Vienna, the capital of Austria, is a city rich in history, culture, and art. Known for its imperial palaces, classical music heritage, and elegant architecture, Vienna has been a center of European influence for centuries.
Austria: Vienna – Schönbrunn Palace
Having been in Vienna for four days we’d already seen many of the things we’d wanted to look at in Vienna. Only one place remained on my agenda, Schönbrunn Palace, which turned out to be a short walk from where we were staying.
So, loaded up with water and lathered with sunscreen we headed out on the twenty-minute walk to the palace.
I hadn’t gotten the tickets ahead of time so when we arrived, I bought timed tickets which meant we had to wait a little to go into the palace. This proved not to be much of a problem as we could still explore the extensive grounds of Schönbrunn.
The park at Schönbrunn Palace, which had originally been named ‘Katterburg‘ and was used as a hunting ground by the Habsburgs, eventually transformed into a picturesque Baroque complex under Franz I Stephan of Lorraine.
Immediately behind the Palace were the formal gardens, the Great Parterre, laid out in the ‘British’ style that was fashionable at the time the gardens were designed. I’ve seen a lot of the gardens like these in the grand palaces of Europe and they are not to my taste. So, I headed to the top of this section of the garden where there was a large fountain, the Neptune Fountain. The fountain is constructed of marble and at its centre, there are several sculpted characters, the primary one being the sea god Neptune.
The fountain sits at the bottom of a hill, on top of which stands the Gloriette. I walked up this hill, which was fairly steep, but the effort was worth it as the views towards Schönbrunn Palace and the city beyond were magnificent. Gloriette’s were a popular addition to the grand gardens and were erected on an elevated site to provide a place to enjoy a view of the gardens. The Schönbrunn Gloriette consists of a central section in the form of a triumphal arch, flanked by arcaded wings with semi-circular arches. The central section, which was glazed during the last year of Maria Theresa’s life, is crowned with a mighty imperial eagle perching on a globe and surrounded by trophies.
It was time to go and visit the Palace, so we descended the hill through the grove of trees and paths that lined the side of the Grand Parterre.
The history of Schönbrunn and the buildings that previously stood on this site date back to the Middle Ages. From the beginning of the fourteenth century, the estate bore the name of Katterburg and belonged to the manor of the abbey at Klosterneuburg.
In 1569 the estate came into Habsburg possession through Maximilian II. For nearly one hundred years the estate was used by the Habsburgs for hunting. Emperor Ferdinand II, and his wife, Eleonora von Gonzaga, both passionately keen on hunting, chose Schönbrunn as the venue for their hunting parties. After Ferdinand died in 1637, the estate became the dower residence of his art-loving widow, who needed the appropriate architectural setting for her busy social life. She had a Château de Plaisance built around 1642, which was accompanied by the renaming of the Katterburg as Schönbrunn.
In 1683 the château de Plaisance and its deer park fell victim to the depredations of Turkish troops during the siege of Vienna. From 1686 the estate was in the possession of Emperor Leopold I, who decided that he would make the estate over to his son and heir, Joseph, and have a splendid new residence built for him.
Following the death of Maria Theresa in 1780 the palace at Schönbrunn was not used again until the reign of Emperor Franz II in the early nineteenth century. When preparations for the Congress of Vienna in 1814/15 were being made it became clear that Schönbrunn urgently needed renovating and refurbishing to bring it up to date. The renovation of the palace façade is what we see today.
The are several self-guided audio tours that take you through the Schönbrunn Palace. We got tickets for the ‘Grand Tour’ which lasts about 60 minutes.
There is no photography allowed inside the Palace building, so all the images below are from the official Schonbrunn website.
The tour started in the private apartments of Franz Joseph and Elisabeth, the last Imperial couple to live at Schönbrunn, and the south-facing reception rooms looking out onto the palace gardens. The private apartments were simply furnished as was the style at the time. Empress Elizabeth was more commonly known as ‘Sisi’, the name her family used was only 16 when she married Franz Joseph. Sisi was an independent character who despised court life and started to rebel against it by taking up smoking, riding, and gymnastics – which resulted in some notoriety.
The second part of the grand tour covers the apartments from the time of Maria Theresa. With their décor largely dominated by chinoiserie and East Asian elements, these rooms are among the most luxurious interiors in the palace. They include the Blue Chinese Salon and the Vieux Laque Room, which was remodelled as a memorial room after the death of Franz I. A highlight of the tour is the so-called Millions Room, named for its precious rosewood panelling. The tour ends in the so-called Rich Room, which contains the only surviving state bed of the Viennese court.
Planning your visit to Schöbrunn
PUBLIC TRANSPORT THAT TAKES YOU STRAIGHT TO THE PALACE
Underground: U4, get off at Schönbrunn
Trams: 10 and 60, get off at Schloss Schönbrunn
Bus: 10 A, get off at Schloss Schönbrunn
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Station Westbahnhof
journey time approximately 15 minutes from the Westbahnhof (western railway terminal). Take the westbound tram line No. 60 and alight at Schloss Schönbrunn
Station Meidling
journey time aproximately 30 minutes from the Station Meidling. Take the northbound U6 (brown) underground line and alight at Längenfeldgasse, then change to the westbound U4 (green) underground line and alight at Schönbrunn
Station Wien Hauptbahnhof
take the U1 (red) underground line and alight at Karlsplatz, then change to the westbound U4 (green) underground line and alight at Schönbrunn
In summary
- If you love historical buildings and formal gardens you will love this place. Take good walking shoes! There is also a zoo here if you want to visit.
- You should allocate at least three hours to visit the gardens and the Palace.
- Getting to the Schonbrunn Palace is very easy via public transport.
Getting around Vienna
Vienna, the capital of Austria, is a vibrant city with excellent transportation options. Here’s a guide to getting around the city:
1. Public Transport
Vienna’s public transport system is extensive, efficient, and easy to use, covering buses, trams, and the metro (U-Bahn).
- U-Bahn (Subway): Vienna’s metro system is fast, clean, and reliable. The main lines (U1, U2, U3, U4) cover the city from north to south and east to west, making it the quickest way to get around.
- Trams: Trams are another convenient way to travel, particularly for short to medium distances. Vienna’s tram network is one of the most extensive in Europe and a scenic way to see the city.
- Buses: Buses complement the metro and trams, especially for areas that aren’t covered by the U-Bahn. They’re also a good option for reaching more remote parts of Vienna.
Tickets: Tickets are valid on all forms of public transport, and you can buy them at stations, kiosks, or via mobile apps. Options include single tickets, day passes, or longer travel cards.
2. Vienna Card
If you plan on staying for several days and will use public transport frequently, the Vienna City Card offers unlimited travel on the U-Bahn, trams, and buses for a set number of days. It also provides discounts to many museums and attractions.
3. Bikes and Scooters
Vienna is a bike-friendly city, and there are bike lanes throughout the city. You can rent bikes or electric scooters (like Lime or Circ) via mobile apps. Bikes are also available through the city’s Citybike Wien service, where you can pick up and drop off bikes at various stations across the city.
4. Walking
Many of Vienna’s top attractions are in close proximity to each other, especially in the city centre (Innere Stadt). The historical centre is compact and walkable, so walking is often a pleasant and practical way to explore the city.
5. Taxis and Ride-Sharing
Taxis are readily available, though they can be more expensive than public transport. Alternatively, you can use ride-sharing services like Uber in Vienna, which operates in the city and may be more affordable than taxis.
6. Car Rentals
While Vienna’s public transport is more than sufficient for most visitors, if you want to explore areas outside the city, renting a car is an option. However, driving and parking in the city center can be difficult and expensive, so it’s typically not recommended unless you plan on traveling to nearby towns.
7. Train Travel
For day trips outside of Vienna, the city’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) connects to many destinations within Austria and neighboring countries. The train system is efficient and well-connected.
8. Vienna’s Ringstrasse
For tourists, a Ring Tram is a great way to see major landmarks, including the State Opera, Parliament, and City Hall, along the famous Ringstrasse boulevard. This tram is a hop-on, hop-off service with audio commentary.
9. Boats
Vienna is located along the Danube River, and there are boat tours that provide a unique way to view the city. The DDSG Blue Danube offers a variety of boat tours along the river.
Eating out for vegans in Vienna
Depending on the time of day, ULRICH can be a café, restaurant or a bar. If you go there in the morning, you’ll get a large vegan breakfast plate with corn fritters, hummus, a tiny portion of porridge and more. The menu also offers juices, coffee, vegan salads, flatbreads, gnocchi, and more. I highly recommend going there, because the combination of ingredients is anything but boring, the whole spot is very beautiful, the staff is friendly and everything I ate there was just delicious.
They also have a second spot called ERICH which is only a few minutes to walk away and their food is more Mexican-inspired. They offer vegan huevos rancheros, bowls and a sweet potato with soy dip.
At Harvest Bistro the food is completely vegan and they offer everything from breakfast (e.g. scrambled tofu) and snacks (seaweed caviar!) to desserts and the vegan Wiener Schnitzel. The café is super cosy and looks like grandma’s living room. On weekends, you will also get an “all vegan brunch” there.
- Veggiezz is a vegan restaurant chain in Vienna, Austria, offering a diverse menu of plant-based dishes. Their offerings include burgers, wraps, bowls, salads, and desserts, all crafted from fresh, high-quality ingredients.
- Founded by two sisters, the all-vegan ice cream shop “Veganista” already has six stores in Vienna. They produce 18 fresh ice cream flavours every day – from hazelnut to strawberry, from poppy seeds to matcha and from chocolate to tahini. If possible, ingredients are regional and from natural ingredients only. Even their ice cream cups and spoons are biodegradable.
The best time to visit Vienna
The best time to visit Vienna depends on your preferences for weather, events, and crowds. Here’s a breakdown of the different seasons:
1. Spring (April to June)
- Why visit? Spring is one of the best times to visit Vienna. The weather is mild, with average temperatures ranging from 10°C (50°F) to 20°C (68°F). The city’s parks and gardens, including Schönbrunn Palace Gardens and Stadtpark, are in full bloom, making it perfect for sightseeing and outdoor activities.
- Events: Vienna Festival (Wiener Festwochen), which typically runs from mid-May to mid-June, showcases a variety of cultural performances like theater, music, and dance.
2. Summer (July to August)
- Why visit? Summer is peak tourist season, with warmer weather and longer days (temperatures can reach up to 30°C or 86°F). The city is vibrant, with many outdoor cafes, music festivals, and events.
- Events: The Vienna Philharmonic Summer Night Concert and various music festivals are highlights. However, expect larger crowds and higher prices for accommodation.
- Tip: If you don’t mind the heat and crowds, it’s a great time for festivals and outdoor events.
3. Autumn (September to November)
- Why visit? Autumn is a fantastic time for those who prefer fewer tourists and cooler, more comfortable weather. Temperatures range from 10°C (50°F) to 20°C (68°F) in September and cool down further in October and November.
- Events: The Film Festival at the Rathausplatz (City Hall) in September and the Vienna Wine Harvest Festival in the outskirts are notable autumn events.
- Tip: The fall foliage in the city’s parks and vineyards makes this a scenic and pleasant time for outdoor activities.
4. Winter (December to February)
- Why visit? Winter in Vienna can be magical, especially around Christmas. The city’s Christmas markets, especially those in front of the Rathaus and Schönbrunn, are famous worldwide. The temperatures range from 0°C (32°F) to 5°C (41°F), and snow is possible.
- Events: Christmas markets, New Year’s Eve balls, and the famous Vienna Opera Ball in February. If you’re into winter sports, nearby ski resorts are easily accessible.
- Tip: Winter is less crowded compared to summer, making it a great time for those who want to experience Vienna in a more tranquil atmosphere.
Overall Best Time:
- Late spring (May and June) and early autumn (September and October) are often considered the best times to visit Vienna. The weather is pleasant, and the crowds are manageable, making it ideal for sightseeing and enjoying the cultural scene.
Where to stay in Vienna
As you might expect for a European capital city there is a wide variety of accommodation in Vienna to suit a range of budgets. Below is a summary of the main areas that are best suited for visitors.
- Innere Stadt – The heart of Vienna, perfect for first-time visitors. It’s where you’ll find major sights like St. Stephen’s Cathedral and Hofburg Palace. However, it can be pricey and crowded, especially during peak tourist seasons.
- Leopoldstadt – A diverse and vibrant area, home to the Prater amusement park and the beautiful Danube Canal. Great for families and those seeking a lively atmosphere.
- Landstrasse – Known for the Belvedere Palace and Hundertwasserhaus, this district offers a mix of historical and modern attractions. Ideal for art and culture enthusiasts.
- Wieden – A charming neighbourhood with a bohemian vibe, known for its cafes, boutiques, and proximity to the Naschmarkt. Perfect for travellers seeking a local experience.
- Mariahilf – Famous for Mariahilfer Straße, Vienna’s largest shopping street. It’s a bustling area with easy access to attractions and great for shopaholics.
- Neubau – The trendy and artistic district, filled with galleries, theatres, and hip cafes. A top choice for younger travellers and those interested in contemporary culture.
- Josefstadt – A quieter, more residential area with a historic charm. Ideal for those who prefer a more relaxed atmosphere while still being close to the city centre.
1. Mid Range: Hotel Graf Stadion
The ecologically friendly Hotel Graf Stadion is located in the district of Josefstadt, only 820 feet from the Rathaus Underground Station and within walking distance of Vienna’s Town Hall, the Burg Theater, the Parliament, and the Hofburg Palace. Free WiFi is available and public parking spaces can be found nearby, for an extra charge.
Built in Biedermeier style, Hotel Graf Stadion is a protected historic building, and one of the elevators has been reliably operating since 1913.
2. Luxury – The Amauris Vienna
The Amauris Vienna – Relais & Châteaux is an elegant and modern design hotel, located right in the city centre on the famous Ringstraße boulevard, 656 feet from the State Opera. Free WiFi access is available throughout the entire hotel.
Located on the historic Ring Boulevard, right between the Vienna State Opera and the Musikverein concert hall, our luxury boutique hotel is your gateway to Viennese-rich culture. Explore the city’s opulent palaces, famous museums, renowned restaurants, coffeehouses and vibrant shopping districts. Explore the cultural heart of this historic city and then come back to The Amauris for its five-star pampering.
3. Budget – Vienna Boutique – Premium Hostel
Located in Vienna and within a 12-minute walk of Wiener Stadthalle, Vienna Boutique – Premium Hostel features a shared lounge, allergy-free rooms, and free WiFi throughout the property. The property is around 1.5 miles from Vienna City Hall, 1.2 miles from Natural History Museum and 1.2 miles from Kunsthistorisches Museum. The property provides a shuttle service, while a bicycle rental service is also available.
Popular points of interest near Vienna Boutique – Premium Hostel include Wien Westbahnhof Train Station, Parliament of Austria and Leopold Museum.
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Friedensreich Hundertwasser was an Austrian artist and architect known for his vibrant, nature-inspired works that rejected straight lines and emphasized organic forms. His architectural designs, such as the Hundertwasserhaus in Vienna, showcase his philosophy of harmony with nature through irregular shapes, vivid colors, and the incorporation of greenery.
