Bhutan: Dochula Pass

July 20, 2024
Bhutan
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The Dochu La is a mountain pass in the snow covered Himalayas within Bhutan on the road from Thimphu to Punakha where 108 memorial chortens or stupas known as "Druk Wangyal Chortens" have been built.

After reaching Paro in Bhutan and meeting with our guide and driver we headed off to a village called Gangtey where there was going to be a festival the following day that we’d be attending. To get there would be a six-hour drive through the hills.

It was not long before we were out of the city and travelling through the countryside. I was surprised by how different Bhutan felt from Nepal, despite being relatively close to each other. For one thing, the roads were a lot better and less busy. Bhutan is a small country with a population of around 770,000 people – so everywhere, including the cities feels much more open. Also, the air was a lot colder, less humid, and clearer. There was a real autumnal feel as we passed along the roads through the valleys and wound our way up towards the mountain pass.

Everywhere else we’d been in our recent travels the vegetation had been green, here the leaves were starting to turn shades of orange and yellow.

Along the road, we noticed some niches in the cliffs that had been turned into small shrines. Our driver pulled over so we could get a closer look. Shelves had been carved into the rocks on which there were hundreds, possibly thousands, of small objects. We were told they were called Tsa Tsas and are a common sight in Bhutan especially if you are wandering around in the mountains. About 3 inches tall, and in the form of a cylindrical cone, Tsa Tsas are found in caves, or underneath rocks, and in those places sheltered from the elements. Mostly painted white, some can also be seen in gold and red. This nonchalant artefact is a powerful expression of farewell for Buddhists. In Bhutan, Tsa Tsas are moulded out of the ash collected from the cremation pyre. Commissioned by the bereaved family, and made by monks over special religious ceremonies, Tsa Tsas serve to memorialize those who have passed on.

After about two and a half hours of driving, we reached Dochula Pass, which is at 3100m (10170 feet). The air was thinner here and there was a nip in the air. There is a restaurant up here, which is where we were headed, but before then Sangay suggested we go and look at the monument which sits atop the pass.

There are 108 memorial stupas built in memory of the 108 Bhutanese soldiers who were killed in the 2003 battle against Indian rebels during the first-ever operation “Operation All Clear” conducted by the Royal Bhutan Army. We walked among these, initially catching our breath, admiring their beauty, and reflecting on what these stupas represented.

Just beyond the memorial is a small park, so we went across to check this out too.
After our perambulations, we walked back across the road to the restaurant. We had a seat in the window, where on a clear day (which it was not) you get a fantastic view of the whole of the Bhutan Himalaya Range. Our first experience of eating Bhutanese food was great – I particularly liked the beans in a cheesy chilli sauce, which had a bit of a kick to it.

From the pass, we headed down towards the valley. Dawa was an extremely cautious driver. Karen commented later that he was a bit slow, which tells you how cautious he actually was. Mind you in Bhutan things do happen at a slower pace and the drivers overall are not as crazy as we’d experienced in Nepal.

We made one more stop along the way for a cup of tea and some biscuits at a small restaurant.
Back on the road, the views continued to be spectacular, with the occasional surprise.

Karen thought she had spotted an owl up in the trees. It turned out to be a grey langur, and just a few metres on there were a whole load on the side of the road preparing to roost for the night. They are wonderful animals, with a grey and white body, and a black face which is encapsulated by a bit white ruff. We pulled over to take some photos, and they didn’t seem too bothered by us being there and happily posed for some pictures.

The best time to visit Bhutan

The geographical position of Bhutan, nestled in the eastern Himalayas between China to the north and India to the south, plays a significant role in its climate and weather conditions. Contrary to the “ET” Köppen climate classification which corresponds to a Tundra Climate, Bhutan experiences a greater diversity in weather patterns due to its complex topography and altitude variations. Mean annual temperatures seldom dip below freezing, but regions with higher altitude can see large temperature ranges within a day. Precipitation, primarily rainfall, is moderate and most pronounced in the summer months with annual totals averaging 350mm (13.78″). During winter, drier conditions prevail, often with sporadic snowfall in the upper reaches. With days frequently cloudy, the country experiences temperatures from 15°C (59°F) to 18°C (64.4°F) in summers, although the average temperature of the warmest month is less than 10°C (50°F).

The best time to visit Bhutan

Spring and autumn, from March to May and September to November respectively, provide the most favourable periods to visit Bhutan. These seasons present pleasant weather, with temperatures ranging from 10°C (50°F) to 20°C (68°F), offering splendid panoramas of the mountains and lush valleys. Springtime is particularly vibrant, with blooming rhododendrons painting the landscapes, while autumn showcases clear skies and exquisite autumnal hues. These periods are also when the country hosts most of its significant religious festivals, enhancing the cultural experience for visitors.

The worst time to visit Bhutan

The least ideal time for a visit to Bhutan is the monsoon season, running from June to August. During this time, the country experiences heavy rainfall, leading to slippery roads and occasional landslides, which may hamper travel plans. The consistent cloud cover also limits the scenic views of the mountains and valleys. Additionally, temperatures tend to be high and humidity levels increase, reaching uncomfortable levels, particularly in the southern parts of the country.

Weather month-by-month

Visiting Bhutan December to February

From December to February Bhutan is at its coldest; especially in the mountains, but clear skies reward those who brave the low temperatures. The valleys are warmer and sunny with clear views of the incredible Himalaya. Due to colder temperatures, visitor numbers will be lower.

Visiting Bhutan March to April

March and April are among the most popular times to travel as temperatures are pleasant and the valleys are abundant in nature; especially as all the flowers start to bloom. Early April witnesses the Paro Tshechu, so book ahead to get the best accommodation and flights.

Holi festival is becoming more well-known around the world, but it isn’t just an Indian festival; it’s celebrated across the cities and towns of Nepal every March too.

Rhododendron season (March to May): Similar to Nepal, Bhutan’s landscapes are at their best at this time of year before the monsoon arrives, with colourful rhododendrons carpeting the hillsides.

Trekking in Bhutan (October to November and March to April): Trekking is a wonderful way to see the beautiful scenery of this wonderful, little-visited country. These months offer the best weather for mountain walks and overnight stays in characterful teahouses.

Visiting Bhutan in May

Temperatures increase in May, bringing humidity as well as cloud over the mountains. However, fewer visitors and lower prices can make it a perfectly viable time to visit. The rhododendrons should also still be in bloom — ideal for photographers and nature lovers.

Rhododendron season (March to May): Similar to Nepal, Bhutan’s landscapes are at their best at this time of year before the monsoon arrives, with colourful rhododendrons carpeting the hillsides.

Visiting Bhutan June to August

June to August (and sometimes into September) is monsoon season in Bhutan. Although showers can occur at night without spoiling daytime explorations, conditions aren’t ideal for trekking. Sightseeing is still possible — just be prepared with a raincoat! It’s also ideal for retreating to a spa. Views are best in the mornings following night-time downpours.

Visiting Bhutan in September

September, October and November are ideal for hiking, seeing festivals (particularly the popular Thimphu Tshechu) and enjoying stunning views and pleasant temperatures. Expect it to be around 25°C in the sun, but there will be cooler temperatures in the evenings and at higher altitudes.

Visiting Bhutan in October

The majority of travellers (around 80% of all international visitors) want to visit Bhutan in October, so plan well in advance to ensure you get your preferred accommodation and good value flights.

Visiting Bhutan in Nov

Black-necked cranes migrate from the Tibetan Plateau to the protected Phobjikha Valley each year. They remain in the region from late October to early February. In Gangtey, a special festival is held every November to celebrate the arrival of the birds. Plan ahead if you want to be a part of it.

Black-necked crane festival (November): These endangered birds migrate to spend each winter in the Phobjikha Valley. The festival celebrating their arrival takes place in the courtyard of Gangtey Gonpa to promote their conservation.