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Greece: Kos – Exploring the old town

Tree of Hippocrates

It took us about 30 minutes to walk from our resort to reach the centre Kos’ Old Town. The first place we stumbled upon was the Tree of Hippocrates, under which, according to legend, Hippocrates of Kos (considered the father of medicine) taught his pupils the art of medicine. Paul of Tarsus purportedly taught here as well. The current tree is only about 500 years old but maybe a descendant of the original tree which allegedly stood there 2400 years ago, in Hippocrates’ time. The tree has become hollowed out over the years, and some branches are supported by metal scaffolding.

The Agora of Kos

Close to the Tree of Hippocrates is the ancient agora (marketplace). It is a large excavation area that includes several temples, baths, and houses with remaining mosaics, columns, and other pieces of construction belonging to several periods have been found. It had a massive wall made of large stones, which was 80 metres long by 2.5 metres high.

The Ancient Agora of Kos is one of the largest markets that have been excavated so far in Greece. It was built in the 4th century B.C. at a short distance from the harbor. When the main town of Kos was recognized as an important administrative center (after 366 B.C.), important administrative buildings and temples were also built in the area of the port. The Agora was the ‘heart’ and financial center of the island with streets, shops, workshops and altars.

The site was excavated by the Italian Archaeological School during the reconstruction of the city some years after the devastating earthquake of 1933. The ancient market consisted of three main arcades: East, West and North, which met in the middle in a large inner courtyard. The North arcade united the market with the city walls, while the other two included various shops serving the daily needs of the citizens.

The island was frequently hit by earthquakes and the city had to be reconstructed every time. The different materials used each time have helped archaeologists divide the constant reconstruction in three phases. The earthquake of the 6th or 5th century BC did not leave traces in the city’s construction history. In 366 BC and throughout the 3rd century, the buildings were constructed with “amygdalopetra” (travertine) and limestone. The next period is the characterized by the use of marble. The 2nd century BC is known for the monumental buildings which endowed the city with the element of grandiosity. The reconstruction that followed the earthquake of 142 AD (The reign of Antoninus Pius) changed the appearance of the city. Masonry was developed and the baths, the theater and the stadium were built. The earthquake of 469 AD (The reign of Leo I) was important as it signifies the end of the ancient city and the beginning of the early Christian period. 

The Agora also has some ruins of an Aphrodite Shrine, as well as a small temple, seemingly in honour of Hercules, and a Christian Basilica dating from the 5th century; all of them facing north. Some other findings are the mosaic floors of some precincts, which date from the 3rd century BCE and a statue of Hippocrates.

Kos Castle

One of the most distinctive structures in Kos Town is the castle, which is formally known as Kos Nerantzia Castle. It faces the Halikarnassos Castle (Saint Peter Fortress) which is situated opposite it on the Turkish coast, with which it collaborated to control the strategic straits between Kos and Turkey. The Neratzia Castle, in its present form, was built by the Knights of St John of Jerusalem who ruled the island from 1314 to 1522. When H. Schlegelholtz was Commander of the island (1386-1412), the Knights of St. John undertook major military works that fortified the perimetrical city wall, the fortress and the great strongholds or ramparts, enlarging and strengthening the fort on every side. The perimetrical wall of the city was built from 1391 to 1396 with every kind of ancient material found in the area.

Fortification works of the outer fortress of Nerantzia were undertaken from 1498 onwards, due to the intensification of Turkish offensive activities. Between 1505 and 1508, the western side of the castle facing the harbour was constructed, whereas the bridge which connects the outer fortress with Hippocrates’ Plane Tree Square must have been constructed between 1500 and 1510.

There is not much left of the castle to look at today apart from the walls and the towers – much is else in disrepair. Still, it was free to go in and there were a lot of artefacts scattered around the grounds to look at and the walls still have inscriptions and the coats of arms of the knights who once called this home.

Exploring Kos Old Town

The Old Town of Kos, is a charming and historic area filled with narrow, winding streets, traditional whitewashed houses, and a lively atmosphere. It is a place where the island’s rich history meets modern life, offering visitors a glimpse into the past with its ancient ruins, Ottoman and Italian-era architecture, and vibrant market squares. Strolling through the Old Town, you will find a variety of small shops selling local handicrafts, spices, and souvenirs, as well as cozy tavernas serving traditional Greek dishes.

In addition to its historical charm, the Old Town of Kos is a cultural hub where both locals and tourists gather to experience the island’s warm hospitality. The bustling Eleftherias Square, with its impressive Defterdar Mosque and Italian-era buildings, serves as a focal point for social and cultural events. 

Getting to and around Kos

Getting to Kos, Greece

By Air

  • Kos International Airport (KGS): The island is served by Kos International Airport (Hippocrates), which has flights from Athens and Thessaloniki year-round and seasonal international flights from various European cities.
  • From the Airport to Kos Town:
    • Bus: The KTEL bus runs from the airport to Kos Town (around 40 minutes).
    • Taxi: Available outside the terminal (approx. €35-€40 to Kos Town).
    • Car Rental: Multiple car rental agencies operate at the airport.

By Ferry

  • From Athens (Piraeus): Ferries from Piraeus to Kos take around 9-12 hours.
  • From Nearby Islands: Regular ferries run from Rhodes, Kalymnos, Nisyros, and other Dodecanese islands.
  • From Turkey: Daily ferries connect Kos with Bodrum, Turkey (approx. 30 minutes).

Getting Around Kos

Public Transport

  • Buses: The island has a reliable bus system run by KTEL, connecting Kos Town with major villages, beaches, and tourist spots like Kefalos, Tigaki, and Mastichari.
  • Ferries & Boats: Small boats operate routes to nearby islands and coastal destinations.

Taxis

  • Taxis are available throughout the island, but they can be expensive for longer trips. There are taxi ranks in Kos Town and at the airport, and you can also call for a taxi.

Car, Scooter & Bicycle Rentals

  • Car Rentals: Available in Kos Town, the airport, and major resorts. A car is a good option for exploring the whole island.
  • Scooters & ATVs: Popular among tourists and available for rent at reasonable rates.
  • Bicycles: Kos is very bike-friendly, with dedicated cycling lanes in Kos Town and beyond.

Walking

  • Kos Town is compact and walkable, and many tourist sites are within easy walking distance.

The best time to visit

The best time to visit Kos, Greece, depends on your preferences for weather, crowds, and activities. Here’s a breakdown:

1. Best Overall Time: May – June & September – October

  • Weather: Warm (23-30°C / 73-86°F), pleasant sea temperatures.
  • Crowds: Fewer tourists than peak summer.
  • Activities: Perfect for sightseeing, hiking, and relaxing on the beach without extreme heat.

2. Best for Beach & Nightlife: July – August

  • Weather: Hot (30-35°C / 86-95°F), perfect for swimming.
  • Crowds: Peak tourist season, especially in Kos Town and Kardamena.
  • Activities: Lively beach parties, festivals, and a vibrant nightlife scene.

3. Best for Budget & Tranquility: April & November

  • Weather: Mild (18-22°C / 64-72°F), but cooler sea temperatures.
  • Crowds: Very few tourists, peaceful atmosphere.
  • Activities: Great for exploring ancient ruins, nature, and authentic Greek culture.

4. Avoid: December – March

  • Weather: Cool (12-17°C / 54-63°F), occasional rain.
  • Crowds: Very quiet, many hotels and attractions closed.
  • Activities: Best for budget travelers and those seeking solitude.

Where to stay

1.  Mid Range: Maritina Hotel

Maritina Hotel is a 3-star establishment located in the heart of Kos Town, Greece. Open year-round, the hotel is renowned for its warm hospitality and friendly staff. It features 81 recently renovated rooms equipped with amenities such as air conditioning, mini-bars, flat-screen televisions, and private furnished balconies.

Guests can enjoy various facilities, including a rooftop pool, sun terrace, and a café-bar-restaurant overlooking nearby archaeological sites. The hotel also offers a fully equipped conference room suitable for meetings and events.

Its central location provides easy access to local attractions like Kos Castle and the Ancient Agora, as well as numerous shops, cafes, and restaurants within walking distance.

2. Luxury – D’ Andrea Lagoon All Suites

D’ Andrea Lagoon All Suites is a luxury adults-only resort located in Marmari on the island of Kos, Greece. The resort features 80 elegantly designed suites, many of which offer direct swim-up access to a central lagoon-style pool. Accommodations are equipped with plush beds, cozy sofas, large walk-in showers, and soaking bathtubs. Floor-to-ceiling windows and terraces provide serene views of the lagoon pool.

The resort offers a variety of dining options, including a restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine, as well as bars and lounges for guests to enjoy. Additional amenities include a fitness center, private beach area, and a range of leisure activities such as cycling and tennis.

3. Budget – Olympia Hotel

The Olympia Hotel is a 2-star, family-run establishment centrally located in Kos Town, Greece. Situated just 100 meters from the main square, it offers guests convenient access to local shops, cafes, and the nearest beach, which is approximately a 5-minute walk away.

Accommodations and Amenities:

  • Rooms: The hotel features air-conditioned rooms, each equipped with a private balcony, TV, refrigerator, and en-suite bathroom with a shower.

bathrooms include free toiletries and a shower.

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