The old town of Kos is a charming maze of narrow streets, historic ruins, and traditional whitewashed buildings, reflecting the island's rich history and cultural heritage.
Greece: Athens – Travel Guide
Contents
1. About Athens
2. Things to do
– The Acropolis
– Check out the Acropolis Museum
– Visit the Ancient Agora
– Explore the Roman Agora
– Watch the changing of the Guard at the tomb of the Unknown Soldier
– Holy Church of the Virgin Mary Pantanassa
– Visit Athens Cathedral and Little Metropolis
– Stroll the streets of the Plaka District
– Athens Flea Market
3. Getting around
4. Vegan dining options
5. The best time to visit
6. Where to stay
about
About Athens
Athens, the capital city of Greece, is a vibrant metropolis steeped in history and culture, offering a unique blend of ancient landmarks and modern urban life. Often referred to as the cradle of Western civilization and the birthplace of democracy, Athens has a history that spans over 3,000 years.
Historical Significance
Athens is most famous for its historical treasures, including the iconic Acropolis and the Parthenon, a temple dedicated to the goddess Athena, the city’s patron deity. Other significant ancient sites include the Ancient Agora, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, and the Panathenaic Stadium, which hosted the first modern Olympic Games in 1896.
Cultural Highlights
As a hub of philosophy, art, and politics in antiquity, Athens nurtured figures like Socrates, Plato, and Aristotle. Today, it continues to be a cultural beacon with world-class museums such as the Acropolis Museum and the National Archaeological Museum, which house artifacts from Greece’s illustrious past.
Modern Athens
Modern Athens is a bustling city with a lively urban scene, featuring vibrant neighbourhoods like Plaka, known for its narrow streets and traditional architecture, and Monastiraki, famous for its flea markets and cafes. The city also offers a thriving arts and nightlife scene, particularly in districts like Psiri and Gazi.
Natural Beauty and Mediterranean Charm
Nestled between mountains and the Aegean Sea, Athens boasts natural beauty alongside its urban appeal. The nearby beaches and the hill of Lycabettus provide stunning views of the city and beyond.
A Gateway to Greece
Athens serves as the gateway to the Greek islands and other parts of the country, making it an essential stop for travellers seeking to explore Greece’s rich heritage and natural landscapes.
Things to do
Visit the Acropolis
The Acropolis of Athens is an ancient citadel that sits atop a rocky hill overlooking the city, symbolizing the cultural and architectural achievements of ancient Greece. It is home to several iconic structures, most notably the Parthenon, a temple dedicated to the goddess Athena, who was considered the protector of the city. Built in the 5th century BCE during the leadership of Pericles, the Acropolis also includes the Erechtheion, the Temple of Athena Nike, and the Propylaea, all of which showcase the advanced design and artistry of classical Greek architecture. The Acropolis played a central role in religious and political life in ancient Athens, and today it stands as a UNESCO World Heritage site, attracting millions of visitors from around the world who come to admire its historical significance and enduring beauty.
Check out the Acropolis Museum
The Acropolis Museum in Athens is a world-renowned archaeological museum located at the foot of the iconic Acropolis hill. It houses a rich collection of artifacts and sculptures from the Acropolis and surrounding ancient sites, providing a captivating glimpse into ancient Greek history and culture. Designed by architect Bernard Tschumi, the museum’s sleek modern architecture harmonizes with its historic surroundings, featuring glass floors that reveal ongoing archaeological excavations below. Notable exhibits include the Parthenon Marbles, the Caryatids from the Erechtheion, and intricate votive offerings. The museum’s layout, combining natural light and open spaces, allows visitors to appreciate the artistry of ancient Greece in a stunning contemporary setting
Explore the Ancient Agora
The Agora was the heart of ancient Athens, the focus of political, commercial, administrative and social activity, the religious and cultural centre, and the seat of justice.
The site was occupied without interruption in all periods of the city’s history. It was used as a residential and burial area as early as the Late Neolithic period (3000 B.C.). Early in the 6th century, in the time of Solon, the Agora became a public area.
The most prominent building on site is the Temple of Hephaistos which sits on top of Agoraios Kolonos hill. So, that is where we are headed. The temple is simply known as “Thisio” and is one of the best-preserved ancient temples in Greece, partly because it was transformed into a Christian church.
Check out the Roman Agora
The Roman Agora in Athens, a striking remnant of antiquity, served as a bustling marketplace and administrative hub during the Roman period. Constructed in the 1st century BCE, it was financed by Julius Caesar and Emperor Augustus, symbolizing the city’s prominence in the Roman Empire. Located near the iconic Acropolis, this open-air space features remarkable ruins, including the Gate of Athena Archegetis, an imposing colonnaded entrance, and the Tower of the Winds, a well-preserved octagonal clocktower and meteorological station. The agora was a center of commerce and daily life, embodying the fusion of Greek and Roman architectural styles. Today, it stands as a testament to Athens’ historical evolution, drawing visitors to its ancient stones that echo the vibrancy of a bygone era.
Watch the changing of the Presidential Guard at the tomb of the Unknown Soldier
The tomb of the unknown soldier is located off Syntagma Square, in front of the Old Royal Palace. It is a cenotaph dedicated to the Greek soldiers killed during war.
The monument is guarded by the Presidential Guard, which is also called the “Evzones”. The unit was created by King Otto to protect the Royal family. Their uniforms are based on the traditional costume of the southern Greece of the 19th century. The red felt hat in the Ottoman style symbolises the bloodshed in the revolution against the Ottoman occupation, and the black tassels represent the tears of the Greeks, which they had shed during 400 years of Ottoman rule.
We arrived at the memorial just as the changing of the guard was ending. The two Evzones on guard duty were motionless as they stood there staring forward. Karen went over to another uniformed soldier who was obviously a supervisor to see when the next change was happening. She found out that on the half-hour the two guards would exchange their positions.
Dead on the half-hour the two guards begin their slow-motion, coordinated routine which includes scraping of their hob-nailed clogs on the ground, high kicks and swinging arms. Apparently, this routine was developed to restore the circulation of the guards after their motionless sentry duty. It looks a bit comical, particularly when they are wearing their traditional uniform, but these are elite guards so I would be wary of making fun of them!
After watching the guards change their positions, we decided to wait a further twenty minutes to watch the full changing of the guards.
Holy Church of the Virgin Mary Pantanassa
Among the modern buildings in Monastiraki Square is a small Byzantine church, the Holy Church of the Virgin Mary Pantanassa, which is all that remains of a large monastery that was once sited here. The church was known as the Great Monastery, and then later as Monastiraki (“little monastery”), which eventually became the name of the whole area.
Visit Athens Cathedral and Little Metropolis
The Cathedral of Athens, or to give its correct name the Holy Metropolitan Church of the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary (which is a bit of a mouthful) is found in Athen’s Monastiraki district.
We ventured inside and were very impressed with the decorations. The ceiling of the church was painted a bright, sky blue and decorated with gold stars and the stained-glass windows had circular glass panels made up of different colours. It looked very contemporary. It is a relatively new building. Construction began on Christmas Day, 1842 and was completed on May 21, 1862.
Right next to the cathedral is a much older church, Little Metropolis, formally the Church of St. Eleutherios. The church is built on top of the ruins of an ancient temple dedicated to the goddess Eileithyia. It is believed that the church dates to the 13th century, but it has a different design from the other Byzantine churches in Athens, so some believe it could come from an earlier period. It is a very small church, so it did not take a lot of time to go inside and look around.
Stroll the streets of the Plaka District
Plaka is a relatively small district in the older part of the city centre and sits in the shadow of the Acropolis. It is made up of a series of narrow cobbled streets. Most of the streets have been closed to automobile traffic, though you need to look out for a speeding motorcycle or delivery truck. At one time it was the nightclub district, but most of these closed down when the government outlawed amplified music in the neighbourhood in the seventies in an effort to get rid of undesirables. Today, Plaka is full of small, boutique tourist shops and cafes, but it still is full of character and charm.
Athens Flea Market
Not too far from the Spanish Riding School is a small church called St Anne’s Church (Annakirche), which Karen had read good things about.
From the outside, it does not look much but the inside is beautifully decorated in a Baroque style, although the architectural style is Gothic. The church is named after Saint Anne, whose relic (a mummified hand) is exhibited in the church every year on the 26th of July (St. Anne’s Day). The chapel is said to have been in existence since 1320.
After a fire in 1747, Pozzo’s pupil Christoph Tausch transformed it into late baroque using trompe l’oeil techniques. On 25 June 1747 lightning struck the tower of the church, burning down the roof framing but leaving intact the frescos. In 1751, Daniel Gran began the renovation of the interior, blackened by candle smoke. Gran’s frescos were renovated in the 19th century and again in 1969–1970. The 1976 Friuli earthquake, which killed 1,000 people in Northeastern Italy, damaged the church. From 2003 to 2005, the Annakirche was renovated to the state we see today.
Getting around Athens
Getting around Athens, Greece, is relatively straightforward, thanks to a variety of transportation options. Here are the main ways to travel around the city:
1. Public Transport
- Metro: The Athens Metro system is modern, fast, and affordable. It has three main lines (Red, Blue, and Green), and it connects key areas like the airport, central Athens, and major tourist attractions such as the Acropolis and Syntagma Square. The metro runs from early morning until midnight, and it’s the most efficient way to travel long distances within the city.
- Trams: Athens also has a tram system, which is especially useful for getting to the southern suburbs, including the beach areas like Glyfada. Trams are slower than the metro but are a good option for exploring along the coast.
- Buses: There is an extensive bus network that serves both the city center and surrounding areas. Some buses are also more scenic and can take you to places the metro doesn’t reach, like the hills around Athens.
- Trolleybuses: These are similar to buses but are electrically powered and mostly serve the central areas of Athens. They’re a good option for short trips.
- Suburban Railway (Proastiakos): This serves areas outside the city center, including the Athens International Airport (Elefthérios Venizélos) and the port of Piraeus.
2. Taxi
- Taxis are readily available in Athens, and you can easily hail one from the street or use a ride-hailing app like Beat or Uber (though the availability of Uber can vary). Taxis are convenient but can be more expensive than public transport, especially during peak times or for longer distances. Always make sure the meter is running, or agree on a price beforehand.
3. Bikes and Scooters
- Athens has made strides in becoming more bike-friendly, with some bike-sharing programs and dedicated lanes. e-bikes and e-scooters (such as Lime, Circ, or Bolt) are also popular for short trips around the city center. They can be rented via an app and are ideal for exploring the central districts.
4. Walking
- Athens is a very walkable city, particularly in areas like Plaka, Monastiraki, and Syntagma, which are home to many major tourist attractions. The city is full of pedestrianized streets, especially in the historic areas, so walking is a great way to explore at your own pace.
5. Car Rental
- Renting a car in Athens is not typically recommended for getting around the city due to heavy traffic, limited parking, and the narrow streets in the city center. However, if you plan to explore areas outside Athens, such as Cape Sounion or Peloponnese, a rental car could be more useful.
6. Funicular
- The Funicular Railway takes visitors up to the top of Lycabettus Hill, offering panoramic views of Athens. It’s a great way to enjoy the cityscape and reach the hill’s summit if you’re not up for a hike.
Eating out for vegans
Cookoomela Grill, located in the Exarcheia neighbourhood of Athens, Greece, is renowned as the country’s first vegan souvlaki eatery. Established in April 2018 by Antonis Margaritis, his brother Vassilis, and partner Effie Savvidou, the restaurant has gained popularity for its innovative plant-based versions of traditional Greek street food
Mama Tierra is a vegan restaurant and street food establishment in Athens, Greece, offering a diverse menu inspired by global cuisines. The name “Mama Tierra” translates to “Mother Earth” in Spanish, reflecting their commitment to fresh, healthy, and cruelty-free dishes.
Veganaki is a vegan and gluten-free restaurant located at 38 Athanasiou Diakou, Athens, Greece. They offer a variety of Mediterranean-inspired dishes, including wraps, salads, pizzas, and traditional specialties like moussaka and pastitsio. The restaurant is open daily from 8:00 AM to 11:00 PM.
- Vegan Beat is a renowned vegan restaurant located at Perikleous 56 in Athens, Greece. Situated near Syntagma and Monastiraki squares, it offers a cosy atmosphere for both locals and tourists.
The best time to visit
The best time to visit Athens depends on your preferences, but generally, spring (March to May) and fall (September to November) are ideal for most travelers. Here’s why:
Spring (March to May)
- Weather: Mild and pleasant, with temperatures ranging from 15°C to 25°C (59°F to 77°F).
- Crowds: Fewer tourists compared to summer, allowing you to enjoy sites like the Acropolis and Plaka without long queues.
- Nature: Athens is adorned with blooming flowers, and the surrounding hills are lush.
Fall (September to November)
- Weather: Warm and comfortable, especially in September and October, with temperatures around 20°C to 28°C (68°F to 82°F).
- Crowds: Tourists begin to thin out after the peak summer season.
- Events: Autumn often hosts cultural events, including music and arts festivals.
Summer (June to August)
- Pros: Long daylight hours and bustling nightlife.
- Cons: Extremely hot, with temperatures often exceeding 35°C (95°F). Major tourist attractions can be crowded.
Winter (December to February)
- Pros: Fewer tourists and lower prices for accommodation. A great time for budget travelers.
- Cons: Cooler weather (10°C to 15°C or 50°F to 59°F) and occasional rain.
For a perfect mix of pleasant weather, manageable crowds, and cultural experiences, aim for April, May, September, or October.
Where to stay
For tourists in Athens, the best areas to stay are Plaka, Syntagma, Monastiraki, and Koukaki as they are centrally located, close to major historical sites like the Acropolis, offer a vibrant atmosphere with many restaurants and shops, and are considered safe for visitors.
Key points about these areas:
- Plaka:The oldest part of Athens, with charming narrow streets, traditional tavernas, and souvenir shops.
- Syntagma:A central square with a more modern feel, close to the Parliament building and good access to public transport.
- Monastiraki:Lively area with a mix of traditional and modern shops, great for street food and people watching.
- Koukaki:A slightly quieter option with a local vibe, still close to the Acropolis and with good dining options.
1. Mid Range: Plaka Hotel
The Plaka Hotel is a 3-star superior accommodation situated in the historic Plaka neighborhood of Athens, Greece. Its prime location places guests within walking distance of major attractions such as the Acropolis, Syntagma Square, and the Monastiraki flea market. The hotel offers 71 elegantly decorated rooms, many featuring balconies with views of the Acropolis, Plaka, or Lycabettus Hill. Amenities include air conditioning, minibars, safes, and complimentary Wi-Fi. Guests can enjoy a rich American and Greek breakfast buffet each morning. A highlight of the hotel is its rooftop bar, providing breathtaking views of the Acropolis and the city. The 24-hour reception staff are available to assist with travel services and day trips around Athens.
2. Luxury – The Athenaeum
This 5-star establishment is situated at 4 Vouliagmenis Avenue & Kallirois Street, Athens, GR 11743. It offers elegantly designed rooms and suites, each uniquely furnished to provide a refined experience for both leisure and business travelers. Guests can enjoy Mediterranean cuisine at the Pasithea Rooftop Bar Restaurant, which provides panoramic city views. Additional amenities include an outdoor jacuzzi, a fitness room, and various wellness treatments.
3. Budget – Phaedra Hotel
The Phaedra Hotel is a budget-friendly accommodation located in the historic Plaka district of Athens, Greece. Situated at the foot of the Acropolis, it offers guests convenient access to major attractions, including the Parthenon and the Acropolis Museum.
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