Vietnam: Mỹ Sơn Sanctuary

🏛️ History and Culture of My Son Sanctuary

My Son Sanctuary is one of the most important archaeological and cultural sites in Vietnam. It sits quietly in a valley about 40 kilometres inland from the coast, and today it is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The area was once the spiritual centre of the Champa Kingdom, a civilisation that thrived in central and southern Vietnam for roughly a thousand years, from the 4th to the 14th century. The Cham people were heavily influenced by Indian culture through maritime trade, and Hinduism became the foundation of their religious life.

At My Son, generations of Cham kings built temples to honour Shiva, who they saw as their protector and the symbol of destruction and rebirth. Each king added his own structures over time, creating a long sequence of architectural styles. Although the Cham wrote inscriptions in Sanskrit and Old Cham, much of their early history is still not fully understood, and the sanctuary gives one of the clearest glimpses into their world.

The temples were built from small red bricks laid together so precisely that no mortar lines are visible. The technique has puzzled researchers for decades. Some believe the Cham used a natural resin or oil to bind the bricks, while others think they fired the bricks after construction. The carvings on the walls show gods, dancers, animals, and mythological scenes, linking the site to Indian art yet giving it a distinct Cham character.

Over the centuries, wars, weather, and neglect damaged the complex. The most severe destruction occurred during the Vietnam War, when several groups of temples were hit by heavy bombing. Despite this, many structures survived or have since been stabilised. As a result, My Son remains a rare physical record of the Champa civilisation and one of the oldest Hindu temple complexes in Southeast Asia.

🌧️ A Wet Morning and a Change of Plans

It looked as though we were heading into another wet day, and by this point we had grown used to the constant drizzle that often settles over central Vietnam at that time of year. Our plan was to visit My Son Sanctuary in the morning and take a cooking class in the afternoon. But as we sat at breakfast watching the steady rain, the idea of standing over hot pans for several hours did not seem very appealing. We decided it was better to cancel the class and focus our energy on the trip to My Son instead. It felt like the right decision, especially with the grey skies hanging low over Hội An.

🚐 Travelling from Hội An to the Sanctuary

The sanctuary is tucked away in a sheltered valley, and although it is not far from Hội An, it feels quite remote. When our minibus pulled up outside the hotel, we climbed aboard with a small group of other travellers. The journey took just under an hour, following narrow rural roads lined with rice paddies. Water buffalo grazed in the fields, and farmers in conical hats were already hard at work despite the weather.

Our guide used the drive to tell us about the history of the Cham people and their Hindu beliefs. She explained how My Son had been the spiritual heart of the Champa Kingdom for many centuries, and how each king had built temples as a way of honouring their gods and reinforcing their own authority. Hearing all this while passing through the peaceful countryside created a sense of calmness before we even reached the site.

🌿 Arriving at the Entrance

When we arrived, the rain had eased into a light mist. We stepped out into damp air and pulled on our jackets again. Our guide collected our tickets while we looked around. Visitors can either take a buggy or walk the short route to the temples. She encouraged us to walk so she could explain more along the way.