India: Holi – Festival of Colour
🌈 Holi Madness in Hampi – A Festival of Colour and Chaos
Yesterday we were a little confused about exactly when Holi would be celebrated in Hampi, but this morning there was no doubt at all — it was definitely happening today! After a relaxed breakfast at our hotel, we joined Prakash for the short journey back towards the old village of Hampi, where the celebrations were already beginning to stir. The roads were busier than usual, with groups of locals, travellers, and children clutching small packets of bright powders — pinks, greens, yellows, purples, and oranges — the colours of joy and renewal. We soon joined in by buying a few bags ourselves, not entirely sure whether to throw them or save them, but it didn’t matter; before long, we would be wearing them.
🎨 The Spirit of Holi
Holi, known widely as the Festival of Colours, is one of India’s most joyful and inclusive celebrations. It marks the arrival of spring and symbolises the triumph of good over evil. It is a time for renewal — when people let go of old grievances and join together in laughter, music, and colour. Across India and Nepal, streets and open spaces come alive with people throwing handfuls of powder, dancing wildly to drums, and sharing festive sweets and drinks. The festival takes place around the time of the March full moon, and its eve, known as Holika Dahan, is celebrated with bonfires. The flames symbolise the burning away of negativity and the welcoming of a new beginning.
The origins of Holi lie in Hindu mythology, in the story of Prahlad and Holika. Prahlad’s father, King Hiranyakashipu, could not tolerate his son’s devotion to Lord Vishnu. To destroy him, the king’s sister Holika — who possessed a cloak protecting her from fire — sat with Prahlad in a burning pyre. But divine justice turned the plan upside down: the cloak flew to protect Prahlad, while Holika was consumed by the flames. It is this victory of faith, truth, and goodness that Holi celebrates, reminding everyone that love and virtue can overcome hate and deceit.
🪘 The Celebration Begins at Virupaksha Temple
Back in Hampi, the celebrations centred around the area in front of the ancient Virupaksha Temple, which we had visited the previous day. The narrow streets were filling fast with locals, backpackers, and families all ready for the big event. We hadn’t even reached the temple gate when the first handfuls of powder came our way — a bright pink cloud bursting around us as a cheerful stranger shouted “Happy Holi!” Before we knew it, our faces were streaked in layers of colour, and we were returning the favour with our own handfuls.
At first, it all felt light-hearted and gentle, but as more people arrived, the energy began to build. Music played from loudspeakers, laughter filled the air, and then the drummers arrived — a group of young men with massive drums slung across their shoulders. The beat was infectious, deep and rhythmic, echoing off the stone walls. It didn’t take long for everyone to start dancing, the air thick with powder and the smell of dust, sweat, and coconut oil.
💃 Dancing in a Sea of Colour
By now, we were unrecognisable. The layers of coloured powder had mixed into a dull brown paste on our skin, but nobody cared. The barrier that divided the men’s area from the women’s was being slowly pushed back by the crowd, and the security guards seemed resigned to letting the tide of people take over. Karen joined the women’s section, which had its own lively but more controlled atmosphere, while I found myself in the middle of the men’s side — a whirling, laughing chaos of colour and sound.
Young men covered in neon hues flung their arms and hips to the drumbeats, moving as if possessed by the rhythm. Occasionally, someone would throw a bucket of coloured water into the crowd, prompting a collective roar of laughter. Despite the wildness of it all, there was no real aggression, just pure, unrestrained joy. It felt almost ancient — a ritual of release and unity that blurred all distinctions of language, nationality, and background. For a while, we were simply part of the crowd, carried along by the music and colour.
🥥 Winding Down and Washing Off
After a couple of hours of dancing, cheering, and dodging clouds of powder, we finally decided to call it a day. Our skin itched from the dust, and our eyes and noses were full of colour. Even our hair had turned into a strange mix of green and orange. We stopped for fresh coconuts from a street vendor — a perfect, cooling refreshment after the madness of the morning. Sitting by the roadside, sipping the sweet water, we watched the colourful crowd continue to dance in front of the temple, the sound of drums fading only slightly in the distance.
Back at the hotel, the next challenge began — getting clean. We jumped straight into the shower, but the colours refused to budge. We scrubbed and rinsed over and over again, watching streaks of pink and blue swirl down the drain, but some stains stubbornly clung to our skin. Miraculously, the shorts and hats we’d bought especially for Holi survived, though our t-shirts were beyond saving. It didn’t matter. The day had been unforgettable — a swirl of sound, laughter, and colour that perfectly captured the spirit of India.
🌞 Final Thoughts
Holi in Hampi was one of those travel experiences that stays with you long after the colours fade. It was messy, loud, chaotic, and utterly joyous — a celebration that brought together locals and visitors alike in a shared expression of happiness. For a few hours, everything else disappeared, and the world was just a blur of music and colour. Even now, days later, we still find traces of pink powder in our bags — tiny reminders of a festival that truly lived up to its name: the Festival of Colours.
Planning your visit to Hampi
🏛️ Planning Your Visit to Hampi, Karnataka
Hampi, located in the Indian state of Karnataka, is one of the most remarkable historical sites in South India. Once the glorious capital of the Vijayanagara Empire, it now lies in majestic ruins scattered across a surreal landscape of boulders, palm groves, and banana plantations. The area forms part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is set along the banks of the Tungabhadra River. The modern village of Hampi and the nearby town of Hosapete (Hospet) serve as convenient bases for exploring the ancient monuments, temples, and markets that once formed one of the richest cities in the world.
🚆 Getting There
The nearest major town to Hampi is Hosapete, about 13 kilometres away. Hosapete Junction railway station is well connected to major cities such as Bengaluru, Goa, Hyderabad, and Chennai, with regular train services operating daily. From the station, you can easily find taxis, rickshaws, or local buses that travel directly to Hampi. For those travelling by air, the closest airports are in Hubballi (around 160 km away) and Bengaluru (approximately 350 km away). From these airports, the journey to Hampi can be made by road or train, offering a scenic route through the countryside of Karnataka.
🚗 Getting Around
Once in Hampi, the best way to explore the site is either on foot, by bicycle, or on a hired scooter. The ruins are spread over a large area, and the terrain is uneven in parts, so wearing comfortable shoes is essential. Many visitors also hire local auto-rickshaw drivers who are familiar with the area and can act as informal guides. The Virupaksha Temple area serves as a good starting point, with the Royal Enclosure, the Vittala Temple complex, and the riverside monuments all within reach. Be prepared for plenty of walking, as much of the charm of Hampi lies in wandering through its sun-drenched boulder fields and forgotten pathways.
The best time to visit Southern India
🌞 The Best Time to Visit Southern India
Southern India offers a rich tapestry of landscapes — from the misty hill stations of Kerala and Tamil Nadu to the sun-drenched beaches of Goa and Karnataka. Its tropical climate means it can be visited year-round, but the experience varies dramatically with the seasons. Understanding how the weather shifts across the year helps you plan your travels for comfort and adventure alike.
🌼 Winter (November to February) – The Peak Season
Winter is the most pleasant and popular time to visit Southern India. During these months, temperatures are comfortably mild, ranging from 20°C to 30°C across most regions. The air is crisp in the mornings, especially in the Western Ghats and hill stations like Munnar, Coorg, and Ooty, where nights can dip below 15°C. Coastal areas such as Kochi, Chennai, and Goa remain warm but not sweltering, perfect for sightseeing, temple visits, or long days by the sea.
Festivals such as Pongal, Christmas, and the Kerala Boat Races add colour and cultural charm to the season. This is also an excellent time for exploring the wildlife sanctuaries, trekking through spice plantations, or taking houseboat cruises on Kerala’s serene backwaters.
🧳 What to Pack: Light cotton clothes for the day, a light jumper or shawl for cooler evenings, sunhat, sunglasses, comfortable walking shoes, and mosquito repellent.
🌸 Summer (March to May) – Hot but Rewarding
Summer in Southern India can be intense, particularly in coastal and inland cities like Chennai, Hyderabad, and Madurai, where temperatures often exceed 35°C. However, this season has its own appeal. The hill stations are at their most inviting, offering cool retreats surrounded by lush tea estates and cascading waterfalls. It’s also a quieter time for travel, meaning fewer crowds and better deals on accommodation.
Early mornings and evenings are the best times for sightseeing, while afternoons are ideal for leisurely indoor pursuits such as visiting museums or sampling regional cuisine. If you plan to explore the Western Ghats, the air remains cooler and the landscapes are spectacularly green.
🧳 What to Pack: Very light cotton clothing, sun protection (hat, sunscreen, sunglasses), a reusable water bottle, and sandals or breathable shoes.
🌧️ Monsoon (June to October) – The Season of Refreshing Rains
The monsoon brings dramatic transformation to Southern India. Lush greenery spreads across the countryside, waterfalls roar back to life, and the air fills with the earthy scent of rain. Kerala and coastal Karnataka are especially beautiful during this time, although frequent downpours can disrupt travel plans. Temperatures remain between 25°C and 32°C, with high humidity levels.
This is also the season for rejuvenation and wellness. Many travellers come to Kerala for traditional Ayurvedic treatments, which are said to be most effective during the monsoon months. Photography lovers will find the region’s landscapes and skies truly captivating. However, road travel can sometimes be challenging due to heavy rainfall and flooding in low-lying areas.
🧳 What to Pack: Quick-dry clothing, a waterproof jacket or poncho, sandals with good grip, an umbrella, insect repellent, and a dry bag for electronics.
📊 Seasonal Summary Chart
| Season | Months | Weather | Highlights | Ideal For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 🌼 Winter | Nov – Feb | Pleasant (20–30°C) | Festivals, sightseeing, beaches, backwaters | All travellers |
| 🌸 Summer | Mar – May | Hot (30–40°C) | Quiet travel, hill stations, fewer crowds | Budget travellers, nature lovers |
| 🌧️ Monsoon | Jun – Oct | Wet & Humid (25–32°C) | Lush scenery, Ayurveda, photography | Wellness retreats, scenic travel |
🌴 Overall Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit Southern India is from November to February, when the climate is at its most comfortable, the skies are clear, and every destination — from the beaches of Goa to the hills of Wayanad — is at its most enjoyable. You’ll experience vibrant festivals, easy travel conditions, and a balance of warmth and freshness that perfectly suits exploration. However, if you prefer solitude and lower prices, late summer or early monsoon (May to July) can also reveal a softer, more tranquil side of Southern India.
Where to stay in Hampi
1. Mid Range: The Hampi Cafe
The Hampi Café is a relaxed and welcoming place to stay in the heart of Hampi, perfectly suited to the laid-back rhythm of this historic town. Surrounded by lush banana plantations and dramatic boulder-strewn hills, it offers a peaceful retreat just a short walk from the temples and ruins that make Hampi so fascinating. The atmosphere is casual and friendly, with a mix of travellers, backpackers, and those looking for a quieter escape. Accommodation is simple but comfortable, often featuring rustic cottages or rooms with basic furnishings, ceiling fans, and shaded verandas that look out over the landscape. The on-site café and restaurant are popular not only with guests but also with visitors from nearby lodgings, serving a wide range of dishes including Indian, Continental, and plant-based meals, often prepared using fresh local ingredients. The open-air dining area, decorated with colourful fabrics and bamboo furniture, becomes a social hub in the evenings where people share travel stories under soft lantern light. What makes the Hampi Café particularly charming is its unpretentious character—it doesn’t aim for luxury but instead captures the essence of Hampi’s easy-going and spiritual spirit. It’s an ideal base for exploring the nearby ruins, cycling through the countryside, or simply relaxing with a book while the sounds of the countryside drift by.
2. Luxury – Evolve Back Hampi
Evolve Back Hampi is one of the most luxurious and atmospheric places to stay in this remarkable region of Karnataka. Set amidst sweeping countryside just a short drive from the UNESCO-listed ruins of Hampi, the resort has been designed to reflect the grandeur of the Vijayanagara Empire, whose legacy defines the surrounding landscape. Its architecture is inspired by the royal palaces and temples of the 14th and 15th centuries, with intricately carved stone façades, arched gateways, and water features that echo the historic stepwells of the area. Inside, the interiors are equally refined, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern comfort. The suites are spacious and beautifully appointed, featuring private courtyards or plunge pools, elegant stone pillars, and antique-style furnishings that create a serene and regal atmosphere. The property offers fine dining that celebrates local flavours alongside international cuisine, with ingredients sourced from nearby farms. There is also an infinity pool overlooking the countryside, an Ayurvedic spa, and guided experiences that help guests explore the history and mythology of Hampi in depth. From sunrise walks among ancient ruins to leisurely evenings under starlit skies, Evolve Back Hampi offers not just accommodation but a deeply immersive experience that captures the essence of southern India’s past and present.
3. Budget – Anu Paradise Hampi
Anu Paradise Hampi is a welcoming and peaceful place to stay, set amid the rural charm and ancient landscape that make Hampi so memorable. The accommodation offers simple yet comfortable rooms designed with local materials and a rustic touch that fits perfectly with the surroundings. It has a relaxed, homely atmosphere that appeals to travellers looking for somewhere unpretentious and restful after a day exploring the temples and ruins. The property is conveniently located within a short drive or cycle ride from many of Hampi’s main sights, making it a good base for sightseeing. Guests often comment on the friendly hosts, who go out of their way to make everyone feel at home and to help with travel tips and local arrangements. The on-site restaurant serves freshly prepared vegetarian food, including South Indian favourites, using local produce where possible. In the evenings, the open garden area becomes a quiet spot to sit under the stars, listening to the sounds of nature all around. With its easy-going charm, clean facilities, and genuine hospitality, Anu Paradise Hampi offers a simple yet memorable stay in one of India’s most atmospheric destinations.
