Batalha Monastery is the most important Portuguese gothic building and quite a prominent one in the Iberian Peninsula and Europe. It is also the cradle of manueline architecture. The monastery was first listed as National Monument in 1907 and 1910, and as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1983.
Portugal: Leiria – Alcobaça Monastery
About the Monastery of Alcobaça
The Abbey of Santa Maria de Alcobaça was established while Portugal was still a fledgling Kingdom and soon became one of the most important and most influential Cistercian centres in the whole of the Iberian Peninsula. It was founded in 1153 by the first Portuguese king, Afonso Henriques, when the monarch granted the “Couto Charter” to Bernard of Clairvaux, thus donating to the Cistercian Order some 44,000 hectares of land stretching from the Serra dos Candeeiros hills in the east to the Atlantic coast in the west, and from the outskirts of Leiria in the north to Óbidos in the south. This immense, almost deserted stretch of land lent itself to the Cistercian vocation of farming and settlement, which required isolated and fertile land that was rich in water.
The construction of the monastery spanned several centuries of Portuguese history, witnessing the country’s golden ages. The architectural plan is based on the mother house in Clairvaux and follows the philosophy of austerity and simplicity advocated by St. Bernard. The works began in 1178, beginning with the church, which was to become the largest Gothic church in Portugal. The monastic wings were begun at the same time. In the 13th century, some of the other mediaeval rooms such as the Chapter House, Dormitory, Monks’ Room and Refectory were added.
By order of King Dinis, a cloister was built in 1308. It became the largest cloister built during the whole first Portuguese dynasty (the Burgundy or Afonsine dynasty).
Also in the 14th century, the tombs of King Pedro and Inês de Castro, which are unique examples of Gothic funereal sculpture in Portugal, were placed in the Royal Pantheon.
By the reign of Manuel I in the 16th century, the Cistercian Order had achieved great economic power and was home to between 450 and 1000 monks. A new campaign of works was begun, at the instigation of the king. These included the Library, the New Sacristy, the Upper Cloister, the Kings’ Room and the Palace.
The King Dinis Cloister
We began our tour of the monastery in the cloister, which is known as the King Dinis Cloister. It was the second cloister we had seen today (after our morning visit to Batalha), and this cloister was even grander.
This is the only mediaeval cloister in Alcobaça Monastery. Built during the reign of King Dinis, most likely between 1308 and 1311, it was designed by Domingo Domingues and Master Diogo.
Later, when Manuel I was on the throne (1495-1521), Abbot Jorge de Melo had an upper floor added (the Upper Cloister), designed by João de Castilho.
The cloister features vaulted ceilings, with transverse round arches and ogives (transverse ribs).
The Refectory
Along the cloister, we came to a simple fountain, which was a lavatorium where the monks would have washed their hands before entering the refectory to have their meals.
the Refectory is an impressive space thanks to its dimensions, meticulous architecture and structural complexity.
The interior consists of three vaulted naves divided by two rows of four columns, giving the room harmony and spatial unity.
Particularly noteworthy is the elegant pulpit on the western side, from which one of the monks would read from the Holy Scriptures during the meals.
The Kitchen
Next door, the so-called “new” kitchen – completely lined with tiles dated 1752 – features an enormous chimney supported by eight cast-iron columns – quite the innovation in its time. Underneath, the fireplace is large enough to roast seven oxen at the same time. We craned our necks to see the top of the chimney, about 40 to 50 feet high.
The Alcoa River was diverted so a branch flowed under the monastery to supply water to the kitchen. Huge stone sinks the size of large bathtubs received water from gargoyle spouts. An open cistern at one end is the size of a small swimming pool. The kitchen would have produced meals for hundreds of monks and the peasants who worked the monastery lands every day.
The Dormitory
From the cloisters, there is a stairway leading to the upper level, where there is a very large space which is the dormitory where the monks would have slept.
Also, from the dormitory, you can get to a viewing platform that overlooks the cloisters below. From here you can get a full appreciation of this oasis of tranquillity.
The Chapter House
From the dormitory, we headed back downstairs to the ground floor of the cloisters to continue our tour.
The chapter house was the next room we visited. The walls of this room are lined with statues of religious figures.
The King’s Room
The final room on this part of the tour was a space known as the King’s Room, which gets its name from the series of 17th–18th-century statues representing the kings of Portugal.
The walls are decorated with blue-white 18th-century tiles that tell the history of the Monastery of Alcobaça, since its foundation by Afonso Henriques.
The Church
We left the main part of the monastery and headed to the church, which is open to the public and free to enter.
The church is massive, with a nave that is over 100 metres long. What we loved about this church was the simplicity of the design. No frills here!
Work began on the church in 1178, but the exact date of its completion is unknown. What is known is that it was consecrated in 1252.
The layout is based on the Latin cross (symbol of Christianity); it features a main nave and the transept, which houses the tombs of King Pedro and Inês de Castro.
Planning your visit to Monastery of Alcobaça
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Getting to Monastery of Alcobaça
You can get to the Monastery of Alcobaça by motorway: from Lisbon or Leira via the A8 motorway, exit Alcobaça/Nazaré/Valado dos Frades. Then take the national route EN 8-5 to Alcobaça.
Alternatively you can take the A1 motorway to Alcobaça (exit at Leiria if you’re coming from the North, or at Aveiras if you’re coming from Lisbon/the South) and/or the IC2 route.
Coordinates: 39° 32′ 54″ N, 8° 58′ 48″ W
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