Kenya is a beautiful country and one of the best places in the world for wildlife safaris. The landscapes vary from wide open savannahs to desert to vast lakes to lush mountain forests. Here you will find an incredible array of wildlife.
Kenya: Samburu / Buffalo Springs Reserves
🏞️ From the Aberdares to the Equator
We’d spent the night before at the Ark, that lodge tucked away in the Aberdare Mountains, and frankly it had been cold, damp and impossibly green – more like a wet weekend in the Lake District than anything you’d picture when someone says “African safari.” From there we headed north, crossing the equator (we made the driver stop so we could have the obligatory photo with one foot in each hemisphere, as you do) and rolled into Buffalo Springs National Reserve, just outside the town of Isiolo.
Isiolo, for what it’s worth, sits at something of a crossroads both geographically and historically, a long-standing meeting point between the pastoralist communities of the north and the more settled peoples further south, and it grew up as a trading post during the colonial era. We didn’t have time to explore it properly, but you could feel that frontier-town atmosphere even just passing through.
The landscape changes completely once you’re across that line. Gone was the lush highland green, replaced by a dry, hilly, semi-arid savannah flanking the Ewaso Nyiro River – which, incidentally, means “river of brown water” in the Maa language, on account of the silty, café-au-lait colour it takes on for much of the year. The ecology here is a real contrast: a ribbon of riverine forest along the watercourse itself, all fig trees and doum palms, giving way to dry acacia scrub studded with termite mounds the moment you move away from the water. The springs that give the reserve its name are a proper scenic landmark, and they pull in a constant stream of thirsty wildlife, which made them an excellent spot for us to park up the Land Cruiser and just watch the world go by.
Buffalo Springs and its sister reserve Samburu, on the opposite bank of the river, both trace their protected status back to colonial-era game reserve designations, long before Kenyan independence in 1963. Together with the neighbouring Shaba National Reserve, they form a trio of adjoining parks, often referred to collectively as the Samburu-Buffalo Springs-Shaba ecosystem – a real mouthful, but it gives you a sense of how interconnected the wildlife corridors are up here.
🐘 Elephants Having a Lie-Down
No sooner had we entered the reserve, heading towards the Samburu Simba Lodge, than we came across a small group of elephants sheltering from the midday sun under a tree. What struck us as properly unusual was that they were lying down flat on the ground, which apparently is quite rare behaviour – most elephants, given their bulk, sleep standing up and only lie down for short stretches of deep sleep, usually under cover of darkness and only when they feel perfectly safe. To see a group doing it in broad daylight felt like a real privilege, like catching them with their guard down.
🦌 Our First Oryx
Further along the track we had our first sighting of an oryx, and what a magnificent looking creature it is. These antelope are remarkably well adapted to arid conditions and can apparently go for several weeks without access to surface water, getting by on moisture from the vegetation they graze on – a handy trick if ever there was one, and not a bad skill for a couple of Londoners to envy after a few too many pints down the pub. There are four species in the oryx genus worldwide, and the one you’ll find here, and across East Africa more generally, is the Beisa oryx. They all share those distinctive black and white facial markings, though their body colouring varies between species. The real showstopper, though, is the horns – straight, ringed, and sometimes over a metre long on both males and females, used for sparring during the mating season and, when push comes to shove, for fending off predators too. We were rather glad we were watching from the safety of the vehicle.
🦁 The Lioness and Her Cubs
After settling into our room and getting some lunch down us, we headed out on an afternoon game drive. We hadn’t gone far before we spotted a clutch of other safari vehicles stopped up ahead, which is always a giveaway that something interesting is going on. Sure enough, there was a lioness and two cubs, with the cubs busily pestering their mother whilst she patiently groomed them, much like any exasperated parent trying to get five minutes’ peace.
We sat there for a good twenty minutes watching this little family scene play out. Then, quite suddenly, the lioness got up and wandered off, leaving the cubs behind to their own devices. For the next half hour or so we followed her at a respectful distance as she made her way to a waterhole for a drink, before disappearing off into the bush. She was clearly on the hunt for her next meal, and sadly we lost her trail as she pushed deeper into the scrub.
🦓 Elephants, Zebra and a Dazzle
Buffalo Springs has a real reputation for its elephants, and it wasn’t long before we came across a proper herd – cows, bulls and calves all together. We’d happily have spent the rest of the day watching them, but they had other plans and moved off, leaving us instead with a small group of zebra to keep us entertained. We learned, much to our amusement, that the collective noun for a group of zebra is a “dazzle,” which strikes us as one of the better bits of English vocabulary going – far more evocative than “herd.”
We swung back around to where we’d seen the lioness and her cubs earlier, and found they’d returned to carry on with the kill from the previous day, which turned out to be an unfortunate oryx. The lioness had clearly already had her fill and was now letting the cubs get stuck into the remains themselves, picking at the carcass with the sort of enthusiasm only a teenager left alone with the family takeaway could muster.
🌅 Sunset Over the Springs
The light was fading fast by this point, but before heading back to the lodge for the night we stopped to watch the sun go down over Buffalo Springs – one of those proper African sunsets, all burnt orange and silhouetted acacia trees, that you see on postcards and can never quite believe you’re seeing for real.
🦅 Jackals, Vultures and an Early Start
We were up around dawn the next day, bolted down a quick breakfast, and were out on the early morning game drive before most sensible people would be considering getting out of bed. Our first port of call was the spot where we’d left the lioness and cubs feeding on the oryx the evening before. By now they’d moved on, and the carcass had been taken over by silver-backed jackals and a gathering of vultures, working through what was left with the brisk efficiency of nature’s clean-up crew.
🦒 A Tower of Giraffes and a Spot of Necking
There was no sign of the lions, so we pushed on deeper into the reserve. We hadn’t seen a single giraffe the day before, but today we came across a proper “tower” of them – another splendid collective noun, and rather a good one for a group of animals built like that. These were reticulated giraffes, sometimes called Somali giraffes, a subspecies native to Somalia that’s also widely found across northern Kenya. Their coats are really something to behold – large, polygonal, liver-coloured patches outlined by a network of bright white lines, almost like a stained-glass window, with the patches occasionally appearing deep red and extending right down the legs.
One thing that’s always struck me about giraffes is that despite those famously long necks, they only have seven neck bones – exactly the same number as you or I have. It’s just that each one of theirs is roughly the size of a dinner plate, whereas ours wouldn’t fill a teaspoon.
While we were admiring this little tower, two of the males started what’s known as “necking.” Now, before anyone gets the wrong idea, this is not two gay giraffes making out, much as the name might suggest – it’s actually a serious form of combat, where the males swing their long necks and heavy, bony heads at one another like medieval clubs. It looks almost comical from a distance, but it’s a genuinely dangerous business that can result in serious injury, or even death, so we watched on with rather more respect than our giggling at the terminology probably deserved.
As we drove away from the giraffes we spotted one of our absolute favourite animals on the whole trip – a gerenuk, also known rather charmingly as the giraffe antelope, on account of its impossibly long neck and legs that make it look like someone’s tried to cross a gazelle with, well, a giraffe.
Elephants remained a constant presence throughout, the reserve having such a healthy population that you’d genuinely have to make an effort not to bump into one across its vast expanse.
🐊 Not Just the Mammals
Buffalo Springs and Samburu aren’t only about the big game mammals, either. There are reptiles to be found, including crocodiles lurking in the river, plus a properly impressive list of birds on show – eagles and vultures wheeling overhead, alongside all manner of smaller and rather more colourful species that gave the binoculars a proper workout.
🤢 A Dicky Stomach and a Crocodile’s Tail
After about four hours of driving around Buffalo Springs we headed back to the lodge, where I picked up a dicky stomach over lunch and had to give the afternoon game drive a miss, much to my disgust. Karen, meanwhile, went out on her own and was treated to the sight of a lioness – very possibly the same one we’d seen the day before – making a run at a zebra. The chase came to nothing, and the lioness took what can only be described as a thoroughly deserved kicking from the zebra for her trouble. Couldn’t happen to a nicer predator.
Fortunately my own troubles were short-lived, and I was back out on the early morning drive the next day none the worse for wear. The undoubted highlight was stumbling across a whole pride of lions, including two cubs right by the side of the road tucking into their latest meal – a crocodile, no less. When we pulled up, one of the cubs actually had a crocodile’s tail still hanging out of its mouth, which is one of those sights you simply don’t forget. I’ll confess I’d never given much thought to the idea of lions hunting crocodiles before, but then again, crocodiles aren’t exactly known for their sprinting.
Alongside the cubs there were a couple of lionesses keeping watch, and one thoroughly handsome male lion strutting about the place as though he owned it, which, in fairness, he probably did.
About Buffalo Springs National Reserve
Samburu and Buffalo Springs Reserves sit in the rugged heart of northern Kenya where the Ewaso Nyiro River carves a vital lifeline through dry acacia scrub and dramatic rocky outcrops. This semi-arid wilderness creates a distinctive habitat unlike the lush savannahs further south giving rise to a unique collection of wildlife adapted to harsher conditions. The contrast between parched plains and the lush riverine forest fringing the water makes for a dramatic and ever-changing backdrop throughout the reserves.
These twin reserves are perhaps best known for hosting the Samburu Special Five a group of species rarely found elsewhere in Kenya including the long-necked gerenuk the striped reticulated giraffe the elegant Grevy’s zebra the towering Somali ostrich and the handsome Beisa oryx. Beyond these rarities the reserves support healthy populations of lion leopard and cheetah alongside large elephant herds that congregate along the riverbanks particularly during the dry season offering exceptional and reliable game viewing opportunities.
Beyond the wildlife Samburu and Buffalo Springs offer a deep cultural dimension through encounters with the Samburu people whose colourful dress age-old traditions and pastoral lifestyle remain closely tied to this land. With significantly fewer visitors than Kenya’s more famous southern parks these reserves deliver a wilder more intimate safari atmosphere making them an outstanding choice for travellers seeking authenticity diversity and a true sense of discovery.
Planning your visit to Samburu / Buffalo Spring National Reserve
| 📍 Location | Northern Kenya, on either side of the Ewaso Ng’iro River, roughly 350 km north of Nairobi |
| 🕖 Opening Times | Daily, 6:00 AM – 6:00 PM |
| 📞 Phone | Contact via tour operator or Samburu County Government offices |
| ✈️ Air | Daily scheduled flights from Nairobi’s Wilson Airport to airstrips inside the reserves |
| 🚗 By Road | About 5–6 hours’ drive from Nairobi via the A2 highway; 4WD recommended inside the reserve |
| ℹ️ Notes | Tickets valid 24 hours from entry. Self-driving requires a 4WD vehicle, a valid park pass, and staying on designated tracks. No fuel stations inside — carry enough fuel. |
🎟️ Entry Fees (per person, per 24 hours)
| Non-Residents (Adult) | Non-Residents (Child, 3–11) | Kenyan/EAC Residents | Vehicle Entry |
|---|---|---|---|
| USD 70–85 | USD 40–50 | Discounted local rates apply | From KES 300–400 (under 6 seats) |
The Best Time to Visit Kenya
Kenya is a year-round destination, but when you go shapes what you’ll experience. Each season offers a different rhythm of weather, wildlife and crowds, so the “best” time really depends on your priorities.
☀️ Long Dry Season (June–October)
This is widely regarded as the prime time to visit Kenya. The dry season runs from June to October, and the wildebeest migration usually reaches the Masai Mara in July or August and remains in Kenya throughout September before starting to move back to Tanzania around October. Temperatures are pleasant during this period, and dramatic river crossings can be witnessed as zebras and wildebeest cross waters where crocodiles lie in wait. June itself is a transition month, generally pleasant and sunny with less humidity and fewer mosquitoes, and by late June wildlife viewing is already excellent as vegetation thins and animals migrate towards water sources. Mornings can be crisp, especially in the highlands, so layering matters. SafariBookings + 2
What to pack: lightweight breathable clothing for warm days paired with a fleece or jumper for cool mornings and evenings, neutral-coloured safari wear, a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, sun cream, binoculars, a good camera, comfortable walking shoes, and a light rain jacket just in case.
🌴 Short Dry Spell (January–February)
There is a dry spell between the rains in January and February that is also a great time to visit. January is hot and dry, with daytime temperatures ranging from roughly 23°C to 37°C, and along the coast at beaches such as Diani, conditions are hot and humid with low rainfall. This period is the start of the short dry season, warm and sunny and excellent for safari activities, with the landscape still lush after the short rains and good value thanks to shoulder-season pricing. It’s also a strong choice for combining a safari with beach time or climbing Mount Kenya. SafariBookings + 2
What to pack: light, breezy clothing for the heat, swimwear and a sarong for the coast, strong sun protection including a hat and high-factor sun cream, insect repellent, a refillable water bottle, sandals for the beach and sturdier shoes for game drives, and a light layer for cooler highland evenings.
🌧️ Long Rains (March–May)
April is one of the wettest and rainiest months, with Nairobi and the central highlands hot by day and comfortable at night, while Mombasa stays hot both day and night; game drives can be difficult on muddy roads, though the lack of dust and lush, green landscape make it a wonderful time for photography. March brings hot, increasingly humid weather that gives way to rain and lower rates, while April offers quieter parks and camps as part of the more affordable “green season.” By May, the long rains have properly settled in, and coastal beaches lose their sunshine-paradise appeal. This is the quietest and cheapest season, ideal for travellers who don’t mind rain in exchange for solitude and lush scenery. Go2Africa + 2
What to pack: a waterproof jacket and trousers, quick-drying clothing, waterproof walking boots or shoes, a dry bag or rain cover for camera equipment, a lightweight umbrella, insect repellent, and warm layers for chilly, damp evenings in the highlands.
🍃 Short Rains (November–December)
November marks the start of the short rainy season, and although most parks and camps remain open, some camps on the Laikipia Plateau close; despite the rain, this is a good time for a less crowded safari at lower prices. December can be very hot with potential rain, but wildlife viewing remains spectacular. Showers tend to be short and concentrated in the afternoon, leaving plenty of dry, sunny hours either side, and the landscape turns a vivid green. Go2AfricaGo2Africa
What to pack: a packable rain jacket or poncny, breathable daywear, a hat and sun cream for the sunny spells, comfortable closed shoes that dry quickly, a dry bag for electronics, and a warm layer for evenings, particularly over the festive period when highland nights can turn cool.
Summary Table
The table below summarises the four seasons at a glance.
Overall Best Time to Visit
If you have to pick just one window, June to October stands out as the overall best time to visit Kenya. This dry season period coincides with low rainfall and thinner vegetation, making wildlife easier to spot, and it overlaps with the dramatic Great Migration river crossings in the Masai Mara. The trade-off is that this dry season window coincides with the high tourist season, so expect larger crowds and higher accommodation rates, particularly in popular parks. That said, Kenya rewards visitors in every season: many experienced travellers rate September particularly highly, since the weather is excellent, it is less busy than peak August, and it still offers superb wildlife viewing. If budget and solitude matter more to you than perfect dry-season conditions, the shoulder months of January–February or the rainy seasons of March–May and November–December offer a genuinely rewarding, less crowded alternative at a fraction of the cost.
Samburu Simba Lodge
One of the downsides of visiting Buffalo Springs National Reserve is that there are not many lodges places to stay inside the reserve. We were booked into the Samburu Simba Lodge.
The accommodation is made up of blocks of condominiums, which were nicely presented, but you could definitely hear your neighbours if they were a little noisy.
The grounds are lovely with some large lawn areas. Here you can relax, just be aware you may get visits from black-faced velvet monkeys and baboons. You need to make sure you keep the patio windows closed, otherwise you make come back to your room and find a monkey rummaging through your luggage. Which is what happened to us.
There is a large pool area and some large public spaces, including a bar and a restaurant – where they serve food buffet style. The restaurant is open air and there is a waterhole close by where animals will often visit – including elephants.
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