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France: Paris – The Louvre Museum

🏰 The Louvre — A Palace, a Fortress, and a Whole Lot of Art

The Louvre is one of those places that genuinely defies easy description. It started life as a fortress back in the late 12th century — built around 1190 by King Philippe II as a defensive structure on the banks of the Seine. Over the centuries it evolved into a royal palace, home to French kings from Charles V in the 1300s right through to Louis XIV, who famously upped sticks and moved the court to Versailles in 1682. It sat largely empty after that until the Revolutionary government opened it as a public museum in 1793 — making it one of the oldest public art museums in the world. And today? It is consistently one of the most visited museums on the entire planet, regularly pulling in somewhere north of eight or nine million visitors a year before the pandemic knocked everything sideways.

We had both visited before, separately, but that was well over 30 years ago — back in the early 1990s when you could still just rock up and wander in without any of the faff that comes with modern tourism. So we decided it was high time we went back and had a proper look at the place with fresh eyes. Would we see the Louvre in a new light? There was only one way to find out.

🎟️ Booking Tickets and Getting There Early

Now, here is the thing about the Louvre in summer — it gets absolutely rammed. Like so many of the world’s great tourist attractions, the Covid-19 pandemic rather changed the way these places manage their visitor numbers, and since reopening in 2021, the Louvre has moved entirely to a timed entry ticket system. You will need to book online in advance, full stop. No showing up on the day and hoping for the best.

Go for the earliest slot you can possibly get. The Louvre opens at 9am and those first entry slots are gold dust. Unlike some attractions where a timed ticket means you are in and out within a set window, at the Louvre there is no limit on how long you can stay once you are inside. So what happens in practice is that visitors from earlier slots are still milling around, and by late morning — certainly by early afternoon — the more popular galleries become genuinely very crowded. The rooms around the Mona Lisa, for instance, can feel like a rugby scrum by lunchtime.

One more thing worth saying upfront: you will only scratch the surface in a single day. The Louvre houses somewhere in the region of 35,000 works on permanent display — covering everything from ancient Egyptian antiquities and Greek and Roman sculpture through to the full sweep of European painting up to the mid-19th century. The building itself covers around 72,735 square metres of floor space. Trying to see it all in one visit is a fool’s errand. Go in with a plan, pick your priorities, and accept cheerfully that you will need to come back.

🖼️ The Mona Lisa — Second Time Around

We decided to tackle the Mona Lisa first. We had both seen her before and, if we are being honest, neither of us was particularly bowled over the first time round. But we are reasonable people, so we thought we would give the old girl a second chance. The moment we were through the doors, we made a beeline for the Salle des États — the dedicated gallery on the first floor of the Denon Wing where Leonardo da Vinci’s most famous work has hung since 2005. It is a fair old trek from the main Pyramid entrance, mind you, so get your walking shoes on.

For context, the Mona Lisa — or La Joconde as the French call her — was painted by Leonardo somewhere between 1503 and 1519, and has been in French royal and then state hands ever since Francis I acquired it in the early 16th century. She famously survived a theft in 1911, when an Italian handyman called Vincenzo Peruggia walked out with her tucked under his coat, and she only came back two years later. Since 2005 she has lived behind bulletproof glass in her own purpose-built enclosure, which rather sets the tone for the experience.

By the time we arrived — and we were there early, remember — a fair number of people were already queued and waiting. Somewhat mad, if you think about it, but at least it was organised. Eventually we got to the front, only to find that a considerable number of our fellow visitors were far more interested in photographing themselves in front of the painting than actually looking at it. People posing, phones aloft, selfie sticks deployed — the full works. Very annoying indeed, and we suspect Leonardo would have had something to say about it.

Has our view of the Mona Lisa changed? Honestly, we are not entirely sure. She is smaller than you expect — only 77 by 53 centimetres — and the bulletproof glass and the sheer press of people does not exactly help the experience. But we are glad we went back all the same.

Once we had done our duty by Leonardo, we had a good look around the rest of the Salle des États and the surrounding galleries in the Denon Wing, which are absolutely packed with monumental Italian and French paintings. Our personal taste in art runs rather more contemporary than most of what the Louvre has on offer — we are more Tate Modern than Old Masters, if we are being straight with you — but there is something undeniably impressive about walking through those rooms, even if the sheer scale of it all starts to make your feet ache.

Queues of people waiting to see the Mona Lisa in the Louvre in Paris, France
Queues of people waiting to see the Mona Lisa in the Louvre
Finally reached the Mona Lisa after quite a lot of waiting - The Louvre, Paris
Finally reached the Mona Lisa after quite a lot of waiting
"The wedding feast at Cana" by Veronese near the Mona Lisa in the Louvre, Paris
"The wedding feast at Cana" by Veronese near by the Mona Lisa
Scenes of passion by Campi Antonio ( 1526-1587 ) - the Louvre, Paris
Scenes of passion by Campi Antonio ( 1526-1587 )

🏛️ Venus de Milo — and the Statues You Shouldn’t Walk Past

Greek art from the ancient world is a remarkable thing when you stop and think about it. We are talking about a civilisation that gave us extraordinary sculpture, painting, pottery, coin design, gem engraving — the whole lot — and much of it has survived thousands of years to end up here, under this roof, for us to gawp at on a Tuesday afternoon in Paris.

The undisputed star of the Louvre’s classical collection is the Venus de Milo, and she really does stop you in your tracks. Standing at a shade over six feet eight inches tall, she depicts Aphrodite — the Greek goddess of love and beauty — in that instantly recognisable semi-nude pose, carved from a lustrous white marble with that elegant S-curve that the ancient Greeks were so extraordinarily good at. She is, by any measure, a masterpiece.

The story of how she ended up here is rather a good one. On 8th April 1820, a young Greek farmer by the name of Yorgos Kentrotas was working on the island of Melos — or Milos as it is known today — when he unearthed her in two separate pieces. The upper torso came up first, then the lower half with her legs and hips wrapped in draped marble clothing, and various other fragments were found scattered nearby and later reassembled. So far, so straightforward.

Except here is where it gets interesting. The timing of her discovery was, to put it politely, extremely convenient for the French. Napoleon’s rather enthusiastic habit of helping himself to art from every corner of Europe and beyond had recently caught up with him — following his defeat, a substantial chunk of the Louvre’s collection had been returned to its rightful owners, leaving some rather conspicuous gaps in the classical galleries. Venus de Milo was, in short, the perfect solution. The French moved quickly to acquire her, and went to considerable lengths to ensure that nobody asked too many awkward questions about the circumstances. The result is a globally famous statue with a history that is, to put it charitably, a touch complicated and rather more secretive than the official version might suggest.

She arrived at the Louvre in 1821 and has been captivating visitors ever since — and we were no different.

Of course, Venus is far from the only reason to linger in the Antiquities Galleries. There are extraordinary pieces tucked around every corner, and it is well worth resisting the urge to make a beeline straight for the famous names and simply take your time wandering. You will not be disappointed.

Venus de Milo in the Louvre Museum - Paris, France
Venus de Milo in the Louvre Museum
A hellenic statue in the antiquities gallery
A hellenic statue in the antiquities gallery
Las Pallas de Velletri in the Louvre - Paris, France
Las Pallas de Velletri, a Roman statue of Athena
Black slave statue in the Louvre, Museum, Paris, France
Black slave statue in the Louvre, Museum
The Slave Sculptures – Michelangelo in the Louvre, Paris, France
The Slave Sculptures – Michelangelo

🏺 Near Eastern Antiquities — Old Stuff, Seriously Old Stuff

One of the sections we enjoyed most was the Department of Near Eastern Antiquities, and honestly, it caught us a bit off guard — in the best possible way. This is a vast collection divided into three broad geographical areas: Mesopotamia, Persia, and the Levant — which takes in Lycia, Lydia, Cilicia, Phoenicia, and Cyprus — stretching from the eastern Mediterranean all the way across the Arabian Peninsula and the Black Sea, right out towards India. We are talking about civilisations that were already ancient when the Romans were still in nappies.

The collection is spread across 26 rooms on the ground floor, split between the Sully, Sackler, and Richelieu wings. Give yourself plenty of time here because the sheer quality and variety of what is on display will stop you in your tracks. From intricately carved Assyrian palace reliefs dating back to the 9th century BC, to Persian friezes from the palace of Darius the Great at Susa — there is genuinely breathtaking work around every corner. It is one of those galleries where you keep saying “right, let’s move on” and then finding yourself rooted to the spot in front of yet another extraordinary piece.

🗿 The Interior Sculpture Gallery

If many of the Louvre’s galleries can feel a touch dark and, frankly, a bit cave-like, the Interior Sculpture Gallery is the complete opposite — and what a breath of fresh air it is. The gallery is housed under a magnificent vaulted glass roof, which on a bright sunny day absolutely floods the space with natural light. It is the kind of light that makes marble glow and stone come alive in a way that artificial lighting simply cannot replicate.

The space itself is enormous. The hall was originally built as an open courtyard during the reign of Napoleon III in the mid-19th century, before being enclosed and glazed as part of a major renovation programme. The result is something genuinely spectacular — a soaring, cathedral-like space that gives the sculptures room to breathe and allows you to walk around the larger pieces and take them in properly from every angle.

French medieval and Renaissance sculpture fills the gallery, with works spanning roughly the 12th through to the early 19th century. After the bustle of some of the more popular galleries upstairs, coming down here feels like a bit of a reward — calm, airy, and genuinely rather lovely.

One of the most eye-catching statues in the Gallery are the four captive statues that were taken from the pedestal of the statue in the Place des Victoires, these captives represent the nations defeated by the Treaty of Nijmegen (1679). Each expresses a different reaction to captivity: revolt, hope, resignation, or grief.

The Statue Gallery in the Louvre Museum - Paris, France
The Statue Gallery in the Louvre Museum

Most of the Louvre’s galleries are a bit on the dark and heavy side — grand, certainly, but they can feel somewhat oppressive after a while. The Interior Sculpture Gallery is a completely different kettle of fish. The scale alone is impressive enough, but what really sets it apart is the glass roof flooding the whole space with natural light. On a sunny day it is genuinely beautiful — the kind of place where you find yourself just standing there, looking up, momentarily forgetting you are supposed to be looking at the sculptures.

The four captive statue taken from the pedestal of the statue in the Place des Victoires - The Statue Gallery, The Louvre, Paris, France
The four captive statue taken from the pedestal of the statue in the Place des Victoires

🏺 The Egyptian Galleries

If you have any interest at all in the ancient world, the Egyptian Galleries will stop you dead in your tracks. The Department of Egyptian Antiquities spreads across two floors, and it is genuinely impressive. Down on the lower level, the displays are organised around daily life in ancient Egypt — how ordinary people actually lived, worked, and got on with things along the banks of the Nile thousands of years ago. Head upstairs and the approach shifts to a chronological journey, taking you all the way from prehistory through to the Ptolemaic Period, which ended with the death of Cleopatra in 30 BC.

What makes these galleries particularly special is that the focus is not on Egyptian art for art’s sake — it is on the history and culture of an extraordinary civilisation. And the artefacts on display are nothing short of jaw-dropping. We stood open-mouthed in front of the Sarcophagus of Ramesses III, peered at remarkably well-preserved mummies, and came face to face with the Great Sphinx of Tanis — a colossal granite sphinx that once guarded an ancient temple. Quite something to find sitting in Paris, all things considered.

Planning your visit to the Louvre

    
📍Location Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris, France
🕖Opening Times🌐Website: louvre.fr
 Wednesday – Monday, 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM (closed Tuesdays). Open until 9:45 PM on Wednesdays and Fridays  
📞Phone: +33 (0)1 40 20 53 17📧Email: info@louvre.fr

🎟️ Entry Fees

AdultsUnder 18sUnder 26s (EU residents)First Sunday of Month
€22FreeFreeFree (all visitors)

Other places to visit while in Paris

1. Banks Of The River Seine

Walking along the banks of the Seine is one of the simpler pleasures Paris offers, and it costs nothing. The stretch between the Musée d’Orsay and Notre-Dame is particularly good, passing booksellers with their green metal stalls, bridges with padlocks still fixed to the railings, and a series of views that look much as they do in postcards. The lower quays, closer to the water, are quieter than the roads above and a reasonable place to sit on a warm day. The riverbanks are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which reflects how intact much of the surrounding architecture remains.

The medieval Pont Neuf crossing the river Seine in Paris

2. Musée d’Orsay

The Musée d’Orsay sits in a converted railway station on the south bank of the Seine, and it is one of the best places in the world to see Impressionist and Post-Impressionist painting. Works by Monet, Renoir, Degas, and Van Gogh are spread across several floors, and the building itself — with its great glass roof and ornate clock faces — is genuinely worth looking at. It can get busy, particularly in the middle of the day, so arriving early or booking a timed entry slot in advance tends to make the visit more relaxed. There is a café on the upper level with views over the river, which is a reasonable spot to stop for a coffee.

The main hall gallery - Musee D'Orsay, Paris

3. The Palais Garnier

The Palais Garnier is the older of Paris’s two opera houses, completed in 1875, and its interior is among the most extravagant in Europe. The grand staircase, the foyer, and the auditorium — with its ceiling painted by Marc Chagall in 1964 — are all striking, and the building is open for self-guided visits during the day when performances are not taking place. Attending an actual opera or ballet performance here is a fairly different experience to simply visiting, and tickets range from inexpensive to very costly depending on the seat. The building provided the setting for Gaston Leroux’s novel about the Phantom of the Opera, and there is something in the atmosphere of the basement levels that makes that easy to believe.

The grand staircase at the Palais Garnier, Opera National, Paris, France

4. Palace of Versailles

Versailles is about forty minutes by train from central Paris, and the scale of the place is genuinely difficult to appreciate until you are standing in front of it. The palace itself was the seat of French royal power for more than a century, and the state rooms are extraordinarily decorated, though they are also usually very crowded. The gardens, which stretch out behind the main building for several kilometres, are formal and geometric in the French style and take a good few hours to explore properly. It is worth setting aside a full day rather than trying to fit it into a short afternoon, and bringing something to eat and drink if the weather is good, as the queues for food inside can be long.

5. Château Fontainebleau

Fontainebleau is about an hour south of Paris by train and is noticeably less visited than Versailles, which makes it a quieter option for those who find very large crowds tiring. The château was used by French kings from the twelfth century onwards, and the mixture of architectural styles reflects the many different periods of building and renovation it has undergone. The state apartments are well preserved and the horseshoe-shaped staircase in the main courtyard is one of the most photographed features. The surrounding forest, which is very large, is popular with walkers and climbers and offers a reasonable contrast to a day spent inside a palace. The town of Fontainebleau itself is pleasant and has several good places to eat.

Château de Fontainebleau - Paris, France

Getting to and Around Paris

🚆 Eurostar — The Train Under the Channel

For most UK visitors, the Eurostar is the clear first choice, and for good reason. The service runs from London St Pancras International directly to Paris Gare du Nord in around 2 hours 16 minutes, with up to 18 daily departures. You pass through UK and French border control at St Pancras before departure, so you simply step off at Gare du Nord and go — no queuing at the other end. Door-to-door, it comfortably beats flying once you factor in airport faff.

Standard class fares start from around £39 when booked well in advance (three to four months is ideal). Standard Premier adds an included meal service at your seat, while Business Premier offers full flexibility and lounge access at both ends.

Children under 4 travel free; child fares apply from ages 4 to 11 inclusive.

🌐 www.eurostar.com


✈️ Flying to Paris

Several airlines serve routes between UK airports and Paris, with flights landing at Charles de Gaulle (CDG) to the north-east of the city, or Orly to the south. On paper a flight takes around an hour, but when you add in getting to and from the airport at both ends, security, check-in, and baggage, the total door-to-door time is typically 4.5 to 5.5 hours — often slower than the train. That said, flying can make sense from regional UK airports with direct routes, or if you find particularly low fares.

Bear in mind there is an additional cost to reach central Paris from either airport. Worth checking: www.skyscanner.net


🚌 Coach — The Budget Option

If cost is your top priority, coach is the way to go. Flixbus and BlaBlaCar Bus both operate daily services between London Victoria and Paris, with fares as low as £20 one-way if booked ahead. The trade-off is time — expect around 8 to 10 hours, including the Channel crossing. Modern coaches are air-conditioned and some offer free Wi-Fi. Tickets are flexible and can usually be exchanged up to 15 minutes before departure.

Note that since December 2025, some Paris arrivals and departures use the Pershing bus station at Porte Maillot.

🌐 www.flixbus.co.uk


🚗 Driving and the Channel Crossing

Driving gives you complete flexibility, especially useful if you plan to travel beyond Paris. You have two options for crossing the Channel: Le Shuttle (formerly Eurotunnel), which carries your car through the tunnel from Folkestone to Coquelles near Calais, or a car ferry. The Dover to Calais crossing is the most popular route for Paris-bound drivers. For Le Shuttle, the crossing itself takes around 35 minutes, but plan to arrive at the terminal at least 60 minutes before departure.

🌐 Le Shuttle: www.eurotunnel.com
🌐 Ferry options: www.directferries.co.uk


🏙️ Getting from Charles de Gaulle Airport into Paris

If you fly in, here are your main options:

RER B Train — The most practical option for solo travellers or those travelling light. The train runs direct from two stations within the airport to central Paris stops including Gare du Nord, Châtelet-Les Halles, and Saint-Michel Notre-Dame, taking around 30 to 45 minutes. As of January 2026, a special airport ticket (Ticket Paris Région ↔ Aéroports) costs €14 for adults and must be purchased separately — a standard Metro ticket does not cover the CDG journey. Load it onto a Navigo Easy card or via your smartphone.

Taxi — Flat fares apply from CDG: €56 to the Right Bank, €65 to the Left Bank. The most direct option if you have luggage.

Ride-hailing (Uber, Bolt, Free Now) — Available from designated pickup zones at each terminal. Fares are comparable to taxis but can surge at busy times.

Night buses (Noctilien) — If you arrive after 12:30 AM when trains have stopped, Noctilien buses connect CDG with central Paris. The fare is €8 per person.


🚇 The Paris Métro

The Métro is the backbone of getting around Paris, with 16 lines covering virtually every neighbourhood. It runs from approximately 5:30am to just after 1am (later on weekends). Signs for correspondance guide you between connecting lines within stations — follow them carefully to avoid having to exit and buy a new ticket.

Since January 2025, the ticketing system has been simplified to a flat fare across all central zones, replacing the old Ticket t+. A single Métro-Train-RER ticket now costs €2.55, while a Bus-Tram ticket costs €2.05. Paper tickets are phased out — you’ll need a Navigo Easy card (see below) or a smartphone app.

🌐 www.ratp.fr


🎫 Travel Cards and Passes

Navigo Easy Card — The essential reusable contactless card for most visitors. It costs €2 and you load tickets or passes onto it at station machines. You can add single tickets, a pack of 10 (€16.90), or a day pass (€12.30). The day pass is good value if you’re making five or more journeys in a single day.

Paris Visite Pass — Designed specifically for tourists, this pass offers unlimited travel across all five zones including the airports, for 1, 2, 3, or 5 consecutive days. Prices in 2025/26 range from €30.60 (1 day) to €78.00 (5 days). Children aged 4 to 9 travel at half price. It’s now loaded digitally onto a Navigo Easy card or smartphone rather than issued as a paper ticket. It also comes with discounts at some tourist attractions.

Navigo Découverte Weekly Pass — Worth considering for stays of a week or more. At €32.40 (as of January 2026), it covers unlimited travel across all zones (1–5) from Monday to Sunday. There is a one-off €5 card fee, and you’ll need a passport-sized photo. It runs Monday to Sunday regardless of when you buy it, so purchasing mid-week means you pay for days you may not use.

🌐 www.iledefrance-mobilites.fr


🚌 Paris Buses

The bus network fills the gaps the Métro doesn’t reach, and also gives you something the underground can’t: views. It’s a genuinely pleasant way to get around, especially in good weather, though services are slower during peak hours due to traffic. Bus lines connect all the main arrondissements, and night buses (Noctilien) keep things moving after the Métro closes. The same Navigo Easy card and tickets used on the Métro are valid on buses.


🚤 Batobus — The River Bus

For a more scenic alternative, the Batobus operates as a hop-on, hop-off river shuttle along the Seine, with nine stops beside the city’s most famous landmarks: the Eiffel Tower, Musée d’Orsay, the Louvre, Notre-Dame, Hôtel de Ville, Champs-Élysées, and more. Boats run every 25 to 40 minutes throughout the day. Summer operating hours are typically 10am to 8pm; check the website for seasonal timetables.

Day and two-day passes are available, and it’s a practical way to combine sightseeing with getting from A to B along the river corridor. Audio commentary in multiple languages is included.

🌐 www.batobus.com


🚲 Cycling — Vélib’ Bike Share

Paris has invested heavily in cycling infrastructure, with over 1,000 km of marked bike lanes, and Vélib’ is the city’s well-established bike-share scheme. There are approximately 19,000–20,000 bikes across 1,400–1,800 docking stations. There are two types: standard green bikes (manual) and blue electric-assist bikes.

For occasional visitors, the V-Libre pay-as-you-go option costs €6 to subscribe (valid for a year), then €1 per 30 minutes for green bikes and €3 per 45 minutes for electric blue bikes. Cycling between major sights can actually be faster than taking the Métro — the ride from the Eiffel Tower to the Louvre, for example, takes around 12 minutes along the Seine’s bike lanes versus 30 minutes on public transport.

Use the Vélib’ app to find stations nearby. Avoid peak commuting hours (7–10am and 5–7:30pm) when docks fill up quickly.

🌐 www.velib-metropole.fr


🚕 Taxis and Ride-Hailing

Official Paris taxis are metered and regulated. Flat fares apply for airport journeys (see above). Within the city, fares vary by time of day and zone. Uber, Bolt, and Free Now all operate in Paris, available from dedicated pickup zones at airports and via app throughout the city. Note that ride-hailing prices can surge during busy periods, and sometimes the official taxi works out no more expensive and considerably less hassle.


🚶 Walking

Don’t underestimate Paris on foot. The historic centre is surprisingly compact, and many of the most celebrated sights — the Louvre, Notre-Dame, the Marais, the Seine embankments — cluster close together. Walking between neighbourhoods is often the most rewarding way to explore, and Paris’s streets, squares, and riverside walkways are very much part of the experience themselves. A comfortable pair of shoes will take you further here than almost anywhere else in Europe.

Vegan Dining in Paris

Paris has undergone a remarkable plant-based revolution. Once notorious for its butter-laden pastries and rich meat dishes, the French capital now boasts a thriving vegan scene, with everything from elegant bistros reimagining French classics to casual cafés and vibrant street food carts.


🌙 Wild & The Moon

One of Paris’s most beloved vegan café chains, Wild & The Moon is a lifestyle movement founded in 2016 by a team of chefs, nutritionists, and naturopaths with a mission to make plant-based eating cool, delicious, and accessible. With multiple locations across the city, the cafés have an industrial-meets-greenhouse aesthetic and serve an entirely organic, gluten-free, and plant-based menu. Expect cold-pressed juices, açaí bowls, turmeric lattes, gluten-free banana bread, and inventive seasonal dishes. The menu even features activated charcoal and CBD-infused options for the truly adventurous.

  • Location: Multiple locations across Paris, including 55 Rue Charlot, 75003 (Le Marais flagship)
  • Website: wildandthemoon.fr
  • Phone: +33 1 86 95 40 46
  • Opening Hours:
    • Monday–Friday: 8:00 am–10:30 pm
    • Saturday–Sunday: 9:00 am–10:30 pm
      (Hours vary by location; check the website for your nearest branch)

🥐 VG Pâtisserie

Founded in 2016 by Bérénice Leconte, VG Pâtisserie holds the distinction of being France’s very first fully vegan patisserie. Located in the 11th arrondissement, this beloved bakery-café has made it its mission to prove that the sacred French pastry tradition need not involve a single drop of dairy or egg. From flaky croissants and pain au chocolat to cinnamon rolls, fruit tarts, éclairs, and show-stopping stuffed macarons, VG Pâtisserie consistently dazzles both vegans and devoted omnivores alike. Savoury options, set breakfast meals, and coffee are also available.

  • Location: 123 Boulevard Voltaire, 75011 Paris (near Métro Voltaire)
  • Website: vgpatisserie.fr
  • Phone: +33 9 67 80 13 42
  • Opening Hours:
    • Monday–Tuesday: Closed
    • Wednesday–Friday: 8:00 am–7:00 pm
    • Saturday–Sunday: 8:00 am–5:00 pm

🌱 Jah Jah by Le Tricycle

Born out of Le Tricycle, Paris’s first vegan hot dog food bike, Jah Jah is the full restaurant sibling — an Afro-Caribbean, Rastafarian-inspired eatery in the 10th arrondissement, right in the heart of what locals affectionately call “Veggietown.” Co-founded by Coralie Jouhier and Daqui Gomis, the restaurant takes its name from the Rastafari deity Jah, and the philosophy behind it is “Ital” — the Jamaican practice of eating unprocessed, natural, and plant-based food. The décor mixes reclaimed furniture with crates of fresh vegetables, set to a world music soundtrack. Dishes include BBQ cauliflower wings, tempeh tacos, curried quinoa bowls, and the iconic vegan hot dog piled with guacamole and crispy fried onions. No reservations — arrive early or join the queue.

  • Location: 11 Rue des Petites Écuries, 75010 Paris (Métro Bonne Nouvelle or Château d’Eau)
  • Website: jahjahparis.com
  • Phone: +33 1 46 27 38 03
  • Opening Hours:
    • Monday: 12:00 pm–2:30 pm
    • Tuesday: Closed
    • Wednesday–Saturday: 12:00 pm–2:30 pm and 7:00 pm–10:00 pm
    • Sunday: Closed

🥗 Le Potager du Marais

One of Paris’s most longstanding vegan institutions, Le Potager du Marais has been serving plant-based French cuisine since the early 2000s, originally as a vegetarian restaurant before switching to a fully vegan menu in 2012. Situated in the historic Marais district, the restaurant is intimate and cosy, with stone walls, candlelight, and rustic wooden furnishings. The menu is a love letter to classical French gastronomy reimagined entirely without animal products — think vegan French onion soup, seitan bourguignon, moussaka, crème brûlée, and carrot cake. Ingredients are largely sourced from organic and fair trade suppliers. Booking ahead is strongly advised as the restaurant fills up quickly.

  • Location: 26 Rue Saint-Paul, 75004 Paris (Métro Sully-Morland)
  • Website: lepotagerdumarais.fr
  • Phone: +33 1 57 40 98 57
  • Opening Hours:
    • Monday–Tuesday: Closed
    • Wednesday–Sunday: 12:00 pm–3:00 pm and 7:00 pm–10:30 pm

☁️ Cloud Cakes

A cheerful, bright blue-fronted vegan café and bakery tucked away in the 2nd arrondissement, Cloud Cakes has built a loyal following for its exceptional all-day breakfast and brunch menu. Everything is 100% plant-based — and the pastry selection is seriously impressive, from croissants and pain au chocolat to vegan macarons, mango cheesecake, and red velvet cupcakes. Savoury options include avocado toast topped with pomegranate and balsamic glaze, grilled “cheese” sandwiches, and pancakes. Specialty coffees and oat milk lattes are crafted with care, and the café also caters for nut-free diets. It’s also laptop-friendly, making it a popular spot for digital nomads.

  • Location: 6 Rue Mandar, 75002 Paris (near Métro Sentier)
  • Website: cloudcakes.fr
  • Phone: +33 1 42 33 95 45
  • Opening Hours:
    • Monday–Saturday: 9:00 am–7:00 pm
    • Sunday: 11:30 am–3:30 pm

The Best Time to Visit Paris

🌸 Spring (March–May)

Spring is widely regarded as one of the finest times to visit Paris. Temperatures rise gradually from around 8°C in March to a comfortable 20°C by May, and the city blooms with colour. Parks such as the Jardin du Luxembourg and the Tuileries burst into life, and the legendary cherry blossoms along the Canal de l’Ourcq and in the Parc de Sceaux draw visitors from across the world. Rainfall is moderate, so a light waterproof is advisable, but prolonged downpours are rare. Crowds are noticeably lighter than in summer, particularly in March and April. Easter and the French school holidays in April bring a short surge of visitors, so booking accommodation in advance is wise.

What to Pack: Light layers including a medium-weight jacket, a compact umbrella or packable waterproof, comfortable walking shoes, a light scarf, and one smart-casual outfit for evening dining. Sun cream is worth including for May.


☀️ Summer (June–August)

Summer transforms Paris into a vibrant, bustling city humming with energy. Temperatures range from 23°C to 27°C, though heatwaves can push this well beyond 30°C. The days are long, with daylight stretching past 10 pm. Bastille Day on 14 July brings spectacular fireworks at the Eiffel Tower, while Paris Plages turns the Seine’s banks into urban beaches. Summer is unquestionably the busiest and most expensive season, with lengthy queues and peak hotel prices.

What to Pack: Lightweight, breathable clothing, a wide-brimmed hat, high-SPF sun cream, sunglasses, a reusable water bottle, a compact fan for heatwave days, and comfortable sandals or trainers. A light cardigan is useful for air-conditioned museums and restaurants.


🍂 Autumn (September–November)

Autumn is a true hidden gem in the Parisian calendar. September offers summer warmth without the peak-season crowds (19–22°C), and October dresses the city in russet, gold, and amber. The cultural season resumes in earnest, and Prêt-à-Porter fashion weeks bring a creative buzz in September. November turns cooler (~8°C) but signals the start of the festive build-up. Autumn delivers exceptional value, with hotel prices falling sharply after mid-September.

What to Pack: A versatile mid-layer such as a wool or fleece jumper, a waterproof or trench coat, ankle boots or waterproof walking shoes, a warm scarf, and gloves for November evenings.


❄️ Winter (December–February)

Winter in Paris carries an undeniable romance. December is transformed by Christmas markets, glittering festive lights, and the warm glow of brasserie windows. Major attractions are far less crowded, and hotel rates drop significantly outside the Christmas and New Year period. Temperatures range from 2°C to 8°C, with occasional frosts and rare snowfall. January and February are the quietest months, offering an authentic, unhurried experience of Parisian life.

What to Pack: A warm winter coat, thermal underlayers, waterproof boots with good grip, hat, gloves, warm scarf, and thick socks. Layers are essential, as shops and restaurants are very well heated inside.

🗓️ Overall Best Time to Visit

For most travellers, late spring (April to May) and early autumn (September to early October) represent the sweet spots for visiting Paris. Both offer genuinely pleasant weather, lower crowd levels compared to peak summer, competitive hotel prices, and the city in outstanding scenic form — clothed in fresh spring blossom or autumn gold. If budget is the primary concern, January and February deliver the lowest prices and the shortest queues, with a quiet, intimate version of the city that many find deeply appealing. Summer remains worthwhile for those drawn by long days, outdoor events, and the electric peak-season atmosphere, provided they book well in advance and are prepared for heat and crowds. Ultimately, Paris rewards visitors in every season — the question is simply which version of the city speaks to you most.

Where to Stay in Paris

🏘️ Le Marais (3rd & 4th Arrondissements)

Le Marais blends medieval architecture with a vibrant, cosmopolitan energy. Centred on the magnificent Place des Vosges, its cobbled streets are lined with boutiques, galleries, and superb restaurants. Home to the Musée Picasso and the Jewish Quarter, it is also Paris’s LGBTQ+ heartland. Notre-Dame, the Centre Pompidou, and the Hôtel de Ville are all within easy walking distance, and the Saint-Paul métro puts the whole city within reach.

  • 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟 Upscale — Le Pavillon de la Reine & Spa — A sumptuous five-star retreat hidden behind ivy-clad walls on the Place des Vosges, with elegant rooms, a peaceful garden, and a renowned spa. Book on Booking.com
  • 🌟🌟🌟 Mid-Range — Hôtel Jeanne d’Arc Le Marais — A beloved three-star hotel on a quiet street two minutes from the Place des Vosges, consistently praised for its charming décor, helpful staff, and unbeatable location. Book on Booking.com
  • 🛏️ Budget — MIJE Marais Hostel — A well-regarded hostel set within exceptional historic buildings at the very heart of the Marais, offering clean, spacious rooms and an on-site restaurant at remarkably affordable rates. Book on Booking.com

🎨 Montmartre (18th Arrondissement)

Perched on a hilltop in northern Paris, Montmartre retains a romantic, village-like charm unlike anywhere else in the city. The gleaming Sacré-Cœur Basilica crowns the hill with sweeping panoramic views, while Rue Lepic winds down past café terraces and fromageries. The legendary Moulin Rouge sits at the foot of the hill, and artists still gather at the Place du Tertre. It is bohemian, beautiful, and surprisingly well connected to central Paris by métro.

  • 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟 Upscale — Maison Souquet, Hôtel & Spa — A breathtaking five-star boutique hotel in a restored Belle Époque townhouse steps from the Moulin Rouge, with just 20 intricately decorated rooms, a private spa with pool, and an intimate cocktail bar. Book on Booking.com
  • 🌟🌟🌟🌟 Mid-Range — Terrass” Hotel — A highly regarded four-star hotel in a 19th-century building at the heart of Montmartre, celebrated for its stylish rooms, NUXE spa, and an iconic rooftop restaurant with sweeping Eiffel Tower views. Book on Booking.com
  • 🛏️ Budget — Hôtel Regyn’s Montmartre — A charming and intimate budget hotel right beside the Abbesses métro station and the celebrated “Mur des je t’aime”, offering comfortable rooms, some with wonderful panoramic views across the Paris rooftops. Book on Booking.com

📚 Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th Arrondissement)

Saint-Germain-des-Prés is the intellectual soul of Paris, synonymous with Left Bank elegance and literary culture. The legendary Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots still serve café crème to knowing visitors, while ancient bookshops, prestigious galleries, and fine antique dealers line the boulevards. The Jardin du Luxembourg offers a refined green escape, and both the Musée d’Orsay and the Louvre are within a comfortable stroll. It is sophisticated, safe, and supremely walkable.

  • 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟 Upscale — L’Hôtel — A legendary five-star boutique hotel on the Rue des Beaux-Arts and famously Oscar Wilde’s last home, with 20 individually designed rooms by Jacques Garcia, a subterranean pool and hammam, and a Michelin-recommended restaurant. Book on Booking.com
  • 🌟🌟🌟 Mid-Range — Hôtel Saint Germain — A beautifully appointed three-star hotel in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, offering elegantly furnished rooms, a warm and welcoming atmosphere, and an excellent location within walking distance of the Musée d’Orsay. Book on Booking.com
  • 🛏️ Budget — Welcome Hotel — One of the very few two-star hotels sitting directly on the Boulevard Saint-Germain, this charming property offers authentic Parisian character with exposed beams, comfortable rooms overlooking the lively Rue de Seine, free Wi-Fi, and a daily breakfast buffet — all steps from the Luxembourg Gardens and Notre-Dame. Book on Booking.com

🗼 The 7th Arrondissement (Eiffel Tower & Invalides)

The 7th arrondissement is arguably the best base in Paris for first-time visitors. The Eiffel Tower, the Musée d’Orsay, and the Hôtel des Invalides — with Napoleon’s tomb — are all here, alongside the Champ-de-Mars gardens and the charming pedestrian market street Rue Cler, lined with boulangeries, wine merchants, and fromageries. The area is quiet, safe, and genuinely residential in feel, yet multiple métro lines make the rest of the city easily accessible.

  • 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟 Upscale — Hôtel Montalembert — An iconic five-star Left Bank boutique hotel since 1926, offering 50 elegantly designed rooms steps from the Musée d’Orsay, with exceptional Clefs d’Or concierge service, a spa, and top-floor suites boasting Eiffel Tower views. Book on Booking.com
  • 🌟🌟🌟 Mid-Range — Hôtel Muguet — A beloved family-run three-star hotel on a quiet street between the Eiffel Tower and Les Invalides, consistently praised for its warm staff, charming rooms — some with Eiffel Tower views — and a wonderful glass-ceilinged breakfast room. Book on Booking.com
  • 🛏️ Budget — The 3 Ducks Eiffel Tower by Hiphophostels — Paris’s oldest private hostel, housed in a beautifully restored 18th-century coaching inn, offering colourful rooms, a lively bar and outdoor terrace, free Wi-Fi, and a location within easy walking distance of the Eiffel Tower. Book on Booking.com

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