Cambodia: Tonlé Sap floating village
Belonging to the Mekong River system, Tonlé is the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia and one of the most diverse and productive ecosystems in the world. From Siem Reap you visit Tonlé and take a ride on a boat to visit one of the floating villages that call this place home.
The day before had been all about the temples of Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom. Today was going to be a bit different as we were heading out of Siem Reap for about an hour to Tonlé Sap.
Belonging to the Mekong River system, Tonlé is the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia and one of the world’s most diverse and productive ecosystems. It has been designated as a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1997 due to its high biodiversity. Although it is a freshwater lake, significant salt deposits were laid down when it was under the sea, resulting in salt marshes and mangrove forests. This confused me for a while as for a moment I thought we were on the sea rather than a lake!
Siem Reap is a surprisingly large city that took some time to escape its limits, but we were soon on the highway passing by rice fields and other base crops. After about 45 minutes we left the highway and turned onto the local roads, which saw the return of gravel and potholes. Our route took us through a small village that was bustling with people doing their daily business.
Cambodia is not a wealthy country and the poverty of those living in rural areas was clear to see. The farm buildings looked ramshackle and the ribs on the cattle were pot-bellied with their ribs protruding. It was very sad to see. As we passed through the village, we noticed a host of schoolchildren carrying large plastic bags. We asked our guide what was going on and he explained they were most likely doing a community project to collect the garbage that had been just thrown onto the ground. Just as we were about to leave the village, we saw a house on the side of the road that had been beautifully decorated and there were large speakers on stands just in front of the building. Handsome Man explained that this had been set up for a wedding that was going to take place later that morning – he also said we could stop by on the way back and the family would be happy if we dropped in. This would be our first wedding gatecrash in Southeast Asia!
From the village, we carried on out into a wide-open area filled with rice fields. The road here was raised on a causeway, so I suspected this was the flood plain for Tonlé Sap. A little further on we came to a larger body of water which was one of the rivers that flow into the lake.
The enterprising locals have set up a tour business to take tourists through the water system around the lake. We stopped to buy tickets to go on one of the smaller boats to visit the floating village.
Our guide dropped us off at the pier where we were ushered onto a small boat, along with another couple. We managed to safely board the boat, but as is often the case I forgot to duck and skulled myself on the roof of the boat – which resulted in me seeing a lot of stars despite it only being mid-morning!
Soon we were off cruising the river. This is not a quiet river cruise by any means and there were many other boats with tourists going in our general direction. Some of these boats were much larger than ours and had many tourists aboard, and some had very loudspeaker systems belting out music. We were glad we hadn’t opted for one of these “party boats”.
After about 15 minutes we reached the floating village. Like most ‘floating villages’ we’d seen this was not truly floating as the buildings were suspended on wooden pylons that had been sunk into the riverbed. But they were surrounded by water and the only way of getting to and from them was by boat. It was interesting to see people moving around by boat, even the young children seemed to be trusted going out onto the water on their own without their parents having a conniption. As well as houses there were shops of varying sizes, a police station, a church and a school – it was a true community of several hundred people living in a watery setting.
We eventually passed through the village, passing a mangrove swamp, into a delta that opened out on the Tonlé Sap. The lake is vast, and we could not see the other side of it. If you didn’t know better, you would swear you were out on the sea. Our captain brought the boat to a stop, which allowed some entrepreneurial villagers on boats to come across. They were operating a mobile shop for drinks and snacks. We bought a couple of drinks from them to make their effort of coming across worthwhile.
After a few minutes of hanging out on the lake, we made our way back in the same direction as we had arrived.
When we arrived back in the village there was a lot of activity around the Buddhist temple in the village centre. We asked if we could stop and look – and our captain said yes.
There was a Buddhist festival going on and the place was heaving with locals and others who had travelled far and wide to get here. It was approaching lunchtime, so everyone was getting their food ready for their feasts. Outside the main temple assembly hall were a couple of makeshift mannequins which the children, especially the boys, were enthusiastically beating up. Karen went over to find out what was going on and nearly got knocked over in the process. While Karen was tackling the children I went for a walk around the temple complex, taking photos of the building, families having fun and the group of men playing traditional instruments. It was an amazing experience. Sadly, we could not stay for too long before heading back to our boat.
Once we arrived back at the dock we went in search of our driver.
On the way back through the village, as promised, we got to stop at the wedding. The groom was sitting, crossed-legged at a low table, looking splendid in his traditional costume. He was surrounded by family members equally smartly dressed. We were welcomed to stand and wait for the ceremony to start. The bride was still in the small loft room above where the groom was sitting getting ready, attended by all the women of the family. The groom patiently waited, with some trepidation showing on his face. About ten minutes later the bride appeared looking gorgeous and took her place next to the groom. Before the ceremony started, they posed for photos, some formal and some for guests – including us. Karen made a heart shape with her hands for the bride – who responded, which made for a great photo. Once the photos were done the holy man set about blessing the couple which involved a lot of chanting. We were welcome to stay, watch and photograph the whole thing. It was so special to be allowed to participate in this couple’s special day.
Planning your visit to Tonlé Sap
The are plenty of tour companies who can organise a trip to the floating villages and Tonlé Sap. Probably the most cost effective way of getting there is to find a tuk-tuk driver to take you and by a boat tour ticket when you arrive. We organised our with the hotel we were staying at – and most hotels and hostels in Siem Reap can help you find a reliable driver.
Getting to and around Siem Reap
Flying
Flying into Siem Reap is something most travelers do; Siem Reap International Airport is about 7 km west of the town centre, and is actually busier than the capital city Phnom Penh.
Metro
Because there are no direct flights between Siem Reap and the West, if you’ve chosen to fly you’ll need to transit through an Asian hub. The most common direct flights to Siem Reap leave from Bangkok, Saigon (HCMC), Phnom Penh, Guangzhou, and Singapore.
The airport is a hub for Asian airlines, so you’ll be able to find flights to Siem Reap with carriers like Air Asia, China Southern Air, Vietnam Airlines, as well as Cambodia Angkor Air and Sky Angor Asia Airlines.
Airport facilities are pretty basic; there are a couple of cafes, shops, ATMs and a foreign currency exchange, but that’s about it. The building itself though is very clean and modern.
Bangkok’s metro system (MRT) is also good for travelling between the Sukhumvit or Silom districts to reach Hualamphong Train Station. Ticket costs on the Metro are inexpensive.
The popular Chatuchak Weekend Market is located at Mo Chit station on the Sukhumvit BTS line and Chatuchak Park on the MRT line.
Bus
A bus is a popular budget way to get to Siem Reap, especially from big hubs like Phnom Penh and Bangkok. Getting from Phnom Penh – Siem Reap by bus can be as cheap as $10 ($23 from Bangkok), and the vehicles are surprisingly modern and comfortable.
Because this is a popular way to get to Siem Reap, there is a huge range of bus companies to choose from. They leave daily from 6 am to 12 am, and facilities vary, so we highly recommend using a booking comparison site to find the best bus.
Boat
Another option for getting to Siem Reap is by boat, or cruise ship. Boats from Phnom Penh leave every day to Siem Reap, and will cost you around $25 – $35 USD for a 4 – 6 hour journey.
Boat routes are typically more geared towards locals rather than tourists, so there may not be the comfort or safety facilities that you’re used to, and boats from Phnom Penh have a reputation for breaking down.
Getting around Siem Reap
Tuk-tuks (also known as remorks) are the cheapest, and best way to get around town in Siem Reap. Short one way journeys will cost around $2 – 3 USD, for instance if you’re traveling from your hotel, into Pub Street (the main tourist food district).
A tuk-tuk is essentially an open air taxi; it’s a large carriage hitched to a motorcycle like a trailer, with four seats in the back. Once you start getting close into town they’re absolutely everywhere – you won’t have trouble finding one – tell the driver your destination, and agree on a price before you leave.
Taxis are more expensive, and you can’t hail these off the street with the same ease as a tuk-tuk. They’re not very common in Siem Reap so your best bet is to have your hotel book one for you if needed.
Walking is a great way to get around Siem Reap, especially if you’re sticking within the city. It’s very safe despite the chaotic look of the street, though you should keep your bags at the front of your body; bag snatching here is rare, but it’s always better to be safe.
The best time to visit Siem Reap
The annual temperatures in Krong Siem Reap generally range from 19°C (66.2°F) to 36°C (96.8°F). The cooler conditions, with temperatures between 19°C (66.2°F) and 31°C (87.8°F), occur in December. By contrast, the hottest period, with high temperatures from 36°C (96.8°F) to 36°C (96.8°F), occurs from March to April. There are slight variations in temperature throughout the year, but the average high stays above 30°C (86°F), providing a consistently warm climate.
A significant feature of the weather here is the rainfall variations throughout the year. The driest month is January with a minimal rainfall of 1mm (0.04″), while the wettest month, with a rainfall from 250mm (9.84″), is observed in September. On average, the city experiences rainfall on 18 days in August, September, and July, while only a single day with rainfall occurs in January.
The best time to visit Siem Reap
Considering the weather parameters like temperature, rainfall, and sunshine hours, the ideal period to plan a visit to Krong Siem Reap would be from November to February. During these months, temperatures range from 20°C (68°F) to 34°C (93.2°F), providing comfortable weather suitable for outdoor activities. In addition, these months witness less rainfall, between 1mm (0.04″) and 61mm (2.4″) which significantly reduces the possibility of facing rain-induced disruptions.
The worst time to visit Siem Reap
The period from May to October proves to be the least favourable time to visit Krong Siem Reap. During these months, the city faces the highest rainfall ranging from 146mm (5.75″) to 250mm (9.84″). Also, the number of days with rainfall is remarkably high, with up to 18 rainy days in a month. Additionally, the peak of summer, from 33°C (91.4°F) to 36°C (96.8°F), occurs during these months, which when combined with high humidity due to frequent rain, might cause discomfort to visitors.
Other places to visit while in Siem Reap
1. Angkor Archaeological Park
Visit the Angkor Archaeological Park and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Angkor is one of the most important archaeological sites in South-East Asia. Stretching over some 400 km2, including a forested area, Angkor Archaeological Park contains the magnificent remains of the different capitals of the Khmer Empire, from the 9th to the 15th century.
2. APOPO Visitor Center
isit APOPO’s Landmine Rats! If you’re looking for cool things to do in Siem Reap, why not stop by the APOPO Visitor Center and take a unique guided tour? You can find out all about how we train our amazing HeroRATs to find landmines
Where to stay in Siem Reap
1. Mid Range: Boutique Indochine d’Angkor
During our stay in Siem Reap, we stayed at this hotel. The staff were so kind and helpful, which is typical of Cambodia. It is a small and compact hotel a little way outside of the main tourist area of Siem Reap – hence quieter. We walked to the Riverside area from here in about 15 minutes, but you can always catch a tuk-tuk ride.
The rooms were comfortable and there was on an onsite restaurant that served breakfast where you could always get lunch and dinner if you didn’t fancy venturing out.
2. Luxury – Viroth’s Hotel
Located in the vibrant Wat Bo area, Viroth’s Hotel offers accommodations amid private vertical gardens in the heart of Siem Reap. Boasting a 20-yard outdoor pool and an open-air restaurant, Viroth’s Hotel offers 50’s-styled contemporary accommodations with free WiFi throughout the property. It operates a 24-hour front desk, features free parking on-site and provides daily housekeeping service.
Strategically located, the hotel is just 1312 feet from the Old Market and 1476 feet from the famous Pub Street.
3. Budget – Onederz Siem Reap
Located 984 feet from Pub Street in Siem Reap, Onederz Hostel Siem Reap features free WiFi access and free private parking. Guests can enjoy the on-site restaurant or relax at the two swimming pools, one located on the rooftop where a view of the sunset can be admired.
Featuring both private rooms and dormitories, each unit at Onederz Hostel Siem Reap comes with air conditioning. Guests staying in dormitory rooms will find electric sockets, reading lamps and accessory cases in each bed.
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