Koutammakou Valley, located in northern Togo and extending into Benin, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its unique mud tower-houses (takienta) of the Batammariba people, reflecting a harmonious relationship between cultural traditions and the natural landscape.
Togo: Kpalimé – Mount Abou and local culture
About Kpalimé
Kpalimé is a charming city in southwestern Togo, set against a backdrop of lush hills and dense tropical forests. Located near the Ghanaian border, it serves as a hub for tourism and trade, especially in cocoa and coffee. The bustling central market offers visitors a glimpse into the vibrant daily life of the region, with rows of colourful produce stands and handmade crafts on display. Nature enthusiasts can explore nearby waterfalls such as Tomegbé and Yikpa, which cascade through the verdant landscape, while hiking trails in the surrounding forests reveal diverse flora and fauna. Kpalimé’s mild climate and welcoming atmosphere make it a popular destination for travellers seeking a blend of cultural immersion and outdoor adventure.
Mount Agou (sometimes spelt “Mount Abou”) is Togo’s highest peak, standing at just under 1,000 meters above sea level. Dominating the skyline not far from Kpalimé, the mountain offers panoramic vistas of rolling hills and distant villages. Adventurous visitors often hike the winding trails that ascend the slopes, passing through forests and farmland where local communities cultivate cocoa, coffee, and other crops. At the summit, one finds not only a rewarding view but also a sense of tranquillity and connection with the area’s natural beauty. Mount Agou remains a symbolic landmark in Togo—both for its geographical prominence and for the cultural significance it holds for the people who have lived in its shadow for generations.
Activity ideas
Hike Mount Abou
Mount Agou, stands at 986 meters (3,235 feet) and is the highest mountain in Togo. Located southeast of Kpalimé in the Plateaux Region, near the Ghanaian border, it offers panoramic views extending into Ghana from its summit. The mountain is part of the Atakora mountain range, which extends into neighbouring Ghana and Benin. Its slopes are filled with cocoa and coffee plantations, interspersed with banana plants and other fruit trees. A paved road leads to the summit, accessible by motorbike or car. Alternatively, unpaved footpaths used by locals provide hiking routes, crossing streams and passing waterfalls.
Mount Agou, stands at 986 meters (3,235 feet) and is the highest mountain in Togo. Located southeast of Kpalimé in the Plateaux Region, near the Ghanaian border, it offers panoramic views extending into Ghana from its summit. The mountain is part of the Atakora mountain range, which extends into neighbouring Ghana and Benin. Its slopes are filled with cocoa and coffee plantations, interspersed with banana plants and other fruit trees. A paved road leads to the summit, accessible by motorbike or car. Alternatively, unpaved footpaths used by locals provide hiking routes, crossing streams and passing waterfalls.
Historically, the region has been inhabited by the Ewe people. In the late 17th and early 18th centuries, Adangme refugees settled at Mount Agou, fleeing from slave traders. In 1870, Ashanti troops attempted to subdue the area but were repelled by the mountain villages, making the mountain a symbol of resistance. During the German protectorate of Togoland, it was known as Baumann Peak, named after geographer Oscar Baumann. Remnants of military installations from both the German era and French Togoland, including a World War II French military hospital, can still be found near the summit.
Our hike at Agou started a couple of hundred metres below the summit. We did not follow the road which winds its way to the top, instead, we followed the trail used by the locals which cuts through the forest. The trail is steep, and although there are steps, these are made of rough-hewn rocks and were different sizes and very uneven. Karen struggled with the height of some of the steps, which was not a problem for me – my issue was sometimes finding space for my huge feet. When we returned to England at the beginning of December we were both struggling with shoulder, legs and backs and although we had seen chiropractors and physical therapists to get things back into shape, this was the first real test. It kicked our collective butts, but we struggled through it.
As we neared the summit we approached a village, which is the highest one in Togo, we started to see more signs of civilisation. We arrived at a waterspout where women and girls were collecting water to take back to their homes further up the mountain. They filled large bowls with the water, which they balanced on their heads, and walked back uphill on the rocky trail. On their feet, they only had flip-flops!
Finally, we reached the village. The houses teetered on the side of the mountain. They were single-storey and were mostly made of mud or clay bricks.
It was Sunday so there were not many people around. A small group of children were gathered around a tree singing, accompanying themselves with an improvised drum made from a plastic water jug. We recognised the first song – it was Jingle Bells – but the second one was something new to us. Our guide told us it was the Togo National Anthem!
After resting for a few minutes, we continued upwards through the village and eventually reached the tarmac road. We were concerned we were going to have to walk back down – which would have been tough on this trail. Fortunately, that was not the plan. Our guide made a quick call, and shortly after the driver to collect us.
Our hike at Agou started a couple of hundred metres below the summit. We did not follow the road which winds its way to the top, instead, we followed the trail used by the locals which cuts through the forest. The trail is steep, and although there are steps, these are made of rough-hewn rocks and were different sizes and very uneven. Karen struggled with the height of some of the steps, which was not a problem for me – my issue was sometimes finding space for my huge feet. When we returned to England at the beginning of December we were both struggling with shoulder, legs and backs and although we had seen chiropractors and physical therapists to get things back into shape, this was the first real test. It kicked our collective butts, but we struggled through it.
As we neared the summit we approached a village, which is the highest one in Togo, we started to see more signs of civilisation. We arrived at a waterspout where women and girls were collecting water to take back to their homes further up the mountain. They filled large bowls with the water, which they balanced on their heads, and walked back uphill on the rocky trail. On their feet, they only had flip-flops!
Finally, we reached the village. The houses teetered on the side of the mountain. They were single-storey and were mostly made of mud or clay bricks.
It was Sunday so there were not many people around. A small group of children were gathered around a tree singing, accompanying themselves with an improvised drum made from a plastic water jug. We recognised the first song – it was Jingle Bells – but the second one was something new to us. Our guide told us it was the Togo National Anthem!
After resting for a few minutes, we continued upwards through the village and eventually reached the tarmac road. We were concerned we were going to have to walk back down – which would have been tough on this trail. Fortunately, that was not the plan. Our guide made a quick call, and shortly after the driver to collect us.
Kuma Konda Nature Walk
Established in 1920 following a familial division in Kuma-Adamé, part of the population settled in this remarkable area. The region’s cooler and more temperate climate, with two rainy and two dry seasons, distinguishes it from other parts of Togo. The local economy primarily revolves around agriculture, with residents cultivating coffee, cocoa, and various fruits. Additionally, the village has embraced tourism, with many locals specialising in creating artwork using local materials.
Our tour was labelled as a nature walk, which meant walking through the surroundings of Kuma Konda and seeing the crops that were being grown and the plants which are used for many things including household products, medicine and art.
We left the road and took a dirt trail which brought us into a small grove of coffee bushes. Coffee is one of the main products grown here. It is mostly an export product and brings in much-needed revenue. They grow both Robusta and Arabica varieties of coffee beans.
From the coffee bushes, we headed towards the centre of the village, stopping occasionally for our guide to show us a plant that is used in the community for herbal medicine or a dye for painting or batik work by local artists.
Eventually, we ended up at the main crossroads in the village – which gives its name Kunda. The plan was to go and visit an artist who works in the village, but he was already entertaining another group of tourists, so we instead went for a little wander around the village.
After about 15 minutes our guide got the call, and we went off to the gallery of Agbo Gosi. He was a young, amicable man who had grown up in this village. He had relations in Ghana, so he spoke good English. His work was based on three main forms, batik, paintings on canvas using acrylic and local dyes. Agbo’s preferred style is minimalist but some of his work was very colourful and expansive. We were very impressed, but as usual, we could not take any of his stuff with us as our bags were packed full and we had no room for anything.
After saying our goodbyes to Agbo, we carried on through the village briefly stopping at a small shop close to the community square and then at the workshop of another artist.
Karen had told our guide she enjoys visiting the classrooms of schools when we travel, so he had arranged for us to visit a local college. I think Karen had been hoping to go to primary school, but as our guide had arranged this with the head teacher it would have been rude to say no.
The college sits in between two villages, so we had to walk about 1.5km to the school. When we got there all the classes were in full swing. The head teacher was in class when we arrived, but he took a break to come and meet us – then allowed us to come into his room. The children here ranged in age from about 12 through to 18. Their main language is French – but they do learn some English – so Karen went through the routine of asking some of them their names and how old they were. Most of them were quite confident answering in English. The headteacher then took us to another class, of older children, and we went through the same routine. This group were not quite so confident!
We left the school and walked another 1.5km to the next village, where we made a quick stop at a house to try some of the local gin made from palm oil. It was very strong and tasted good. The man who served us was a sports coach at the college – and explained that they had limited resources there for children to participate in sports. We expressed sympathy with his frustrations – but unusually for us didn’t commit to helping.
After another brief stop at a small house to watch a couple of women making tofu from casava we headed out of the village to a small waterfall. It was small and had a pond at the base.
From the falls we headed back into the village where our driver was waiting to take us back to the hotel, where we spent the afternoon relaxing.
Planning your visit
Kpalimé (sometimes spelled “Kpalime”) is a scenic town nestled in the Plateaux Region of southwestern Togo, about 120 kilometers (75 miles) northwest of Lomé. Known for its lush forests, coffee and cocoa plantations, and nearby mountains (like Mont Klouto), it’s a popular spot for nature lovers and those looking to escape city life.
Depending on where you are coming from, below are some common ways to get to Kpalimé:
1. Traveling from Lomé, Togo
By Shared Taxi or Minibus
- Where to find them:
- In Lomé, shared taxis (“taxis brousse”) and minibuses to Kpalimé often depart from main transport hubs such as the “Gare Routière de Lomé” (a major bus station/parking) near the Grand Marché area, or the area known as “Adawlato.”
- Cost and Duration:
- The ride usually costs around 2,500–3,500 CFA francs (roughly USD 4–6), though prices can vary.
- Expect the journey to take approximately 2.5 to 3 hours, depending on traffic and road conditions.
- What to Expect:
- Shared taxis are usually sedan cars that seat four passengers in the back and one in the front (besides the driver).
- Minibuses can be more crowded but cheaper and relatively frequent.
By Private Car or Taxi
- Private Hire:
- You can negotiate with a taxi driver for a private ride. This will be more expensive but can be quicker and more comfortable.
- Agree on a price beforehand to avoid surprises.
2. Traveling from Ghana
If you are travelling from Ghana, there are two main approaches:
A. Via Lomé (Togo’s Capital)
- Cross the Border at Aflao (near the Ghanaian city of Aflao and Togolese city of Lomé):
- After crossing immigration, head to the transport hub in Lomé.
- From Lomé, follow the “Traveling from Lomé” steps above.
B. Via Eastern/Volta Region of Ghana
- Some travellers come from Ho or nearby areas and aim to cross into Togo through smaller border posts.
- Once in Togo, you may need a local taxi to a bigger town where you can catch a shared taxi or minibus to Kpalimé.
- These routes can be less straightforward, so it’s crucial to confirm border crossings and the availability of transport.
The best time to visit
Kpalimé, nestled in the lush highlands of southwestern Togo, experiences a tropical climate with distinct wet and dry seasons. Generally, the best time to visit Kpalimé is during the drier months—roughly from November to February—when rainfall is minimal, temperatures are a bit milder, and the roads leading to waterfalls and hiking trails are more navigable.
Here’s what to keep in mind for each season:
November to February (Dry Season)
- Pros: Lower chance of rain, easier travel on rural roads and hiking trails, more pleasant weather for outdoor activities.
- Cons: Can sometimes get dusty because of the Harmattan winds blowing from the Sahara.
March to July (Longer Rainy Season)
- Pros: Lush greenery at its peak, waterfalls are at their most impressive flow.
- Cons: Regular rainfall can hinder trekking and visiting remote attractions, roads might become muddy and difficult to navigate.
August to October (Shorter Rainy Season)
- Pros: Still relatively green and vibrant, less crowded than peak travel times, occasional festivals.
- Cons: Unpredictable rain showers can disrupt outdoor plans.
Where to stay
1. Hotel Royal
- Overview: One of the larger, well-known hotels in Kpalimé, often recommended for its central location and relatively modern amenities.
- What to Expect:
- Air-conditioned rooms
- On-site restaurant and bar
- 24-hour front desk and Wi-Fi in common areas
- Some rooms may include a private balcony
2. Hotel Geyser
- Overview: A comfortable mid-range option that aims to balance affordability with convenience.
- What to Expect:
- Clean, simple rooms with fans (some may have A/C)
- An on-site restaurant offering local dishes
- Friendly staff who can help arrange local tours
3. Auberge Papillon (or similar guesthouses)
- Overview: If you’re looking for a smaller, more personal accommodation, guesthouses like “Auberge Papillon” (the name can vary, as new guesthouses appear) offer a homier vibe.
- What to Expect:
- Fewer rooms, more intimate setting
- Possible shared bathrooms and common areas
- Home-cooked meals and local hospitality
4. Hotel Royal Le Refuge
- Overview: Sometimes referred to simply as “Le Refuge,” this hotel is noted for its garden area and greenery.
- What to Expect:
- Quiet, laid-back environment
- Rooms with fan or air-conditioning
- Outdoor seating area to enjoy the surrounding view
More to Explore
