Pokhara, set against the dramatic backdrop of the Annapurna range, is a relaxed lakeside city in Nepal where visitors come to enjoy boating on Phewa Lake, stroll along the waterfront, and use it as a gateway for treks into the Himalayas.
Nepal: Kathmandu Valley
About the Kathmandu Valley
Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, sits in a wide and fertile valley surrounded by the Himalayan foothills, a place where ancient tradition and modern bustle meet in fascinating contrast. The city is a living museum of art, religion, and culture, with narrow winding streets lined with shrines, courtyards, and temples that have stood for centuries. The scent of incense mingles with the sound of prayer bells, bicycle horns, and chanting monks, creating a sensory experience unlike anywhere else. At its heart lies Durbar Square, once the royal palace complex, where intricately carved wooden windows, pagoda-style roofs, and sacred statues bear witness to the craftsmanship of the Newar artisans who built the city. Despite the scars left by the 2015 earthquake, Kathmandu retains its spirit of resilience, with restoration efforts breathing life back into its priceless heritage.
Beyond the historic centre, Kathmandu unfolds as a patchwork of bustling neighbourhoods, each with its own rhythm and charm. Thamel, the city’s tourist hub, is a maze of colourful shops selling prayer flags, trekking gear, pashmina scarves, and handmade jewellery. It’s also where travellers gather in lively cafés and rooftop restaurants after days spent exploring the surrounding valleys or preparing for Himalayan treks. Yet a short walk away can lead to peaceful courtyards where locals gather to light butter lamps or spin prayer wheels. The ancient stupas of Swayambhunath – also known as the Monkey Temple – and Boudhanath rise above the cityscape, their watchful eyes symbolising wisdom and compassion. Both are pilgrimage sites that attract devotees from across the Buddhist world, offering calm reflection amid the city’s constant motion.
Kathmandu’s cultural richness extends beyond its temples and monuments; it lives in its people, festivals, and daily rhythms. The city hosts an astonishing number of celebrations throughout the year, from the colourful Holi festival to the sacred Dashain and Tihar, when homes are decorated with oil lamps and marigolds. Street vendors sell momos, spicy dumplings that have become a staple of Nepali cuisine, and sweet chai is served in every corner shop. Though the traffic and pollution can sometimes overwhelm, there is a deep sense of warmth and hospitality that defines Kathmandu. It is a city that invites exploration and rewards curiosity – a place where history is not confined to museums but flows through everyday life, connecting the ancient with the modern in an unbroken thread of tradition.
Our visit to the Kathmandu Valley
Kathmandu Days: Temples, Stupas and a Living Goddess
We had limited time in Kathmandu, so we decided to organise two days of guided tours of the sights of the Kathmandu Valley.
At 8:00 am on the first day of our stay, we met our guide for the next couple of days, Ashok, in the reception of the Aagantuk Hotel. We had requested the same driver who collected us from the airport because he felt safe and steady.. Ashok ran through the day’s plan and made sure we had water and anything we needed. The morning air was cool, the traffic already busy, and we set off with that nice mix of excitement and nerves you get on the first proper day in a new city. The drive out of central Kathmandu was a slow weave through narrow streets, roadside stalls, motorbikes, and pedestrians, all moving with their own rhythm.
🛕 Budhanilkantha Temple — Sleeping Vishnu Among Locals
Our first stop was Budhanilkantha Temple, about 10 km from the centre. It is less visited by foreign tourists and has the feeling of a neighbourhood shrine woven into daily life. The temple is devoted to Lord Vishnu and sits outdoors, which gives it a simple and open character. Its focus is a 5-metre reclining statue of Vishnu carved from a single piece of dark basalt, said to date back to the seventh century. The statue rests on a plinth within a 13-metre tank of water. Vishnu lies back on the coiled serpent Shesha, whose many heads fan out to support him. Vishnu’s legs are crossed, his four hands hold the conch, lotus, discus and club, and the whole scene feels calm and timeless.
When we arrived, there were many devotees, including a few young priests. They stepped into the inner enclosure and placed flowers on the statue of Lord Vishnu.. The air was filled with the smell of incense and marigolds. Ashok stood with us to one side and talked gently about the temple’s history and the place of Hinduism in Nepal, where most people identify as Hindu. The temple complex is small and intimate, ringed by homes, with a scattering of tiny shrines where people paused to pray, leave offerings and take a moment out of the rush. It was a peaceful start and set the tone for the day.
🐒 Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple) — A Hill of Myth and Wide Views
Our second destination was Swayambhunath, a Buddhist stupa on a little hill not far from the city centre, and one of the most iconic places in Kathmandu. Many people call it the Monkey Temple because of the macaques that roam the grounds. Street dogs also snooze in every patch of shade. We were dropped at the lower gate and started up the path with Ashok. Small shrines were tucked into the greenery and prayer flags hung everywhere, bright against the sky. It felt spiritual from the very first step. Families were out because of the holiday, and there was a cheerful, festive mood.
Ashok told us the old origin story as we walked. Kathmandu Valley, so the story goes, was once a great lake with a miraculous lotus that gave off a brilliant light. The Bodhisattva Manjushri came, cut a gorge with his sword, drained the water and turned the lotus into a hill — and the light became Swayambhunath. When we reached the top we stopped in our tracks. The stupa’s white dome was large and clean, shining in the sun. Above it sat the gold-coloured harmika with the all-seeing eyes of Buddha painted on four sides and the hint of a third eye above. Between the eyes sat a curving Nepali number “one”, a reminder, people say, of unity and the single path out of suffering. A tall golden spire rose above it all. From the terrace the views spread across Kathmandu and the valley, with shy glimpses of the Himalayas in the distance. We stood there for a long moment, soaking it in.
Back near the stupa, we found the mighty vajra — the ritual symbol of diamond strength and thunderbolt power — set out like a landmark. We walked clockwise around the stupa, turning prayer wheels and peering into smaller shrines with their carved details and flickering lamps. Groups came and went, including a cheerful party of Zen Buddhist ladies from Japan, guided by a monk who led them in quiet prayers and little bows. The mix of pilgrims, families and tourists felt natural and welcoming.
From the stupa Ashok led us down a lane to a thangka shop run by a local family. The walls were lined with paintings in deep reds, blues and golds, each full of symbols. The owners’ children were delighted to practise their English and their grandmother, serene and sharp, kept a gentle eye on things while Mum and Dad handled customers. In one of the inner galleries, the owner explained the history of thangka painting, its role in devotion, and the layers of meaning inside the mandalas.
We learned how a mandala — a “circle” in Sanskrit — maps a sacred universe. You move towards the centre in your mind, letting the chaos fall away, and the design guides your thoughts into focus. Each mandala holds different symbols, so it takes study to read them properly. We had not intended to buy anything, but the paintings drew us in. Sizes, levels of detail and quality ranged widely, as did prices. After some careful thinking, we chose a small piece we could carry home. As we were saying our goodbyes, the grandmother mentioned, almost in passing, that she had once been a senior politician involved in writing the Nepalese Constitution. It was one of those surprising travel moments that make a day stick in your mind.
🏰 Patan Durbar Square — Palaces, Courtyards and Dashain
Next we drove to Patan (Lalitpur), the city of artisans, about 5 km from Kathmandu. Patan Durbar Square sits at the heart of the old city and was once the palace complex of Patan’s kings. Much has been restored after the 2015 earthquake, and the work continues, but the square still carries a grand air. We followed Ashok through the main square and into Mul Chowk, slipping through a small doorway into a quiet courtyard.
A crowd had gathered for a Dashain event. Local performers wore colourful costumes and large masks, and musicians played traditional instruments. Dashain celebrates Durga, the Universal Mother Goddess, and in Nepal it runs for fifteen days. One tradition involves animal sacrifice, and from my vantage point I saw the difficult part — first a goat, then a buffalo. It was upsetting to watch, especially as a vegan, and we moved away quickly. Culture can be beautiful and hard in the same breath.
Out in the open air again, we crossed to Sundari Chowk, which is one of the loveliest courtyards in the palace. It is surrounded by a three-storey building with cloisters and carved wooden panels. In the centre sits Tusha Hiti, a small ceremonial bathing pool with stone lions, a golden spout and intricate carvings all the way down the curved steps. The workmanship is astonishing; you can stand there and keep noticing new details every minute.
Ashok took us to Mani Keshar Chowk, home to the Golden Gate Museum, and used the moment for a smoke break while we explored. The museum spreads over three floors and holds more than 200 objects, mostly sculptures of Hindu and Buddhist deities made in the valley, many in Patan’s own workshops. The pieces range across centuries and materials, and the labels helped make sense of the styles and symbols. It’s the kind of place where you could linger, but we kept a steady pace.
After the museum we went to a workshop that offers singing-bowl sound therapy. The bowls, tuned to chakras, are used to create vibrations that many people find calming and restorative. They selected bowls for us based on our birth signs: Karen (Capricorn) was matched with the root chakra; I (Gemini) with the throat chakra. Karen sat while the practitioner placed the bowl on different points and struck it gently. For the head, the bowl rested upside down on her crown. Then it was my turn. The sound carried through bone and skin like a soft current. At one point he held the bowl just off my back and struck it; I could feel the pulsing in the air. There was a giant bowl you stand in, which he demonstrated with a resonant hum that filled the room. If baggage and home storage were no issue, we would have bought one on the spot.
We stopped for a late lunch at a small restaurant with a view across a square to a lovely temple. Afterwards, walking back through Patan’s lanes, we revisited a temple that had been crowded earlier. Now it was quieter, and we happened upon a ceremony with a very young monk. He donned heavy silver sandals, came outside carrying a log on his shoulder, and the older monks chanted as incense drifted across the courtyard. The log was struck several times, there was a moment of stillness, and then the child returned inside. Ashok, who has guided for years, said he had never seen that particular ceremony before. We felt lucky.
🏁 Evening in Kathmandu Durbar Square — Tickets and the Kumari’s House
Back in Kathmandu, our final stop was Durbar Square. With closing time approaching, Ashok gave us a brisk orientation. A friend of his appeared with the unique double-pennant Nepali flag, which made for a fun photo. We stepped into the courtyard of the Kumari Ghar, the residence of the living goddess, and Ashok urged us to return the next day for a proper glimpse because she often appears in the morning. He also arranged for our entry tickets to be specially extended so we could come back for a fuller visit. On the way to the car we bought fruit for dinner and, thanks to Ashok, paid local prices rather than “tourist” ones. It had been a long, fascinating first full day in Nepal.
Day Two
📅 29 October — Bhaktapur, a Towering Temple and a Grand Stupa
Day two began with a drive to Bhaktapur, the smallest city in Nepal and once the seat of its own kingdom. We entered near Taumadhi Square, where the Nyatapola Temple rises 33 metres, the tallest temple in Nepal. Early light and thin crowds made it perfect for photos. We climbed the steep, slightly nerve-testing steps to the top of the pedestal and were rewarded with a wide view over the square.
From there we wandered towards Bhaktapur Durbar Square, stepping through a lane into a broad space lined with temples and the Royal Palace. Many buildings have been lost to earthquakes over the centuries, but enough remains to feel the old grandeur. We paused at the Mini Pashupatinath (Yaksheswara Mahadev), a small replica of the famous temple in Kathmandu, built by King Yaksha Malla in the late 15th century. Its roof struts include frankly carved erotic panels — surprising at first glance, but part of a long tradition of temple art.
We visited the 55-Window Palace, built by King Jitamitra Malla. The highlight is the Golden Door, an ornate, gleaming entrance that leads to Mulchok Court and the Taleju Temple. The temple is deeply venerated and only open to those born into Hindu families. Some tourists grumbled about access, but we took it as a local custom to be respected and moved on. Nearby, the Naga Pokhari royal pool, edged by sinuous stone serpents and a dramatic dhara spout, added another beautiful corner to the complex.
We left through the Golden Gate and drifted along streets towards Pottery Square, watching artisans shape clay and set dark pots out to dry. Shops sold handsome crafts and gifts, and although we were tempted we resisted, thinking of luggage space and our onward travel. Reunited with our driver, we turned for Kathmandu again, with one more major stop ahead.
🧿 Boudhanath — A Vast White Dome and Quiet Above the Streets
Boudhanath Stupa sits about 11 km from central Kathmandu and is one of the largest stupas in the world. The first version was built after 600 CE; the present structure is later. The approach takes you through a short entrance and then, quite suddenly, into a wide, enclosed square ringed by several-storey buildings. The stupa dominates the space — about 100 metres across and over 30 metres high — bright white with a golden top and Buddha eyes looking out. In the early morning and evening, devotees circle clockwise in large numbers; at midday, it was calmer, with monks, travellers and small groups moving in a slow flow.
Ashok tugged us into a dim temple off the square to spin a massive prayer wheel. Afterwards we climbed to a café terrace for hot honey lemon and a view across the dome. A Canadian long-distance runner, in town to start his Everest Base Camp trek, joined us and chatted about altitude and acclimatisation. It was pleasant to sit there, looking down on the square and the steady, thoughtful pace of those circumambulating.
🔱 Pashupatinath — Ritual, River and Fire
Our last stop was Pashupatinath Temple on the Bagmati River, one of Hinduism’s most sacred sites in Nepal. Non-Hindus cannot enter the main temple, but the wider complex is open, and much of the ritual life takes place along the riverbanks. Pashupatinath is a major cremation ground, a place where many come to die, be cremated and have their ashes carried to the Ganges via the Bagmati.
When we arrived, cremations were under way. Families were preparing bodies near the water, washing faces, hands and feet with river water, and saying quiet farewells. On the opposite side we could see the concrete cremation platforms with metal frames, one of them garlanded with orange flowers for a person of status. We sat on the steps across the river to observe in a respectful way. After a while a group of Gurkha soldiers in dress uniform arrived, some with instruments, others with rifles, and stood to attention near the decorated pyre. The family rites were completed, the soldiers played — even “taps”, which brought a tear to Karen’s eye — and the pyre was lit. Next to it, a more ordinary funeral followed the same path. Side by side, the two ceremonies felt like a stark reminder that in the end everyone takes the same final step.
Day 3
📅 A Glimpse of a Goddess, and Palaces Old and New
Our plan was to return to Kathmandu Durbar Square for the museum and to try to see the living goddess, the Royal Kumari, at the Kumari Ghar. We went straight to the Kumari Ghar and joined the small crowd in the carved courtyard. The Kumari appeared briefly — a little girl, solemn and not at all keen on the attention — and then vanished again. The whole moment lasted only seconds, which somehow made it feel more real.
We continued to Hanuman Dhoka, the old royal palace complex, much of it damaged in the 2015 earthquake. The entrance is guarded by a cloaked statue of Hanuman and leads into Nasal Chowk, the largest courtyard, where perfect woodcarvings run along the façades. To one side stands the rare circular pagoda of Panch Mukhi Hanuman; at the other end rises Basantapur Tower, nine storeys tall with a copper pinnacle. Some parts remain under repair, so the museum is split, but even so, you get a strong sense of scale and history.
On the edge of the square, the white neoclassical Gaddi Baithak stands out from the older buildings. Heavily damaged in 2015, it was repaired and now houses a museum. We paid the small fee and walked first into the ballroom — high-ceilinged, chandeliered, polished — where state receptions are held. Downstairs, an excellent exhibit explains the restoration methods and, in a second part, Nepal’s long journey towards a modern democracy. It traces decades of political struggle, constitutions and elections, and how the 2015 constitution reshaped the state as federal, secular and republican. The displays are clear and fair, and they gave us good context for the buildings we had been visiting all week.
☕ Wrapping Up and Looking Ahead
With the main sights done, we wandered back towards the Aagantuk Hotel, stopping for drinks on the way and making a simple plan for the evening. Tomorrow we would travel on to Pokhara — a long day ahead — so we organised our bags and took a quiet dinner back at our familiar Sherpa spot. It felt like the right way to end three packed days: unhurried, content, and grateful for all we had seen.
Getting around the Kathmandu Valley
🚍 Public Transport in Kathmandu Valley
Getting around Kathmandu Valley is an adventure in itself, and understanding the local transport options can make travelling between its towns and attractions much easier. The public transport system here mainly relies on buses, minibuses, microvans, and tempos (three-wheelers) rather than a metro or tram service. These vehicles connect Kathmandu with nearby Patan (Lalitpur) and Bhaktapur, forming a busy and affordable network that locals use daily. Fares are inexpensive and usually paid directly to a conductor inside the vehicle. Popular routes link areas such as Thamel, Durbar Marg, Boudhanath, and Patan Durbar Square. Though schedules can be irregular and vehicles sometimes crowded, they offer a fascinating glimpse into local life. For a more comfortable ride, visitors can opt for tourist buses and shuttle vans that operate between major hotels, heritage sites, and even long-distance routes to Pokhara or Chitwan.
🚶 Walking and Cycling
Kathmandu is a city best experienced at a slow pace. Many of its most fascinating areas — like Thamel, Ason Bazaar, and Durbar Square — are compact and filled with narrow streets best explored on foot. Walking lets you soak in the atmosphere of busy markets, prayer wheels spinning in temple courtyards, and street vendors selling colourful wares. However, pavements can be uneven, and traffic unpredictable, so it’s wise to stay alert. For those who enjoy cycling, it’s becoming increasingly popular in the valley, particularly on quieter roads leading towards Budhanilkantha, Pashupatinath, or the ring road edges. A few local bike hire shops in Thamel and Lazimpat offer rentals by the day. Cycling in early morning hours is most pleasant before traffic builds up, and for more adventurous travellers, guided cycling tours to nearby villages provide an unforgettable rural escape.
🚖 Taxis, Rideshares, and Car Hire
Taxis are plentiful in Kathmandu and are the most convenient way to travel between major sights if you wish to avoid crowded buses. Always choose metered taxis (look for the red number plate) and ensure the meter is turned on before starting the journey. Short rides around the city centre are inexpensive by Western standards, though prices may rise at night or during rain. Ridesharing apps such as Pathao and InDrive have gained popularity and often provide fairer rates than haggling with street taxis. Car hire with driver is available through most hotels and travel agencies, ideal for day trips to places like Nagarkot, Bhaktapur, or Dakshinkali Temple. Driving yourself is not recommended unless familiar with local road conditions and traffic flow, as roads can be narrow and signage inconsistent.
🚄 Local and Regional Travel
While Kathmandu itself does not have a railway system, intercity buses and private tourist coaches efficiently connect the valley with other destinations across Nepal. The main departure points are Gongabu Bus Park (for Pokhara and western routes) and Koteshwor (for eastern destinations such as Dhulikhel and Lumbini). Buses range from basic local services to comfortable air-conditioned tourist coaches with allocated seating. For short trips within the valley, smaller microbuses and vans link the three major cities and nearby hill towns. Travelling by bus is an excellent way to see the countryside and interact with locals, though travel times can be long due to winding mountain roads.
✈️ Getting To and From the Airport
Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM) is Nepal’s main gateway and lies about 6 kilometres east of central Kathmandu, near Pashupatinath Temple. The airport is served by taxis and private transfers, which are the most practical way to reach hotels. A few local buses also run between the airport junction and city areas like Ratna Park, but these are best suited to experienced travellers. Most hotels can arrange airport pick-up services, which are convenient after a long flight. Domestic flights from the same terminal connect Kathmandu with Pokhara, Lukla, Bharatpur, and other regional airports — a quick way to avoid Nepal’s challenging road journeys.
🗺️ Summary
| Mode of Transport | Convenience | Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bus / Minibus 🚍 | Good | 💰 Very Affordable | Connects all major areas |
| Tempo / Microvan 🚐 | Moderate | 💰 Very Affordable | Crowded but authentic experience |
| Walking 🚶♀️ | Excellent | 🆓 Free | Ideal in heritage zones |
| Cycling 🚴♂️ | Good | 💰 Low | Best early mornings or on quieter routes |
| Taxi 🚖 | Convenient | 💰💰 Moderate | Use metered taxis or apps |
| Car Hire 🚗 | Convenient | 💰💰 Higher | Good for day trips |
| Tourist Coach 🚌 | Excellent | 💰 Affordable | Best for intercity travel |
| Airport Transfer ✈️ | Easy | 💰 Moderate | Hotel pick-ups or taxis available |
Kathmandu Valley may not have a metro or tram network, but it more than makes up for it with its vibrant, varied, and local character. Whether you’re winding through medieval alleys on foot, hopping on a packed microbus with locals, or enjoying the view from a hired car on the way to Nagarkot, getting around Kathmandu is as much a part of the adventure as the sights themselves.
Eating out for vegans in Kathmandu
🥗 Vegan Food in Kathmandu, Nepal
Kathmandu might not be the first place that comes to mind for vegan food, but the city is becoming friendlier for plant-based eaters every year. Here are some great spots to try if you’re looking for tasty and cruelty-free meals:
🌿 Ani’s Vegan Café – Boudha
A cosy vegan café near the Boudhanath Stupa offering everything from momos and curries to burgers and smoothies. It’s known for its peaceful setting and friendly service.
📍 Address: Boudha Marg, Boudhanath, Kathmandu
🌐 Instagram: @anisvegancafe
🍜 Nourish Café – Jhamsikhel
A bright, health-focused café serving vegan and vegetarian meals made from fresh, local ingredients. Their smoothie bowls, wraps, and raw desserts are favourites among regulars.
📍 Address: Jhamsikhel Road, Patan
🌐 Facebook: Nourish Café Nepal
🛒 Loving Heart Vegan Store & Café – Lazimpat
Kathmandu’s first fully vegan shop and café. You’ll find plant-based groceries, dairy alternatives, and freshly prepared vegan meals all in one place.
📍 Address: Lazimpat, Kathmandu
🌐 Website: lovingheartnepal.com
🍽️ Places Restaurant & Bar – Thamel
A relaxed and colourful restaurant with plenty of vegan and vegetarian choices. The vegan pizza, thukpa, and chocolate brownie are especially popular.
📍 Address: Saat Ghumti Marg, Thamel, Kathmandu
🌐 Website: placesrestaurant.com
🧁 The Vesper Café & Restaurant – Jhamsikhel
A stylish spot with vegan-friendly options, including salads, pasta, and smoothies. It’s a great place for brunch or a calm evening meal.
📍 Address: Jhamsikhel Road, Patan
🌐 Instagram: @vespercafektm
🥙 Thamel Doner Kebab – Thamel
Although not fully vegan, this restaurant offers several plant-based wraps, falafel, and hummus dishes. A good stop for a quick, filling meal in the heart of Thamel.
📍 Address: Thamel Marg, Kathmandu
🌐 Facebook: Thamel Doner Kebab
🌱 Sarangi Vegetarian Restaurant – Thamel
A social enterprise restaurant serving vegetarian and vegan Nepali and international dishes. They use fresh, organic ingredients and support local farmers.
📍 Address: Paryatan Marg, Thamel, Kathmandu
🌐 Website: sarangirestaurant.com
The best time to visit Kathmandu
🌸 Spring (March to May)
Spring is one of the most beautiful and popular times to visit Kathmandu. The city and surrounding hills burst into colour as rhododendrons bloom and the air carries a gentle warmth after the cool winter months. Temperatures range from 16°C to 28°C, making it pleasant for sightseeing, hiking, and exploring the valley’s temples and heritage sites. The skies are generally clear in the mornings, though occasional haze can appear later in the day. This is also a great time for trekking in nearby regions like Langtang and the lower Annapurnas before the monsoon arrives.
What to pack: Light clothing for the daytime, a light jacket or jumper for cooler evenings, sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat. A light rain jacket can be useful towards May when pre-monsoon showers begin.
☀️ Summer / Monsoon (June to September)
The summer months bring warm temperatures and heavy rains. Average temperatures hover around 20°C to 30°C, and Kathmandu sees frequent downpours, especially in July and August. The city’s streets can become muddy and travel plans occasionally disrupted, but the rain also brings lush greenery, fewer tourists, and a quieter atmosphere. It’s an excellent time for those who don’t mind the weather and want to experience the valley’s natural vibrancy and local life without the crowds.
What to pack: Quick-drying clothes, a good waterproof jacket, umbrella, sturdy sandals or waterproof shoes, insect repellent, and a small towel for humid days.
🍂 Autumn (October to November)
Autumn is widely considered the best season to visit Kathmandu. The monsoon clouds have cleared, leaving behind crisp air, deep blue skies, and superb mountain visibility. Temperatures are mild, ranging from 12°C to 25°C — perfect for sightseeing, photography, and trekking. Major festivals like Dashain and Tihar bring a festive atmosphere, with decorated streets, family gatherings, and cultural events. It’s a wonderful time to experience both the natural beauty and the cultural heart of Nepal.
What to pack: Comfortable cotton or linen clothes for the day, a jumper or light fleece for the evenings, sunscreen, good walking shoes, and a camera for the clear mountain views.
❄️ Winter (December to February)
Winter in Kathmandu is cool and dry, with daytime temperatures between 8°C and 20°C. The mornings and evenings can be chilly, especially when the valley fog settles in, but the days are usually sunny and clear. It’s an ideal time for exploring the city without the crowds, visiting temples, and enjoying local tea houses. Trekkers can still enjoy low-altitude trails, though higher mountain regions can be extremely cold and sometimes inaccessible due to snow.
What to pack: Warm layers, a thick jumper or jacket, gloves, a hat, and comfortable shoes. Sunglasses are still handy for bright days, and a light scarf helps with the dust.
📊 Summary: Best Time to Visit Kathmandu
| Season | Months | Weather | Highlights | Crowds |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 🌸 Spring | Mar–May | Mild & colourful | Flowers, festivals, trekking | Moderate |
| ☀️ Summer / Monsoon | Jun–Sep | Warm & rainy | Green landscapes, quiet city | Low |
| 🍂 Autumn | Oct–Nov | Clear & pleasant | Festivals, clear skies, ideal trekking | High |
| ❄️ Winter | Dec–Feb | Cool & sunny | Peaceful city, great views | Low–Moderate |
🌞 Overall Best Time to Visit
The best overall time to visit Kathmandu is from October to November. During these months, the weather is comfortably warm, the skies are clear, and the mountain views are at their finest. The city is alive with cultural festivals, and conditions are ideal for both sightseeing and outdoor adventures. However, if you prefer fewer tourists and blooming scenery, March to May is a close second, offering a gentler but equally rewarding experience of the Kathmandu Valley.
Where to stay in Kathmandu
1. Mid Range: Kailash Boutique Hotel
Kailash Boutique Hotel in Kathmandu is a charming blend of traditional Nepali design and modern comfort, offering guests a peaceful retreat in the heart of the bustling city. Nestled close to the vibrant Thamel district, this boutique hotel provides easy access to local shops, restaurants, and cultural landmarks, while maintaining a calm and serene atmosphere within its walls. The hotel’s architecture showcases intricate wood carvings and classic Newari craftsmanship, reflecting Nepal’s rich artistic heritage. Each room is thoughtfully decorated with warm tones, handcrafted furniture, and contemporary amenities to ensure a relaxing stay. Guests can enjoy a delicious breakfast featuring both Nepali and continental options, often served on a rooftop terrace with sweeping views of Kathmandu Valley and the distant Himalayas. The friendly and attentive staff are known for their genuine hospitality, always ready to assist with travel arrangements, local recommendations, and guided tours. Whether you’re visiting Kathmandu for adventure, culture, or relaxation, Kailash Boutique Hotel offers a perfect balance of authenticity, comfort, and personal touch that captures the essence of Nepali warmth and charm.
2. Luxury – The Dwarika’s
The Dwarika’s Hotel in Kathmandu is one of Nepal’s most iconic and luxurious heritage hotels, beautifully blending traditional Newari architecture with modern comfort. Founded by Dwarika Das Shrestha, the hotel was created to preserve and celebrate Nepal’s rich artistic and cultural legacy. Every brick, window, and carved wooden panel tells a story — many of them rescued from old palaces and restored by skilled local artisans. The spacious rooms are elegantly designed, featuring handcrafted furniture, intricate décor, and warm, earthy tones that create a sense of timeless charm. Guests can unwind in the serene courtyard surrounded by ancient stone fountains and lush greenery or enjoy a dip in the tranquil swimming pool that reflects the ambience of a traditional Nepali courtyard. Dining at The Dwarika’s is an experience in itself — Krishnarpan Restaurant offers multi-course Nepali feasts inspired by the country’s diverse regions, while Toran serves international dishes in a relaxed setting. The hotel also boasts a spa offering traditional Himalayan treatments, perfect for relaxation after exploring the bustling streets of Kathmandu or nearby UNESCO heritage sites like Pashupatinath Temple and Boudhanath Stupa. With its unique combination of cultural preservation, refined hospitality, and attention to detail, The Dwarika’s offers an unforgettable stay that captures the soul of Nepal.
3. Budget – Mount Annapurna Guest House
Mount Annapurna Guest House is a welcoming and comfortable stay located in the heart of Thamel, Kathmandu’s vibrant tourist district. This family-run hotel offers a homely atmosphere with clean, well-kept rooms that suit both budget and mid-range travellers. Guests appreciate its peaceful garden courtyard, which provides a calm retreat from the busy streets outside, as well as its rooftop terrace with stunning views of the city and surrounding hills. The staff are known for their warm Nepalese hospitality, always ready to assist with travel plans, trekking arrangements, or local recommendations. Each room features simple yet functional décor, with options ranging from basic singles to deluxe en-suites. Modern amenities such as hot showers, free Wi-Fi, and laundry service ensure a comfortable stay. Its location is ideal — just a short walk from shops, cafés, and cultural landmarks, yet tucked away enough to guarantee a good night’s rest. Whether you’re preparing for a trek to the Himalayas or exploring Kathmandu’s temples and markets, Mount Annapurna Guest House provides excellent value and a genuine Nepali experien
