Zalipie, a small village in southeastern Poland, is renowned for its unique tradition of hand-painted floral decorations adorning homes, fences, wells and even barns, creating a colourful and distinctive folk-art landscape that has been maintained for over a century.
Poland: Krakow – Wieliczka Salt Mine
🚍 The Journey to Auschwitz
Our trip to Auschwitz began with a drive of just over an hour from Kraków. As we made our way through the Polish countryside, a black-and-white Soviet documentary was played on the bus. Filmed not long after the liberation of the camp, the footage was raw and unsettling. Despite its grainy quality, the images of hollow-eyed survivors and skeletal figures carried a grim weight. Some of those filmed were among the few who hadn’t yet been forced west on death marches. Those who remained were barely recognisable as living people—more like shadows of themselves. It set the tone for what was to come.
🔍 Arrival and Security
We arrived at Auschwitz I, the original part of the camp complex. Before entry, we were put through full security checks, including bag searches and scanners. Given the significance of the site and the number of international and Jewish visitors, this was entirely appropriate. As we walked towards the camp, speakers relayed an ongoing loop of names—Holocaust victims read out one by one. It was steady, deliberate, and without end. Before we had even stepped through the gate, the sheer scale of the loss was being made clear.
🚪 Through the Gate
We entered under the now infamous iron arch bearing the words “Arbeit macht frei” – “Work sets you free.” It’s a phrase with a long history, but here it was used by the Nazis with calculated cruelty. It suggested a false hope of freedom through labour, when in reality, this gate led into a site of relentless brutality and mass murder. Originally a Polish army barracks in Oświęcim, the site was converted into a concentration camp in 1940 after the German invasion. It started with Polish political prisoners but quickly expanded to house Soviet POWs, Roma, and Jews. By 1944, over 16,000 people were crammed inside.
🏛️ Exhibitions in the Camp
The camp has been preserved as a museum since the war ended. Many of the blocks now contain exhibitions, each focusing on different aspects of camp life and Nazi crimes.
Block 4 – Extermination
We started with Block 4, which focused on the mechanisms of mass murder. Inside were original Nazi documents, maps, and a model of the gas chambers and crematoria. Among the most striking objects were empty Zyklon B canisters—the very chemical used in the gas chambers—and parts of destroyed crematorium machinery. The worst sight, though, was a room filled with human hair. Two tonnes of it, sheared from victims, lay behind glass. The Nazis intended to use it for cloth and socks. It was silent in the room, and photography was strictly forbidden. Understandably so.
Block 5 – Evidence of Crime
Block 5 housed piles of personal belongings taken from prisoners: suitcases, pots, brushes, glasses, and shoes. What stood out most were the children’s items—tiny shoes and clothes. There were also prosthetics, prayer shawls, and other deeply personal effects. On their own, each item was unremarkable. But together, they spoke of lives interrupted, families torn apart, and deaths that came without ceremony or warning.
Block 6 and 7 – Camp Life
Block 6 gave an insight into the daily life of prisoners. Photographs, some taken secretly, showed inmates at forced labour, receiving starvation rations, and being abused by guards. In Block 7, we saw reconstructions of the barracks. Wooden bunks stacked three high, bare washrooms, and freezing rooms without heating. Illness and hypothermia were constant threats.
Block 10 – Medical Experiments
Block 10 contained some of the most disturbing content. It focused on so-called “medical” experiments conducted by SS doctors, particularly Josef Mengele. His fascination with twins and children led to grotesque and inhumane procedures. Instruments, notes, and diagrams hinted at what had taken place, though the full extent is difficult to grasp.
Block 11 – Death Block
Known as the Death Block, Block 11 was used for torture and execution. It was also where early gas experiments with Zyklon B took place. Outside stood the Death Wall, where thousands were executed by firing squad. We also saw a replica of the gallows used to hang the camp commandant, Rudolf Höss, in 1947.
Gas Chamber I and Crematorium I
We finished our time in Auschwitz I by visiting Gas Chamber I and Crematorium I. The chamber, disguised as a shower room, was one of the first purpose-built killing centres. It remains largely intact. Walking through it, the atmosphere was heavy. It was one thing to read about these places—being inside was something else entirely.
🚂 Birkenau – Auschwitz II
From there, we travelled a short distance to Auschwitz II–Birkenau. If Auschwitz I is compact, Birkenau is vast. Spread across more than 400 acres, it was the main extermination site. Originally built over the destroyed village of Brzezinka, it became operational in 1941. At its height, it held over 90,000 people.
We entered through the familiar guard tower and railway line seen in countless photographs. Trains brought victims from all over Europe. On arrival, people were “selected”—those unfit for labour went straight to the gas chambers. Others were sent to work until they died of exhaustion, illness, or starvation.
🔥 The Remains
Much of Birkenau’s original structure is gone. The wooden barracks have mostly collapsed, but the chimneys remain, forming rows across the site. It was bleak and open, a stark contrast to Auschwitz I. We visited the ruins of the gas chambers and crematoria, blown up by the Nazis in 1945 in an attempt to hide evidence of their crimes. With the help of the models we had seen earlier, we could picture what once stood there.
One surviving barracks had been restored. It was filled with rows of wooden bunks, no heating, no insulation. Each person had barely a metre to sleep in. It was here, among the cold and quiet, that the human cost became most real.
🤫 The Silence
What struck me most throughout the day was the silence. Not enforced, but natural. Nobody talked much—not in our group, not elsewhere. There didn’t seem to be anything to say. Words would have felt out of place.
🍽️ The Return
We returned to Kraków by early evening, dropped off near the city centre around eight o’clock. Neither of us spoke much on the way back. We ended up in a quiet vegan café. I don’t remember what we ate. It wasn’t about the food—it was just a place to sit and think.
🧠 Final Thoughts
Visiting Auschwitz-Birkenau is not pleasant. It’s not meant to be. It’s hard, uncomfortable, and at times deeply upsetting. But it is also necessary. Nowhere else have I seen such a systematic and deliberate attempt to erase human lives. And nowhere else have I felt the importance of remembering so clearly. If we don’t visit places like this—if we don’t confront what happened—we risk forgetting just how far humanity can fall.
☕ Exit and Reflection
The tour wrapped up in one of the largest chambers at 135 metres underground. From there, you can choose to visit a small museum or stop for a coffee in the underground café. Given that Karen was waiting for me above ground, I skipped both. I followed the guide through a long tunnel towards the lift shaft, a walk that took about ten minutes. After being collected with a small group, we had another twenty-minute trek before finally reaching the lift—a no-nonsense, metal cage that shot back to the surface in seconds.
Oddly enough, I didn’t come out where I’d gone in. The exit was on the other side of the complex, so it took another ten minutes on foot to find my way back to Karen.
🛏️ An Unusual Place to Sleep
Before leaving, I learned that the mine also functions as a health retreat. There’s a stable complex 135 metres below ground where people can actually stay overnight. The mine’s microclimate—high in salt, low in allergens—is thought to offer therapeutic benefits, especially for those with respiratory problems or allergies. Some guests have stayed for extended periods hoping to improve chronic conditions.
🧳 Final Thoughts
All in all, despite the hiccup with Karen’s panic attack, the Wieliczka Salt Mine was worth the stop. It’s a curious blend of history, science, and sheer human effort. A solid way to kick off our trip—and a good reminder that not all of Poland’s treasures sit above ground.
Planning your visit to Wieliczka Salt Mine
🗺️ Location & Address
The Wieliczka Salt Mine is located just outside of Kraków, making it an ideal day trip from the city.
Address:
Wieliczka Salt Mine
ul. Daniłowicza 10
32-020 Wieliczka, Poland
🌐 Website & Contact Information
Website: https://www.kopalnia.pl
Email: turystyka@kopalnia.pl
Telephone: +48 12 278 73 02
🕒 Opening Hours
Monday to Sunday: 08:30 – 17:30 (last entry may vary depending on the tour type)
Open year-round, excluding certain public holidays (check website for seasonal changes).
🎟️ Entry Fees (as of 2025)
Prices may vary slightly depending on the type of tour and language selected. Here are the general admission rates:
Standard Guided Tour (Tourist Route):
Adults: 119 PLN
Students/Seniors: 109 PLN
Children (5–17): 99 PLN
Family Ticket (2 Adults + 2 Children): 395 PLN
Miners’ Route or Pilgrims’ Route: Slightly different prices—check official site for details.
💡 Tickets can be purchased online in advance via the official website to ensure availability, especially during peak tourist seasons.
Getting around Kraków
Kraków is a compact and walkable city, particularly in and around the Old Town and Kazimierz districts. Many of the main attractions are within close proximity, so exploring on foot is often the most pleasant and practical option. The pedestrian-friendly streets, historic architecture and relatively flat terrain make walking both easy and enjoyable. Most pavements are in good condition, although some older cobbled streets can be a little uneven.
🚌 Public Transport
Kraków has an efficient and affordable public transport system consisting of trams and buses. Services run regularly from early morning until late at night, with night buses available on key routes. Tickets must be purchased in advance from machines at major stops or kiosks, and must be validated once on board. Single-journey tickets are available, but day passes or multi-day options offer better value for visitors planning to use transport frequently.
Trams are generally the fastest way to get around, especially during peak hours when roads can become congested. The network covers a wide area of the city, making it a reliable option for reaching parts of Kraków beyond the central core.
🚖 Taxis and Ride-Hailing
Taxis are widely available, although it is recommended to use registered companies or book via a reputable app to avoid overcharging. Bolt and Uber both operate in Kraków and are often cheaper and more convenient than hailing a taxi from the street. Prices are reasonable by UK standards, and vehicles tend to be clean and modern.
🚲 Cycling
Kraków is increasingly cycle-friendly, with a growing network of dedicated cycle paths and bike lanes. The city also has a bike-sharing scheme called Wavelo, although availability and reliability can vary. Many hotels and accommodation providers offer bicycle hire, which can be a good option for covering more ground at your own pace.
🚆 Getting Further Afield
For trips beyond the city, Kraków’s main railway station (Kraków Główny) offers connections to other parts of Poland and international destinations. Regional buses also run from nearby terminals, though trains tend to be more comfortable and quicker. Day trips to places like the Wieliczka Salt Mine or Auschwitz-Birkenau can be arranged through local tour operators or via public transport with a bit of planning.
Eating out for vegans in Kraków
The best time to visit Kraków
☀️ Spring (March to May)
Spring is one of the best times to visit Kraków. As the city shakes off the winter chill, temperatures begin to rise steadily, usually reaching between 10°C and 20°C by May. Flowers bloom across the parks and squares, and the trees along the Vistula River come back to life. The city feels fresh and energised, with fewer tourists compared to summer, making it ideal for sightseeing without the crowds.
Outdoor cafés start reopening, and festivals such as the Misteria Paschalia (a classical music event during Easter) add a cultural touch to the season. Light layers and a rain jacket are advisable, as the weather can still be a bit unpredictable.
🌞 Summer (June to August)
Summer in Kraków is warm, often sunny, and the most popular time for visitors. Daytime temperatures usually sit between 20°C and 30°C. This is peak tourist season, so expect busy squares, especially around Rynek Główny (the Main Market Square) and Wawel Castle.
It’s a great time for enjoying outdoor dining, open-air concerts, and walking tours, particularly in the early morning or evening when it’s cooler. Do be prepared for crowds at major attractions, and book accommodation in advance if travelling in July or August. Summer thunderstorms are not uncommon, so packing a small umbrella is a good idea.
🍂 Autumn (September to November)
Autumn is another excellent time to visit Kraków. The crowds begin to thin out, and the temperatures remain pleasant through most of September and early October, typically ranging from 10°C to 20°C. The changing leaves turn the city’s parks and tree-lined streets into vibrant shades of orange and gold, creating a lovely atmosphere for strolling.
Cultural life picks up again after the summer lull, with the start of the academic year bringing renewed energy to the city. Pack layers and a warm jacket for later in the season as it can turn chilly by November.
❄️ Winter (December to February)
Winter in Kraków is cold, often snowy, and has a completely different charm. Temperatures often drop below freezing, especially in January, but the city wears winter well. Christmas markets in the Main Square are particularly atmospheric, offering mulled wine, festive food, and handmade crafts.
Though daylight hours are shorter, attractions such as Wawel Castle and the museums remain open, and the cold weather makes a good excuse to enjoy hearty Polish food. It’s also a less expensive time to visit, with fewer tourists and lower accommodation costs—aside from the Christmas and New Year period.
Summary:
For mild weather and fewer tourists, spring and autumn are arguably the best times to visit Kraków. Summer is ideal for festivals and outdoor life but comes with larger crowds, while winter offers a quieter, more atmospheric experience, especially around Christmas.
Where to stay in Kraków
The Old Town (Stare Miasto)
At the very heart of Kraków, you’ll find the Rynek Głowny. This is the city’s huge main square, and UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s such a pleasure to wander around the cobblestone streets, explore the alleyways, or drink a cold beer in one of the cafes.
This medieval centre runs from the Royal gate in the North to the stunning castle by the river. It’s encircled by remains of old city walls and the gorgeous Planty green belt. All of this area is considered to be within the “Old Town”.
Kazimierz: Kraków’s Jewish District
Once an independent city, Kazimierz is today one of Kraków’s most famous districts. It boasts a wealth of unique cafés, nightlife and gastronomy. Kazimierz is not as pretty as the Old Town but has an almost Bohemian vibe. It’s a very cool place to stay and explore. Kazimierz is definitely a serious contender when thinking of where to stay in Krakow.
Kazimierz has a number of fascinating squares, connected by interwoven streets and narrow alleyways. On the southern edge, you have the Vistula (Wisła) river and river boulevards. It’s a lovely place for a walk and there’s a number of riverboats where you can stop for some food and drink.
Next to Kazimier’s 14th Century synagogue, you’ll find Szeroka square, lined with Polish and Jewish restaurants. With live music drifting across the square, it’s a laid-back, buzzing atmosphere. A great spot to soak up the area’s rich history.
Podgorze
If you’re looking for where to stay in Krakow that’s a little quieter, cheaper, but still easily accessible, Podgórze is the place to be. It’s just across the river from Kazimierz and the castle. This side of the river is far less touristy than the Old Town and Kazimierz. However, it’s steadily developing a reputation as one of Kraków’s more interesting districts.
This area is known as the former WWII Jewish Ghetto. It is famously home to Oscar Shindler’s factory – the man responsible for saving over a thousand Polish Jews from the Nazis. Just like Kazimierz, the area has moved on from its dark past and is now full of life, culture and gastronomy.
1. Luxury – Hotel H15 Francuski Old Town
The elegant, 5-star Hotel H15 Francuski Old Town – Destigo Hotels is located only 400 metres from the Main Market Square in Kraków. It offers stylish rooms with free internet, tea and coffee-making facilities and a minibar.
All rooms at the Francuski are decorated in Art Nouveau style with period details and furniture. Each comes with satellite TV and a bathroom with a bathtub or shower, toiletries and a hairdryer.
A buffet breakfast is served every morning in the hotel restaurant. The bar is a great place to relax with a drink. The hotel also has a restaurant serving French cuisine, as well as completely gluten-free dishes.
2. Mid-Range – Pollera
Founded in 1834, the Pollera is conveniently located within Cracow’s Old Town. St Mary’s Basilica and the Main Market are only 300 metres away from the hotel. Free Wi-Fi is available in the entire building. Parking is available, reservation is required.
Inspired by Art Nouveau, the interior design of the Pollera features wooden furniture in darker colours. Each room has a satellite TV and a private bathroom with free toiletries. Complimentary mineral water is also provided.
The Pollera offers a breakfast buffet in the morning. Guests can also order it directly to their rooms.
Kazimierz, the old Jewish district which features several Synagogues, is 1 km away from the hotel. Guests can also choose to visit the Wawel Castle, which is 1.2 km from the hotel. The hotel is located about 8 minutes walk from the Main Railway Station.
3. Budget – ibis budget Krakow Stare Miasto
Well situated in the centre of Kraków, ibis budget Krakow Stare Miasto offers air-conditioned rooms, a garden, free WiFi and a shared lounge. This 1-star hotel offers a 24-hour front desk and an ATM. Private parking can be arranged at an extra charge.
The hotel offers a buffet or continental breakfast.
Ibis budget Krakow Stare Miasto offers a terrace.
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