The Kathmandu Valley in Nepal is a captivating region where ancient temples, bustling markets, and quiet courtyards blend seamlessly with the daily rhythms of local life, creating a unique atmosphere that reflects both deep tradition and the gentle pace of modern change.
Nepal: Pokhara – Gateway to the Annapurna Range
About Pokhara
Pokhara, often described as the jewel of Nepal, lies in a broad valley beneath the towering peaks of the Annapurna range. It is a city of serene lakes, lush hillsides, and breathtaking mountain views that seem almost unreal in their beauty. The most famous of these lakes is Phewa Tal, whose calm waters perfectly reflect the white peaks of Machhapuchhre and Annapurna on clear mornings. Along its shores, colourful boats drift lazily, while small cafés and guesthouses line the lakeside, creating a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. The climate is pleasantly mild, making Pokhara a year-round destination and a refreshing escape from the bustle of Kathmandu. The air feels cleaner here, the pace slower, and the scenery far more peaceful — it is no wonder many travellers describe it as a place to rest and recharge rather than rush through.
Beyond its tranquil setting, Pokhara offers a remarkable range of outdoor adventures that appeal to both casual travellers and seasoned explorers. It is the gateway to some of Nepal’s most famous trekking routes, including the Annapurna Circuit and the trek to Annapurna Base Camp. Many visitors stop here for a few days to prepare for or recover from their Himalayan hikes. Paragliding over Phewa Lake, with snow-capped mountains as a backdrop, is one of the most popular activities, along with zip-lining, mountain biking, and canoeing. The nearby Davis Falls and Gupteshwor Cave showcase nature’s raw beauty, while the World Peace Pagoda — perched high on a hill — offers panoramic views across the valley. Early risers often head to Sarangkot to watch the sunrise, where the first golden light touches the summits of the Annapurna range in a breathtaking display that seems to set the peaks ablaze.
Yet Pokhara’s charm is not only in its scenery and adventure; it also lies in its calm rhythm of life and the warmth of its people. The lakeside area is filled with shops selling traditional handicrafts, colourful prayer flags, and singing bowls, while cosy cafés play soft music and serve everything from local dal bhat to vegan-friendly international dishes. Spiritual retreats, yoga centres, and meditation classes are easy to find, adding to the sense of peace that defines the city. In the evening, as the sun sets over the water and the hills turn purple, the city takes on a magical glow. The sound of temple bells mingles with laughter from the lakeside restaurants, and reflections of light shimmer across the water. Pokhara feels like a meeting place of nature and spirit — a city that invites visitors not only to explore its beauty but to slow down and simply be present within it.
Our two day visit to Pokhara
From Shiva’s Hillside to the Himalayan Trails: Exploring Pokhara and Beyond
Our time in Pokhara began with clear skies, cool air, and a sense of quiet excitement. The city, set beside the mirror-like Phewa Lake and watched over by the snowy Annapurna range, is a place of remarkable calm. But before we explored its busy lakeside streets, our first stop took us up high — to the village of Pumdikot, perched 1,500 metres above the valley floor.
🛕 The Majestic Shiva of Pumdikot
From the winding road below, we had caught glimpses of the newly built giant statue of Lord Shiva, gleaming in the morning light. But nothing quite prepared us for the sight up close. The statue stands on a podium over 17 metres high, and the figure of Shiva himself rises a further 15 metres above that. It was built in Mathura, India, and later transported here to Nepal — a remarkable feat of faith and engineering. Around 90% of Nepalis follow Hinduism, so statues like this are more than just art; they are powerful expressions of devotion.
We were dropped a short walk from the top and made our way slowly up the hill. As we approached, we could see the fine detail of the statue — the flowing locks, the poised trident, the calm face looking out towards the mountains. Around the circular podium, a tiny mechanical Ganesha statue circled on rails, pulling a small carriage. It was whimsical and unexpected — almost like something from a Hindu theme park. Yet, it brought a smile to our faces and added to the site’s charm.
We took our time wandering around the statue, taking in the views. Below us, Pokhara shimmered in the distance, and beyond that, the vast Himalayas — silent, snow-covered and unchanging. The site is still being developed, with plans for a Martyrs’ Memorial Park, a model of Mount Sumeru featuring Shiva and Parvati, and facilities to ensure full accessibility. It is clear that Pumdikot is destined to become one of Pokhara’s great pilgrimage and tourist spots.
☸️ The Peaceful Heights of Shanti Stupa
Descending from Pumdikot, we didn’t travel far before reaching our second stop — the World Peace Pagoda, or Shanti Stupa. Sitting high on another ridge overlooking Pokhara, the white dome gleamed brilliantly under the midday sun. “Shanti” means peace in Sanskrit, and this stupa was built by the Japanese Buddhist organisation Nipponzan-Myōhōji-Daisanga as part of a global network of peace monuments.
We began the climb up the stone steps, passing a line of souvenir vendors offering prayer flags, small Buddhas, and incense. The final stretch was steep, but the reward at the top was worth every step. The pagoda was pure white, almost glowing, and we removed our shoes before circling it clockwise, admiring the four Buddha images set into golden alcoves representing important moments from his life.
The panoramic view from here was breathtaking — Phewa Lake, Pokhara’s rooftops, and the distant Annapurna Range, all spread out like a painting. On the way down, we stopped at a small café shaded by trees, where we sipped locally grown organic coffee and took in the valley below. It was peaceful and perfect.
🕯️ Stories of Exile: The Tibetan Refugee Settlement
Our next stop took us into a quieter part of Pokhara — a Tibetan refugee settlement. These settlements, established after Tibet’s annexation by China in the 1950s, are now home to thousands of Tibetans who made Nepal their home. The community we visited was small but vibrant.
We entered a modest museum before it closed for lunch, where the displays told of Tibet’s invasion, the Dalai Lama’s flight into exile, and the difficult life many refugees have faced in Nepal. There were faded photographs, maps of the Himalayan crossings, and panels describing international support. The tone was both proud and sad — proud of their heritage, yet mournful for a homeland left behind.
Outside, we browsed the small carpet shops and admired the traditional woven belts and blankets. Karen, ever drawn to textiles, found a beautiful woollen throw that she couldn’t resist. Before leaving, we stopped by a small monastery where young monks, barely in their teens, laughed and played after their morning lessons. Their bright robes and infectious smiles added warmth to an otherwise sombre visit.
🌊 Into the Depths: Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave
From there, we drove towards one of Pokhara’s most visited sites — Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva. The cave was formed by the Seti River, which vanishes underground nearby. Inside, a naturally formed Shiva Lingam was discovered in the 16th century, transforming this hidden space into a sacred shrine.
We descended steep steps into the cool, damp cave, joining a steady stream of pilgrims and tourists. The narrow passages were low and twisting, lit only by dim bulbs and the flicker of candles. Karen, who suffers from claustrophobia, turned back halfway, while I continued through the tight tunnel. Eventually, it opened into a vast chamber where the river thundered down from above — a dramatic sight, half-hidden by mist. It was both eerie and beautiful.
Outside, we crossed to a small park where the Seti River disappears into the earth, a churning torrent of white water. It was fascinating to think of that same river rushing beneath the streets of Pokhara before re-emerging further downstream.
🏔️ The International Mountain Museum
Our final stop of the day was the International Mountain Museum, set in beautiful grounds with wide lawns and panoramic views of the Annapurna Range. The building itself felt like an aircraft hangar, its large windows framing the peaks beyond.
Inside, the exhibits began with displays on Nepal’s ethnic mountain communities, showing their traditional clothing, tools, and homes. It was fascinating to see how these people have adapted to life at high altitude for centuries. The next section, my personal favourite, explored the world’s fourteen 8,000-metre peaks, from Everest to Shishapangma. Each display shared the stories of the first ascents — triumphs, tragedies, and human endurance in the “death zone.”
Other exhibits focused on climate change, mountaineering gear, and geological formations. A section sponsored by South Korea honoured that country’s climbers and their achievements in the Himalayas. Before leaving, we watched a short documentary in the auditorium, which sadly lacked the quality of the films we’ve seen in U.S. national parks — a missed opportunity for such a majestic subject. Still, stepping back outside to see the Himalayas glowing in the afternoon sun lifted our spirits once more.
It had been a full, rewarding day — one that blended faith, culture, and adventure. We returned to our hotel, showered off the dust, and headed back to our favourite Spice Restaurant for a well-earned dinner. Once again, the meal was superb — simple, fragrant, and inexpensive — the perfect end to our day in Pokhara.
Day 2
🥾 Hiking to Australian Camp
The next morning began with a sense of anticipation — and a new mantra echoing in our heads: “Camino, Camino.” Every trek we do now feels like preparation for our plan to walk the Camino Portugués next year. Today’s goal was a hike to Australian Camp, a viewpoint in the hills above Pokhara.
At 8 a.m., we met our cheerful guide, Narayan, and our fellow hiker, Federica, from northern Italy. A short drive took us to the starting point at Phedi, with a stop along the way for tea and a last glimpse of the Annapurna peaks.
The trail began as a long staircase rising steadily through fields and forest. It wasn’t too steep, but the altitude soon made itself felt, and Karen’s heart raced with the effort. Narayan kindly offered to carry her daypack, allowing her to continue more comfortably. His lively stories about local legends and the mountains helped distract us from the climb.
After two and a half hours of ascent, we reached Australian Camp — known locally as Thulo Kharka, meaning “big pasture.” In the 1980s, Austrian trekkers camped here and were so enchanted by its peace and views that locals began calling it “Austrian Camp.” The name gradually evolved to “Australian Camp,” easier for Nepali tongues to pronounce.
The view was stunning: the Annapurna Range stretched before us, with Machhapuchhre (Fishtail Mountain) shining in the distance. Marigolds bloomed all around, and the air was crisp and clear. We settled at a small café for steaming mugs of chai and green tea, watching others swing on a traditional Nepali bamboo swing — sturdy enough for adults and positioned perfectly for mountain views. Naturally, we couldn’t resist having a go ourselves!
From the main camp, we followed a narrow ridge trail towards Dhampus, passing grazing buffalo and quiet terraced farms. The path dipped and rose, lined with trees and small shrines. Occasionally, noisy groups of tourists broke the peace, but the beauty of the landscape quickly restored it.
In Dhampus, we paused to watch a woman weaving on a loom outside her home. Karen joined her briefly to admire her work and ended up buying a handwoven wool blanket — a perfect keepsake. We later stopped for lunch at a rooftop café overlooking the valley, the sun soft and golden.
From the main camp, we followed a narrow ridge trail towards Dhampus, passing grazing buffalo and quiet terraced farms. The path dipped and rose, lined with trees and small shrines. Occasionally, noisy groups of tourists broke the peace, but the beauty of the landscape quickly restored it.
In Dhampus, we paused to watch a woman weaving on a loom outside her home. Karen joined her briefly to admire her work and ended up buying a handwoven wool blanket — a perfect keepsake. We later stopped for lunch at a rooftop café overlooking the valley, the sun soft and golden.
Getting to and around Pokhara
✈️ Getting to Pokhara
By air
One of the quickest ways is to fly from Kathmandu to Pokhara. Airlines like Buddha Air, Yeti Airlines and Shree Airlines offer frequent domestic services.
If you’re flying, you may find an offer via the “Yeti Travel Card” from Yeti Airlines: 10 tickets for NPR 25,000 (valid for four months on domestic routes).
By road (bus or private car)
Travelling by bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara is popular and relatively economical. The journey takes roughly 6-9 hours, depending on road and weather conditions.
You’ll find standard local buses as well as “tourist” or VIP buses with more comfort. The VIP versions may cost more but include better seats and amenities.
If you choose a private car it offers flexibility, but the time savings versus a good bus may be modest.
🚍 Getting around Pokhara
Local buses, minivans & shared transport
Within Pokhara city, you’ll find local buses, minibuses and shared vans operating on set and informal routes. Fares tend to be low (for example, around NPR 30 or so for many local trips), though you may need to ask locals about route info.
Because some routes may be confusing for first-time visitors, it’s good to ask your hotel or guesthouse for help with which bus to catch.
Taxis & ride-hailing
Taxis are available and relatively affordable compared to many Western countries, though you may still need to negotiate or confirm a price.
There is a ride-hailing app available in Pokhara called inDrive (works somewhat like Uber), which users report is reliable and a good option.
Hiring scooters or motorbikes
If you’re comfortable driving in Asia and have the required licence, scooter or motorbike hire is possible and gives you more freedom to explore beyond the main tourist hubs.
Walking & Lakeside area
Many of the core attractions in Pokhara (especially the Lakeside area) can be explored on foot. This is nice because you don’t have to rely on transport for every short hop.
🧳 Travel card / passes & useful websites
The Yeti Travel Card mentioned above (for domestic flights) is one card that may interest you.
- For bus travel daily in the city or region, I did not find a widely-advertised “city travel card” system in Pokhara akin to those in very large cities.
For booking tourist bus transfers (e.g., Pokhara to Kathmandu) you can look at websites such as Klook, which list services in advance.
✅ Practical tips
Have small notes ready for local bus fares — conductors may struggle with giving change.
If you plan to explore outside Pokhara (rural routes or hills) check vehicle/road condition and allow extra time.
Always verify whether a quoted price is inclusive of all passengers/loads (especially for private hire).
Travel early in the day if possible for road journeys to avoid surprises from weather or road works.
If hiring a scooter/motorbike: check condition, helmet availability and local licence requirements.
The best time to visit Pokhara
Pokhara, with its serene lakes, snow-capped peaks, and laid-back atmosphere, is one of Nepal’s most visited destinations. The city’s charm changes beautifully with each season, offering something different throughout the year — from crystal-clear mountain views to misty monsoon mornings and lively festival seasons. Understanding the seasonal variations can help you plan the perfect trip, whether you’re seeking outdoor adventure, photography opportunities, or peaceful relaxation by Phewa Lake.
🌸 Spring (March to May)
Spring is one of the most popular times to visit Pokhara. The weather is pleasantly warm, with daytime temperatures ranging between 16°C and 28°C, making it ideal for outdoor exploration. The skies are usually clear, offering incredible visibility of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. The valleys and hillsides come alive with blooming rhododendrons — Nepal’s national flower — turning the forests into vivid carpets of red and pink.
This season is perfect for trekking, paragliding, and sightseeing. Routes like the Annapurna Base Camp and Ghorepani Poon Hill are particularly rewarding, offering panoramic views and comfortable hiking conditions. The city buzzes with travellers and events, so accommodation should be booked in advance.
🌞 Summer / Monsoon (June to September)
The monsoon months bring frequent rainfall and lush greenery to Pokhara. Temperatures stay warm, between 20°C and 30°C, but heavy afternoon showers are common. The surrounding hills and rice terraces turn a deep, vibrant green, and waterfalls are at their fullest — including the dramatic Devi’s Fall, which becomes especially powerful at this time.
Although trekking is more challenging due to muddy trails and leeches, this season offers peace and lower prices. It’s perfect for travellers who don’t mind occasional rain and wish to experience the region in its most natural and quiet state. Carrying an umbrella and waterproof clothing is essential, and morning activities are best planned before the clouds roll in.
🍂 Autumn (October to November)
Autumn is considered the very best time to visit Pokhara. The monsoon clears the dust from the air, leaving skies crisp and views of the Himalayas spectacularly clear. Daytime temperatures hover around 15°C to 25°C, and the air is fresh, making it perfect for trekking, boating, and mountain photography.
This is also festival season in Nepal, with Dashain and Tihar bringing colour and celebration to the streets. The lakes shimmer under the bright sunshine, and paragliding conditions are ideal. Unsurprisingly, this is the busiest period for tourism — early reservations for hotels and trekking guides are strongly recommended.
❄️ Winter (December to February)
Winter in Pokhara is cool and calm, with average temperatures ranging from 8°C to 20°C. The mornings and evenings can be chilly, especially in the higher altitudes, but daytime weather is sunny and comfortable. The mountain views are consistently clear, and the city has a quieter, more reflective atmosphere.
For those seeking peace and a slower pace, winter is a wonderful choice. It’s great for short hikes, lakeside walks, and scenic flights over the Himalayas. Fewer crowds mean better deals on accommodation, though warm clothing — especially jackets, jumpers, and scarves — is essential.
🎒 What to Pack
Spring / Autumn: Light layers, hiking shoes, sun protection, hat, and light jacket for evenings.
Summer / Monsoon: Quick-dry clothing, umbrella, rain jacket, insect repellent, and waterproof footwear.
Winter: Warm layers, fleece or down jacket, gloves, and sturdy shoes.
Year-round essentials: Sunscreen, reusable water bottle, sunglasses, and a camera for those unforgettable views.
📊 Seasonal Summary
| Season | Temperature | Weather | Highlights | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 🌸 Spring (Mar–May) | 16°C–28°C | Clear skies, blooming flowers | Rhododendrons, trekking, paragliding | Outdoor adventures |
| 🌧️ Monsoon (Jun–Sep) | 20°C–30°C | Rainy, lush greenery | Waterfalls, peace, low prices | Nature lovers, budget travellers |
| 🍁 Autumn (Oct–Nov) | 15°C–25°C | Clear, mild | Festivals, perfect views, trekking | Best overall experience |
| ❄️ Winter (Dec–Feb) | 8°C–20°C | Cool, sunny | Clear skies, fewer crowds | Relaxed sightseeing |
🌄 Overall Best Time to Visit
While Pokhara is beautiful throughout the year, autumn (October to November) stands out as the best time to visit. The weather is comfortably warm, the mountain views are at their sharpest, and the festive energy fills the city with colour and joy. Whether you’re gliding through the skies over Phewa Lake, trekking beneath the Annapurnas, or simply watching the sunset from a lakeside café, this is when Pokhara reveals its most enchanting side.
Where to stay in Pokhara
1. Mid Range: Hotel Silver Oaks Inn
The Hotel Silver Oaks Inn in Pokhara is a charming mid-range hotel that offers a peaceful retreat just a short walk from the lively Lakeside area. Tucked away on a quiet street, it provides the perfect balance between convenience and tranquillity, making it an ideal base for exploring the city and its beautiful surroundings. The rooms are clean, bright, and comfortably furnished, many with balconies that overlook the lush garden or the distant peaks of the Annapurna range. Guests often praise the warm hospitality of the staff, who go out of their way to ensure a relaxed and welcoming stay, whether by helping to arrange treks, transport, or local sightseeing. The hotel also has a lovely garden courtyard where breakfast is served each morning, surrounded by flowers and shaded by trees—a calm spot to start the day. Free Wi-Fi, hot showers, and reliable power backup add to the comfort, while the location means restaurants, shops, and Phewa Lake are all within easy reach on foot. Overall, Hotel Silver Oaks Inn combines friendly service, good value, and a restful setting, making it a favourite choice for travellers looking for comfort without the crowds in the heart of Pokhara.
2. Luxury – Sarangkot Mountain Lodge
Perched high on a ridge overlooking the Pokhara Valley, Sarangkot Mountain Lodge is one of those places that captures the very essence of peace and panoramic beauty. Located just below the famous Sarangkot viewpoint, it offers uninterrupted views of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges, as well as the shimmering waters of Phewa Lake far below. The lodge blends modern comfort with natural charm, featuring beautifully designed rooms that open out onto private balconies where guests can watch the sunrise over the Himalayas or the evening mist settle across the hills. Built using local stone and wood, the architecture reflects the textures and tones of the surrounding landscape, while the interiors are warm, minimalist, and elegant. There’s an infinity pool that seems to merge with the mountains beyond, and a fine restaurant serving Nepali and international cuisine made with fresh local produce. Evenings at the lodge are peaceful, with cool mountain air, soft lighting, and the distant sounds of nature filling the silence. For those seeking quiet luxury, breathtaking scenery, and an escape from Pokhara’s bustle below, Sarangkot Mountain Lodge is easily one of the most memorable places to stay in Nepal.
3. Budget – Hotel Forest Lake Backpackers’ Hostel
The Forest Lake Backpackers’ Hostel in Pokhara is one of those relaxed, friendly places that instantly feels like home. Tucked away on a quiet side street just a short walk from Phewa Lake, it offers a peaceful retreat while still being close to the heart of Lakeside’s cafés, restaurants, and shops. The hostel has a welcoming atmosphere that attracts travellers from all over the world, with plenty of communal areas where guests can sit and chat, share travel stories, or simply relax with a book. The rooms are clean and simple, with both dormitory beds and private rooms available, many offering lovely views of the surrounding hills or the garden below. There’s a rooftop terrace that becomes a popular gathering spot in the evenings, especially at sunset when the mountains glow in the distance. The staff are known for their warmth and helpfulness, always ready to suggest hiking routes, organise paragliding or boat trips, or just point you towards the best local vegan food. With its laid-back vibe, budget-friendly prices, and great location, Forest Lake Backpackers’ Hostel is a perfect base for anyone looking to enjoy the calm beauty of Pokhara while meeting like-minded travellers.
More to Explore
