Saudi Arabia: Riyadh – At Turaif

As we only had one day to spend in Riyadh (I wish I had planned more time here) we needed to be efficient with our plans for the day. The only thing I had on my agenda was visiting the UNESCO World Heritage site, At Turaif which was about 15km from our hotel.

Getting to At Turaif was another issue. The public transport options looked limited, so we opted to hail a Bolt car – my only concern was coming back, not knowing the infrastructure there and how much people traffic and therefore taxis, there would be.

Once we left the city area of Riyadh we were on a highway, along the side of which for mile after mile were hoardings talking about “Diriyah – “City of Earth”. All we could see that was inside the hoardings were dozens upon dozens of cranes (the mechanical lifting type).

The history of Diriyah is heavily linked with the development of the Saudi nation. Established in the 15th century, it became the capital of the First Saudi State in 1744 when Imam Muhammad bin Saud allied with Sheikh Muhammad ibn Abd al-Wahhab, marking the beginning of the Wahhabi movement. Diriyah flourished as a centre of Islamic learning and political power until it was besieged and destroyed by the Ottoman Empire’s forces in 1818. The city remained in ruins for decades until recent efforts to restore and preserve its heritage, particularly in the At-Turaif district, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Today, Diriyah stands as a symbol of Saudi Arabia’s rich history and cultural legacy, undergoing significant redevelopment to become a major cultural and tourism destination.

The city is now undergoing a major redevelopment as part of the Kingdom’s Vision 2030 initiative. This transformation aims to revitalise the historic city, blending its rich cultural heritage with modern urban development.

The Diriyah Gate project is a $63 billion investment designed to create a world-class cultural and lifestyle destination. The development plan includes:

• Residential and Commercial Spaces: Housing for approximately 100,000 residents, along with 16 million square feet of commercial office space.
• Hospitality: Development of 40 hotels, featuring both luxury and affordable accommodations.
• Retail and Dining: Over 1,000 retail outlets and numerous food and beverage establishments.
• Cultural Institutions: Museums, art galleries, and cultural academies to celebrate and preserve Saudi heritage.
• Infrastructure: Integration of four metro stations to enhance connectivity within the city.

Not much of this exists today apart from Bujairi Terrace, a series of upscale restaurants and cafes that foretell the future development of Diriyah and the restored district of At Turaif.

Our driver dropped us at the entrance to Bujairi Terrace, where there were numerous people to help us find out where to go. We should have bought our Diriyah passes online, but it was also free to enter Bujairi and At Turaif before 17:00, so no problem.

At-Turaif was founded in 1446 CE (850 AH) by Mani’ Al-Muraydi, an ancestor of the Al Saud family. It became the centre of the Emirate of Diriyah, which later expanded to become the First Saudi State in the 18th century.

In 1744, At-Turaif became the capital of the First Saudi State when Imam Muhammad bin Saud, the leader of Diriyah, allied with Muhammad ibn Abd al-Wahhab, the founder of the Wahhabi Islamic reform movement. This partnership led to the rapid expansion of Saudi influence across the Arabian Peninsula.

During this period:

• At-Turaif became the political and religious centre of the First Saudi State.
• The city expanded its control over much of central and eastern Arabia.
• The Saudi-Wahhabi movement aimed to unify Arabia under a strict interpretation of Islam.

However, this expansion led to conflicts with the Ottoman Empire, which viewed the Saudi state as a threat.

The city was strategically built on the banks of Wadi Hanifa, a fertile valley that provided natural protection and resources. The architectural style of At-Turaif reflects traditional Najdi architecture, characterised by mud-brick buildings designed to withstand the harsh desert climate.

In 1818, the Ottoman Empire, under the rule of Sultan Mahmud II, sent an Egyptian military campaign led by Ibrahim Pasha to crush the Saudi state. After a long siege, At-Turaif was destroyed and abandoned. Many of its leaders, including Imam Abdullah bin Saud, were executed in Istanbul, and the First Saudi State collapsed.

Following this destruction, the Saudi family relocated and later established the Second Saudi State in Riyadh.

At-Turaif remained in ruins for nearly two centuries until the Saudi government began restoration efforts to preserve its historical significance. In 2010, At-Turaif was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its architectural and historical importance.

Today, At-Turaif is a major cultural and tourist attraction, with museums, restored buildings, and heritage sites showcasing the early history of Saudi Arabia. It is part of the Diriyah Gate Development Project, which aims to transform the area into a global heritage destination.

Once we reached At Turaif we found that there were more staff than visitors. We stopped at the welcome centre where there was a lovely video running across a curved wall of monitors. It looked pretty but didn’t tell us a lot about the history. So, we started to walk through the historic site. The first thing you notice is how beautifully it has been restored – it was gorgeous. Initially, we walked along some boardwalks, then onto stone paths. Occasionally, there were information panels to introduce some of the important buildings of At Turaif – the first major one we encountered was a mosque.

In the next building we entered there was a lovely model of what At Turaif would have looked like in its heyday. Whilst we were looking around, we noticed that another couple was being accompanied by a guide, and they were doing some activity. Karen spoke to the guide, who was a member of staff of At Turaif and he explained this was a treasure hunt where you collected clues and answered questions about the area you were in and what you had learned. This got Karen all excited, especially when she found it was free to do. So, we headed back to the beginning and found where the tour started. We met a young lady, called Jojo, who came with us. It was just as well because it was not easy – mostly down to some of the interesting translations on the English version.

The tour took us around At Turaif, visiting the main areas of the town. The restoration has been beautifully done, although it is so good it almost has a Disneyland feel to it – but we did like it a lot. Most of the buildings have nothing behind the doors and windows apart from the original dilapidated structures. Some of the buildings have been built out and can be visited. We were struck by the beauty of Najdi architecture, characterised by its intricate geometric designs and traditional construction methods. Walking through the narrow alleys, we marvelled at the well-preserved buildings that once housed royals, scholars, and traders.