The old town of Kos is a charming maze of narrow streets, historic ruins, and traditional whitewashed buildings, reflecting the island's rich history and cultural heritage.
Greece: Santorini
Santorini is one of the most iconic and beautiful islands in Greece, renowned for its breathtaking views, unique architecture, and vibrant sunsets. Here’s an overview of what makes Santorini so special:
Geography and Location
- Location: Part of the Cyclades group in the Aegean Sea, southeast of mainland Greece.
- Volcanic Origins: Santorini is a volcanic island formed by a massive volcanic eruption around 1600 BCE. This eruption created the island’s distinctive crescent shape and caldera, a submerged volcanic crater.
Key Towns
- Fira: The island’s capital, known for its whitewashed buildings, vibrant nightlife, and panoramic views of the caldera.
- Oia: Famous for its sunsets, picturesque alleys, and blue-domed churches. It’s a top spot for photographers and romantics.
- Imerovigli: Often referred to as the “balcony to the Aegean,” this village offers a quieter, upscale ambiance with spectacular views.
- Pyrgos: A traditional village inland, less touristy, with charming narrow streets and historical charm.
Attractions
- The Caldera: Offers stunning views of the sea and neighboring islands. Many activities, like sailing tours, are centered around this geological marvel.
- Red Beach: A striking beach with red volcanic cliffs and sand.
- Ancient Akrotiri: An archaeological site of a well-preserved Minoan city buried by the volcanic eruption.
- Santorini Wineries: Known for Assyrtiko wine, the island’s volcanic soil provides a unique taste profile to its wines.
- Hot Springs: Near the volcanic islands of Nea Kameni and Palea Kameni, accessible by boat.
A trip to Oia
Having spent our first day close to home we decided to explore further afield in Santorini. From the patio outside our cottage, we have a lovely view of the main towns of Santorini, Fira (Thera) and Oia, so we thought we’d go and visit both.
The plan was to catch the bus from Kyrgos into Fira, and from there take the bus to Oia which lies 12km away from Fira on the northern tip of the Caldera.
The buses on Santorini are not reliable or very frequent, so to maximise our chances of getting aboard one we walked to the Kyrgos’ main square where there is a bus stop. Encouragingly there were several other people waiting. When the bus arrived, it was full, and no seats were spare.
Fortunately, we did not have far to go to reach Fira.
When we arrived at the central bus station in Fira things were somewhat chaotic, with people and buses everywhere. Most of the people here were like us tourists without a clue as to what to do and where to go. Finally, we found the bus that went to Oia and climbed aboard. The good thing about starting at the bus station was this time we got a seat.
The journey to Oia was about 30 minutes and went up and over the peaks of the caldera. To Karen’s dismay along the route, there were several sections of winding roads with steep drop-offs.
The bus dropped us off and we began to walk. Most of the streets of Oia are pedestrianised, which is just as well as they are very narrow and packed with tourists. The small town is the most picturesque in Santorini, the downside is that it attracts hordes of tourists – literally by the busload. Santorini is a popular destination for cruise ships which have thousands of passengers that can all descend at once and fill a small town like a tsunami.
Oia is undoubtedly stunning with its white buildings with blue windows and doors clinging to the edge of cliffs, but for us, it was just too busy. There are a few places, where you get views of some of the churches with the iconic blue domed roofs where people actually queue up for a long time to get the photograph. In the village, there are some shops that rent out long-flowing dresses so you can try and get that perfect Instagram photo. Not our scene at all!
We tried to get off the beaten track and avoid some of the tourist traffic, but there were not that many options in such a tiny place. Finally, we reached the end point of Oia, where there was a small, ruined castle that was empty of tourists. It was nice to escape the crowds and get some unobscured photographs.
On the way back we took a different path through the village which was less frenetic.
Exploring Fira
Fira (also spelt Thira) is the vibrant capital of Santorini, one of Greece’s most iconic islands. Situated on the western edge of the island, Fira offers breathtaking views of the caldera, formed by a volcanic eruption thousands of years ago, and the Aegean Sea.
Fira is much more spacious than Oia, so there is room to spread out. We followed the paths that wound their way up into the town. Whilst Fira is not as ‘pretty’ as Oia, it is still a nice town to explore with some interesting streets and quaint shops. We got to a high point with some lovely views down into the caldera and the town of Fira below. The town continued beyond, but we decided to make our way down toward the bus station.
Kyrgos – Small but perfectly formed
Kyrgos is one of the most traditional villages left on Santorini, but it is still quite touristy, with the occasional small tour group passing through. To get to the centre of the village was only a 5-minute walk and we decided to take the side roads rather than the main road, which gets quite busy with cars, buses, and ATVs.
Once in the village, there were countless small passageways that wound their way among the white houses of Kyrgos. The doors and window frames were mostly painted in the blue of the Greek flag or occasionally a green-blue colour. Among the houses were many tiny churches, some of which had the distinctive blue domes of the Greek islands and little bell towers with two or three small bells. Large amounts of bright pink bougainvillaea added an additional splash of colour. It was stunning.
We made our way through the village’s passages up to the pinnacle of the village where there is a viewing platform with an almost 360-degree. From there we wound our way down the hill, where we decided to stop at a small café for a smoothie with lovely views over Kyrgos’ rooftops.
Back down towards the village centre there were several gift and craft shops with very high-quality goods – if we had room for gifts then we’d probably have filled a suitcase with stuff.
Eventually, we arrived at the village square which is more of a lozenge than a square. Around the square, there are several cafes and restaurants, most of which were expensive, but we found a small café that specialised in gyros. The only other people in the café were locals, which we love. The café owner was lovely and made us a vegetarian gyro.
The southern town of Akrotiri
We explored the northern end of Santorini the previous day, this time we were heading south to the village of Akrotiri. Having used the public bus, the day before we thought we’d try it again! Karen had read on a website the bus came at 9:30 am but when we went to the bus stop the timetable said it left at 10:00 am from Fira. So, we were going to have to wait around for a bit. Fortunately, it was a nice day to be hanging around.
When the bus arrived, it was totally packed. We just about pushed our way into the bus at the middle door of the bus which left us down in the deep footwell wedged against the door and squeezed against some fellow passengers above us. At this point, Karen’s claustrophobia kicked in and she had a mild panic attack. Karen managed to squeeze herself up a little which made her feel a little better. As the bus went along some people got on and off and things did improve.
After about 30 minutes we pulled up in Akrotiri and everyone piled off. We immediately headed across the road to the archaeological site of Akrotiri.
Akrotiri is the site of a Cycladic Bronze Age settlement which was destroyed in the Theran eruption sometime in the 16th century BCE and buried in volcanic ash, which preserved the remains of fine frescoes and many objects and artworks. The earliest evidence for human habitation of Akrotiri can be traced back as early as the fifth millennium BCE when it was a small fishing and farming village. By the end of the third millennium, the community had developed and expanded significantly forming trading partnerships around the Aegean Sea. Its strategic position on the main shipping route between Cyprus and Minoan Greece was an important factor in the community’s growth.
The earliest excavations on the island of Santorini were conducted by French geologist F. Fouque in 1867 after some local people found old artefacts at a quarry. After that followed other minor excavations but it was not until 1967 that a major excavation by Spyridon Marinatos revealed the full value of this site. Marinatos’s choice of the site proved to be correct and just a few hours into the excavation, the remains of the buried city began to be discovered. Some of the houses that were uncovered were two and three storeys high and contained beautiful frescos. As the inhabitants left in a hurry, many pots and other artefacts were left in their wake.
A new modern roof structure, meant to protect the site, collapsed just before its completion in 2005, killing one visitor. No damage was caused to the antiquities. As a result, the site was closed to visitors until April 2012. Excavations were stopped in 2005 due to lack of funding but were resumed in 2016 with new sponsorship support.
The whole of the archaeological site is covered by one huge building to protect it from the elements. It has some very sturdy pillars to hold up the roof, which presumably is a result of the roof collapse back in 2005. Also, Santorini is on the edge of a volcano which is still active, and the area is prone to earthquakes – so things need to solid just in case. There is a suspended pathway that leads around the site so visitors can peer down into the ruins – a second trail at ground levels leads through part of the site so you can get up close, but it was temporarily closed due to staffing levels. Visitors cannot be trusted to enter without a guide. It is sad that you cannot trust people to behave themselves. Even when we were there some of the guests were leaning over the metal fence which runs along the pathway – primarily to stop people from falling into the ruins – and trying to touch things, resulting in them getting a loud rebuke from the staff.
At the end of the walkway, there was a fascinating short video that showed an animated representation of what the settlement at Akrotiri would have looked like back before the 16th-century BCE eruption.
We loved looking around the site – it was very impressive
Red Beach
Not too far from the archaeological site is one of Santorini’s most famous beaches, the Red Beach. It is so-called because the erosion of the red volcanic cliffs that loom over it has left a red sandy deposit on the beach. Sadly, the sand tends to erode so there is not much of it in evidence today.
From the Akrotiri village, there is a trail that leads to the beach which is about 500m long and is quite rocky and narrow. It is not too hard to negotiate but it gets busy with tourists. The last section is the hardest as it is steeper with some bigger rocks to come down from, not a problem for my long legs, but tougher for Karen.
Not surprisingly the beach was very busy. The tide was in so there was only a narrow strip of beach. A rope had been laid to separate the area where you could lie, which was only about 10 metres deep, from the section you could walk along. I guess they didn’t want people lying too close to the cliff in case of rock falls – although you could walk right up to the cliff. The part of the beach where people were sunbathing was covered in something that looked like coarse wood chips, but I am sure it wasn’t really wood chips, and it did not look very attractive. Space was of a premium as people had put their towels down very close to each other. All in all, none of this was very appealing to us, so we only stayed for a very short time before heading back.
Planning your visit to the Acropolis
Planning a visit to the Acropolis in Athens is an exciting experience, as it is one of the most iconic and historically significant landmarks in the world. Here’s a guide to help you make the most of your visit:
1. Best Time to Visit
- Avoid peak summer (July and August): These months can be extremely hot, with temperatures often exceeding 35°C (95°F). If possible, visit during the shoulder seasons of April-May or September-October for more pleasant weather and fewer crowds.
- Morning or Late Afternoon: Arriving early (before 9 AM) or later in the afternoon (after 4 PM) is ideal to avoid large crowds and to enjoy cooler temperatures.
2. Acropolis Tickets
- Admission Fee: As of now, the general admission ticket costs about €20, which gives you access to the Acropolis site, including the Parthenon, the Temple of Athena Nike, the Erechtheion, and other monuments.
- Combination Ticket: You can also buy a combination ticket for €30-35, which includes entrance to other important archaeological sites in Athens, such as the Ancient Agora, the Roman Agora, and the Temple of Olympian Zeus.
- Free Admission Days: The Acropolis has several free admission days, including on certain national holidays (e.g., 6 March, 18 May, and the first Sunday of each month from November to March).
- Online Booking: It’s a good idea to buy tickets online in advance to skip the long queues.
3. Things to See
- The Parthenon: The main attraction and symbol of Ancient Greece. It was dedicated to the goddess Athena and is an architectural masterpiece.
- The Temple of Athena Nike: A small, elegant temple dedicated to the goddesses Athena and Nike (Victory).
- The Erechtheion: Famous for its unique asymmetrical structure and the Porch of the Caryatids, where statues of women serve as columns.
- The Odeon of Herodes Atticus: A beautiful Roman theatre still used for performances today.
- The Acropolis Museum: Not on the hill itself but located nearby, this museum houses many of the Parthenon’s original sculptures and other artefacts.
4. Guides and Tours
- Guided Tours: Consider taking a guided tour for a deeper understanding of the site’s history and significance. You can book a private or group tour, either in person or via an audio guide.
- Audio Guides: Available for rent at the entrance or as an app download. These are very useful if you prefer to explore on your own but still want informative commentary.
Getting to and around Santorini
Santorini, Greece, is a popular travel destination known for its stunning sunsets, whitewashed buildings, and vibrant blue domes. Here’s a guide to getting to and around Santorini:
Getting to Santorini
By Air:
- Santorini International Airport (JTR): The island has an airport that receives both domestic and international flights.
- Flights from Athens: A 45-minute flight from Athens’ Eleftherios Venizelos Airport is the most common route.
- International Flights: Seasonal flights are available from major European cities during the high season (April to October).
By Ferry:
- From Athens (Piraeus or Rafina Port):
- High-speed ferries: ~4-5 hours.
- Conventional ferries: ~7-8 hours.
- From Other Cycladic Islands: Regular connections to islands like Mykonos, Naxos, and Paros.
- Ports in Santorini: Ferries arrive at Athinios Port.
- From Athens (Piraeus or Rafina Port):
By Cruise Ship:
- Santorini is a popular stop for Mediterranean cruises. Ships usually anchor in the caldera, and passengers are tendered to Fira by small boats.
Getting Around Santorini
By Bus:
- The public bus system (KTEL) is efficient and affordable.
- Main routes connect Fira with Oia, Kamari, Perissa, Akrotiri, and the port.
- Buses run more frequently in summer.
By Car or Scooter:
- Car Rentals: Renting a car is ideal for exploring remote areas. Roads can be narrow and winding.
- Scooter/ATV Rentals: A popular option, especially for adventurous travellers. Helmets are required.
By Taxi:
- Taxis are available but limited. It’s best to book in advance during peak times.
- Taxi stands are located in Fira and at the airport and port.
By Boat:
- Boat tours around the caldera are a highlight. Options include:
- Sunset cruises.
- Excursions to the volcanic islands and hot springs.
- Water taxis connect some beaches.
- Boat tours around the caldera are a highlight. Options include:
On Foot:
- Santorini’s towns (Fira, Oia, Imerovigli) are walkable, with picturesque paths.
- The Fira to Oia hiking trail offers stunning views of the caldera.
Cable Car:
- Connects the Old Port of Fira with the town. A scenic option for cruise passengers.
The best time to visit
The best time to visit Santorini, Greece, depends on what you’re looking for: fewer crowds, pleasant weather, or peak season excitement. Here’s a breakdown:
1. Best Weather (April to October):
- May, June, September, and October: These months offer warm temperatures (around 20-30°C or 68-86°F), sunny skies, and calm seas, making them ideal for swimming, hiking, and sightseeing.
- July and August: Peak summer months with the hottest weather (up to 35°C or 95°F). Ideal for beachgoers, but also the busiest and most expensive.
2. Fewer Crowds (April, Early May, Late October):
- Shoulder seasons in April-May and October are perfect if you want a quieter experience. Temperatures are cooler, around 15-25°C (59-77°F), but still pleasant for outdoor activities.
- Many attractions and restaurants are open, and prices for accommodations are more reasonable than in peak summer.
3. Budget-Friendly (November to March):
- Santorini’s low season. It’s cooler (10-15°C or 50-59°F), and some businesses may close. However, it’s the least crowded and offers a more authentic, local experience.
- Great for hiking and exploring the island’s charming villages without tourist throngs.
Overall Recommendation:
For a balance of weather, activities, and affordability, late May to mid-June or early September to mid-October are the best times to visit. These months offer warm weather, fewer crowds, and plenty of open attractions.
Where to stay
1. Mid Range: Abelonas Village
Abelonas Village is a charming accommodation located in the traditional village of Megalochori on Santorini island, Greece. Situated approximately 300 meters from the Caldera Cliffs, it offers guests a serene environment with convenient access to the island’s attractions.
Abelonas Village is conveniently located near a bus stop (80 meters away), providing easy access to Fira Town, which is a 10-minute bus ride away. The Santorini Airport and Athinios Port are both a 10-minute drive from the property. Notable sites such as the Red and Black Beaches and the Akrotiri archaeological excavation are within 2.5 kilometres. Free private parking is available on-site for guests.
2. Luxury – The Noverian Bios Santorini Vegan
The Noverian Bios Santorini is a five-star vegan boutique hotel located in Fira, Santorini, Greece. This adults-only retreat emphasizes sustainability and compassionate living, offering a luxurious experience that aligns with eco-conscious values.
Accommodations: The hotel provides a variety of rooms and suites, each designed with comfort and elegance in mind. Options include:
- Comfort Rooms: Cozy spaces with private balconies or pool views, ideal for couples seeking tranquility.
- Premium Sea View Rooms: Luxurious rooms featuring sea views and private outdoor hot tubs, perfect for relaxation.
- Suites: Spacious accommodations such as the Loft Style Suite with panoramic views and the One Bedroom Sea View Earth Suite equipped with a private hot tub and indoor hammam.
3. Budget – Afrodete Hotel
Afrodete Hotel is a charming, family-run establishment located in Firostefani, Santorini, Greece. Designed in traditional Cycladic style, the hotel offers guests a serene environment with majestic views of the Aegean Sea and the island of Anafi.
Situated in a tranquil area, Afrodete Hotel is just 100 meters from the Petros Nomikos Conference Center and the Caldera promenade, and only 500 meters from the center of Fira town. This prime location allows guests to easily explore Fira’s attractions, shops, and nightlife, while enjoying a peaceful retreat.
More to Explore
