The Museum of Islamic Art in Doha, designed by architect I. M. Pei, showcases a vast collection of Islamic art spanning 1,400 years, featuring textiles, ceramics, metalwork, and manuscripts from across the Muslim world.
Qatar: Exploring beyond Doha
For our last day in Qatar I decided to spread our wings and leave the sterility of Doha and head out to the undeveloped Qatar.
I had booked us on a tour, which was pricey, but seemed to be the only option other than renting a car for the day.
Our driver and guide for the day was Mohammed Usman, a young Pakistani man who had been brought up in Qatar. Of the country’s population of about three and a bit million only about ten percent are native Qatari.
We left the Grand Regency and set off to pick up a second couple. They were American, but very reserved. Even Karen had trouble getting them to talk.
Today, was a public holiday so the streets were empty at this early hour, especially around the financial district. We did meet some crowds in one district where a half marathon had just finished.
Our first stop was somewhat surprising, a coffee shop. I think this was more for the benefit of the Usman than it was for us, as we all had just had breakfast. I decided to go for Karak, a spicy tea somewhat like chai, everyone else stuck with coffee. My Karak was delicious.
Al Khor
The first real stop was Al Khor, a coastal city, located 50 kilometres (31 mi) north of the capital Doha. It is one of Qatar’s largest cities and dates back to the 18th century. It is one of Qatar’s oldest settlements. The name of the city, meaning creek in Arabic, emerged because the original settlement was built on a creek.
The reason we had come here was to visit the fishing port, which is just about the largest in Qatar. Due to the public holiday there were a lot of fishing boats, mostly traditional dhows moored up, and little activity on them.
Usman took us to the other side of the harbour where the tourist boats leave from. He took us to look around one of his mate’s boats. It was a dhow but not very traditional. Why we were here was not too clear.
From the harbour we drove the very short distance to the fish market. Usman had managed our expectations about how much would be going on, with the holiday, it was surprisingly busy. Unlike the fish market in Doha’s Old Port, this was a real market with people selling fish to haggling customers. Once people had brought their fish, they went to the prep area where they could get their fish de-headed and gutted. We spent a few minutes looking around before hopping back into the car.
Purple Island (Al Khor Island)
It was a short drive to our next stop, a place called Purple Island, also known as Al Khor Island. There are not many green areas in Qatar, and this is one of them. It has become a popular destination for nature lovers, birdwatchers, and those seeking a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of the city.
The island is often referred to as “Purple Island” due to the distinct colour of its mangrove trees and the purple hues that appear in certain lighting. However, it looked very green during our visit with no hint of purple. It was surprising to see mangroves here. The island is made up of a series of mudflats, salt flats, and coastal wetlands that provide vital habitats for various species of wildlife, especially migratory birds.
Purple Island is also home to archaeological sites, which date back to the Bronze age, with remnants of ancient civilisations, including old wells, pottery, and stone structures.
There was not much to see at the archaeological sites, so we settled to look for birds and creatures in the water. The best we managed were a few tiny crabs.
From Purple Island we carried on northwards to Al Zubara Fort
Al Zubara Fort
The fort was built in 1938 by the ruling Al Thani family to protect the region and control the trade routes, especially during the peak of the pearl diving industry. It served as a military stronghold, a defensive structure, and a symbol of power and authority. The fort’s strategic location allowed it to guard against potential invaders and regulate the movement of goods and people in the area.
Looking at the fort, it reminded me of the forts I had seen in the 1939 movie, Beau Geste, about three American brothers who sign up with the French Foreign Legion in North Africa to escape the police.
The architecture of Al Zubara Fort is traditional, with thick stone walls, four corner towers, and a large central courtyard. The fort’s design reflects typical Qatari defensive architecture, with an emphasis on protecting the occupants and storing weapons. Inside, the fort there were exhibits which provided insight into the history and significance of the region, showcasing artifacts related to the pearl industry, ancient trade routes, and Qatari culture.
The fort is small, so it did not take us long to walk the walls and climb the towers. We stopped in one room, which was playing a video on the Al Zubara archaeological site.
The walled coastal town of Al Zubarah in the Persian Gulf flourished as a pearling and trading centre in the late 18th century and early 19th century, before it was destroyed in 1811 and abandoned in the early 1900s. Founded by merchants from Kuwait, Al Zubarah had trading links across the Indian Ocean, Arabia and Western Asia. A layer of sand blown from the desert has protected the remains of the site’s palaces, mosques, streets, courtyard houses, and fishermen’s huts; its harbour and double defensive walls, a canal, walls, and cemeteries. Excavation has only taken place over a small part of the site, which offers an outstanding testimony to an urban trading and pearl-diving tradition which sustained the region’s major coastal towns and led to the development of small independent states that flourished outside the control of the Ottoman, European, and Persian empires and eventually led to the emergence of modern-day Gulf States. The importance of this archaeological site has resulted in it becoming Qatar’s first UNESCO World Heritage site.
The ruins are open to visitors, but you have to join a guided tour. We would have done this, but we were travelling with the American couple, and I am not sure they would have been interested. So, we left Al Zubarah to visit another historic site, Al Jumail.
Al Jumail
Al Jumail is a historic village located close to Al Zubara. It is one of Qatar’s most notable abandoned villages. The village, which was once home to a thriving community, is now a ghost town of ruined buildings made from coral stone and mud brick.
Al Jumail’s heyday was in the 19th and early 20th centuries, when it was a centre for the pearl diving industry. The village was built with traditional Qatari architecture, featuring stone houses, wind towers, and other structures designed to withstand the harsh desert environment. However, with the decline of the pearling industry, Al Jumail was eventually abandoned in the mid-20th century, as residents moved away in search of better economic opportunities.
The village’s ruins are well-preserved and offer a unique opportunity to explore the remains of homes, mosques, and other buildings. The structures, made from coral stone and mud brick, provide insight into the traditional construction methods used in Qatar.
We spent time walking through the ruins of the village, wandering among the outlines of old houses, the remnants of pearling boats, and even the remains of the mosque, which is being restored, all surrounded by the barren desert landscape.
.
Zekreet and Richard Serra’s East-West/West-East
From Al Jumail we began to head southwest towards the coast to an area known as Zekreet.
The limestone rock formations in Zekreet have been sculpted over thousands of years by the forces of wind and erosion, creating a dramatic and otherworldly landscape. The formations include towering cliffs, jagged rocks, and smooth, rounded outcrops, some of which resemble abstract shapes or natural sculptures. This area is particularly renowned for its “mushroom” rocks, which are large, flat-topped stones that sit atop narrower, thinner columns of rock.
We have been lucky enough to have visited some fabulous places with rock formations around the world, and these at Zekreet would not rank highly amongst those!
This desert landscape is also home to a massive, contemporary art installation, which is where we headed next.
Richard Serra, an internationally renowned American sculptor, has made a significant contribution to the art scene in Qatar. His most famous installation is East-West/West-East, a spectacular outdoor sculpture located in the desert near Zekreet. Created in 2014, the piece consists of four massive steel plates, each standing several metres tall, placed at varying angles across a wide, open desert expanse. The installation interacts with the natural landscape, and its size and imposing nature provide a striking contrast to the surrounding terrain.
We love contemporary art and large-scale installations, but this was not our favourite. The structures were tall metallic pillars, which did not excite us a lot. I think some more interesting shapes would have added something.
Al Shahaniya Racetrack
It was getting towards the end of our tour, but we still had one remaining stop, the Al Shahaniya Racetrack, located about 50 kilometres west of Doha. Camel racing, a traditional and highly popular sport in Qatar, where it has been practiced for centuries, and Al Shahaniya stands as the premier racetrack.
The track itself is a sand-based course, designed to accommodate the speed and agility of camels, which can reach impressive speeds of up to 60 kilometres per hour in a race. Naively I thought the camels would have jockeys, but no, they have little robots on their backs with arms with whips on the end. The robots are controlled remotely, to chivvy the camels along. Looked a bit cruel to us.
Ousman pulled up next to a large parking lot full of brand-new Toyota Landcruisers with a cardboard placard on the windscreen with numbers on. These were the prizes for the races in the upcoming race meeting. Only in Qatar (or possibly the UAE or Saudi)!
Apparently many owners keep their racing camels around the racetrack, and we were told that there are ten thousand or more camels in the area. As we had arrived late in the day and many camels were being led in large groups back towards their stables for the night.
We were now done with our tour, so Ousman drove us back to our hotel
Getting Around Doha
The Museum of Islamic Art (MIA) in Doha, Qatar is located on the Doha Corniche. Here’s how you can get there:
🚶 By Foot:
- If you’re staying nearby (like in the Souq Waqif or Corniche area), you can easily walk to the museum via the Corniche promenade. It’s well-lit and safe for pedestrians.
🚗 By Taxi or Ride-hailing Apps:
- Use Karwa (official taxi service), Uber, or Careem to get there.
- Just enter “Museum of Islamic Art” in the app and the driver will know the location.
- Karwa taxis are available at major landmarks, malls, and hotels.
- Approximate fare from central Doha (e.g., Souq Waqif) is QR 10–20.
🚇 By Metro:
- Take the Gold Line and get off at National Museum Station.
- From there, it’s about a 15–20 minute walk along the Corniche, or you can take a short taxi ride.
🚌 By Bus:
- Use the Mowasalat Karwa public bus service.
- Route details are available via the Karwa Bus App.
- Closest bus stop is near the Corniche.
🚴 By Bicycle or Scooter:
- There are bike and scooter rental stations near the Corniche and MIA Park.
- Roads along the Corniche are bike-friendly.
The best time to visit Doha
The best time to visit Doha, Qatar is during the cooler months from November to early April. Here’s a breakdown of what to expect during different seasons:
✅ Best Time: November to Early April
- Weather: Pleasant and mild, with daytime temperatures ranging from 20°C to 30°C (68°F to 86°F).
- Activities: Ideal for outdoor activities like sightseeing, desert safaris, visiting souqs, and walking along the Corniche.
- Events: This is also festival season, with events like the Doha International Book Fair, Qatar International Food Festival, and various sports events.
🌞 Shoulder Season: Late April to Early June
- Weather: Warmer, with temperatures between 30°C and 38°C (86°F to 100°F).
- Activities: You can still enjoy some outdoor activities in the evenings, but mid-day heat can be intense.
- Crowds: Fewer tourists, so hotel rates and flights may be cheaper.
🔥 Avoid: Late June to Early September
- Weather: Extremely hot and humid, with temperatures often exceeding 40°C (104°F) and sometimes reaching 50°C (122°F).
- Activities: Outdoor activities are very limited due to the intense heat.
- Best Bet: If you visit during this time, stick to air-conditioned attractions like museums, shopping malls, and indoor markets.
🍁 Transition Period: October
- Weather: Starts cooling down from the summer peak, with temperatures around 30°C to 35°C (86°F to 95°F).
- Activities: Early evenings are pleasant for walks and outdoor dining.
🎯 Recommendation:
- For the best experience, visit between December and March when the weather is comfortable, and major events and cultural activities are in full swing.
Where to stay in Doha
1. Mid Range: Hampton By Hilton Doha Old Town
Hampton by Hilton Doha Old Town is a modern and stylish hotel located in the heart of Doha, Qatar, offering convenient access to the city’s vibrant cultural and historical landmarks. Situated near the iconic Doha Corniche and the Museum of Islamic Art, the hotel provides an ideal base for exploring the rich heritage and contemporary attractions of the city. Guests can enjoy well-appointed rooms with modern amenities, including complimentary Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, and comfortable bedding. The hotel also features a fitness center, an on-site restaurant serving a variety of international and local dishes, and a business center for those traveling for work. With its friendly service, convenient location, and comfortable accommodations, Hampton by Hilton Doha Old Town is an excellent choice for both business and leisure travelers looking to experience the best of Doha.
2. Luxury – Dusit Doha Hotel
The Dusit Doha Hotel is a luxurious five-star hotel located in the vibrant West Bay district of Doha, Qatar. Known for its elegant Thai-inspired hospitality, the hotel offers a sophisticated blend of contemporary design and traditional Thai touches. It features spacious and well-appointed rooms and suites, along with a range of world-class amenities including a rooftop swimming pool with panoramic city views, a fully equipped fitness center, and the renowned Devarana Spa, which offers rejuvenating Thai treatments. Guests can indulge in a variety of dining options, including international cuisine and authentic Thai dishes. Its prime location near major attractions like the Corniche and City Center Mall makes it a popular choice for both business and leisure travelers seeking comfort, luxury, and a touch of Thai elegance in the heart of Doha.
3. La Villa Suites Hotel
La Villa Suites Hotel Doha is a comfortable and conveniently located hotel in the heart of Doha, Qatar. Known for its warm hospitality and modern amenities, the hotel caters to both business and leisure travelers. It offers well-appointed suites equipped with contemporary furnishings, free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, and kitchenettes, ensuring a comfortable stay. Guests can enjoy a variety of services, including 24-hour front desk assistance, room service, and laundry facilities. Its central location provides easy access to popular attractions such as Souq Waqif, the Museum of Islamic Art, and the Corniche, making it an ideal choice for travelers looking to explore Doha’s vibrant culture and history.
More to Explore
