Kuching is the capital city of Sarawak which is part of East Malaysia and is located on the wider island of Borneo. Anyone who has been to Peninsular Malaysia will find that Sarawak has a very different feel, and Kuching in particular, thanks to its strategic location on the snake-like Sarawak River, is one of the prettiest spots in the region.
Malaysia: Borneo – A chance meeting with pygmy elephants
🐘 Elephants, Broken Ribs, and the One That Got Away
So there I was, flat on my back in our room at the Kinabatangan Wetlands Resort, staring at the ceiling and feeling deeply sorry for myself, which, as it turned out, was entirely justified. What I’d initially dismissed as a nasty tumble from the night before was, as the doctor would later confirm, five broken ribs. Five. Not one, not two — five. I’d like to say I was being stoic about it, but honestly, I was mostly just lying there whimpering quietly and trying not to breathe too deeply.
🐒 Karen Takes the Morning Cruise
Karen, bless her, had assessed the situation — incorrectly, as it happens — decided I was probably fine, and headed out on the morning cruise along the Kinabatangan River towards the ox-bow lake. The Kinabatangan is one of Malaysia’s longest rivers, stretching some 560 kilometres through the heart of Sabah in Borneo, and its floodplain is one of the most wildlife-dense habitats in all of Southeast Asia. People travel from all over the world to sit in small boats and peer into the undergrowth here, and frankly, it’s worth every hour of the journey to get there.
The mission that morning was monkeys. Specifically, the proboscis monkeys we’d watched the previous afternoon as they’d begun setting up their evening roost in the trees along the riverbank — a remarkable nightly ritual where these wonderfully absurd-looking creatures, with their enormous fleshy noses and rather impressive pot bellies, gather in the riverside trees before dark. The morning cruise was, in theory, the chance to catch them stirring, stretching, and heading back into the rainforest for the day. Good plan. Solid plan.
🌿 The Day Before — Pygmy Elephants in the Forest
The afternoon before my unfortunate encounter with gravity, we’d had a genuinely exciting sighting. Moving through the forest, we’d come across a troop of Bornean pygmy elephants — Elephas maximus borneensis, if you want to sound clever at dinner parties — rumbling along through the undergrowth in that unhurried, unstoppable way that elephants have. Sadly, the vegetation was extraordinarily dense, and we got only glimpses — a grey flank here, a swishing tail there, the sound of something large and heavy moving through the trees. Tantalising, but not quite the full show.
The Bornean pygmy elephant is a subspecies of the Asian elephant, and is found only in the northeastern corner of Borneo — principally in Sabah and a small pocket of Kalimantan. They’re the smallest elephants in Asia, noticeably more rounded and gentle-faced than their relatives, and they have disproportionately large ears, longer tails, and a rather endearing clumsiness about them. Scientists believe they may have been isolated on Borneo for thousands of years, possibly introduced by the Sultan of Sulu in the 17th century, though the genetic evidence increasingly points to a much longer natural presence on the island.
The conservation picture, however, is grim reading. Since 1986, the Bornean pygmy elephant has been listed as endangered on the IUCN Red List. The population has declined by at least 50 per cent over the last three generations — roughly 75 years — almost entirely due to the catastrophic loss of lowland forest habitat, much of it cleared for palm oil plantations. Current estimates put the wild population at somewhere between 1,500 and 2,000 individuals. Which, when you think about it, is barely a crowd at a lower-league football match.
😤 What I Missed (And I’m Still Not Over It)
So. Back to Karen’s morning cruise. The plan had been monkeys. What she got instead — along with her fellow passengers — was a close encounter with a troop of pygmy elephants right at the river’s edge. Not distant shapes in the undergrowth this time, but proper, right-there elephants. Including tiny babies.
Tiny. Baby. Elephants.
I cannot stress enough how furious I am about this. Five broken ribs and I missed baby elephants. That is not a fair exchange by any reasonable measure. Karen has described the experience approximately seventeen times now, each retelling somehow more vivid than the last, and I have listened with the kind of gracious equanimity that one can only manage through gritted teeth.
Some days, travel is absolutely brutal.
In summary …
- We highly recommend taking a trip from Sandakan out to the Kinabatangan River and spending a few days exploring the river and the rainforest.
- The proboscis monkeys, orangutans and if you are lucky Bornean pygmy elephants are amazing.
- This is a remote location so there is no popping out to the shops, so you’ll be at your resort or on the river – unless you get to explore one of the villages.
Best time to visit Sabah, Borneo
🌞 Dry Season — March to October (Peak Time)
For the majority of travellers, the dry season represents the most appealing window to visit Malaysian Borneo. From approximately March through to October, both Sabah and Sarawak enjoy relatively lower rainfall, calmer seas, and longer stretches of sunny weather. This is when the region truly comes into its own.
In Sabah, this period is ideal for climbing Mount Kinabalu, as cloud cover is thinner in the early morning and summit views are far clearer. Diving and snorkelling around the islands of Sipadan, Mabul, and Lankayan reach peak conditions between April and September, when visibility underwater can exceed 30 metres. Turtle nesting and hatching activity at Turtle Islands Park is also at its most reliable during these months. Wildlife watching in the Kinabatangan River corridor is excellent, as lower water levels concentrate animals along the riverbanks, making orangutan, pygmy elephant, and proboscis monkey sightings more predictable.
In Sarawak, the dry season opens up the national parks in full. Trekking in Gunung Mulu National Park becomes far more manageable, with trail conditions at their best. Longhouse visits along the Rejang and Skrang rivers are more easily arranged, and boat journeys on these rivers are safer and more comfortable. The famous Rainforest World Music Festival, held annually in Kuching in July, falls squarely within this window and draws visitors from across the globe.
The months of July and August represent the absolute peak of tourist activity. Accommodation books up quickly, particularly around Sipadan (which operates a strict daily permit quota) and in Kota Kinabalu. Booking several months in advance is strongly advised for this period.
What to pack: Lightweight, breathable clothing in moisture-wicking fabrics, a light waterproof jacket for afternoon showers, UV-protective swimwear and a rash vest for snorkelling and diving, high-factor reef-safe sunscreen, insect repellent containing DEET, sturdy waterproof trekking boots with ankle support, a dry bag for river and boat excursions, a compact head torch for early-morning wildlife walks, and electrolyte tablets for hydration on mountain hikes.
🌧️ North-East Monsoon — November to February (Wet Season, East Coast)
The north-east monsoon sweeps in from the South China Sea between November and February, bringing heavy and sustained rainfall primarily to the east coast of Sabah and to much of Sarawak. This is considered the low season, and while the weather presents genuine challenges, it also carries its own rewards for the flexible traveller.
On Sabah’s east coast — including the Semporna Archipelago and Sandakan — seas can be rough and dive operators frequently suspend trips to the outer islands. Sipadan permits become easier to obtain, and accommodation prices drop noticeably. However, many dive resorts and liveaboards close entirely during the worst weeks of November and December, so confirming operations in advance is essential.
Inland and at elevation, the wet season actually keeps the rainforest lush and extraordinarily alive. The Danum Valley and Maliau Basin — among Borneo’s most pristine wilderness areas — remain accessible, and the reduced visitor numbers lend the experience a particular intimacy. Leech socks become non-negotiable in the forest during these wetter months, but wildlife encounters can be just as rewarding.
Kota Kinabalu itself, on Sabah’s west coast, is somewhat sheltered from the north-east monsoon and remains a viable base throughout this period. The city’s restaurants, night markets, and cultural attractions are enjoyable regardless of season.
In Sarawak, Kuching receives increased rainfall but functions well as a city destination. The Sarawak Museum and its annexes, the waterfront, and the Semenggoh Wildlife Centre (home to semi-wild orangutans) all operate year-round. The Bako National Park, accessible by boat from Kuching, remains open and offers some of the best proboscis monkey viewing in the world even during the wet season.
Chinese New Year, which falls in January or February depending on the lunar calendar, brings vibrant celebrations to Kuching, Kota Kinabalu, and Sibu. The atmosphere is festive and colourful, though some businesses close for several days around the main holiday.
What to pack: Quick-dry clothing and trousers, a high-quality waterproof poncho or rain jacket (not merely water-resistant), sealed waterproof bags for electronics, leech-proof socks and gaiters for jungle trekking, sandals that dry rapidly for wet conditions, a compact microfibre towel, anti-fungal foot powder, a portable umbrella, and a small first-aid kit with blister treatment.
🌊 South-West Monsoon — May to September (West Coast Wet, East Coast Dry)
The south-west monsoon, though generally gentler than its north-eastern counterpart, brings increased rainfall to the west coast of Sabah and to Sarawak’s interior from roughly May through to September. Importantly, this coincides with the dry season on the east coast, which is why the Sipadan diving season peaks during these very same months — the south-west monsoon barely affects the Celebes Sea.
For travellers focused on Kuching and Sarawak’s national parks, May through August can bring occasional heavy downpours in the afternoons, but mornings are frequently clear, and the overall conditions remain manageable for most activities. The Iban longhouses along Sarawak’s rivers are at their most welcoming during the Gawai Dayak harvest festival, celebrated on 1st and 2nd June each year. This is one of the most culturally immersive experiences Malaysian Borneo offers, and visitors fortunate enough to be invited to participate in the celebrations gain a rare insight into indigenous Dayak culture.
Trekking conditions in Mulu during this window are firm underfoot, and the cave systems — including Deer Cave and Lang’s Cave — are operational throughout the year.
What to pack: Lightweight long-sleeved shirts for sun and insect protection, a compact but packable rain jacket, sandal-style trekking footwear for river crossings, reef-safe sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat, a reusable water bottle with a filtration element, cultural gifts (such as small quality sweets or craft items) if visiting longhouses, a small padlock for guesthouse lockers, and anti-malarial medication if advised by your GP or travel clinic.
🌡️ Year-Round Considerations
Regardless of when you visit, certain conditions are constant in Malaysian Borneo. The heat and humidity are ever-present, making physical acclimatisation important on the first day or two. At altitude — particularly above 3,000 metres on Mount Kinabalu — temperatures can drop sharply at night, and thermal layers are necessary even in the driest months. Jellyfish blooms can affect coastal swimming at any time of year, so asking local advice before entering the sea is always prudent. Leeches are present in the forest year-round, increasing significantly after rainfall.
📋 Season Summary Table
🧳 Overall Best Time to Visit
If you can visit only once, the months of April, May, and early June represent the finest all-round window for Malaysian Borneo. The dry season is well established on the east coast, bringing excellent diving conditions around Sipadan and reliable wildlife watching along the Kinabatangan. Inland trekking in Danum Valley, Mulu, and on Mount Kinabalu is at its best, with manageable trails and lower risk of summit cloud. Crowds have not yet reached the intensity of July and August, meaning accommodation is easier to secure and permit queues are shorter. The heat is significant but no more extreme than any other month, and the landscape — fed by months of previous rain — is a deep, saturated green. Travellers with a particular interest in Sarawak’s indigenous festivals should target late May into early June to coincide with Gawai Dayak, an experience that elevates any trip to the region from memorable to genuinely transformative.
Where to stay?
1. Kinabatangan Wetlands Resort
Deep in the heart of Malaysian Borneo, Kinabatangan Wetlands Resort is a hidden gem that rewards those willing to venture off the beaten track. Nestled within the Lower Kinabatangan-Segama Wetlands — a RAMSAR-designated conservation area and the largest of its kind in Malaysia — the resort offers an immersive escape into one of the world’s most biodiverse ecosystems. Accessible only by boat, it’s a fantastic choice for intrepid travellers seeking comfort without sacrificing wilderness. Ten tastefully designed twin cabins sit among the trees, featuring dark wooden floors, white linens, and locally-made fabrics, with solar-powered fans and en suite facilities rounding out the comforts. Guests can look forward to boat safaris spotting proboscis monkeys, hornbills, and more, plus delicious buffet meals and spacious cabins with sweeping forest views — a truly unforgettable Bornean adventure.
2. Nature Lodge Kinabatangan
Perched on the banks of the legendary Kinabatangan River in Sabah, Malaysian Borneo, the Nature Lodge Kinabatangan — now operating as Tanini Kinabatangan — is the kind of place that reminds you why you travel. The lower Kinabatangan is one of Sabah’s most splendid natural treasures and boasts the richest concentration of wildlife in Southeast Asia, and this intimate eco-lodge puts you right in the heart of it. Spend your days cruising the river in search of wildlife, or post up at the lodge’s three-story solar viewing tower. Guides here are passionate and knowledgeable, regularly helping guests tick off all five of Borneo’s “Big Five” — including orangutans and Bornean pygmy elephants. Rustic, warm, and genuinely green, it’s an experience that stays with you long after you leave the jungle behind.
3. Sakau Rainforest Lodge
Tucked along the banks of the Kinabatangan River in Malaysian Borneo, Sukau Rainforest Lodge is one of Southeast Asia’s most extraordinary eco-retreats. Named one of National Geographic’s Unique Lodges of the World, it strikes a rare balance between comfort and conscience. Built in 1995 as the first lodge in the area, it was designed from the outset according to the principles of ecotourism, and that ethos still runs through everything it does. Raised walkways connect a collection of rooms crafted from local hardwood, where natural light streams through the windows and ceiling fans run on solar power. Outside your door, wildlife thrives: all seven species of Bornean primates, orangutans in their natural habitat, and herds of Borneo pygmy elephants are regularly spotted along the river. Whether you’re here for the wildlife, the jungle stillness, or simply to unplug in one of the world’s last great rainforests, Sukau delivers something genuinely unforgettable
More to Explore
