |
| ❄️ Winter | Chilly 🌧️ | Sparse | Peaceful, atmospheric | 🎯 Niche |
Getting around Lisbon
🚋 Getting Around Lisbon
Lisbon offers a variety of transport options that make exploring the city both easy and enjoyable. From charming trams to modern metros, here’s how to navigate Portugal’s capital like a local.
🧭 Public Transport
Lisbon’s public transport system is efficient, affordable, and well-connected. The main modes include:
Metro: The quickest way to travel across the city, especially between the airport, downtown, and major districts. Clean, safe, and easy to use.
Trams: The iconic yellow Tram 28 is a must for first-time visitors, weaving through the city’s most scenic historic areas. Be aware it’s popular and often crowded.
Buses and trolleybuses: Cover areas not served by the metro. Reliable and frequent.
Funiculars: Such as Elevador da Glória or Bica, help you climb Lisbon’s many hills with ease and charm.
Ferries: Cross the River Tagus to reach places like Cacilhas—great for a meal with a view back toward the city.
💳 Tip: Purchase a Viva Viagem card to access all public transport options at discounted rates. Available at metro stations and rechargeable.
🚶 On Foot
Lisbon is a wonderfully walkable city, especially in the older quarters like Alfama, Mouraria, and Chiado. That said, prepare for steep hills, cobbled pavements, and the occasional set of stairs.
👟 Comfortable shoes are essential, and water breaks are welcome—there’s always a viewpoint (miradouro) nearby to catch your breath and take in the views.
🚖 Taxis and Ride-Sharing
Taxis are widely available and metered, though not always the cheapest option. Apps like Bolt and Uber are commonly used and often more affordable.
💡 Note: Some drivers may prefer cash, and tipping is appreciated but not required (rounding up is sufficient).
🚲 Cycling and Scooters
Lisbon has become increasingly bike-friendly, though its hilly terrain may be challenging. Electric bikes and e-scooters (available via apps like Gira or Lime) are popular for short distances along flatter routes such as the riverfront promenade.
🛑 Use caution on cobbled or narrow streets and be respectful of pedestrians.
🚗 Driving and Parking
Hiring a car isn’t necessary within Lisbon and can actually be a hassle due to narrow streets and limited parking. However, it may be useful for day trips to nearby areas like Sintra, Cascais, or the Arrábida coast.
🅿️ If you do drive, look for public car parks (underground or multistorey) and avoid peak traffic times.
Eating out for vegans in Lisbon
🌿 Ao 26 – Vegan Food Project – Baixa
A beloved gem in the heart of Lisbon, Ao 26 offers inventive, beautifully presented vegan cuisine in a stylish setting. From tofu ‘bacalhau’ to seitan steaks and indulgent desserts, this spot is a must-visit for plant-based diners.
📍 Address: Rua Vítor Cordon 26, 1200-484 Lisboa
🌐 Website: ao26.com
🍜 The Green Affair – Multiple Locations
With several branches across the city, The Green Affair delivers a sleek, modern dining experience with a 100% plant-based menu. Expect creative international dishes such as truffle mushroom risotto, burgers, and sushi.
📍 Main Branch: Rua Serpa Pinto 15A, 1200-443 Lisboa
🌐 Instagram: @thegreenaffair.pt
🛒 Green Beans – Online & Store
A vegan grocery shop and café offering everything from non-dairy cheeses and mock meats to organic snacks and eco-friendly products. Their online store makes restocking easy for locals and visitors alike.
🌐 Website: greenbeans.pt
🍽️ Jardim das Cerejas – Chiado
An all-you-can-eat vegetarian buffet with plenty of vegan choices, Jardim das Cerejas is ideal for a hearty, wholesome meal. Their range of stews, salads, and baked goods offers great value in central Lisbon.
📍 Address: Calçada do Sacramento 36, 1200-394 Lisboa
🌐 Website: jardimdascerejas.com
🧁 Fauna & Flora – Santos
While not entirely vegan, Fauna & Flora includes delicious plant-based options like avocado toast, vegan pancakes, and almond milk lattes. A trendy brunch spot with a relaxed, leafy vibe.
📍 Address: Rua da Esperança 33, 1200-655 Lisboa
🌐 Instagram: @faunaeflora.pt
🥙 VeganNata – Pastéis de Nata, Reimagined
This innovative bakery reimagines Portugal’s iconic custard tarts with a fully vegan twist. Flaky, creamy, and utterly satisfying—perfect for a quick sweet treat.
📍 Address: Rua 1º de Dezembro 65, 1200-357 Lisboa
🌐 Website: vegannata.pt
🌱 O Botanista – Cais do Sodré
O Botanista blends botanical décor with a menu of nutrient-rich vegan meals including smoothie bowls, mushroom burgers, and desserts free from refined sugars. A peaceful haven for health-conscious foodies.
📍 Address: Rua Dom Luís I 19, 1200-149 Lisboa
🌐 Website:
Where to stay in Lisbon
Baixa & Rossio – The Historic Heart of Lisbon
Baixa and Rossio form the central, flat part of Lisbon that’s ideal for first-time visitors. This area is packed with grand plazas, neoclassical architecture, and pedestrian streets lined with shops, cafés, and bakeries. With easy access to public transport, walking distance to major sights like the Elevador de Santa Justa and Praça do Comércio, and a lively atmosphere, Baixa and Rossio are perfect for those who want to be at the centre of it all.
Pros: Central location, excellent public transport, walkable, close to attractions
Cons: Can be noisy and crowded during peak tourist seasons
Alfama – Old-World Charm and Fado Music
Alfama is Lisbon’s oldest district, a maze of narrow, winding streets climbing the hillside below São Jorge Castle. It offers a more authentic, traditional experience, filled with fado music venues, small family-run restaurants, and a deeply historic feel. Staying here immerses you in the soul of Lisbon.
Pros: Authentic atmosphere, beautiful views, close to the castle
Cons: Hilly terrain, fewer modern amenities, limited transport access
Bairro Alto – Nightlife and Bohemian Spirit
If you’re looking for vibrant nightlife, Bairro Alto is the place to be. By day, it’s a quiet and charming district, but by night it transforms into one of Lisbon’s liveliest areas, full of bars, clubs, and restaurants. It’s also close to the stylish Chiado neighbourhood, making it a versatile location.
Pros: Fantastic nightlife, central, good mix of culture and fun
Cons: Can be noisy late at night, some steep streets
Chiado – Sophisticated and Stylish
Chiado is an elegant, artsy area just south of Bairro Alto, known for its cultural landmarks, stylish boutiques, and historic cafés. It’s a great area for those wanting a more refined and quieter base that still offers easy access to nightlife, shopping, and Lisbon’s top attractions.
Pros: Classy and central, great shopping and dining, cultural vibe
Cons: Slightly more expensive, less nightlife than neighbouring Bairro Alto
Príncipe Real – Trendy and Peaceful
North of Bairro Alto, Príncipe Real is one of Lisbon’s most up-and-coming districts. Known for its leafy parks, boutique shops, LGBTQ+ friendly venues, and relaxed cafés, it appeals to a younger and more laid-back crowd. It’s quieter than central districts, making it great for families or those seeking peace and quiet.
Pros: Stylish, family-friendly, quieter than the centre
Cons: Slightly further from main tourist sights
Belém – Riverside History and Monuments
Belém is a historic riverside district west of the city centre, famous for its monuments such as the Jerónimos Monastery, Belém Tower, and the original Pastéis de Belém bakery. It’s a peaceful area with green spaces and cultural sites, ideal for a more relaxed stay.
Pros: Historic sights, calmer environment, riverside views
Cons: Not walkable to central Lisbon, relies on trams or taxis
Parque das Nações – Modern and Family-Friendly
Located in the northeast of Lisbon, Parque das Nações is a modern, redeveloped area from the Expo ’98 World Fair. It features wide open spaces, contemporary architecture, the Lisbon Oceanarium, and a riverside promenade. It’s best for families or business travellers.
Pros: Modern, clean, good for families, excellent facilities
Cons: Far from historic centre, lacks old Lisbon charm
1. Mid Range: Ikonik Lisboa
Ikonik Lisboa is a modern 3-star hotel situated in Lisbon’s Parque das Nações district, known for its contemporary architecture and vibrant atmosphere. The hotel offers 231 spacious and comfortable rooms, each featuring an elegant design inspired by the city of Lisbon. Guests can choose between double or twin rooms, some of which provide city or river views.
The hotel’s location is particularly convenient, being within walking distance of key attractions such as the Lisbon Oceanarium, Vasco da Gama Shopping Centre, and the Altice Arena. Additionally, the Gare do Oriente train and metro station is nearby, offering easy access to other parts of the city.
2. Luxury – EPIC SANA Marquês Hotel
The EPIC SANA Marquês Hotel is a 5-star luxury establishment situated in the heart of Lisbon, near the renowned Marquês de Pombal Square and Avenida da Liberdade. This prime location offers guests convenient access to the city’s cultural landmarks, upscale shopping districts, and beautiful parks.
Accommodations: The hotel boasts 379 elegantly designed rooms and suites, each crafted to provide a modern luxury experience. Amenities include king-size or twin beds, luxury Aromatherapy Associates bathroom products, LCD TVs, USB sockets, minibars, and complimentary welcome amenities such as water and espresso coffee facilities.
3. Budget – Patria Hotel
Patria Hotel is a centrally located accommodation in Lisbon, situated at Avenida Duque de Ávila 42, near Saldanha Square. The hotel offers air-conditioned rooms equipped with amenities such as flat-screen TVs, electric kettles, and private bathrooms with hairdryers. Guests can enjoy complimentary Wi-Fi throughout the property. A continental breakfast buffet is available each morning. The hotel’s proximity to the Saldanha Metro station, just a minute’s walk away, provides convenient access to Lisbon’s historic center, including areas like Chiado, Rossio, and Bairro Alto, reachable within a 10-minute metro ride.
More to Explore
