Helsinki lies in the far south of the country, on a peninsula that is fringed by fine natural harbours and that protrudes into the Gulf of Finland. It is an easily accessible city full of history and all the modern trimmings you expect in a major Scandinavian city.
Finland: Helsinki – Löyly sauna
One of the things I really wanted to try out in Finland was a sauna. After some research, I decided on a famous local sauna called Löyly.
Sauna culture in Finland is an integral part of the lives of the majority of the Finnish population. Sauna culture, which can take place in homes or public places, involves much more than simply washing oneself. In a sauna, people cleanse their bodies and minds and embrace a sense of inner peace. In 2020 UNESCO inscribed Finnish saunas on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Löyly was listed in Time Magazine’s ‘100 Greatest Places in the World’. I am not sure I would place it on such a pedestal, but it is a fantastic place. It is located on a quiet waterfront about one and a half kilometres from central Helsinki. It is in a building made largely from wood and glass. As well as the saunas there is a restaurant that looks out to sea through massive windows. On nice days you can go out and enjoy the large outside deck area.
We hadn’t booked ahead, which is a big mistake for this place, but we were lucky enough to be able to get a two-hour time slot if we waited about 20 minutes. It is quite pricey to go in at €23, which includes towel hire, but as they say ‘when in Rome …’
You can opt to rent a private sauna, but we decided to stick with the public saunas. In the public saunas, you have to wear a swimming costume. There were three saunas. One was a small box on the outside deck of Löyly, which was about 2m by 3m, with one wall made of glass so you could stare out to sea. The temperature in this sauna was very modest. The second sauna was much larger and inside the main building but had two glass walls so you could look out through the building’s slatted wooden outside towards the water. The temperature in here was not too oppressive. The final sauna was windowless and dark, this was the place to go if you like your saunas hot and steamy. Our first time in this sauna there was a man who kept throwing water onto the coals and it got unbearably hot, even for Karen who likes it much hotter than I do. We moved between the various saunas to try them out.
In between the visits to the saunas people would sit outside on the decks, where it was a bit chilly, or to really cool off would take to the sea. Off the deck were two ladders that you could gently lower yourself into the water, or bravely leap out for a full submersion. Karen was nervous at the beginning but eventually, we got into the rhythm of a steamy sauna followed by a dip in the sea – which was absolutely freezing, chilling you to your very bones. We could not take more than a few seconds at a time in the water.
When we arrived, I was not sure we could spend 2 hours in the saunas, but the time went surprisingly fast and by the time we were leaving our two hours were up.
The best time to visit Helsinki
Helsinki, Finland lies within the reach of a humid continental climate, denoted as Dfb under the Köppen climate classification. The geographical position of Helsinki navigates to prolonged and frigid winters accompanied by shorter and moderately warm summers. A particular steadiness in the climatological parameters marks the weather patterns in Helsinki.
The annual flow of temperature lists a low point of -7.4°C (18.7°F) in February, trailing up to a peak of 21.5°C (70.7°F) typically in July. The run of minimum temperatures holds true to a similar pattern, descending to -6.5°C (20.3°F) in January and ambling to 14.2°C (57.6°F) in July. As for precipitation, this northern metropolis sees increased amounts in the warmer months, peaking from 63mm (2.48″) in July to 80mm (3.15″) in August. However, it remains predominantly humid, with an average of 11 rainfall days in May and 20 during December.
Snow in Helsinki is almost a constant companion during the winter months, wherein snowfall measures from 140mm (5.51″) in March to 230mm (9.06″) in February. Sea temperatures remain in a rather cold range throughout the year, pinpointing lowest at 1°C (33.8°F) from January to March and hitting high at a cool 16°C (60.8°F) in August. The earth’s axial tilt decides daylight hours, presenting the shortest days of 6 hours in December and January, and the longest ones of 18 hours in June.
The best time to visit Helsinki
Even though weather permanence takes up the routine in Helsinki, the city’s enthralling charm is best experienced during the summer months. With temperatures rising to a comfortable 21.5°C (70.7°F) high in July and 13.1°C (55.6°F) low in August, the warmer months from June to August also bestow the city with the longest daylight hours. The highest sea temperatures, albeit still cold, can be experienced in August at around 16°C (60.8°F), making these months perfect for embracing outdoor activities and enjoying the archipelago’s scenic beauty.
The worst time to visit Helsinki
The period from November to March witnesses the harshest weather conditions in Helsinki. Not only do temperatures stoop low to -1.3°C (29.7°F) and -4.5°C (23.9°F) in December, but the city also faces heavy snowfall with measurements spiking up to 210mm (8.27″) in January. The icy Baltic Sea also remains at its coldest, oscillating from 1°C (33.8°F) to 3°C (37.4°F). This period also renders shorter daylight hours, diminishing further to 6 hours in December, accompanied by the least amount of sunshine.
Getting around Helsinki
Helsinki has an excellent public transport system (HSL) comprising bus, tram, metro, commuter train and ferry services. With a single ticket you can hop aboard trams, buses, the metro and even the municipal ferry to Suomenlinna. You can even change from one mode of transport to another as long as your ticket is still valid. Single tickets can be purchased using the HSL mobile app or from HSL ticket machines, R-kiosks and other HSL sales points.
A day ticket is handy if you plan to make several journeys during one day or several days. You can buy a ticket for 1–13 days. Day tickets can be purchased using the HSL mobile app or from HSL ticket machines and sales points in Helsinki Central Station. Other sales points include R-kiosks and many shops. One-day tickets (24 hours) can be purchased also from HSL ticket machines; these tickets are printed out and valid immediately upon payment.
The HSL public transport region is divided into four zones identified by the letters A, B, C and D starting from the city centre. Purchase a ticket for all the zones in which you plan to travel. If you plan to travel in zones A, B and C, you will need an AB, BC or ABC ticket, as there are no one-zone tickets for zones A, B and C. The online Journey Planner notifies which ticket you need together with the search results.
Helsinki Card holders can travel free of charge on public transportation depending on their card within zones A/ B or A/B/C.
Walking
Helsinki is a compact city that is easy to explore on foot, as most of the sights are within walking distance. Even in the busy city centre, you are never far away from green areas and the sea.
By bike
Cycling is a fast and easy way of getting around Helsinki. A popular route is the Baana pedestrian and cycling corridor that runs through the centre of Helsinki along a stretch of disused railway line. Baana is part of an impressive 1200-kilometre network of bike paths in Helsinki that makes it easy to get from the Keskuspuisto “Central Park” to the north to the ferry terminals to the south, and from the bustling city centre to the quiet fields and forests in the surrounding countryside – even to the islands of the archipelago.
City bikes
City bikes are a popular and convenient way of getting around the city in summertime. In 2023, there were no less than 4 600 yellow city bikes available in Helsinki and Espoo. The city bike season will continue until the end of October.
By tram
Trams are a convenient way of getting around the city centre. Tram 2 is the traditional sightseeing route, as it passes many points of interest along the way. You can also change into tram 3 at Eläintarha or Auroran sairaala stop and return to the city centre. Other tram routes that are good for sightseeing include 4, which passes many architectural gems, and 6, which is perfect if you are interested in design. Carry a route map with you to help locate all the stops and points of interest.
Single tickets and day tickets can be purchased using the HSL mobile app or from HSL ticket machines, R-kiosks and many other sales points cannot be purchased from the driver on trams. Helsinki Card holders can travel free of charge on all trams.
By metro
Helsinki’s metro network operates from the city centre to Espoo (M1 Kivenlahti/M2 Tapiola) and East Helsinki (M1 Vuosaari/M2 Mellunmäki). To travel from end to end (Kivenlahti to Mellunmäki, the world’s northernmost metro station) you will need an ABC ticket, and the journey takes about 49 minutes. The metro is also a convenient way to get out of the busy city centre and into nature.
Single tickets and day tickets can be purchased using the HSL mobile app or from HSL ticket machines, R-kiosks and many other sales points throughout the city. Helsinki Card holders can travel free of charge on the metro.
By train
Helsinki Region Transport (HSL) operates commuter train services throughout the metropolitan area. Commuter trains depart from and arrive at Helsinki Central Station. Commuter trains are a convenient way to get to Pasila, for example, where Hartwall Arena and the Messukeskus Expo and Convention Centre are located. You can also get to the tranquillity of Rhododendron Park (Alppiruusupuisto) in the Haaga district very quickly by commuter train (A, E, U or P).
Single tickets and day tickets can be purchased using the HSL mobile app or from HSL ticket machines, R-kiosks and many other sales pointsThis link opens in a new browser tab. throughout the city. Tickets cannot be purchased onboard commuter trains. Helsinki Card holders can travel free of charge on all commuter trains.
Trains to the airport
Commuter trains I and P are a fast and convenient way of travelling between the city centre and the airport. The journey takes approximately 30 minutes. From the train station at Helsinki Airport, you can walk directly to your terminal without having to go outside. To get to or from the airport, you will need an ABC ticket.
Eating out for vegans in Helsinki
The range of vegan food in Helsinki’s eateries is impressive and expanding all the time. Numerous completely vegan restaurants and cafés can be found throughout the city, making it easy and convenient for those who want to enjoy vegan food without having to ask and check first.
Brindavan & Bhajan Café
Brindavan & Bhajan Café serves a generous buffet that invites you to savour an Indian-inspired lunch. Choose from a light and fresh selection of salads and spreads, or you can enjoy a hearty lunch with baked potatoes and stews – and everything in between! The price is determined by weight. The flavours vary from mild to fiery, so there is something for everyone in the wide selection.
Kumpulantie 1, Vallila
Bun2Bun hamburgers
That’s right, 100% vegan hamburgers! Bun2Bun has served only vegan burgers since 2018, resulting in a veritable stampede of customers. The restaurant is lcocated on Vaasankatu, where the aforementioned vegan boom began in Helsinki. In addition to the classics, the menu includes spicier originals and specials.
Vaasankatu 13, Kallio
Junk y Vegan
Describing itself unashamedly as a “junk food restaurant”, Junk y Vegan opened near Helsinki Central Station in 2021. It got its inspiration from the unique Finnish phenomenon of “chips and beer vegans”, which encourages people to enjoy good vegan food without worrying about how healthy it is. In addition to burgers, the bar restaurant also serves smaller portions, flatbreads, bowls and a variety of sweets.
Postikuja 2, Kluuvi
Rakastan
Rakastan is an absolute must for visitors in particular, as this café in the heart of the city serves vegan versions of a traditional Finnish delicacy, Karelian pies, filled with potatoes or barley. On top of the pies, you can choose “egg butter”, a favourite among Finns, fish roe and onion in the Swedish style, or pickles with syrup in the Slavic style. The café also serves soup lunches and pastries, and on weekend evenings you can enjoy Finnish tapas with wine. The milieu is beautiful and exudes history.
Mannerheimintie 13B, Etu-Töölö
Magu
Favouring seasonal ingredients and local food, Magu is a laid-back fine dining restaurant that invites everyone to try its exquisite cuisine. There is an extensive tasting menu and a smaller set menu, as well as a wine menu paired with both. The vegan dishes combine influences from around the world.
Korkeavuorenkatu 27
Round
These Americana-inspired cafés in the Punavuori and Kallio districts serve delicious vegan donuts with a variety of fillings. The Round café in Punavuori has the feel of a traditional diner, while the Round café in Kallio is more artisanal. In September 2022, Round announced that it was expanding its offerings to include bagels and breakfasts.
Kaivokatu 1, Kluuvi
Iso Roobertinkatu 16, Punavuori
Helsinginkatu 15, Kallio
Thai Vegan Kitchen and Peace Kitchen
Thai Vegan Kitchen, known originally for its legendary street food, has successfully maintained this spirit in its restaurant and positively exudes a desire to promote the cause of vegan food. In addition to the daily specials, you can enjoy a wide and varied selection of traditional Thai delicacies, as well as samples from other East Asian cuisines. Here you can familiarise yourself with a versatile selection of vegetable proteins, and the flavouring of the dishes is really skilful. Its sister restaurant Peace Kitchen in Punavuori specialises in noodles!
Where to stay in Helsinki
1. Mid Range: Hotel Finn
Directly across the street from Stockmann Department Store, this hotel is 5 minutes’ walk from Helsinki Central Station. It offers free Wi-Fi, along with basic and functional rooms with local artist’s works.
Cable TV and private bathrooms with a shower can be found in all rooms at Hotel Finn.
A variety of restaurants, cafés and bars are located in the area surrounding Finn Hotel.
2. Luxury – Hotel Kämp
Established in 1887 as Finland’s grand hôtel, Hotel Kämp is located in the heart of Helsinki opposite the beautiful Esplanade park. The hotel features 179 spacious rooms, 15 of which are luxurious suites.
The spacious rooms combine historical elegance with high-quality facilities. All rooms feature comfortable beds, marble bathrooms and Chromecast-streaming systems. Guests can order in-room dining and enjoy the lovely view over the park, the city or the inner courtyard. Access to the exquisite Upper Lounge is included for guests staying in the Executive rooms and the Suites.
3. Budget – Senate Hotel
Featuring a terrace, Senate Hotel is located in the center of Helsinki, 1.5 miles from Uunisaaren Beach. This 2-star hotel offers a shared kitchen, a concierge service and free WiFi. The hotel features family rooms.
At the hotel, every room has a desk, a flat-screen TV, a shared bathroom, bed linen and towels. Rooms have a coffee machine, while some rooms will provide you with a patio and others also provide guests with city views. All guest rooms will provide guests with a closet and an electric tea pot.
More to Explore
