Muang Boran, translated "Ancient City", is a museum park in Thailand located in Samut Prakan, just outside of Bangkok. This is not an amusement park, but instead is a real-life open-air museum where the most famous monuments of the country are replicated.
Thailand: Bangkok – Erawan Museum
The Erawan Museum, which is famous for its giant three-headed art sculpture, the first and biggest hand-carved sculpture in the world. It is considered an important tourist attraction as well as a holy shrine.
Once you are inside the wall you are miraculously taken into an oasis. The museum building stands in a beautiful garden, with ponds and fountains and a lot of statues, mainly of elephants. It does beg the question of why someone would build this here!
Construction started on the Erawan Museum in 1994 and it was not until 2003 that opened to the public. The museum was conceived by Lek Viriyaphant, the man whose vision had led to the Ancient City we had visited earlier in the day.
The building including the elephant sculpture is 43.6 metres in height. The width of the elephant is 12 metres and its length is 39 metres. The weight of the elephant’s body is 150 tons, and the elephant’s head weighs 100 tonnes. The outer layer of the elephant is lined with 1.2 mm thick copper sheets.
The museum is divided into three main floors each associated with a Hindu representation of the universe, which consists of Underworld, Earth, and Heaven. The two lower floors are located inside of the sculpture’s pedestal while the top floor is located in the belly of the elephant.
When we entered the building, we were blown away. The are two sets of stairs that curve upwards to the second floor, that look like they were taken out of a French château. These stairs are decorated with delicate plaster mouldings. Without a doubt, the most remarkable feature is the dome glass ceiling which is made up of blue, white, and gold glass. Four beautifully decorated pillars represent the earth, holding up the ceiling which symbolises the roof of the earth.
The first floor represents the underworld and contains precious artefacts from the founder, Lek Viriyaphant’s collection. These include collections of tea sets, vases, and bowls, from the Ming Dynasty and Qing Dynasty. The underworld level also hosts the sculpture of the mythical being, a half-Naga-half person, which was modelled after the belief that these beings guarded the precious treasures under the water.
The second floor represents the earth or the human world, this level houses three major types of art pieces and precious antiques and arts including Thai ceramics, stained glass, and European potteries.
To get to the third floor you must climb a spiral staircase into the belly of the elephant. This floor represents heaven, which is located on top of Mount Meru in Buddhist cosmology. There was a display of Buddha’s relics and ancient Buddha statues from several eras. The walls are decorated with paintings depicting the universe by a German master. Other than this, Thai believers flock here to pay respect to the god Indra and the three-headed elephant god.
After climbing back down to ground level we went off to explore the gardens. It was getting towards the end of the day, so they were uncrowded, so it was possible to find a quiet space to reflect on the world. The peace was only occasionally interrupted by a passing touring taking their perfect Instagram shot.
Before leaving, we stopped at the small café to have an iced coffee.
Planning your visit to the Erawan Museum
Bus
Bus Number 25, 142, 365. Air-con bus Number 102, 507, 511, 536
Metro
The are two stations of the BTS to choose to get off, Pu Chao and Chang Erawan, with the museum located equidistant between the two. We decided to opt for Pu Chao. You can get a taxi from the metro stations – but we decided to walk.
The museum is in an ‘interesting’ place, it is surrounded by elevated transport systems; two major roads and the BTS Skyway. It is more or less a straight line to the museum from the station, but you have to walk along a busy four-lane road, and for most of the way there is no pathway, it was a matter of dodging around the car, bikes and other detritus outside the commercial businesses along the way. The last hurdle is to cross a two-lane road which is the exit road from the highway – and the vehicles come at you very quickly.
| Website | https://www.muangboranmuseum.com/en/landmark/the-erawan-museum/ |
| Telephone | +66 2-371-3135-6 |
| info@ancientsiam.com | |
| Hours | Daily 9 am-7 pm |
| Admission | Foreigner Adult – 400.00 Foreigner Child – 200.00 |
| Address | 99/9 Moo 1, Sukhumvit Road, Bang Meung Mai, Amphoe Meung, Samut Prakan 10270 |
Getting around Bangkok
Skytrain
The Skytrain is an elevated train that is also known as BTS.
The system consists of 62 stations along three lines with a combined route length of 70.05 kilometres (43.53 mi). The BTS Sukhumvit Line runs northwards and south-eastwards, terminating at Khu Khot and Kheha respectively. The BTS Silom Line which serves Silom and Sathon Roads, the central business district of Bangkok, terminates at National Stadium and Bang Wa. The Gold Line people mover runs from Krung Thon Buri to Klong San and serves Iconsiam.
Metro
Bangkok’s metro system (MRT) is also good for travelling between the Sukhumvit or Silom districts to reach Hualamphong Train Station. Ticket costs on the Metro are inexpensive.
The popular Chatuchak Weekend Market is located at Mo Chit station on the Sukhumvit BTS line and Chatuchak Park on the MRT line.
Boats
Bangkok is split in two by the Chao Phraya River, and the west bank (formerly Thonburi) is still home to a pretty extensive canal system. One of the best ways (although not necessarily the quickest) to visit sights along the river bank, like the Grand Palace and Wat Pho Temple, is by boat. The main pier (Tha Sathon, or Central Pier) connects with the Saphan Taksin BTS station.
The Chao Phraya Express Boat (orange flag) departs every 10 – 20 minutes between 6 am and 7 pm. The tourist boat (blue flag) runs from Central Pier to Phra Athit/Banglamphu Pier (number 13 on our map). It departs every 30 minutes from 9:30 am to 5 pm and stops at 8 main piers on the route.
To cross the river, countless ferries run every few minutes all day and into the night.
Taxis
Travelling around Bangkok by taxi is surprisingly cheap – sometimes even more so than the Skytrain – plus, it’s comfortable and easy, and the drivers are usually really friendly.
Taxis have to use their meters – if a driver refuses to do so, find a different taxi!
Don’t expect your driver to speak English. An address written in Thai is a good bet to ensure you’ll get to the right place! You can also try using Google Translate on your Smartphone.
Grab
This ride-hailing app is a great way to get around Bangkok. Journeys are reserved via a mobile application, and the journey has a fixed fare meaning that you’ll avoid arguments and haggling with taxi drivers. The application allows payment by card, or you can pay the driver in cash.
Tuk-tuks
Those iconic motorized rickshaws are used by locals and tourists alike for short journeys that aren’t worth the taxi fare. Tourists, however, are usually overcharged for these noisy and polluted trips! Always try and haggle the price and agree on a price before setting off. Super cheap tuk-tuks are usually too good to be true and will take you to gem shops and massage parlours in the hope of some commission.
The best time to visit Bangkok
Bangkok, Thailand, lies within the ‘Aw’ Köppen climate zone, demarcating the predominance of tropical wet and dry conditions or more commonly known as ‘Savanna’. The geographical positioning of Bangkok within the lower central part of the country, close to the Gulf of Thailand, contributes to its distinctive tropical climate.
A consistent pattern can be discerned in the city’s climate throughout the year, with average monthly temperatures remaining relatively warm, ranging from a lowest average of 31.7°C to the maximum of 35.4°C. The relative humidity hovers between 66% and 79%, reflecting the tropical nature of the city’s climate. Rainfall varies dramatically, with the months of January and December experiencing just 13.3 and 6mm of rainfall respectively, compared to the deluge of 334mm in September. As far as sunshine is concerned, the city basks in between 5.2 to 9 hours of sunlight per day; this is complemented by daylight hours that range from 11.3 hours to 12.9 hours annually.
Remarkable patterns in Bangkok’s weather include the marked decrease in rainfall towards the tail end of the year and the relatively steady temperature throughout. This pattern of a pronounced dry season, coupled with uniform temperatures and fluctuating humidity levels, offers a distinctive characteristic of Bangkok’s tropical savanna climate.
The best time to visit Bangkok
Visiting Bangkok from November to February could be an enjoyable experience as these months witness relatively lower temperature ranges, from 31.7°C to 34.4°C and least rainfall, from 6mm to 50mm on average. With up to 8.5 hours of sunshine daily and a modest UV index of 9 to 10, these months provide an ideal opportunity for visitors to explore the city’s bustling streets and numerous attractions without the discomfort of extreme weather conditions.
The worst time to visit Bangkok
Planning a visit between May and October may prove to be challenging due to the substantial increase in rainfall, with September witnessing the highest rainfall of 334mm on average. June to September also have the highest relative humidity of 79%, potentially leading to discomfort due to the muggy climate. Temperatures from May to October do not provide much respite either, with the mercury hovering between 32.8°C and 35.4°C.
Other places to visit while in Bangkok
1. CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET
The Chatuchak Weekend Market, on Kamphaeng Phet 2 Road, Chatuchak, Bangkok, is the largest market in Thailand. Also known as JJ Market, it has more than 15,000 stalls and 11,505 vendors, divided into 27 sections.
2. JIM THOMPSON HOUSE
American Jim Thompson was an officer at the OSS, stationed in Thailand during World War II. After the conflict ended, he stayed in the country to work on a new business plan. In 1947, he sent bolts of vibrant, hand-woven Thai silks to fashion heavyweights in New York City.
3. CALYPSO CABARET
Thailand is infamous for its beautiful kathoey, or ladyboys. The term is used to refer to a transgender woman or a man who likes to dress up as a woman. If you are into drag shows and want to support the local kathoey community, then you must go to Calypso Cabaret.
4. NATIONAL MUSEUM
The National Museum, located on the opposite side of Sanam Luang to The Grand Palace, was established in 1887 by King Rama V. The foundation collection was previously stored at The grand palace. The original building was formerly the palace of a vice-ruler.
Where to stay in Bangkok
Siam Square
Siam Square is a shopping mecca, full of luxury shopping centres and bargain department stores, designer labels, and trendy fashion boutiques. The small sois of Siam Square are alive with record stores, bookstores, cafes, and bars. Siam Square has the best shopping in Bangkok and is full of amenities, like cinemas, massage parlours, and salons. Siam Square is busy and safe at all hours.
Sukhumvit
If you want luxury hotels, top-notch restaurants, and lively nightlife, Sukhumvit is the place to go. This is where many ex-pats live and where tourists can find the top facilities in Bangkok. Many cosmopolitan clubs and restaurants line Sukhumvit while calm and atmospheric cafes are hidden in the sois leading off the main street. The Skytrain runs the length of Sukhumvit making it easy to explore. Also, Sukhumvit is famous for two red-light districts, Nana Plaza on Soi 4 and Soi Cowboy, just off Soi 23.
Khao San
Khao San Road is a 1 km stretch of shops, bars, restaurants, and street vendors and is home to the backpacker scene – though it is adding more mid-range hotels and boutiques every year. (Banglamphu is the name of the surrounding neighbourhood.) People either love it or hate it but it is well worth a visit. It’s centrally located and close to many of Bangkok’s top attractions (like the Grand Palace). If you’re arriving late at night and don’t have a hotel reservation it should be your top choice as the neighborhood stays up late and is easy to traverse on foot. The nearby sois (sidestreets) are offbeat arty areas that surprisingly retain a genuine Thai feel. The Skytrain and Metro don’t connect to the Khao San area, so you’ll be dependent on buses, taxis, and tuk tuks to get in and out of the area.
Bangkok Old Town
Bangkok Old Town (also Rattanakosin) is a historic area, bordered by the Chao Phraya and canals which served as moats for the old city. Bangkok’s most revered historical attractions are located in Rattanakosin. The area is home to a plethora of Buddhist temples, palaces, monuments, and museums. The Old City area is relatively small and ideal for walking to explore the area.
Silom
Silom is Bangkok’s Wall Street (through the day). After nightfall, the people and environment changes considerably. The skyline is lined with skyscrapers boasting the names of local and international financial institutions, law firms, and corporations. The small sois between Silom Road and Surawong Road become alive with people, street life, sidewalk stalls, and street food vendors. Tourists and locals come here to see the infamous Patpong red-light district.
Chinatown
Chinese merchants moved to the east bank of the Chao Phraya River in the early 1780’s, making Chinatown the oldest neighborhood in Bangkok. The neighborhood was defined by trade then and still is today. These days, Chinatown isn’t set as a tourist attraction. It is a genuine Chinese neighbourhood where people work and live. The streets of Chinatown are vivid and hectic – packed full of people, market stalls, and a concentration of gold shops. The only drawback is there isn’t much nightlife or amenities aimed at the typical tourist.
Thonburi
Thonburi comprises the entire west bank of the Chao Phraya River – across the water from the city’s center. If you’re sensitive to breathing polluted air then staying in Thonburi can make a noticeable difference on allergies. On this side of the river there’s a slower, more relaxed Bangkok that gives visitors a glimpse into traditional Thai culture. Canals make their way through the relatively isolated neighborhoods. Vendors sell noodles from old Thai long tail boats and locals prefer to bicycle through the sois. The most popular tourist activity is to hire a long tail boat and explore the waterways and floating markets.
1. THE FIG LOBBY
The Fig Lobby is a bright and bold beacon to modern art lodged in an older traditional area of Bangkok. It is bright and ballsy and hard to miss with its bright colours and irregular patterns.
In the heart of Bangkok, The Fig Lobby is within a 5-minute drive of MedPark Hospital and Terminal 21 Shopping Mall. This 4-star hotel is 3.3 mi (5.3 km) from CentralWorld Shopping Complex and 3.5 mi (5.6 km) from MBK Center.
2. MID-RANGE – WHITE IVORY BED & BREAKFAST
We have stayed at this small hotel a couple of times when visiting Bangkok. It is a cosy, off-the-beaten-track boutique hotel with a friendly and helpful staff. The hotel is not in a touristy area and is surrounded by local shops and small businesses. If you are looking for a more authentic Bangkok experience this could be the place for you. There is a BTS station with a few minutes walk and many buses pass close by, so it doesn’t feel cut off at all.
The lobby area looks like a cafe, but I have never seen them serve any food or drink here. It is more of a hangout area for guests. Breakfasts are available at the sister hotel around the corner or you can walk to the main road where there are several ‘western’ style cafes to choose from.
3. BUDGET – NAPPARK HOSTEL AT KHAO SAN
This newly-opened hostel is perfectly located in the very centre of Bangkok. It is close to many tourist attractions, including the Grand Palace, Khao San Road, the Temple of Dawn, Wat Pho, and the famous nightlife and shopping of Bangkok. This hostel was specially designed for backpackers looking to experience a real Thai home styled with a colourful, friendly attitude, fun and sociable atmosphere.
More to Explore
