Namibia: Twyfelfontein Rock Carvings

May 13, 2023
Namibia
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🪨 Namibia: Twyfelfontein Rock Carvings

🗺️ Getting There — The Long Road South from Palmwag

The drive south from Palmwag was, to put it plainly, a bit of a slog. The road was almost entirely gravel — properly corrugated, bone-rattling Namibian gravel — with only the odd short section of tarmac thrown in as a teaser, as if the road-builders had run out of budget and just stopped. Progress was slow, and your average speed dropped to something you’d normally associate with a mobility scooter. But here’s the thing: you genuinely didn’t mind, because the scenery was extraordinary. The landscape shifted and changed constantly, hills and rock formations rising out of the desert floor, sculpted over millennia by wind, heat and the occasional flash flood into shapes that looked like something out of a science fiction film. Great rust-red sandstone outcrops loomed over the road, twisted into arches and pillars and overhangs that no architect could have dreamed up. It was the kind of drive where you keep stopping to take photographs even though you know you’ve already taken essentially the same photograph fifteen times. Our destination was Twyfelfontein Adventure Camp, which sat only about 110 kilometres south of Palmwag — not a vast distance on paper, but the road made sure you earned every kilometre.

🏕️ Checking In — Tents, Granite and Hoping for the Best

We rolled into the camp mid-afternoon, which in that part of Namibia in December means it was still ferociously hot. Check-in was straightforward enough, and we were shown to our accommodation — a smallish permanent tent, the sort that sounds less impressive than it is. It was perfectly comfortable, with a proper bed and the basics you need. What gave it a bit of character was the fact that it backed directly onto a granite outcrop, and at the base of that outcrop sat some truly impressive-looking boulders — the kind that look as though they’ve been balanced there by a giant with a very steady hand and a mischievous sense of humour. We did, it has to be said, spend a brief moment wondering about the structural integrity of the arrangement and hoping that no fresh rockfalls would happen during our stay. They didn’t. We slept fine.

🏛️ The Rock Engravings — Namibia’s First World Heritage Site

The primary reason we’d come to Twyfelfontein was to see the famous rock engravings, and they are the reason most people make the trip out to this remote corner of north-western Namibia. My original plan had been to visit the engravings the following morning, but we’d arrived early enough in the day that there was still time for an afternoon tour. So we did a quick turnaround — changed shoes, grabbed water, the usual — and drove the ten minutes or so up the track to the park entrance.

Now, a bit of background, because this place genuinely deserves it. Twyfelfontein is an Afrikaans name meaning “uncertain spring” — a reference to the seasonal water source in the valley that made this spot habitable but was never entirely reliable. Its official name in the Damara/Nama language is ǀUi-ǁAis, which translates roughly as “jumping waterhole.” Pronouncing that properly requires the use of the distinctive click consonants that are a feature of the Khoekhoegowab language spoken by the Damara and Nama peoples — sounds that are quite unlike anything you’ll encounter in English and take a good deal of practice to produce correctly. The clicks function as consonants in the language, and there are several distinct types, each produced in a different part of the mouth.

The site itself sits in a valley flanked by the slopes of a sandstone table mountain in the Kunene Region of north-western Namibia, in an area historically known as Damaraland. The valley receives very little rainfall — this is, after all, one of the driest regions on one of the driest continents on earth — and experiences a remarkably wide range of daily temperatures, swinging dramatically between the heat of the day and the chill of the night.

What makes Twyfelfontein extraordinary is its age and its continuity of use. Archaeological evidence indicates that the site has been inhabited for at least 6,000 years. The first people to use it were hunter-gatherers, most likely ancestors of the San people, who lived across southern Africa for tens of thousands of years before the arrival of herding communities. They were followed by the Khoikhoi, pastoralist herders who moved into the region, bringing livestock and a somewhat different way of life. Both groups used Twyfelfontein not merely as a camp or a water source, but as a sacred place — somewhere to conduct shamanist rituals, to communicate with the spirit world, and to mark the landscape with meaning.

The result of those rituals, conducted over a period of roughly 2,000 years between approximately 3000 BC and 1000 AD, is one of the most significant concentrations of rock petroglyphs — that is, images carved directly into stone — anywhere on the African continent. At least 2,500 individual items have been identified, depicting an extraordinary range of animals: rhinoceros, elephant, giraffe, oryx, ostrich, flamingo, zebra, lion, and many more. Some carvings show human figures, others show animal tracks, and some appear to combine animal and human forms in ways that researchers believe are connected to shamanist trance states, in which practitioners believed they could transform into animals or travel between the human and spirit worlds. There are also a small number of rock paintings at the site, though the engravings vastly outnumber them. UNESCO recognised the significance of all this in July 2007, when Twyfelfontein was inscribed as Namibia’s first World Heritage Site.

👩‍🏫 Meeting Beatrice — Our Guide for the Afternoon

We arrived at the site about 90 minutes before closing time, which, as it turned out, was absolutely ideal. The worst of the afternoon heat had begun to ease, and the sun was dropping towards the horizon and starting to take on that deep reddish-gold colour that makes everything in the Namibian landscape look impossibly dramatic. The light on the rock faces was just right — long shadows, warm tones — and it made viewing and photographing the carvings a genuine pleasure rather than the squinting, sweat-drenched ordeal it might have been two hours earlier.

The new visitor centre at Twyfelfontein is worth a mention in its own right. It was built to be eco-friendly and has been designed to blend into the surrounding landscape — using natural materials and earth tones so that it sits in the environment rather than imposing on it. Whoever was responsible for the design and construction did a genuinely excellent job. It’s the sort of building that makes you think about how visitor infrastructure at heritage sites ought to look, and usually doesn’t.

Here we met our guide for the afternoon: a lovely lady called Beatrice. She was warm, knowledgeable, and clearly genuinely passionate about the site and its history. The walk from the visitor centre to the rocks was about three-quarters of a kilometre — not far, but the ground is uneven, and the path involves a fair number of steps cut into the hillside. Wooden walkways have been constructed to give visitors safe access to the most significant and famous rock carvings, threading between the boulders and along the rock faces in a way that protects the engravings while still allowing you to get close enough to really see them.

The carvings themselves are remarkable. There are approximately 2,000 of them, overlaid on the rock surfaces across a surprisingly compact area. You can stand in one spot and see dozens of images, layered on top of each other, some clearly older than others, the older ones more weathered and faded. Beatrice took us through the site systematically over 90 minutes, explaining the history of each panel, what scientists and researchers currently believe the carvings meant and how they were used, and how to read the images — which ones depict real animals, which ones show composite creatures, and which ones are thought to represent the visions experienced during shamanic trance. We love this stuff, genuinely. This is exactly the sort of history that doesn’t make it into the school curriculum but probably should. It was still quite hot even at that hour, and there were plenty of steps and climbs involved, so we worked up a reasonable sweat. Fair warning: this is absolutely not the place for anyone with serious mobility issues or anyone who is very unfit. You need to be able to move around on uneven ground and climb steps — but if you can manage that, it is completely worth the effort.

Right on the 90-minute mark, Beatrice delivered us back to the visitor centre just as it was preparing to close for the day. Then, with what we can only describe as a rather cheeky grin, she asked whether we might be able to drop her back at her home on our way — it was on our route, she explained. Of course we had absolutely no issue with that. It was the least we could do after she’d shared so much.

🥁 The Damara Living Museum — Culture, Clicks and a Cheeky Story

The following morning, before setting off on our planned drive of roughly 350 kilometres to Swakopmund and the Skeleton Coast, we wanted to pay a visit to the Damara Living Museum, which was conveniently located right next door to the camp. We had a quick breakfast and headed over just in time for opening.

The Damara people have lived in north-western Namibia for centuries, and their history is one of considerable hardship and resilience. The word “Damara” is actually a Nama term; the Damara people call themselves ǂNūkhoe, meaning “the black people.” Their origins are a matter of some scholarly debate — genetic and linguistic evidence suggests they are among the oldest populations in southern Africa, with connections to the San hunter-gatherers who preceded the Bantu-speaking migrations across the continent. During the nineteenth century, the Damara were subjected to severe oppression by neighbouring Nama and Herero groups, as well as later by German colonial authorities who arrived in what was then German South West Africa in the 1880s. The Damara were dispossessed of much of their land and forced into labour on colonial farms. It was a grim period. The Damara Living Museum is, in part, a response to that history — an attempt to keep the culture, skills and knowledge of the Damara people alive and pass them on to new generations, as well as share them with visitors.

We were greeted at the entrance by one of the guides, who was dressed in traditional Damara clothing — which, he cheerfully acknowledged, is basically not a lot for the men. Think minimal fabric, maximum dignity. He led us through into the main village compound, which comprised of half a dozen or so huts constructed from grasses and brushwood in the traditional manner. These are proper working structures, not stage sets — the same basic design that Damara communities have been building for generations, suited to the climate and available materials of the region.

We were taken from place to place within the compound as different traditional skills were demonstrated. The demonstrations were accompanied by commentary in the Damara language, Khoekhoegowab, which uses a series of oral clicks that appear in various positions within words and sentences. We were told that these clicks function in ways broadly equivalent to vowels in other spoken languages — they are not decorative or optional, but are essential, meaning-bearing sounds. Khoekhoegowab has five distinct click types, each produced in a different part of the mouth: dental clicks, alveolar clicks, palatal clicks, lateral clicks and alveolar-lateral clicks. Getting even one of them right as an English speaker takes considerable practice, and listening to fluent speakers use them naturally and rapidly is genuinely fascinating. It was a pleasure to hear.

Unlike the Himba village tour we had done earlier in our trip — which had an entirely different character — the Damara Living Museum had men, women and children all present and involved. The gender roles were fairly traditional: the men demonstrated skills like making fire using friction methods that would have been recognisable to their ancestors thousands of years ago, and working with traditional tools. The women focused on food preparation — demonstrating how traditional plant-based foods were processed and cooked — and on crafting skills including beadwork and the making of traditional items. It was all done with genuine warmth and without any sense of performance for performance’s sake.

We got talking at length to our guide, who told us he was in the middle of the process of getting married — and that this involved a sequence of events that, frankly, made the average English engagement look fairly straightforward. The marriage process in Damara tradition requires the groom’s entire family to travel to the home of his future bride, which in his case was a considerable distance away. When they arrive, they are not let in. The door stays closed. They wait. This can happen not once but up to three times before the bride’s family accepts them and allows the marriage to proceed — a way, one presumes, of ensuring the groom’s family is suitably committed. The funny thing, which our guide told us with complete good humour and not a trace of embarrassment, was that he already had a child with this woman. The formalities, apparently, proceed at their own pace regardless.

Also in the compound, among the children, was a very handsome little boy who had a cleft palate. He was a gorgeous kid, full of character, and the staff spoke of their hope that one day he would be able to access corrective surgery. Cleft palate affects roughly one in 700 children worldwide, but access to the surgical correction that is routine in wealthier countries remains limited in many parts of Namibia, particularly in rural areas. You hope things improve.

Just before we left, the women of the museum performed a traditional dance for us. We were the only visitors there at that point, which made it rather intimate — and, for at least one of us, a tiny bit awkward in the way that being the only audience members for a performance always is. You’re very aware of where to look and whether you’re clapping at the right moments. But it was lovely all the same.

We’d had a genuinely lovely time at the Damara Living Museum, learning about a culture that deserves to be far better known than it is. But the clock was ticking, the kilometres were waiting, and it was time to move on.

The Best Time to Visit Twelfontein

🌞 Dry Season: May to October (Peak Season)

The dry season is broadly regarded as the best time to visit Twyfelfontein. Temperatures are moderate to warm during the day, dropping sharply at night, particularly between May and August when overnight temperatures in Damaraland can fall close to or below freezing. Rainfall is almost entirely absent, roads are more passable, and wildlife concentrates around water sources, making sightings more predictable.

May to June offers ideal conditions. Daytime temperatures are comfortable, typically ranging from 22°C to 28°C, and the landscape, though arid, retains some residual greenery from the rainy season. Visitor numbers have not yet peaked, and accommodation is more readily available.

July to August marks the height of the tourist season. Conditions are clear and dry, but the intense popularity of Damaraland during this period means accommodation books out months in advance. Temperatures during the day remain warm, but early mornings and evenings can be genuinely cold. Desert-adapted wildlife — including elephant, giraffe, and lion — may be spotted in the wider Damaraland region.

September to October sees temperatures beginning to climb again, with October often reaching 35°C or above. The landscape becomes increasingly parched and golden. Crowds begin to thin after September, and wildlife activity remains strong as animals continue to seek out scarce water sources.

What to pack: Lightweight, breathable clothing for daytime warmth, plus a warm fleece or down jacket and thermal layers for cold nights (essential May–August). Sturdy closed-toe shoes or hiking boots, a wide-brimmed hat, high-factor sunscreen (SPF 50+), good-quality sunglasses, a reusable water bottle (minimum 2 litres), insect repellent, a small daypack, and a camera or binoculars for wildlife and engraving photography.

🌧️ Green Season: November to April (Wet / Low Season)

The wet season transforms Damaraland’s rust-red landscape into a startling patchwork of green. Rainfall is not constant — Namibia’s desert climate means precipitation tends to arrive in short, heavy bursts — but roads, particularly dirt tracks, can become impassable after downpours. The Ugab and Huab rivers may experience flash flooding with little warning.

November to December sees the onset of the rains. Heat builds significantly, with daytime temperatures regularly exceeding 35°C and often reaching 40°C or above. Humidity rises but remains lower than in tropical destinations. The landscape begins to bloom with ephemeral grasses and desert wildflowers, offering exceptional photographic contrast against the ancient engravings.

January to February represents the peak of the wet season. Rain, when it falls, is heavy and localised. Visitor numbers drop substantially, and many lodges offer reduced rates. The scenery is lush and dramatic, and birdwatching is at its finest, as migratory species arrive in number. However, access to Twyfelfontein itself and surrounding attractions may be disrupted.

March to April signals the gradual transition back to drier conditions. Rain becomes less frequent, temperatures begin to moderate, and road conditions improve. This shoulder period can be an excellent compromise — fewer visitors, still-green scenery, and increasingly reliable access.

What to pack: Very light, moisture-wicking clothing in breathable fabrics, a quality waterproof jacket or packable poncho, a wide-brimmed hat, high-factor sunscreen, insect repellent (mosquito protection is more important during this season), sandals and a pair of closed-toe shoes, a reusable water bottle, a small dry bag to protect electronics, and a sense of flexibility — itineraries may need to change at short notice due to weather.

is 15°C in June.

In the table below you can quickly see the average monthly weather in Twyfelfontein, the monthly temperatures or when the precipitation is the highest. Average monthly climate data is based on data from the past 30 years.

Climate in Namibia by Month

Visiting Namibia in January

This is mid-summer in Namibia. It tends to be hot and humid, with maximum temperatures hitting around 30°C to 35°C (86°F to 95°F); reaching up to 40°C (104°F) in the desert. There may be torrential downpours in the afternoon, but not every day. Mornings are usually clear, with the rain falling in the late afternoon.

Events & Festivals

Birdwatching in the Caprivi Strip (November to February): The Caprivi Strip is at its best during the summer months, when there are fantastic birdwatching opportunities, with more than 450 species

Flamingos gather (November to February): The summer months are the best time to see a flamboyance of flamingos, where they gather on lagoons in their thousands in Swakopmund.

Visiting Visiting Namibia in February

Very similar to January, with hot, humid days and the chance of the occasional downpour in the afternoons..

Events & Festivals

Birdwatching in the Caprivi Strip (November to February): The Caprivi Strip is at its best during the summer months, when there are fantastic birdwatching opportunities, with more than 450 species

Flamingos gather (November to February): The summer months are the best time to see a flamboyance of flamingos, where they gather on lagoons in their thousands in Swakopmund.

Visiting Namibia in March

Rainfall starts to decrease and temperatures lower after the rains. The nights start to get cooler again, with temperatures falling to around 15°C (59°F), although during the day this rises to around 30°C (86°F), making for pleasant conditions.

Visiting Namibia in April

The rain should have stopped by April and daytime temperatures should drop to around 25°C (77°F). Expect lows of around 13°C (55°F) at night, although it can be cooler in the desert.

Visiting Namibia in May

May is the beginning of Namibia’s winter. There is little to no rainfall during the winter and humidity is low. Wildlife will start to gather around the waterholes when rivers and other water sources dry up.

Visiting Namibia in June

The nights are getting cold and temperatures can drop to below 10°C (50°F), while in the desert areas it can get to freezing. Daytime temperatures are pleasant however, with blue skies and temperatures in the mid-20°Cs (70°Fs).

Visiting Namibia in July – August

July and August are the main winter months. Be sure to pack warm clothing because game drives in open vehicles can be chilly. The maximum temperature is around 21-25°C (70-77°F). At night it will be around 7°C (45°F), but it can drop to below freezing in the desert.

Visiting Namibia in September

September is a lovely month and considered the best time to travel to Namibia. It isn’t yet too hot, but the humidity is still low, keeping it very pleasant. It is dry and the skies are clear.

Visiting Namibia in October

During October the green vegetation is fading and the heat gradually builds up. This is a very good time for game viewing because the country is so dry. Temperatures during the day can reach 29°C (84°F) and it gets even hotter in the desert.

Visiting Namibia in November

The heat continues to rise by November and it will be very hot; although humidity is still low. On average, daytime temperatures are above 30°C (86°F). Clouds start to build in the afternoon, bringing a chance of rain.

Events & Festivals

Birdwatching in the Caprivi Strip (November to February): The Caprivi Strip is at its best during the summer months, when there are fantastic birdwatching opportunities, with more than 450 species recorded in the area..

Flamingos gather (November to February): The summer months are the best time to see a flamboyance of flamingos, where they gather on lagoons in their thousands in Swakopmund.

Visiting Namibia in December

The first rains usually arrive in December, and with it the temperature drops. The landscape changes after the first rains as everything comes to life, and the animals start to disperse as more water sources become available.

Events & Festivals

Flamingos gather (November to February): The summer months are the best time to see a flamboyance of flamingos, where they gather on lagoons in their thousands in Swakopmund.

Where to stay

Twyfelfontein Adventure Camp

We stayed at the Twyfelfontein Adventure Camp, which sits in a dramatic rocky landscape right in the heart of Damaraland. Our accommodation was a permanent tent — compact but well set up, and positioned right up against a granite outcrop that gave it a rather wild, back-of-beyond atmosphere. The camp is ideally placed for visiting the rock engravings, which are only a ten-minute drive away, and also gives easy access to the Damara Living Museum next door. It is a proper safari camp rather than a luxury resort, which suited us perfectly — this part of Namibia is genuinely remote, and that’s rather the point.

The wider Damaraland region around the camp has a lot to offer beyond Twyfelfontein itself: desert-adapted elephants roam the area, and Himba settlements are within reach if you want to explore further. For bookings, the camp can be reached via: