The death of a twin is treated with deep cultural and spiritual significance. The concept of a dolla is closely related to these beliefs and customs.
Togo: Koutammakou Valley
Later in the day, we would be crossing the border in Ghana for the first time, but before then we had a journey north of Kara to visit the Koutammakou Valley, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its stunning natural beauty and cultural significance. The valley is home to the Batammariba people, whose unique mud tower houses, or Takienta, stand as architectural marvels that blend seamlessly with the surrounding landscape. These dwellings, which feature intricate designs and serve practical and symbolic purposes, are a testament to the Batammariba’s deep connection to their environment and rich traditions. The valley’s rolling hills, dotted with clusters of these remarkable structures, create a picturesque scene that captures the essence of harmony between nature and human ingenuity.
We made our way towards the valley, stopping to pick up our guide, Francis, who lives in one of the Batammariba villages. Unlike many of the villages we have seen, the communities are widely spread, and people live in family groups some distance away from their neighbours. Francis directed us to one of the compounds, where he introduced us to the man of the house, who also happened to be the chief of the village. We paid our tributes and set off to take a look at one of the Takientas.
Before entering the building, Francis explained about the conical shapes outside the front entrance of the Takienta. These were shrines to the animistic deities that the Batammariba people follow. The Batammariba have an animistic belief system where they revere nature spirits, often tied to specific natural features like rivers, mountains, and forests. Ancestor veneration plays a central role, as the spirits of the deceased are believed to guide and protect the living. Individuals are believed to have a personal deity or spiritual force that influences their lives.
Takienta houses are fortress-like, cylindrical or tower-shaped earthen buildings made from a mix of mud, clay, and straw. They are typically two stories high, with a flat roof and granaries integrated into the structure. The walls are thick, offering insulation against extreme heat and protection from external threats.
Francis led us inside the Takienta and started to explain the layout. Each Takienta is a self-contained compound, accommodating a family unit. The structures often include rooms for living, storage granaries for food, and small animal enclosures. Each element, from the orientation of the doors to the decorations on the walls, holds symbolic meaning tied to the Batammariba’s worldview.
Francis explained that the Batammariba people consider their architecture a sacred heritage, a living tradition passed down through generations. A right of passage for the men of the Batammariba to build a house for their family once they are married.
Our visit to the Batammariba was done, so we climbed back in the car and headed back to Kara
Planning your visit
Getting There
- Nearest Town: Kara, approximately 60-90 km from the valley, serves as a base for most visitors.
- Transport:
- By Air: Fly into Lomé-Tokoin International Airport (LFW) in Lomé, then take a domestic flight or drive to Kara.
- By Road: From Lomé, it’s an 8-10 hour drive to Kara, followed by a shorter drive to Koutammakou.
The best time to visit
The optimal time to visit Koutammakou Valley in Togo is during the dry season, which spans from November to March. During these months, the weather is generally sunny with lower humidity, making it ideal for outdoor activities such as hiking and exploring the unique Batammariba architecture. Daytime temperatures average between 20°C to 30°C (68°F to 86°F), with cooler nights around 15°C (59°F).
In contrast, the rainy season from April to October brings higher humidity and temperatures, often reaching up to 35°C (95°F) during the day. While the landscape becomes lush and green, frequent downpours can make hiking challenging and less enjoyable.
For the most pleasant experience, plan your trip between December and February, when the weather is at its best, allowing you to fully immerse yourself in the culture and natural beauty of Koutammakou.
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