We were lucky enough to visit Komodo Island in Indonesia to see the legendary Komodo Dragon, the largest living lizard species in the world. The lizard grows to 3 metres (10 feet) in total length and attains a weight of about 135 kg (about 300 pounds). It occurs on Komodo Island and a few neighbouring islands of Indonesia's Lesser Sunda Islands.
Indonesia: Java – Yogyakarta, visitor’s guide
CONTENTS
1. About Yogyakarta
2. Things to do
– Visit the Kraton
– Visit the beautiful Taman Sari water garden
– Try Kopi Luwak – civet coffee
– Visit Mount Merapi
– Borobudur temple (UNESCO)
– Prambanan temple (UNESCO)
– Watch a performance of the Ramayana ballet
– The temples of Candi Pawon and Candi Mendut
– Take a local village tour
3. Getting to and around Yogyakarta
4. Best time to visit
5. Where to stay
About Yogyakarta
Yogyakarta lies 18 miles (29 km) inland from the southern Java coast and near Mount Merapi (9,551 feet [2,911 metres]).
In the 7th century the locality formed part of the Buddhist kingdom of Sailendras, which was contemporaneous with the Srivijaya empire of Palembang (Sumatra). It was probably included in the later Kadiri and Singhasari kingdoms that ruled the region successively. At the end of the 13th century the Hindu Majapahit empire rose in eastern Java, and what is now Yogyakarta passed under its rule. In the early 16th century, central Java had two Muslim kingdoms, Demak and Pajang, which were incorporated into the powerful Muslim kingdom of Mataram by Senapati Ingalaga (reigned 1584–1601). The Dutch became established in the region in 1602. After numerous conflicts, Mataram subdued the state of Surabaya in eastern Java in 1625 and gained general supremacy in the territory.
In rebellion against Dutch intervention in Javanese politics, Sultan Hamengkubuwana I moved his court from Kuta Gede to Yogya in Mataram in 1755 and renamed the town Yogyakarta. The British captured Yogyakarta in 1811, and Sultan Hamengkubuwana II was deposed and exiled. In 1816 the Dutch repossessed the island of Java, and by 1830 Dutch colonial rule was firmly established in the sultanate. After the period of Japanese occupation during World War II, the Republic of Indonesia was formed. The national capital was removed to Yogyakarta when the Dutch occupied Jakarta in 1946; it was moved back to Jakarta in 1950 upon independence, and Yogyakarta was given the status of a special district in the Republic of Indonesia. A severe earthquake in 2006, centred to the south near Bantul, killed scores of people in the city of Yogyakarta and caused widespread damage.
The city is famous as a cultural centre and for its handtooled silver products, batik, and leather goods. It also has railway workshops, textile mills, tanneries, and pharmaceutical factories. In Yogyakarta are the 18th-century palace (kraton) of the sultan (the only traditional ruler in Indonesia retaining any temporal power), a state university (Gadjah Mada University, founded 1949), the Hatta Foundation Library, the Sono Budoyo museum, an art academy, and a private university. The city also houses the kraton of the Paku Alam, another traditional ruler. Other tourist attractions are the nearby ancient temples of Borobuḍur and of Prambanan, the country around Kaliurang, a hill resort high on Mount Merapi, and the village of Kotagede, the centre of the silver industry. The city has an airport and extensive rail and road connections. Pop. (1990) 412,392; (2000) 397,431.
Things to do
The Kraton
The Kraton (also spelled keraton or karaton) or the Palace of Yogyakarta, is a grand complex that was meticulously planned to reflect the Javanese cosmos. This complex of pavilions was constructed based on ancient beliefs, about the connection between God, humans and the natural realms.
Taman Sari
This once-splendid pleasure park of palaces, pools and waterways, built between 1758 and 1765, functioned as the playground of the sultan and his entourage. It’s said that the sultan had the Portuguese architect of this elaborate retreat executed, to keep his hidden pleasure rooms secret.
Try Kopi luwak (civet coffee)
Kopi luwak, also known as civet coffee, is a coffee that consists of partially digested coffee cherries, which have been eaten and defecated by the Asian palm civet. The cherries are fermented as they pass through a civet’s intestines, and after being defecated with other faecal matter, they are collected.
The process of making this coffee is difficult so it therefore has a high price tag. For the Luwak coffee based on arabica coffee beans, it was 100,000 Indonesian rupiah per cup, the equivalent of USD 6.70, a steep price considering how inexpensive food and drink are in Indonesia. We felt obliged to buy a coffee for our guide, so it was a dear do, but luckily the coffee was good and strong and overall, we were glad we had tried it!
Visit Mount Merapi
Mount Merapi is an ominous-looking stratovolcano, located about 29 km to the north of the city of Yogyakarta in central Java, Indonesia. The volcano’s conical shape is reminiscent of Mount Fuji in Japan, although it is not as high as Fuji.
The Javanese name, Gunung Merapi, literally translates to ‘mountain of fire’ and it is Indonesia’s most active and dangerous volcano. It is not to be confused with Gunung Marapi, which is the most active volcano in Sumatra and almost the exact same height as Gunung Merapi!
The summit of Merapi sits at an estimated elevation of 2,930 m above sea level and the mountain is flanked by numerous small village communities, some of these situated as high as 1,700m above sea level.
You can visit the environs of Merapi on a jeep tour.
For the more adventurous you can trek on foot to the rim of the crater. Going up takes 3 to 7 hours depending on your fitness. The last 300 metres is tricky as it is steep and the ground underneath is a mix of scree and sand. The get to the summit for sunrise you will likely need to set off around 1 am. You can do this unguided if you are an experienced hiker or alternatively hire a guide for the trip.
Borobudur
Borobudur was built in the 9th century during the reign of the Sailendra Dynasty, the temple design follows Javanese Buddhist architecture, which blends the Indonesian indigenous tradition of ancestor worship and the Buddhist concept of attaining nirvana. It is the world’s largest Buddhist temple. The temple consists of nine stacked platforms; six are square and three are circular, topped by a central dome. It is decorated with 2,672 relief panels and originally 504 Buddha statues. The central dome is surrounded by 72 Buddha statues. Borobudur is the largest Buddhist temple in the world and ranks with Bagan in Myanmar and Angkor Wat in Cambodia as one of the great archaeological sites of Southeast Asia.
Borobudur was abandoned following the 14th-century decline of Hindu kingdoms in Java and the Javanese conversion to Islam. It became lost in the jungles of Java and fell into disrepair. It was not until 1814 that Worldwide knowledge of Borobudur’s existence was raised by Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, then the British ruler of Java, who was advised of its location by native Indonesians. Borobudur has since been preserved through several restorations. The largest restoration project was undertaken between 1975 and 1982 by the Indonesian government and UNESCO, followed by the monument’s listing as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Prambanan
Prambanan has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1991 and comprises the remains of some 244 temples. It is Indonesia’s largest Hindu site and one of Southeast Asia’s major attractions. The highlight is the central compound, where eight main and eight minor temples are assembled on a raised platform the highlight of which is Candi Shiva Mahadeva.
Extended over two centuries, the building at Prambanan commenced in the middle of the 9th century – around 50 years after Borobudur. The whole Prambanan Plain was abandoned when the Hindu-Javanese kings moved to East Java and, in the middle of the 16th century, a great earthquake toppled many of the temples. Prambanan remained in ruins for years, its demise accelerated by treasure hunters and locals searching for building materials. While efforts were made in 1885 to clear the site, it was not until 1937 that reconstruction was first attempted. Most temples have now been restored to some extent. Prambanan suffered extensive damage in the 2006 earthquake. Although the main temples survived, hundreds of stone blocks collapsed or were cracked (479 blocks in the Shiva temple alone). Today the main structures have been restored, but a lot of work remains to be done and parts of the complex are still off-limits.
Watch a performance of the Ramayana ballet
The Ramayana, is a Sanskrit epic from ancient India, one of the two important epics of Hinduism, known as the Itihasas (history), the other being the Mahābhārata. The epic, traditionally ascribed to the Maharishi Valmiki, narrates the life of Rama, a legendary prince of Ayodhya in the kingdom of Kosala. The epic follows his fourteen-year exile to the forest urged by his father King Dasharatha, on the request of Rama’s stepmother Kaikeyi; his travels across forests in the Indian subcontinent with his wife Sita and brother Lakshmana, the kidnapping of Sita by Ravana – the king of Lanka, that resulted in war; and Rama’s eventual return to Ayodhya to be crowned king amidst jubilation and celebration.
This epic was the story we had learned about from Eddy during our visit to Prambanan earlier in the day. There are many versions of Ramayana in Indian languages, besides Buddhist, Sikh, and Jain adaptations. There are also Cambodian, Indonesian, Filipino, Thai, Lao, Burmese, and Malay versions of the tale. In fact, during our visit to Luang Prabang in Laos we had seen a traditional ballet performance of Ramayana there and also in Bangkok.
The epic takes a while to tell, the performance was around 90 minutes and even knowing the story it is quite hard to follow. Luckily, the dancing, music and fireworks all made the time go fairly quickly. Of all the versions we had seen during our tour of Southeast Asia, I think this was the best adaptation.
The temples of Candi Pawon and Candi Mendut
The design style of this Buddhist temple suggests that it predates Borobudur, which sits 1.75km northeast. 1.15km southeast is another Buddhist temple, Candi Mendut. These three temples sit in a straight line, suggesting there was a symbolic meaning that binds these temples. Each year, on days leading to Vesak Day, there is an annual procession to celebrate the holy day. The procession starts from Candi Mendut, then continues to Candi Pawon and ends at Candi Borobudur.
Take a tour of a local village
Borobudur is surrounded by many villages or Kampungs. Each village has their unique culture, typical houses, and traditional and local food. The village tour takes after visiting the Borobudur temple. There are two possibilities, either by Andong (horse cart) or cycling.
Getting to and around Yogyakarta
Flying
Multiple airlines including Lion Air and AirAsia offer direct flights from Jakarta to Yogyakarta.
There’s only one airline that offers direct flights from Bandung to Yogyakarta, and that’s Lion Air. The flight takes a little over an hour.
A few airlines offer direct flights from the island of Bali to Yogyakrta, including AirAsia and Lion Air. The flight takes about an hour and a half.
Trains
If you aren’t in a rush, then a good alternative would be to travel by train. Personally, we prefer trains over flights. The scenery is better and it’s much cheaper. The train ride from Jakarta to Yogyakarta takes about 8 hours so you can do an overnight train if you wish. The journey from Bandung is around the same amount of time.
Bus
A third option is to go by bus which takes a little longer than traveling by train, about 9 hours from Jakarta.
Giwangan, Yogya’s main terminal for intercity buses, is about six kilometres south of the city centre. Frequent departures connect cities all over Java and to Bali and Sumatra (via ferry). Buses are classed as executive, VIP, patas, business or economy. All except economy class offer air-con. Executive and most VIP buses have toilets, include a meal and pillow and blanket. Executive, VIP and Patas are comfortable with reclining seats with a two by two configuration. Business class are no frills with two by three seat configuration. Economy have no air-con and little comfort, particular for longer trips. Some bus drivers drive recklessly—don’t be afraid to get off a bus with a crazy driver.
Getting around Yogyakarta
Metered taxis are an inexpensive way to travel, however there can sometimes be traffic congestion. Note that Jalan Malioboro in the city is one-way only, so you may have to travel a roundabout route. Minimum fee is 20,000 rupiah. Some taxis refuse to use the meter, so just wait for one who will.
GoJek motorbike taxis are fast and less expensive than taxis. You will need to download the GoJek app and register to use.
Becak (pedicabs) are abundant. While scenic, these are not the vehicles to take if you are in a hurry, especially since drivers often detour unannounced to their friend’s batik workshops en route. It’s best to arrange a price first (a short trip in the Yogya town centre should be no more than 10,000 to 20,000 rupiah, even at tourist prices) and if you have several destinations in mind, you can rent a becak for several hours for a flat rate.
Andong (horse-drawn carts) are another local transport option, but beware of overloading the poor overworked nags.
Clean, air-con TransJogja buses follow set colour-coded and numbered routes that pass by several major tourist areas, including Jalan Malioboro, Prambanan temple, Giwangan bus terminal and the airport. Fares are a flat 3,600 rupiah per trip and the attendants can help you catch the right bus. Pick up a free route map from the Government Tourist Information Centre on Jalan Malioboro.
Borobudur: Public buses (Cemera Tunggal and Ragil Kuning) from Jombor terminal in the north of the city leave regularly to Borobudur between 06:00 and 16:00, and cost 30,000 rupiah (1.5 hours). TransJogja buses will link you to Jombor terminal via routes 2A (sky blue) and 2B (green) (3,600 rupiah), you may have to connect to these routes via another TransJogja route. The last bus back from Borobudur leaves at 16:00. Borobudur terminal is a 10-minute walk from the temple complex, or becaks and taxis will be willing and waiting to transport you. Alternatively you can catch a Cemera Tunggal bus from Giwangan terminal in the south of the city (2 hours), although these leave less regularly and only operate 08:00 to 15:00. TransJogja links to Giwangan terminal via routes 3A (yellow), 3B (red), 4A (purple) and 4B (orange).
The best time to visit Yogyakarta
Known for its location in the tropical region of Indonesia, Yogyakarta showcases a climate that adheres to the Köppen climate classification, Af or Tropical rainforest. Constant warm temperatures along with high humidity and copious rainfall are the hallmarks of this type of climate, and Yogyakarta stands as a perfect representation.
Throughout the year, temperatures in Yogyakarta fluctuate subtly, ranging from a low of 21°C (69.8°F) to a high of approximately 29°C (84.2°F). No significant deviations are visible, made evident by the consistently high relative humidity ranging from 80% to 84%. Rainfall, on the other hand, exhibits a more pronounced fluctuation with an impressive volume ranging from 29mm (1.14″) in August to 236mm (9.29″) in March.
The best time to visit Yogyakarta
Given Yogyakarta’s consistent climate, choosing the best time to visit largely depends on personal preferences concerning humidity and rainfall. However, given the climatological data, the months from June to August present a period of relatively lower humidity (around 81 percent), lesser rainfall (ranging from 29mm (1.14″) to 83mm (3.27″)), and increase in sunshine hours (from 8.5 to 8.9). Travelers looking for a balance of tropical warmth, manageable rainfall, and pleasant sunshine would find this window most suitable.
The worst time to visit Yogyakarta
On the other hand, rainy periods in Yogyakarta could pose a hurdle to visitors who prefer exploring the outdoors in dry weather. The months of January, February, March, and November are characterized by substantial rainfall, exceeding 200mm (7.87″) and high-humidity levels, which can make exploration and outdoor activities less enjoyable.
Where to stay in Yogyakarta
1. Luxury – The Phoenix Hotel Yogyakarta
Located in the heart of Yogyakarta, The Phenix Hotel Yogyakarta – MGallery Collection is luxury accommodations in a colonial landmark from 1918. The 5-star hotel offers a spa, a fine-dining restaurant and spacious rooms with free WiFi. The outdoor pool is large and open all-year.
Boasting classic interiors with Javanese and European elements in intricate details, the rooms at this property feature modern amenities such as flat-screen TV and air conditioning. Each room is fitted with a mini-bar and safety deposit box for your convenience. Hot shower facilities are available in the private bathroom.
2. Mid Range: Nextdoor Homestay
We spent three nights here during our time in Yogyakarta and loved it.
Located close to the centre of the city down a very quiet alley this is more of a backpacker’s hangout but at the same time was not grungy. Indeed, there were many design aspects that we loved, and it felt like an oasis of peace and tranquillity. That was until the call to prayer started at the adjacent mosque! Our room was comfortable and there were plenty of places to escape for some solitude in and around the homestay.
The staff at Next Door could not have been more welcoming.
3. Budget – Wonderloft Hostel Jogja
Featuring a garden, Wonderloft Hostel Jogja offers rooms in Yogyakarta, 1.9 miles from Fort Vredeburg and 2 miles from Museum Sonobudoyo. The property is located 2.1 miles from Sultan’s Palace, 2.7 miles from Malioboro Mall and 2.8 miles from Yogyakarta Presidential Palace. Prambanan Temple is 12 miles from the hostel and Borobudur Temple is 27 miles away.
Featuring a shared bathroom with a bidet, rooms at the hostel also provide guests with free WiFi, while selected rooms include a garden view.
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