Visiting Auschwitz, with its haunting remnants of barbed wire fences, crumbling barracks, and rooms filled with the personal belongings of victims, is an emotionally overwhelming yet profoundly important experience that forces one to confront the horrifying depths of human cruelty, reflect on the immense suffering endured by millions during the Holocaust, and recognise the enduring necessity of remembrance and education to prevent such atrocities from ever happening again.
Poland: Kraków – “Polish Athens”
Contents
1. About Kraków
2. Things to do
– Visit Wawel Castle
– Experience the Schindler Factory Museum
– Visit the Main Market Square (Rynek Główny)
– Visit the Church of Saints Peter and Paul
– Church of St Francis of Assisi – Gothic Grandeur and Art Nouveau Genius
– Take a soak at the Beernarium Piwne Spa
– Understand the horrors of Auschwitz-Birkenau
– Deep dive at Wieliczka Salt Mine
3. Getting around
4. Vegan dining options
5. Best time to visit
6. Where to stay
About Kraków
Kraków, one of Poland’s oldest and most iconic cities, is steeped in history and cultural richness. Once the royal capital, it boasts a well-preserved mediaeval core and Jewish quarter that reflect its diverse past. The historic centre, including the Rynek Główny (Main Market Square), is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and features landmarks such as St Mary’s Basilica and the Cloth Hall. Kraków Castle, perched on Wawel Hill, is another highlight, serving as a symbol of national pride and centuries of royal history.
The city is also known for its vibrant cultural scene. Home to several major universities, including the renowned Jagiellonian University, Kraków attracts students, academics, and artists alike. The city hosts numerous festivals throughout the year, such as the Kraków Film Festival and the Jewish Culture Festival, celebrating its long-standing traditions and contemporary creativity. The streets of Kazimierz, the old Jewish district, are now alive with cafés, art galleries, and music venues that blend the old with the new.
Kraków’s atmosphere is both dynamic and reflective, making it a popular destination for visitors from around the world. While its cobbled streets and gothic churches offer a journey into the past, its modern amenities and thriving nightlife appeal to a younger crowd. Despite the influx of tourists, Kraków retains a strong sense of identity and local charm. From exploring its poignant history at sites like Oskar Schindler’s factory to simply enjoying a quiet moment by the Vistula River, Kraków offers an experience that is both profound and picturesque.
Things to do
Visit Wawel Castle
Perched majestically on a limestone hill overlooking the Vistula River, Wawel Castle is one of Poland’s most iconic and historically rich landmarks. Situated in the heart of Kraków, this sprawling royal complex serves as a potent symbol of Polish national identity and pride. The castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, showcases an eclectic blend of architectural styles—Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque—reflecting the various epochs of its long and storied past. Originally constructed in the 11th century, Wawel has served as the seat of Polish monarchs for centuries, and its chambers, halls, and chapels echo the grandeur of a bygone era. The opulent State Rooms, the Crown Treasury and Armoury, and the Royal Private Apartments offer a glimpse into the lavish lifestyle of kings and queens, while the Wawel Cathedral, adjacent to the castle, stands as the spiritual heart of Poland, having hosted coronations and served as the final resting place for many of the nation’s most revered figures. The castle grounds themselves, meticulously preserved and landscaped, are a joy to wander, offering visitors a serene escape and stunning panoramic views of Kraków’s Old Town. More than just a historical monument, Wawel Castle continues to captivate scholars, tourists, and locals alike, acting as a tangible link between Poland’s past and present, and a powerful reminder of the enduring legacy of its cultural and political heritage.
Experience the Schindler Factory Museum
Visiting the Schindler Factory Museum in Kraków is a deeply moving and educational experience that offers a powerful insight into the horrors of World War II and the Nazi occupation of Poland. Housed in the original enamel factory once owned by Oskar Schindler, the museum presents a meticulously curated exhibition that tells the story not only of Schindler himself but also of the everyday lives of Kraków’s Jewish population during the Holocaust. Through immersive displays, multimedia installations, and authentic artefacts, visitors are transported back in time to understand the suffering, resistance, and resilience of the people who lived through these dark times. The museum also highlights Schindler’s transformation from a war profiteer to a humanitarian who saved over a thousand Jewish lives. It is a sobering but essential stop for anyone seeking to understand the complex and tragic history of the region.
Visit the Main Market Square (Rynek Główny)
The Main Market Square (Rynek Główny) in Kraków is not only the beating heart of the city but also one of Europe’s most enchanting and historic urban spaces. Dating back to the 13th century, this vast square—one of the largest medieval town squares in Europe—buzzes with life throughout the year, offering a captivating mix of architecture, culture, and local flavour. Framed by elegant townhouses with pastel façades and intricate detailing, the square is anchored by the magnificent Cloth Hall (Sukiennice), once a hub for international trade and now home to market stalls and the upper-floor Gallery of 19th-Century Polish Art. Towering above it all is the iconic St. Mary’s Basilica, from which the plaintive hourly trumpet call, the hejnał, sounds out over the rooftops, a haunting tradition that pays tribute to the city’s medieval past. Street performers, flower sellers, and café terraces animate the cobblestones, making it the perfect place to people-watch with a coffee or a glass of chilled local beer. Horse-drawn carriages clatter past, and pigeons wheel through the air, while seasonal markets—especially the Christmas and Easter fairs—transform the square into a wonderland of local crafts, food, and festive charm. Whether you’re admiring the Renaissance arcades of the Cloth Hall, descending into the Rynek Underground Museum, or simply soaking up the atmosphere, Rynek Główny is the soul of Kraków, where centuries of history meet the vibrant rhythm of modern Polish life.
Visit the Church of Saints Peter and Paul
The Church of Saints Peter and Paul, built in the late 1500s, stands as a fine example of Baroque architecture, its façade lined with stone Apostles that lend it a rather solemn presence. A sign advertising an evening concert drew us inside, more out of curiosity than design. While I settled on a pew to rest, Karen struck up a conversation with the chap selling tickets, who proved to be quite the enthusiast. He directed our attention to a plaque commemorating the marriage of Pope John Paul II’s parents—a detail I wouldn’t have noticed otherwise—and then launched into an explanation of the church’s Foucault pendulum. Suspended from the dome, it quietly traces the Earth’s rotation, a reminder of the physical truths that persist irrespective of setting. Originally installed in 1949, removed for renovations, and reinstalled at the turn of the millennium, it is the longest of its kind in Poland. Its silent arc, oddly at home beneath the ornate ceiling, offered a moment for reflection on how science and faith have long danced around one another. At the man’s suggestion, we descended into the crypt, the so-called Pantheon of Polish National Heroes. It was a subdued chamber, lined with plaques to figures mostly unknown to us—poets, thinkers, cultural men of their time. We were on our way out when our guide mentioned, almost in passing, the Polish mathematicians Rejewski, Różycki, and Zygalski. Their work on the Enigma cipher predated and enabled the efforts at Bletchley Park. I felt a twinge of embarrassment that I hadn’t known their names. We turned back, quietly paying our respects to men whose contribution to the war effort had been vital, though their recognition in Britain remains regrettably thin.
Church of St Francis of Assisi – Gothic Grandeur and Art Nouveau Genius
The Church of St Francis of Assisi in Kraków proved to be an unexpected highlight of our visit—an encounter that began modestly but left a lasting impression. From the outside, its early Gothic form stood out straight away, notable not only for its austere elegance but for its historical significance as the city’s first brick building, dating back to the 13th century. It is, architecturally speaking, a landmark of its period. But it was the interior that truly surprised us. In the late 19th century, the church underwent a major renovation led by Stanisław Wyspiański, a central figure in Poland’s Art Nouveau movement. His contribution transformed the church’s interior with bold, flowing patterns and intensely coloured stained glass, departing from the more restrained character typical of Gothic spaces. The most striking of these was the towering window titled God in the Act of Creation, a piece of stained glass so vivid and arresting in its expression that it stands among the finest examples of modern stained glass I have encountered anywhere. We hadn’t planned the visit, but in hindsight, it was one of the most rewarding stops of the entire journey.
Take a soak at the Beernarium Piwne Spa
I’ll admit, neither Karen nor I approached the Beernarium Beer Spa with much certainty. She was unsure, I was sceptical. The premise sounded rather daft — bathing in beer ingredients — but it turned out to be quite the restorative surprise. We were met with polite efficiency and led to a private chamber set beneath a vaulted brick ceiling, which gave the place a sort of old-world charm. After changing into the requisite disposable garments, we were introduced to our wooden tubs — filled with a warm, aromatic blend of hops, yeast and herbs. A straw bed was set aside for cooling off if needed, and a tray of chilled beer had been positioned, thoughtfully, within reach. The hour passed quickly. The heat and scent were oddly comforting, and whatever tension we’d brought in with us melted away in the water. The session concluded with a brief massage, which rounded things off nicely. We left feeling oddly revitalised, mildly puzzled by how much we’d enjoyed it, but glad we gave it a go. Not something I’d have thought to try, but perhaps that’s the point.
Understand the horrors of Auschwitz-Birkenau
Visiting Auschwitz-Birkenau in Poland is a profoundly moving and sobering experience that leaves a lasting impression on all who walk its grounds. Located near the town of Oświęcim, this former Nazi concentration and extermination camp stands as a stark reminder of the horrors of the Holocaust. As one passes through the infamous “Arbeit macht frei” gate, a heavy silence often descends, replaced by quiet reflection and solemn reverence. The preserved barracks, gas chambers, and vast expanse of Birkenau serve not only as historical exhibits but also as powerful symbols of the immense human suffering endured there. Guided tours provide essential context, offering insight into the lives of the victims and the sheer scale of the atrocities committed. For many, a visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau is an essential act of remembrance, ensuring that the lessons of the past are not forgotten. It is not a typical tourist destination, but rather a deeply educational and emotional journey that challenges visitors to confront one of history’s darkest chapters with honesty and respect.
Deep dive at Wieliczka Salt Mine
The Wieliczka Salt Mine in Poland is one of the country’s most treasured historic landmarks, offering a fascinating glimpse into centuries of salt mining tradition. Located just a short distance from Kraków, the mine stretches for over 300 kilometres of tunnels, although only a small portion is open to the public. Visitors can explore stunning underground chambers, lakes, and chapels—all meticulously carved from rock salt by miners over the centuries. Among the most famous attractions is the Chapel of St Kinga, a vast subterranean church adorned with salt chandeliers and detailed bas-reliefs. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the mine combines natural beauty with human craftsmanship, making it an unforgettable destination for history enthusiasts, families, and travellers seeking a unique cultural experience.
Getting around Kraków
Kraków is a compact and walkable city, particularly in and around the Old Town and Kazimierz districts. Many of the main attractions are within close proximity, so exploring on foot is often the most pleasant and practical option. The pedestrian-friendly streets, historic architecture and relatively flat terrain make walking both easy and enjoyable. Most pavements are in good condition, although some older cobbled streets can be a little uneven.
🚌 Public Transport
Kraków has an efficient and affordable public transport system consisting of trams and buses. Services run regularly from early morning until late at night, with night buses available on key routes. Tickets must be purchased in advance from machines at major stops or kiosks, and must be validated once on board. Single-journey tickets are available, but day passes or multi-day options offer better value for visitors planning to use transport frequently.
Trams are generally the fastest way to get around, especially during peak hours when roads can become congested. The network covers a wide area of the city, making it a reliable option for reaching parts of Kraków beyond the central core.
🚖 Taxis and Ride-Hailing
Taxis are widely available, although it is recommended to use registered companies or book via a reputable app to avoid overcharging. Bolt and Uber both operate in Kraków and are often cheaper and more convenient than hailing a taxi from the street. Prices are reasonable by UK standards, and vehicles tend to be clean and modern.
🚲 Cycling
Kraków is increasingly cycle-friendly, with a growing network of dedicated cycle paths and bike lanes. The city also has a bike-sharing scheme called Wavelo, although availability and reliability can vary. Many hotels and accommodation providers offer bicycle hire, which can be a good option for covering more ground at your own pace.
🚆 Getting Further Afield
For trips beyond the city, Kraków’s main railway station (Kraków Główny) offers connections to other parts of Poland and international destinations. Regional buses also run from nearby terminals, though trains tend to be more comfortable and quicker. Day trips to places like the Wieliczka Salt Mine or Auschwitz-Birkenau can be arranged through local tour operators or via public transport with a bit of planning.
Eating out for vegans in Kraków
The best time to visit Kraków
☀️ Spring (March to May)
Spring is one of the best times to visit Kraków. As the city shakes off the winter chill, temperatures begin to rise steadily, usually reaching between 10°C and 20°C by May. Flowers bloom across the parks and squares, and the trees along the Vistula River come back to life. The city feels fresh and energised, with fewer tourists compared to summer, making it ideal for sightseeing without the crowds.
Outdoor cafés start reopening, and festivals such as the Misteria Paschalia (a classical music event during Easter) add a cultural touch to the season. Light layers and a rain jacket are advisable, as the weather can still be a bit unpredictable.
🌞 Summer (June to August)
Summer in Kraków is warm, often sunny, and the most popular time for visitors. Daytime temperatures usually sit between 20°C and 30°C. This is peak tourist season, so expect busy squares, especially around Rynek Główny (the Main Market Square) and Wawel Castle.
It’s a great time for enjoying outdoor dining, open-air concerts, and walking tours, particularly in the early morning or evening when it’s cooler. Do be prepared for crowds at major attractions, and book accommodation in advance if travelling in July or August. Summer thunderstorms are not uncommon, so packing a small umbrella is a good idea.
🍂 Autumn (September to November)
Autumn is another excellent time to visit Kraków. The crowds begin to thin out, and the temperatures remain pleasant through most of September and early October, typically ranging from 10°C to 20°C. The changing leaves turn the city’s parks and tree-lined streets into vibrant shades of orange and gold, creating a lovely atmosphere for strolling.
Cultural life picks up again after the summer lull, with the start of the academic year bringing renewed energy to the city. Pack layers and a warm jacket for later in the season as it can turn chilly by November.
❄️ Winter (December to February)
Winter in Kraków is cold, often snowy, and has a completely different charm. Temperatures often drop below freezing, especially in January, but the city wears winter well. Christmas markets in the Main Square are particularly atmospheric, offering mulled wine, festive food, and handmade crafts.
Though daylight hours are shorter, attractions such as Wawel Castle and the museums remain open, and the cold weather makes a good excuse to enjoy hearty Polish food. It’s also a less expensive time to visit, with fewer tourists and lower accommodation costs—aside from the Christmas and New Year period.
Summary:
For mild weather and fewer tourists, spring and autumn are arguably the best times to visit Kraków. Summer is ideal for festivals and outdoor life but comes with larger crowds, while winter offers a quieter, more atmospheric experience, especially around Christmas.
Where to stay in Kraków
The Old Town (Stare Miasto)
At the very heart of Kraków, you’ll find the Rynek Głowny. This is the city’s huge main square, and UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s such a pleasure to wander around the cobblestone streets, explore the alleyways, or drink a cold beer in one of the cafes.
This medieval centre runs from the Royal gate in the North to the stunning castle by the river. It’s encircled by remains of old city walls and the gorgeous Planty green belt. All of this area is considered to be within the “Old Town”.
Kazimierz: Kraków’s Jewish District
Once an independent city, Kazimierz is today one of Kraków’s most famous districts. It boasts a wealth of unique cafés, nightlife and gastronomy. Kazimierz is not as pretty as the Old Town but has an almost Bohemian vibe. It’s a very cool place to stay and explore. Kazimierz is definitely a serious contender when thinking of where to stay in Krakow.
Kazimierz has a number of fascinating squares, connected by interwoven streets and narrow alleyways. On the southern edge, you have the Vistula (Wisła) river and river boulevards. It’s a lovely place for a walk and there’s a number of riverboats where you can stop for some food and drink.
Next to Kazimier’s 14th Century synagogue, you’ll find Szeroka square, lined with Polish and Jewish restaurants. With live music drifting across the square, it’s a laid-back, buzzing atmosphere. A great spot to soak up the area’s rich history.
Podgorze
If you’re looking for where to stay in Krakow that’s a little quieter, cheaper, but still easily accessible, Podgórze is the place to be. It’s just across the river from Kazimierz and the castle. This side of the river is far less touristy than the Old Town and Kazimierz. However, it’s steadily developing a reputation as one of Kraków’s more interesting districts.
This area is known as the former WWII Jewish Ghetto. It is famously home to Oscar Shindler’s factory – the man responsible for saving over a thousand Polish Jews from the Nazis. Just like Kazimierz, the area has moved on from its dark past and is now full of life, culture and gastronomy.
1. Luxury – Hotel H15 Francuski Old Town
The elegant, 5-star Hotel H15 Francuski Old Town – Destigo Hotels is located only 400 metres from the Main Market Square in Kraków. It offers stylish rooms with free internet, tea and coffee-making facilities and a minibar.
All rooms at the Francuski are decorated in Art Nouveau style with period details and furniture. Each comes with satellite TV and a bathroom with a bathtub or shower, toiletries and a hairdryer.
A buffet breakfast is served every morning in the hotel restaurant. The bar is a great place to relax with a drink. The hotel also has a restaurant serving French cuisine, as well as completely gluten-free dishes.
2. Mid-Range – Pollera
Founded in 1834, the Pollera is conveniently located within Cracow’s Old Town. St Mary’s Basilica and the Main Market are only 300 metres away from the hotel. Free Wi-Fi is available in the entire building. Parking is available, reservation is required.
Inspired by Art Nouveau, the interior design of the Pollera features wooden furniture in darker colours. Each room has a satellite TV and a private bathroom with free toiletries. Complimentary mineral water is also provided.
The Pollera offers a breakfast buffet in the morning. Guests can also order it directly to their rooms.
Kazimierz, the old Jewish district which features several Synagogues, is 1 km away from the hotel. Guests can also choose to visit the Wawel Castle, which is 1.2 km from the hotel. The hotel is located about 8 minutes walk from the Main Railway Station.
3. Budget – ibis budget Krakow Stare Miasto
Well situated in the centre of Kraków, ibis budget Krakow Stare Miasto offers air-conditioned rooms, a garden, free WiFi and a shared lounge. This 1-star hotel offers a 24-hour front desk and an ATM. Private parking can be arranged at an extra charge.
The hotel offers a buffet or continental breakfast.
Ibis budget Krakow Stare Miasto offers a terrace.
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