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South Africa: Boulders Beach

Just around the corner from Simon’s Town lies Boulders Beach, a sheltered cove of soft white sand, massive granite boulders. Boulders Beach and neighbouring Foxy Beach are home to a colony of thousands of African penguins and it's great fun to watch them go about their daily business.

We planned today was going to be a long day out to the Cape of Good Hope, some 65km away to the south. Although it was not far, there were plenty of things to check out along the way.

Our route took us down along the M6 towards Camps Bay. It was another stunning morning, and the ocean was sparkling as we headed along the coastal shore, passing by the Twelve Apostles towering above us. Much of this section of the coastline is rocky, with tiny little coves.

The next section of road cuts right across the Cape Peninsula and eventually brings you into Simons Town, which is dominated by the naval shipyard, a not-so-attractive, but interesting facet of this part of the Cape coastline.

A few kilometres beyond Simons Town was our first real planned stop of the day, Boulders Beach. We had not come here to see boulders, although they were rather lovely, to see the large colony of African penguins.

The car park was well signposted, so we parked up and left our car in charge of the ‘volunteer’ attendants who make sure your car is safe whilst you are away and took the path towards the beach entrance. The path runs down along the seashore and as we walked, we got glimpses of the beautiful glistening waters and the small sandy beaches below. On the side of the path, there were dense bushes and in there were numerous nesting penguins. Some of the eggs had hatched and there were very cute baby penguins waddling about under the watchful gaze of their mothers. If you didn’t want to pay the entrance fee for the beach access, then you could get to see penguins for free!

Boulders Beach is a beautiful place come and enjoy the warmer waters - Western Cape, South Africa
Boulders Beach is a beautiful place come and enjoy the warmer waters
African penguins are in the bushes that run beside the path from the car park - Boulders Beach, Western Cape, South Africa
African penguins are in the bushes that run beside the path from the car park

The entrance to Boulders Beach, which is managed by South Africa National Parks, was only a short way from the car park. We paid Boulders Beach tourist entry fees of R170 ($9.63) – children are R85 ($4.81) each.

Once you are in you follow the pathway that goes onto the boardwalk that takes you through the dunes, where you’ll see more African penguins and down the beach, which was part sandy and part large, smooth boulders. Here we found hundreds of penguins going about their business.

Aftican penguins colony at Boulders Beach - Simons Town, Western Cape, South Africa
Aftican penguins colony at Boulders Beach
A penguin preening at Boulders Beach - Simon's Town, Western Cape, South Africa
A penguin preening at Boulders Beach

African penguins can be found in large colonies along the southwestern rocky coast of Africa from Namibia to Port Elizabeth, and many of the surrounding islands. African penguin populations have plummeted. While breeding pairs may have numbered in the millions in the early 20th century, less than 42,000 individuals remain today. Habitat loss, over-fishing, and coastal development are taking a toll.

While the African penguin may not be found in freezing temperatures, they are covered in an array of black, white, and grey dense, waterproof feathers that keep them dry and warm in the cold waters off the African coast. They also have a number of dot-like markings flecked across their white chests. These flecks help to individualize each penguin, as each penguin’s feather pattern is as individual as a human’s fingerprints. African penguins have distinct, sharply pointed beaks and black feet. The African penguin is one of the smallest penguin species. Males are generally slightly larger than their female counterparts. A full-grown male is about 24 to 27 inches (61 to 69 centimetres).

Penguin enjoying the waters - Boulders Beach, Western Cape, South Africa

Years ago, you could get down on the beach, but sadly people were not respectful of the penguins and often got far too close. Nowadays, viewing is restricted to watching from the boardwalk. We spent a long time watching the penguins. Some were just chilling on the beach and sunning themselves on the rocks, others were interacting (in other words fighting) and there were those who were coming in and out of the sea. Whilst they look clumsy on land, once they are in the water, they are supremely graceful.

The African penguin colony at Boulders Beach has declined over the years - Simons Town, Western Cape, South Africa
The African penguin colony at Boulders Beach has declined over the years
Viewing of the penguins is done from boardwalks and decks for their safety - Boulders Beach, Simon's Town, South Africa
Viewing of the penguins is done from boardwalks and decks for their safety

The path back to the outside world inevitably takes you back through the gift shop, where there were many children, inspired by the cuteness of the penguins, haranguing their parents to buy them a souvenir. We were not tempted as usual knowing how heavy and full our suitcases were – but to be fair the gift shop did have some lovely stuff.

At the car park, we found our car was still there and in one piece, so we gave our car attendant a small tip and continued our journey south to the aspirationally named Cape of Good Hope.

About Boulders Beach

Boulders Penguin Colony in Simons Town is home to a unique and endangered land-based colony of African Penguins. This colony is one of only a few in the world, and the site has become famous and a popular international tourist destination.

African Penguins were reclassified on 26 May 2010 from a Vulnerable to now Endangered status. In 1956 when the first full census was conducted on the African Penguin, there were approximately 150 000 breeding pairs counted. In 2009 there were only 26 000 breeding pairs left in the world.

Boulders Beach Brochure Download

Planning your visit to Boulders Beach

Boulders Beach

Situated in Simon’s Town, which can be reached via the M4 (Main Road) from the city centre, although getting to Muizenberg via the M3 or the M5 are both quicker in road time. From Muizenberg, the M4 continues via Fish Hoek to Simon’s Town.

Website:https://www.sanparks.org/parks/table_mountain/tourism/attractions.php#boulders
Hours:
  • Winter: April – September: 08:00 – 17:00
  • Summer: December – January: 07:00 – 19:30
  • February – March: 08:00 – 18:30
Fees:
  • South African Citizens and Residents: R44 per adult / R22 per child, per day
  • SADC Nationals (with passport): R88 per adult / R44 per child, per day
  • International Visitors: R176 per adult / R88 per child, per day

The best time to visit Cape Town

The best times to visit Cape Town are from March to May and from September to November. These shoulder seasons boast enviable weather, fewer crowds, and lower prices. When planning your trip, it’s important to note that the seasons here are reversed: South Africa’s summer corresponds with America’s winter, and vice versa. That said, Cape Town’s summer is the most popular (and most expensive) time to visit. Hotels and attractions are usually overflowing with travellers. Meanwhile, the Mother City clears out between June and August when chilly weather and frequent rainfall put a damper on tourist activities.

Other places to visit while in Cape Town

1. VICTORIA & ALFRED WATERFRONT

The V&A Waterfront is an iconic 123-hectare neighbourhood which welcomes millions of people from all over the continent and world. We celebrate heritage & diversity, champion art & design, support entrepreneurship & innovation & drive positive social, economic & environment.

2. ROBBEN ISLAND

Robben Island was used at various times between the 17th and 20th centuries as a prison, a hospital for socially unacceptable groups and a military base. Its buildings, particularly those of the late 20th century such as the maximum security prison for political prisoners, witness the triumph of democracy and freedom over oppression and racism.

3. BO-KAPP

The Bo-Kaap is an area of Cape Town, South Africa formerly known as the Malay Quarter. It is a former racially segregated area, situated on the slopes of Signal Hill above the city centre and is a historical centre of Cape Malay culture in Cape Town.

4. KIRSTENBOSCH BOTANICAL GARDENS

Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden is acclaimed as one of the great botanic gardens of the world. Few gardens can match the sheer grandeur of the setting of Kirstenbosch, against the eastern slopes of Cape Town’s Table Mountain.

Where to stay Cape Town

1. Luxury – Atlantic View Cape Town Boutique Hotel

Atlanticview Cape Town is a privately owned intimate 5-Star Boutique Hotel. It’s perfectly located close to all the main tourist attractions, nestled between the Atlantic Ocean and Table Mountain in Fashionable Camps Bay, “The South African Corniche”, packed with world-class restaurants, bars and beaches. The hotel is accessible to the Beaches (2 min), Table Mountain (5 min) Down Town or V+A Waterfront shopping Centre (10 min) and Cape Town International Airport (20 min). The Cape of Good Hope, Penguin Colony and Cape Winelands are less than an hour away.

The hotel has commanding 180-degree magnificent views sweeping from the top of Table Mountain and The Twelve Apostles range that disappears into the sea. It is truly the perfect place to holiday, honeymoon or simply take a break for a romantic weekend. This beautiful property is situated alongside a greenbelt/nature reserve in very quiet surroundings. It is far enough from the noisy crowds of the promenade but close enough to enjoy the beaches, bars and restaurants with spectacular views in all directions.

2. Mid Range – Anchor Bay Guest House

Anchor Bay Guest House is nestled on the slopes of Table Mountain within walking distance from the famous restaurants and nightlife of Sea Point. Less than 3.5 km away is the CBD of Cape Town, Cape Town Stadium, and of course, the extraordinary V&A Waterfront – a world-famous working harbour with many speciality restaurants, shops, boutiques, boat cruises, ferries to Robben Island, an aquarium and much more. 

3. Unique – The Grand Daddy

The Mother City’s most original, convenient and fun place to stay! The luxurious Grand Daddy Boutique Hotel on Long Street bustles with energy.

As well as standard rooms the Grand Daddy has an airstream trailer park on its rooftop. The seven original Airstream trailers each have their own decor theme and collectively reflect a typical South African road trip. Authentic Airstream trailers are incredible works of craftsmanship and their classic shape is unforgettably iconic.

4. Budget – Long Street Backpackers

Accurately described as “The Soul of Long Street” (Lonely Planet, 2011), this famous hostel is the epicentre of action on Cape Town’s most vibrant street. There are literally hundreds of eating, drinking and entertainment options right on the doorstep.

Sleeping up to 80 guests, this hostel features a lush internal courtyard that’s perfect for braais, ping-pong, chilling, and meeting fellow travellers. The iconic brick building also boasts two large, sun-drenched balconies, with views of Long Street and Signal Hill. There are dormitory-style accommodations, as well as single, twin, and double private rooms, all with shared bathrooms. There is a TV room with satellite TV, a pool table, a well-stocked communal kitchen, and fibre-speed WIFI.

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