The National Museum of Saudi Arabia, located in Riyadh, is a premier cultural institution showcasing the rich history, heritage, and civilization of the Arabian Peninsula through meticulously curated exhibits, artefacts, and interactive displays.
Saudi Arabia: Jeddah – Al Balad
Our plan was to start by visiting Jeddah’s corniche, its waterfront with the Red Sea, which is lined with luxury hotels, and iconic landmarks like the King Fahd Fountain, one of the tallest in the world.
Looking at the map it was about 3km from our hotel to the beginning of the corniche. This time of year, the weather is pretty much perfect on the Arabian Peninsula with temperatures in the mid-20s and little humidity – so we decided to walk.
We soon realised that Saudi Arabia is not designed for pedestrians as everyone drives everywhere. The first kilometre and a half were on side streets in a residential area, so it was not too bad, but then we reached a six-lane highway, There were places we could walk along the side of the highway, but it was not obvious where we might be able to cross it. Something else we discovered was that vehicles do not give way to pedestrians, so it was a matter of timing and working out the speed and distance of oncoming cars to get across a road.
Finally, we managed to find somewhere where we could cross in relative safety, and there was even a pedestrian crossing with white stripes on the road. Like most countries in the world, they should not waste money on the paint as no drivers take any notice.
We made our way into a small park, which was full of people just enjoying the sunny weather. This is where we got our first sight of water, which instantly filled our hearts with joy. We were not looking at the Red Sea, but a lagoon, it was not exactly stunning, but the water was a deep blue and inviting – sadly you were not allowed to fish in here. This was the start of the Corniche.
Continuing along the Corniche we made occasional stops to look at and photograph some of the statues and artwork along the way. It was quite nice, but the view out towards the sea was dominated by the docks and passing oil tankers – not surprising as we were in the largest oil-exporting country in the world.
By the time we reached the end of the lower Corniche, we were hot from the walking. It was then that we spotted a McDonalds, so we went in and ordered some iced coffee and an ice cream, all of which was enough to cool us down.
We planned to go to Al Balad district, which was still around 5km away. We decided to carry on walking for a bit to see if the Corniche got more interesting – but after another kilometre or so, nothing had improved so we decided we would hail a Bolt ride to go the rest of the way—a good call.
The car took us to one of the city’s old gates, called Bab Makkah, which seemed to be a good place to start our exploration. The gate sits on the edge of the Al Balad district and is bordered currently by a building site that now doubles as a parking lot. It now sits in the confines of a roundabout – like some standalone triumphal arch. The walls that once connected to gates that surrounded to original city of Jeddah are long gone – but the gate remains an iconic symbol of the city and a powerful link to its past.
Close to the Bab Makkah gates are the narrow streets that enter the Al Balad district. It was Sunday, so many of the shops that fill the ground levels of the buildings that line the streets were closed, but some were open for business, with their owners sitting outside trying to tempt us in.
Al Balad, the historic heart of Jeddah, is a UNESCO-listed heritage site known for its rich history, vibrant culture, and distinctive architecture. Dating back to the 7th century, it was once a major gateway for pilgrims travelling to Mecca. The district is characterised by its traditional Hijazi-style buildings, constructed with coral stones and adorned with intricate wooden lattices known as rawasheen. Al Balad is home to bustling souks, historic mosques, and restored merchant houses. Most of the rawasheen are painted a shade of brown, but others were painted shades of green and blue.
We initially stuck to the main thoroughfares of Al Balad where many of the buildings have been restored and looked lovely. As we strayed further through the narrow, winding streets we happened upon many buildings that were not in such a good condition, some were at the point of collapse. The good news is that many of these buildings are under active restoration, and we could see the work was underway. Some of the streets were closed around Al Balad because of this.
In May 2019, Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman announced a restoration initiative targeting 56 historical buildings within Al-Balad, with an initial investment of $13.3 million. This project, implemented by the Ministry of Culture, aims to revitalize these structures and enhance the district’s artistic and cultural appeal, aligning with Saudi Vision 2030’s objectives to diversify the economy and promote tourism.
We got talking with some of the construction workers here who were from the UK, Australia and European countries. They told us about the massive redevelopment that was underway in Jeddah beyond the Al Balad district. In October 2021, Saudi authorities initiated a large-scale demolition campaign targeting numerous districts in Jeddah. The government’s stated objective was to eliminate unplanned settlements and outdated structures to pave the way for modern infrastructure and tourism-centric projects. Again, all a part of the Saudi Vision 2030 programme. The scope of the demolitions has been substantial, with reports indicating that between 16 and 20 neighbourhoods, encompassing approximately 4,000 square kilometres, have been razed. These actions have led to the displacement of a significant number of residents, with estimates suggesting that up to one million people have been affected. Critics have raised concerns about the rapid pace of the evictions, often carried out with minimal notice, and the adequacy of compensation provided to those displaced. You cannot imagine this happening on such a scale in the US or UK!
It would be interesting to revisit Jeddah and Al Balad in 5 years and see what it looks like then!
As we walked around, we could see a lot of activity that was not related to the reconstruction work. Karen could not help but satisfy her curiosity as to what was going on. It turned out that there was a major music rap and techno music festival happening called ‘Balad Beast’ within Al Balad within the next few days. They were expecting around 50,000 to fill the streets of Al Balad where several stages were being set up – we could not but wonder about the effect of loud music on the delicate structures of Al Balad.
One of the workers on the ‘Balad Beast’ we spoke to recommended, a café close by that sold Arabic coffee, served with dates. After walking around a bit, we found a café but were not sure it was the right one, but it looked nice. We ordered our drinks and went up to the roof-top seating area and found a comfy spot. It took a while for our order to arrive, but it was delicious when it did.
The plan was to return to Al Balad tomorrow to do some more exploring of the district, so we decided it was time to return to our hotel for the day.
The following day we headed back to Al Balad to walk around the district some more.
The previous day the museums and many of the businesses were closed, so it was an opportunity to see the contrast of Al Balad on a busier day – although it didn’t appear to be any more crowded or less relaxed.
After a couple of hours, plus a stop for some coffee we were done and took a Bolt ride back to the hotel.
Planning your visit to Al Balad
Getting There
- Location: Al Balad is in the center of Jeddah.
- Transportation:
- By Car: Parking is available, but spaces can be limited.
- By Taxi or Ride-hailing Apps: Uber and Careem operate in Jeddah.
- Public Transport: Buses run to central Jeddah, but taxis are more convenient.
Getting to and around Jeddah
Getting around Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, is relatively easy with various transportation options available, including taxis, ride-hailing services, public buses, and rental cars. Here’s a breakdown of the best ways to navigate the city:
🚖 Taxis & Ride-Hailing Apps
- Careem (owned by Uber) and Uber are the most convenient ways to book rides.
- Local Taxis (white taxis) are available but often don’t use meters, so negotiating the fare in advance is recommended.
- Bolt is also gaining popularity in Jeddah.
🚗 Car Rental
- Many visitors and expats prefer to rent a car. International and local rental companies like Budget, Avis, Sixt, and Enterprise operate in Jeddah.
- Driving requires an International Driving Permit (IDP) or a Saudi license.
- Roads are well-maintained, but traffic congestion can be heavy, especially during rush hours (7-9 AM and 5-8 PM).
🚌 Public Transport
- SAPTCO Buses: The main public bus service, though not widely used by tourists.
- Jeddah BRT (Bus Rapid Transit): A new system being developed for better city connectivity.
- Haramain High-Speed Railway: Connects Jeddah with Makkah and Madinah, perfect for intercity travel.
🚶 Walking & Cycling
- Jeddah is not very pedestrian-friendly except for certain areas like the Corniche.
- The city has limited cycling infrastructure, but Jeddah Waterfront is a great place for biking.
🚉 Metro (Upcoming)
- Jeddah’s Metro project is under development, with completion expected in the coming years.
The best time to visit
The best time to visit Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, is during the winter months, from November to March. During this period, the weather is pleasantly cool and comfortable, making it ideal for sightseeing, outdoor activities, and enjoying the city’s beaches and historical sites.
Why Visit Jeddah in Winter?
Mild and Pleasant Weather
- Temperatures range from 18°C to 28°C (64°F to 82°F), making it enjoyable for exploring.
- Humidity is lower than in summer, creating a more comfortable atmosphere.
Ideal for Outdoor Activities
- Corniche Walks: The Jeddah Corniche is perfect for walking, cycling, and dining by the Red Sea.
- Beaches & Diving: The Red Sea offers incredible diving and snorkeling experiences with clear waters and vibrant marine life.
- Historical Sites: Al-Balad, the old town of Jeddah, is best explored without the scorching summer heat.
Festivals & Events
- Jeddah Season (usually in winter) features concerts, cultural events, and entertainment.
- Red Sea International Film Festival attracts film enthusiasts from around the world.
When to Avoid Jeddah?
- Summer (June to September): Extremely hot, with temperatures often exceeding 40°C (104°F), making outdoor activities challenging.
- Ramadan: If you are not observing the fast, be mindful that restaurants may only open after sunset.
Where to stay
1. Mid Range: Aluya Hotel
Aluya Hotel is situated in the Al-Hamra’a district of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, near Palestine Street, offering easy access to various shops, cafes, and restaurants. The hotel is also close to Middle Corniche Park and the Jeddah Fountain View.
Accommodations and Amenities:
The hotel features 77 air-conditioned rooms equipped with pillowtop beds adorned with Egyptian cotton sheets, flat-screen televisions with digital programming, and private bathrooms featuring rainfall showerheads and designer toiletries. Complimentary wireless internet access is available throughout the property.
2. Luxury – Jeddah Hilton
The Jeddah Hilton is a 5-star hotel located along the North Corniche Road in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, offering stunning views of the Red Sea. It’s conveniently situated within easy reach of the airport, city center, and the Holy City of Makkah.
HILTON.COM
Accommodations: The hotel features 388 rooms and suites, each with a private balcony offering sea or city views. Room categories include Guest Rooms, Executive Rooms, and various Suites, all designed for comfort and convenience.
3. Budget – Al Andalus Tolen Hotel
Al Andalus Tolen Hotel is a 3-star accommodation located in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia. The hotel offers 41 rooms equipped with amenities such as air conditioning, flat-screen TVs with satellite channels, minibars, and free Wi-Fi. Some rooms also feature kitchen facilities, including a refrigerator.
Guests can enjoy a complimentary breakfast during their stay. The hotel provides free private parking and operates a 24-hour front desk, offering services like luggage storage and room service. For relaxation, there’s a hot tub available on-site.
The hotel’s location is convenient for exploring Jeddah’s attractions. It’s approximately 3.1 miles from Nassif House Museum and 5 miles from Jeddah Corniche. Al Andalus Mall is about 6.8 km away
More to Explore
