Koutammakou Valley, located in northern Togo and extending into Benin, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its unique mud tower-houses (takienta) of the Batammariba people, reflecting a harmonious relationship between cultural traditions and the natural landscape.
Togo: Lome – Akodessawa Fetish Market
The Akodessawa Fetish Market—sometimes referred to as the Marché des Fétiches—is located in the Akodessawa district of Lomé, the capital city of Togo in West Africa. It is often described as one of the world’s largest and most well-known “voodoo” or traditional medicine markets, offering a unique glimpse into the spiritual and cultural practices of the region.
Traditional Practices: Vodun (also spelt Voodoo or Vodou) has deep roots in parts of West and Central Africa, including Togo, Benin, and Ghana. The religion centres on spirits, ancestors, and the forces of nature. Fetishes—objects believed to be imbued with spiritual power—play a significant role.
While the exact founding date is difficult to pinpoint, Akodessawa Fetish Market emerged over many decades as a centralised place where healers, priests, and practitioners could find the spiritual tools and ingredients they needed. Even as modern medicine becomes more accessible, many local communities still rely on traditional remedies, spiritual guidance, and ancestral practices. This ongoing need keeps the market vibrant.
The market is the world’s largest of its type, but it is relatively small. I didn’t count how many individual stands there were, but I would estimate there were a maximum of 20. We had been warned that there would be a lot of parts of dead animals and that was certainly the case – there were mostly heads of everything from horses to hedgehogs to baboons to leopards and lions, but the collection included other things such as baboons’ hands, tortoise shells, fish, reptiles – including crocodile and many birds. It was quite a horror collection – but having travelled to many wild and exotic places it was not too shocking to us.
Ben introduced us to a guide called Joseph, who shuttled us around the various booths explaining the practices of medicine that used these animal parts. It is still common for people to go fetish priests and healers who come to the market to source the ingredients for their treatments.
The sight of these dead animals was one thing – the smell was another. Even with my dreadful sense of smell, it was quite something.
Not everything on sale was an animal part, there were also statues of various shapes and sizes and masks to bring everything from good luck to fertility and protection from evil spirits.
Planning your visit to the Akodessawa Fetish Market
Location
The market is in Lomé, near the intersection of Avenue de la Nouvelle Marche and Boulevard du 13 Janvier (though addresses can be informal in Togo). It’s about a 15-minute taxi ride from Lomé’s city center.
Transportation
- Taxi: Taxis are the most common way to get around Lomé. Ensure you negotiate the fare before boarding or confirm the use of a meter, where available.
- Moto-Taxi (Zémidjan): These are motorbike taxis—often cheaper and faster for short distances, but be mindful of safety (helmet availability can be an issue).
- Guided Tours: Some local guides or tourism agencies include the Akodessawa Fetish Market as part of a city tour.
Practical Tips and Etiquette
Entry Fees and Photography
- It’s common to pay a small entry fee (often around CFA 2,000–3,000, but this can vary).
- If you plan to take photos, there may be an additional photography fee. Always ask for permission before taking pictures of people, shrines, or stalls.
Guides and Language
- French is the official language in Togo, though many locals also speak indigenous languages like Ewe and Mina.
- Hiring a local guide (often arranged on the spot or through your hotel) can help you navigate the market, translate, and provide cultural insights.
Bargaining
- Negotiation is expected if you plan to buy souvenirs. Prices for tourists are often inflated, so polite bargaining is normal.
- Remember that this market is not a mere tourist show—it’s also an active space for religious and medicinal purchases.
Cultural Sensitivity
- Be respectful of any requests not to touch or photograph certain items.
- Dress modestly if possible; while Togo is relatively relaxed, being respectful with your attire is a good practice in religious or traditional settings.
Health Precautions
- The market can be dusty and occasionally includes strong smells from animal products. If you have sensitivities, bring a face mask.
- Keep hand sanitiser on hand, especially if you plan on handling items.
- Before travelling to Togo, consult a travel clinic for recommended vaccinations (e.g., yellow fever, typhoid, hepatitis). Malaria prophylaxis is strongly advised.
The best time to visit
Lomé has a tropical climate with two distinct rainy seasons (roughly April–June and September–October) and a pronounced dry season. Generally, the best time to visit Lomé is during its dry months, from November to February. During this period, temperatures are a bit more moderate and humidity is lower, making outdoor activities and sightseeing more comfortable. If you prefer hotter weather, you can still enjoy Lomé between March and early April before the heavier rains begin, but be prepared for higher temperatures and occasional humidity.
Where to stay
1. Mid Range: Résidence Hôtelière Lauria
Résidence Hôtelière Lauria is a cosy accommodation option located in Lomé, the capital city of Togo. It offers comfortable rooms and suites equipped with essential amenities such as air conditioning, private bathrooms, and Wi-Fi. The property often provides additional services, including airport transfers, a 24-hour front desk, and daily housekeeping, aiming to ensure a convenient and pleasant stay for both business and leisure travellers.
2. Luxury – Nomads
Nomads Hotel is a relatively new boutique-style accommodation in Lomé, Togo’s bustling capital. While smaller and more intimate than large chain hotels, Nomads has begun to attract attention for its unique design, warm hospitality, and personable service. Below is an overview of what you might expect when staying there. (Note: Always confirm details directly with the hotel, as offerings can change over time.)
- Address: Nomads Hotel is located in a residential area of Lomé, often described as not far from the city center and within reasonable driving distance to the beach.
- Proximity to Airport: Gnassingbé Eyadéma International Airport is roughly a 15–25 minute drive, depending on traffic.
- Local Attractions: From the hotel, you can explore Lomé’s lively markets (like the Grand Marché), the National Museum, and the vibrant beachfront.
3. Budget – ELOGIA HOTEL
Elogia Hotel is a cosy accommodation option situated in Lomé, the capital city of Togo. Known for its warm hospitality, the hotel offers a range of amenities designed to ensure a comfortable stay for both leisure and business travellers. Rooms are typically equipped with air conditioning, ensuite bathrooms, and Wi-Fi access. Guests may also find an on-site restaurant serving a selection of local and international dishes, along with a bar or lounge area for refreshments.
Owing to its central location, visitors can explore nearby attractions such as the Grand Marché (the main market in Lomé) and the Independence Monument, or venture a bit further to discover local beaches along the Gulf of Guinea.
More to Explore
