Paro, set in a broad valley surrounded by forested hills and snow-capped peaks, is a quiet Bhutanese town where traditional wooden houses, ancient monasteries, and terraced fields coexist peacefully with the slow rhythm of everyday life.
Bhutan: Thimpu – The Capital city
About Thimphu
Thimphu, the capital city of Bhutan, lies nestled in a broad valley along the banks of the Wang Chhu River, surrounded by forested hills and towering Himalayan peaks. Unlike many capitals, it has managed to retain the tranquil atmosphere of a small town, blending modern development with deep-rooted tradition. The streets are lined with whitewashed buildings adorned with ornate wooden windows, and fluttering prayer flags decorate every hillside and rooftop. Despite being the political and economic centre of Bhutan, Thimphu feels calm and unhurried, with monks in crimson robes walking alongside office workers dressed in the traditional gho and kira. The city’s skyline is dominated not by glass towers but by monasteries, dzongs, and chortens that reflect the strong spiritual fabric of Bhutanese life.
Thimphu became Bhutan’s capital in 1961, during the reign of the third king, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, marking a turning point in the country’s gradual modernisation. Yet, even as paved roads and government buildings appeared, the city held fast to its cultural identity. The Tashichho Dzong, a grand fortress on the northern edge of the city, houses both the throne room of His Majesty the King and the seat of the Central Monastic Body. Nearby, the Memorial Chorten — built in honour of the same king — stands as one of the most visited and loved monuments in Bhutan, where locals of all ages circumambulate the white stupa, spinning prayer wheels and murmuring mantras. Thimphu is also home to many important institutions, such as the National Library, the Folk Heritage Museum, and the School of Traditional Arts, all dedicated to preserving the kingdom’s heritage in the face of change.
Life in Thimphu flows at a pace that mirrors Bhutan’s philosophy of Gross National Happiness — a balance of material progress and spiritual wellbeing. The weekly Centenary Farmers’ Market bursts with colour and energy, offering everything from red rice and chillies to handmade incense and textiles. Cafés and handicraft shops coexist with monasteries and quiet walking trails, while festivals such as the Thimphu Tshechu bring the community together in vibrant celebration. Despite its modest size and lack of traffic lights — a rarity for any capital city — Thimphu embodies a unique harmony between the old and the new. It stands as a living expression of Bhutan’s ability to embrace the modern world without losing sight of its values, traditions, and serene way of life.
Our two day visit to Thimpu
Day One
🕉️ The Memorial Stupa – Heart of the City
Our first destination was the Memorial Stupa, also known as the Thimphu Chorten, one of the city’s most beloved religious landmarks.
The Thimphu Chorten is not just a monument but a living place of worship, where the rhythm of devotion continues from dawn to dusk. Built in 1974 to honour the third King of Bhutan, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, it stands as a symbol of peace and compassion. For many Bhutanese, this stupa represents the spiritual heart of Thimphu.
A chorten, in Bhutanese Buddhism, is a receptacle for offerings or relics – often containing sacred texts or the ashes of revered lamas. A large chorten is known as a stupa. The word “chorten” means seat of faith, and walking around one is considered an act of meditation and merit.
After paying our small entry fee, we entered through a peaceful gateway into manicured gardens filled with prayer flags fluttering in the soft breeze. The whitewashed stupa rose ahead, gleaming under the sun, crowned with a golden spire that glimmered like a flame. A smaller spire above the porch added an elegant touch to its design.
To one side stood a small hut housing large red prayer wheels. We joined the locals in turning them clockwise, listening to the hollow thrum echoing through the courtyard. Next to the wheels, glass enclosures sheltered rows of butter lamps, their golden flames flickering in devotion.
Inside the stupa, each floor offered a glimpse into Bhutanese faith and artistry. On the first floor, four shrines featured images of the third king and a central statue of the Buddha. Behind them stretched a vast and vividly painted wooden carving—a tower of wrathful deities and protectors spanning three floors. Climbing higher gave us a closer look at these fierce but benevolent figures, guardians of wisdom and compassion.
Back outside, we joined the circle of devotees walking clockwise around the stupa. Elderly Bhutanese in traditional dress moved slowly but steadily, prayer beads in hand. For many, this ritual of circumambulation is part of daily life. Some stopped to chat or rest in the sun, sharing laughter and stories. It felt as much a social gathering as a spiritual act. We, the foreigners, were lightweights—three rounds felt plenty, but for the regulars, it was a daily rhythm of faith.
🪷 Buddha Dordenma – The Giant on the Hill
The day before, as we drove into Thimphu, we had glimpsed a vast golden figure gazing serenely over the valley from the mountainside. Now, we set off for a closer look.
Perched at 2,655 metres (8,711 feet), Buddha Point, as it is affectionately called, offers one of Bhutan’s most impressive sights. Here stands the Buddha Dordenma, one of the largest Buddha statues in the world. Measuring 51.5 metres high and built atop the ruins of Kuensel Phodrang, the former palace of the 13th Druk Desi, the statue dominates the skyline with quiet majesty.
The story behind the Buddha Dordenma is steeped in prophecy. According to Guru Rinpoche in the 8th century, a giant Buddha statue would one day be built in this region to bring peace and prosperity during a time of spiritual decline. Centuries later, the yogi Sonam Zangpo reaffirmed this vision, predicting that a great statue of Buddha, Guru Rinpoche, or a Phurba would rise here.
Construction began in 2006, initiated by King Jigme Singye Wangchuck, and completed in 2015. The project was designed to promote peace and happiness, and was funded by philanthropists including Singaporean billionaire Rinchen Peter Teo. Built of bronze and gilded with gold, the statue was crafted by artisans from Bhutan, India, and China. Its chief design was by Jenzop Lopen Sangay from Paro Shaba, and the final cost was around $100 million.
It was a glorious day—blue skies and drifting clouds framed the golden figure perfectly. From the viewing platform, the Buddha shone in the sunlight, gazing out over Thimphu Valley. The atmosphere was calm and meditative. Around the base, colourful bas-reliefs depicted elephants, horses, peacocks, and celestial beings, all rendered in vivid hues.
Encircling the platform were 32 statues of goddesses of offering, each holding a different item symbolising good fortune and devotion. Inside the statue, a vast meditation hall awaited. We removed our shoes and entered the cool, dim space. Cameras were not allowed, but the interior remains etched in memory—a hall filled with 125,000 miniature Buddha statues, each donated by devotees. Every surface shimmered with gold and colour, from the mandalas on the ceiling to the intricate wall paintings depicting the twelve deeds of the Buddha.
The central image was Guru Rinpoche, surrounded by offerings of food, flowers, and bowls of clear water. In Bhutan, water is the most humble and pure offering—available to all, regardless of wealth or status.
Below the main meditation hall was a smaller, quieter temple. Few visitors seemed aware it was open, and we had it entirely to ourselves. There we admired simple but moving Buddha figures and a scripture laid open on a low table.
Outside again, we wandered across the wide square below the statue. During festivals, this open space fills with thousands of worshippers. Today, it was quiet, and the view over Thimphu was breathtaking. As we descended the monumental staircase to the car park, we looked back at the serene figure gleaming in the afternoon sun.
🏙️ Wandering the Capital
Back in town, we were dropped at our hotel before heading out for lunch. Thimphu, though Bhutan’s capital, feels more like a friendly provincial town. Later, our guide Sangay took us through the craft market, a long stretch of stalls selling handmade textiles, carved masks, and woven baskets. We wandered politely, admiring the craftsmanship even though we weren’t buying. Bhutanese vendors are refreshingly gentle—no pushy sales talk, just quiet smiles.
After a brief rest, we ventured out again in the evening. It was Diwali, and although Bhutan is largely Buddhist, the festival of lights had caught on with local children. Firecrackers and small fireworks lit up the streets. Some of the children looked barely five, gleefully playing with sparklers and rockets, entirely unsupervised—it felt both chaotic and charming. We browsed a few small shops in search of a local liqueur Karen had seen advertised, but had to settle for Bhutanese whisky instead. It proved surprisingly drinkable!
Sleep was another matter. Our room overlooked the main square, where fireworks crackled and dogs barked deep into the night. When the fireworks finally stopped, the dogs carried on as if reluctant to surrender the stage.
Day 2
💌 The Bhutan Post Office and Our Custom Stamps
The following morning began on a lighter note. After breakfast, Sangay and Dawa arrived to take us to the Thimphu Post Office, home to a small postal museum. Although we peeked briefly at the exhibits, our real mission lay across the road in the adjoining souvenir shop—where visitors can create their own custom postage stamps.
It sounded gimmicky, but once we saw it in action, we couldn’t resist. Karen found a cheerful photo on her phone of the two of us wearing red plastic noses for the BBC’s Children in Need campaign. Within minutes, the friendly staff had printed a dozen official Bhutanese stamps featuring our smiling faces—valid for sending mail anywhere in the world. We couldn’t help but laugh at the novelty of it all as we bought postcards to send to family and friends, proudly sticking our stamps in the corner.
📜 Jungshi Handmade Paper Factory
Next, we drove up into the hills overlooking Thimphu to visit the Jungshi Handmade Paper Factory, one of Bhutan’s most charming small industries.
The traditional art of papermaking, known as Dezo, dates back to the 8th century and likely arrived from Tibet and China. Historically, the fine paper called desho was used for printing Buddhist scriptures and religious texts, written in natural inks or even gold dust.
The factory was established in 1990 by the Bhutanese government to preserve this ancient craft and was later privatised by Norbu Tenzin, a master papermaker. Despite its modest size, the workshop was buzzing with activity when we visited.
We followed the process from start to finish: the bark of the Daphne and Dekap trees is first softened, then pounded into pulp. This pulp is mixed with starch and water in a large wooden vat, before being lifted onto a bamboo screen. Here, the artisans skilfully spread it into thin sheets, which are stacked and dried individually on smooth wooden boards.
The result is a beautiful, textured paper—strong yet delicate, used for everything from calligraphy to gift wrapping. Before leaving, we browsed the small shop filled with handmade journals, cards, and albums, each piece as lovely as the next.
🧵 The Bhutan Textile Museum
Our next stop was the Bhutan Textile Museum, founded in 2001 under the patronage of Her Majesty Queen Mother Gyalyum Sangay Choden Wangchuck. Her aim was to preserve and promote Bhutan’s intricate weaving traditions, which risked being lost to modernisation.
The museum began with just 244 artefacts, but its collection has grown to more than 2,000 pieces, representing centuries of craftsmanship. Before touring the exhibits, we watched a short introductory film explaining the cultural role of weaving—or Thagzo, one of the thirteen traditional Bhutanese crafts known collectively as Zorig Chusum.
Inside, the main hall displayed an exquisite range of textiles— ceremonial robes, festival garments, and daily wear—all woven in vivid colours and complex geometric patterns. The Gho (for men) and Kira (for women) dominate Bhutanese dress, each piece meticulously crafted by hand. The Gho, a knee-length robe, was introduced in the 17th century by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel to establish a national identity, while the Kira, an ankle-length dress, remains the pride of Bhutanese women across regions.
The second gallery focused on Royal Family collections, displaying elegant garments and personal textiles belonging to Bhutan’s queens and princesses. Beyond the permanent exhibits, a temporary display highlighted the work of contemporary Bhutanese weavers, some of which were available for purchase.
Before leaving, we crossed to the adjoining weaving workshop, where several women sat quietly at their looms, creating vibrant fabrics with steady hands. Karen was completely absorbed, and we lingered for some time, captivated by the rhythmic clack of the looms and the patience behind every stitch.
🌾 A Glimpse into Folk Life
A short drive away, we stopped at the National Folk Heritage Museum, a smaller, rustic space housed in a traditional Bhutanese farmhouse. Compared to the large-scale museums we’d visited elsewhere, it was intimate and atmospheric. The rooms were furnished as they would have been centuries ago, complete with clay stoves, wooden utensils, and thick beams blackened by smoke. Though our visit was brief—perhaps twenty minutes—it offered a charming window into the simplicity of rural Bhutanese life
🕍 Changangkha Lhakhang — Blessings for the Young
Perched on a ridge overlooking the city, the Changangkha Lhakhang is one of Thimphu’s oldest temples, dating back to the 13th or 14th century. Small and ancient, it exudes a deep sense of continuity. Families from across Bhutan bring their newborns here for blessings and even to receive their names.
When we arrived, the courtyard was filled with parents carrying tiny babies wrapped in colourful blankets. Monks in saffron robes moved among them, offering prayers and rituals to the protector deity Tamdin, guardian of children. Bells rang softly, and the hum of chants carried in the cool mountain air. Watching these quiet ceremonies was deeply moving — it felt like being witness to something profoundly personal yet universal.
🏰 Tashichho Dzong — The Fortress of the Glorious Religion
As the day drew to an end, we made our way to Tashichho Dzong, the magnificent fortress-monastery that houses the throne room and offices of Bhutan’s King, along with several government ministries.
We arrived in time for the sunset flag-lowering ceremony, a brief but striking ritual. A procession of monks and soldiers emerged from the dzong, accompanied by a small band playing solemn music. The Bhutanese flag was lowered slowly as the last light of day washed over the white walls. Afterward, we followed the group through the gates to explore the dzong itself.
Only certain sections are open to the public, but what we saw was unforgettable — towering whitewashed walls, carved wooden panels painted in reds and golds, and a vast courtyard ringed with prayer halls. The main temple held beautiful murals of mandalas and deities, their colours glowing under the red evening lights.
When we stepped outside again, the entire dzong was illuminated in deep amber tones, glowing like a jewel against the night. It was a majestic and fitting end to our time in Thimphu — a city that blends serenity, spirituality, and royal splendour in perfect harmony.
🌙 Final Thoughts
Our two days in Thimphu revealed a capital that feels more like a living monastery than a modern city. From spinning prayer wheels at dawn to watching the flag lowered at sunset, every moment carried a quiet peace. Bhutan’s capital may be small, but it has a powerful cultural heart — rooted in faith, craft, and community.
The best time to visit Bhutan
🌸 Spring (March to May)
Spring is one of the most beautiful times to visit Bhutan. The valleys burst into life with blooming rhododendrons, magnolias, and jacarandas, painting the hillsides in shades of pink, red, and white. The weather is mild and pleasant, with temperatures ranging between 15°C and 25°C in the daytime. The skies are usually clear, offering perfect views of the Himalayas. This season is also filled with cultural festivals such as the famous Paro Tshechu, which gives travellers a wonderful insight into Bhutan’s traditional dance and spiritual heritage. It’s an excellent time for trekking, photography, and sightseeing as the natural landscape is at its most vibrant.
🌞 Summer (June to August)
Summer in Bhutan coincides with the monsoon season, bringing lush greenery and frequent rainfall, particularly in the southern and central regions. While this can make trekking more challenging, it is still a peaceful time to visit as there are fewer tourists. The countryside is at its greenest, and the air feels fresh and pure. Rain showers are often short-lived and mostly occur in the afternoons or evenings, leaving the mornings clear for exploration. For those interested in the flora and fauna of Bhutan, this season offers a chance to see rare orchids and butterflies in full display. However, mountain views may be limited due to mist and cloud cover.
🍁 Autumn (September to November)
Autumn is considered the most popular and rewarding time to visit Bhutan. The monsoon rains fade away, leaving behind crisp, clear skies and cool temperatures ranging from 10°C to 20°C. The landscape is lush after the rains, and the air clarity makes it ideal for mountain photography and long treks. This is also the season of some of the most significant festivals, such as the Thimphu and Wangdue Tshechus, which attract both locals and travellers. Trekking routes like the Druk Path and Jomolhari are at their best, offering stunning views of the snow-capped peaks. If you want the perfect balance between pleasant weather, cultural richness, and scenic beauty, autumn is hard to beat.
❄️ Winter (December to February)
Winter in Bhutan is cold, especially in the higher regions, but it is also peaceful and remarkably clear. In western and central Bhutan, temperatures can drop below freezing at night, though the days are often sunny and bright. It’s an excellent season for visiting the lower valleys such as Punakha and Phobjikha, where the famous black-necked cranes migrate for the winter. This is also a good time for photography and temple visits, as the skies are deep blue and the tourist crowds are minimal. However, trekking in high mountain areas is generally not advised due to snow and icy conditions.
🎒 What to Pack
No matter when you visit Bhutan, layering is key. Pack light, breathable clothes for daytime, and warm layers for the evenings, especially if you are visiting high-altitude areas. A good waterproof jacket is essential during the monsoon months and useful year-round due to unpredictable weather in the mountains. Comfortable walking shoes or boots are a must, as most sightseeing involves gentle hikes or uneven terrain. Sunglasses, sunscreen, and a hat are recommended for the strong mountain sun. In winter, include thermal wear, gloves, and a warm hat. A small backpack for day trips and a refillable water bottle will also come in handy.
📅 Seasonal Summary Chart
| Season | Months | Weather | Highlights | Ideal For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 🌸 Spring | Mar–May | Mild & colourful | Flower blooms, Paro Tshechu | Trekking, culture, photography |
| 🌞 Summer | Jun–Aug | Warm, rainy, lush | Green landscapes, few tourists | Nature, quiet retreats |
| 🍁 Autumn | Sep–Nov | Cool & clear | Major festivals, mountain views | Trekking, sightseeing |
| ❄️ Winter | Dec–Feb | Cold & sunny | Black-necked cranes, peace & solitude | Birdwatching, photography |
🌄 Overall Best Time to Visit Bhutan
The overall best time to visit Bhutan is from late September to November. During these months, the skies are clear, the weather is comfortable, and the scenery is at its most spectacular. It’s also the prime time for experiencing Bhutan’s most vibrant festivals and enjoying treks with breathtaking Himalayan views. However, if you prefer fewer crowds and blooming landscapes, spring (March to May) is a close second and equally magical in its own way.
Where to stay in Thimpu
1. Mid Range: Kisa Villa
Kisa Villa in Thimphu is a small, elegant hotel that offers a peaceful retreat in the heart of Bhutan’s bustling capital. It combines the warmth of Bhutanese hospitality with modern comforts, making it an ideal choice for travellers who want a homely yet refined stay. The building itself is beautifully designed, blending traditional Bhutanese architectural features such as carved woodwork and decorative cornices with a fresh, contemporary interior. Rooms are spacious, clean, and well-furnished, with large windows that allow in plenty of natural light and provide lovely views of the surrounding hills and cityscape. The hotel’s restaurant serves a good mix of Bhutanese, Indian, and international dishes, and breakfast is usually included in the room rate. Guests often remark on the kindness of the staff, who go out of their way to make everyone feel welcome and comfortable. Located conveniently near the centre of Thimphu, Kisa Villa is within walking distance of cafés, handicraft shops, and several key attractions, making it both practical and relaxing. It is particularly appreciated by travellers who prefer a smaller, more personal atmosphere rather than a large, impersonal hotel, offering the perfect balance between comfort, charm, and local character.
2. Luxury – Pemako
Pemako Thimphu is one of the city’s most refined hotels, offering a seamless blend of Bhutanese tradition and understated luxury. Set against the dramatic backdrop of the surrounding mountains, the hotel combines classic Himalayan architecture with contemporary comfort, creating an atmosphere that feels both tranquil and sophisticated. The interiors are beautifully designed with carved woodwork, handwoven textiles, and soft lighting that reflect Bhutan’s unique craftsmanship and cultural heritage. Spacious rooms and suites feature warm wooden tones, plush furnishings, and large windows that open onto views of the valley or the landscaped gardens. Dining at Pemako is a highlight, with restaurants serving a mix of Bhutanese and international cuisine, prepared using fresh, locally sourced ingredients. The hotel also features a serene spa offering traditional hot stone baths and holistic treatments inspired by Bhutanese wellness traditions, as well as a fitness centre and indoor pool for relaxation after a day exploring the capital. Its location, close to the main sights of Thimphu yet set apart enough to offer peace and privacy, makes it ideal for travellers who want comfort and calm in equal measure. Every detail at Pemako, from the warm hospitality of the staff to the elegant décor, captures the essence of Bhutanese charm and the spirit of mindful luxury.
3. Budget – Norbu Healing Hotel
Nestled just a short five-minute drive from the heart of Thimphu in the peaceful Olakha/Changjalu area, the Norbu Healing Hotel offers a tranquil base for visitors seeking both comfort and calm in Bhutan’s capital. Its name—“Norbu”, which means “jewel” in English—alongside “Healing”, reflects the hotel’s intention to provide more than mere lodging: a nurturing environment where attention to wellness and hospitality is paramount. The accommodation comprises well-appointed deluxe rooms, each thoughtfully furnished with comforts such as a balcony offering mountain or garden views, a private bathroom, a smart TV, a study desk, a tea/coffee facility and free WiFi.
Beyond the rooms, the hotel distinguishes itself with an in-house wellness and spa offering: steam room, sauna, massages and other body treatments are available, making it ideal for travellers who wish to unwind after exploring. Dining is served at the on-site restaurant and bar, where a selection of multi-cuisine dishes is complemented by views through large windows—inviting you to linger over lunch or dinner.
More to Explore
