Kenya is a beautiful country and one of the best places in the world for wildlife safaris. The landscapes vary from wide open savannahs to desert to vast lakes to lush mountain forests. Here you will find an incredible array of wildlife.
Kenya: Amboseli National Park
🐘 Kenya Calling: First Stop, Amboseli
Right then, our first proper stop on this Kenya tour of ours was Amboseli National Park, tucked away down in the south of the country, more or less hugging the border with Tanzania. Now, on paper it’s only 240 km from Nairobi, which sounds like nothing, but it took us a good three hours to get there, even though by rights it should have been more like two and a half. The road was decent enough for most of the way, I’ll give it that, but we got stuck behind an endless parade of lorries, and there weren’t nearly enough spots where you could safely overtake the things. So you just sat there, third in a queue of trucks, watching the scenery crawl past. Thankfully we’d booked the whole thing through our tour company, Tanzania Roadside Expeditions, so none of this driving palaver was down to us — we just sat back and let someone else deal with the lorries, bless them.
We set off from Nairobi at around half past eight in the morning, and by lunchtime we’d rolled up at our hotel, the Amboseli Sopa Lodge, which gave us a decent window to get some food inside us and put our feet up before the afternoon’s excitement got going. We were rather hoping for a glimpse of Mount Kilimanjaro looming away in the distance — it’s not far off at all from Amboseli — but no such luck. The old mountain had wrapped itself up in cloud for the day and wasn’t showing itself to anybody, which was a shame, but there you go, that’s Africa for you.
Now, we weren’t the only ones with the bright idea of heading out on a sunset game drive — far from it. There was quite a queue of drivers all going through their checks, loading up their clients, sorting out who was going where. It had all the makings of a long, dull wait. Luckily, between a spot of people-watching — always good value, that — and a few giraffes wandering into view at just the right moment, the time went by a lot quicker than we’d any right to expect.
🦓 A Quick Spin Round Amboseli
Now, seeing as we’d only a short window before the sun went down, our drive took us through a bit of bush and out across the open savanna, with the dust kicking up behind the vehicle the whole way. The lovely thing about Amboseli, though, is that you don’t have to go trekking for miles and miles to find wildlife — it’s all rather conveniently close to hand, which suited us down to the ground after a long old drive from Nairobi.
We had a proper soft spot for the Grant’s gazelles, dainty little things bounding about all over the place, ears twitching at every little noise, never quite settling. There were dozens of them dotted about, grazing away as if we weren’t even there, and we must have stopped to admire them three or four times before our driver gently pointed out there were rather a lot more animals where we hadn’t even looked yet.
We also clocked our first gnus, or wildebeest if you want to be formal about it, which always strike us as having drawn the short straw in the looks department — that great big head on such a scrawny body, and an expression that suggests they’re permanently confused about something. And then, of course, there were the ostriches, which, let’s be honest, look like they’ve been designed by committee — all legs and neck and not much sense holding it together, and that peculiar way they have of staring at you as if you owe them money. Daft-looking birds, the lot of them, but rather wonderful with it, and a proper laugh to watch trotting about the savanna in that ungainly way of theirs.
💧 Water in the Wilderness
Now here’s a funny thing about Amboseli, and it caught us rather by surprise. You’d think, looking at all that dry savannah stretching out for miles, that water would be in short supply. But underneath it all, there’s water seeping up through the ground from somewhere, and it creates these great big patches of wetland that stick around even when everything else has gone bone dry. It’s a proper oddity, that, and apparently it’s a big part of why Amboseli ends up with such a hefty population of elephants knocking about — they know a good thing when they see it.
When we rolled up at the marshy bit ourselves, there were elephants everywhere, having a thoroughly good time of it in the water, calves included, splashing about like nobody’s business. Just off to the side of the road there was a gnu carcass, and lying right next to it was a male lion. Now, our first thought was that the poor fellow had died — he really did look in a bad way — but after a few minutes he gave a bit of a stir and we realised he’d simply nodded off after demolishing his dinner. All that water draws the birds in too, and that’s where we finally clocked our first flamingos of the whole Kenya trip.
🌄 Dawn Breaks and So Does Kilimanjaro
Right, the next morning we were up at the crack of dawn, bleary-eyed but raring to go, as we had a full day’s game drive ahead of us and you don’t want to be dawdling about when there’s wildlife to be found. Before we headed off we managed a quick bit of breakfast, nothing fancy, just enough to set us up for the day, and then wandered out onto the lawn outside the restaurant to see what the morning had in store. And blimey, what a sight greeted us. There, sitting proud against the early morning sun, was Kilimanjaro in all its glory, not a scrap of cloud anywhere near it. After missing out the day before, when the old mountain had hidden itself away behind a thick blanket of cloud, we’d more or less given up hope of seeing it at all. So you can imagine our faces when we walked out and there it was, clear as anything, glowing away in that lovely golden morning light. We just stood there for a good few minutes, cameras out, all thoughts of breakfast forgotten, taking it all in before we even thought about climbing into the vehicle.
No sooner had we trundled through the gates of Amboseli than the animals started showing up, as if they’d been tipped off we were coming. There were creatures wandering about right next to the road, not a care in the world, going about their business while we gawped out of the windows like a bunch of excited schoolkids.
First up were the antelope, and a fair few varieties of them too. The eland caught our eye straight away — proper big units, these are, the largest antelope you’ll find anywhere on the African continent, with shoulders on them like nightclub bouncers. Then there were the Grant’s gazelles, much daintier affairs, all legs and elegance, hopping about looking rather pleased with themselves. The waterbuck put in an appearance as well, lurking near a bit of scrub with that slightly shaggy, dishevelled look about them, like they’d just rolled out of bed.
And as if that wasn’t enough for our first few minutes in the park, a couple of giraffes ambled into view too, necks stretched up into the trees, looking down at us with what I can only describe as mild amusement. Not a bad welcome at all, we thought.
Now, the big draw at Amboseli, the thing everybody comes for, is the elephants — there’s a proper lot of them roaming about the place, and it didn’t take long at all before we ran smack into a whole herd, cows, bulls, calves, the full family outing. We could quite happily have parked ourselves there for the rest of the day just watching them go about their business, but elephants, as it turns out, have minds of their own and don’t much care what we’d have liked. Off they wandered, the lot of them, leaving us rather high and dry. Still, not to worry, because along came a little group of zebras to fill the gap, and they did the job nicely. Now here’s a bit of trivia for you, something we picked up along the way and rather enjoyed: the collective noun for a group of zebras is a “dazzle.” A dazzle of zebras. I ask you. Whoever came up with that one clearly had a sense of humour about them, and we thought it summed the whole thing up rather nicely, what with the stripes and the way they all bunch together looking thoroughly pleased with themselves.
Right, so after that lot we said our goodbyes to the elephants — well, they didn’t notice us going, if we’re honest, far too busy munching away — and pointed the vehicle towards the other side of the park. It’s a fair old trek across Amboseli, more than you’d think looking at the map, and along the way we trundled past the airstrip, which turns out to be a proper little landmark in its own right. Quite a few of the trucks and minibuses seem to treat it as an unofficial stopping-off point, and you can see why. There’s a bit of open space to stretch your legs, and more often than not somebody’s spotted something interesting nearby, so drivers tend to gather there comparing notes like a load of old codgers down the pub. We pulled in for a few minutes ourselves, more out of curiosity than anything, half expecting a little Cessna to come bouncing in to land, though none obliged us while we were there. Mind you, it’s the sort of spot where you could happily sit and watch the world go by for an hour, airstrip or no airstrip, watching dust devils swirl about and the odd zebra wander past in the distance, minding its own business entirely.
Now, everyone who comes out to Kenya has got the Big Five rattling round their head — lions, leopards, elephants, buffalo and rhino — and fair enough, they’re the ones that get all the glory. But we soon found out there was a lot more going on around Amboseli than just that lot, and it would be a shame to rush past it all in your hurry to tick off the famous names.
The marshes down there, along with Amboseli Lake itself, turned out to be an absolute magnet for birds, more than we’d ever bargained for. Waterfowl especially, just masses of them, paddling about and squabbling over the best spots. We stood there for a good while just watching them get on with their business, and I have to say, we got nearly as much enjoyment out of that as we did from spotting the big mammals everyone bangs on about. There’s something rather soothing about birdwatching, isn’t there, after all the excitement of lions and elephants.
So if you ever find yourself out that way, do take a bit of time over the marshes. Don’t just hare off after the Big Five and miss the rest of the show going on right under your nose.
Now, most of Amboseli is as flat as a pancake, which is rather the point if you’re after wildlife views, but there’s one spot where you actually get a proper vantage over the whole park, and that’s Signal Hill. Up we went, and that’s where we ended up taking our lunch, looking out over the whole sweep of the place — not a bad spot for a sandwich, all things considered. You could see for miles in every direction, which after all that flat scrubland made a nice change.
Anyway, while we were up there minding our own business and tucking into lunch, we suddenly found ourselves joined by a wedding party, of all things. Quite a sight, I can tell you — there we were in our khaki and dust, and along comes a group all dressed up to the nines for a wedding, right there on top of Signal Hill. We never did get the full story of who was marrying who, but it didn’t much matter. It turned the whole lunch stop into a proper occasion, rather than just us sitting about eating sandwiches and admiring the view. Made us laugh, it did, and it’s the sort of thing you just don’t expect to bump into halfway up a hill in the middle of Kenya.
After a good seven hours of bumping about Amboseli, we were more than ready to head back to the lodge for a proper sit-down and a cold drink. But, as is often the way with these things, the park had one final treat up its sleeve before letting us go — a gerenuk, just standing there as we made our way out, as if it had been waiting for us the whole time.
Now, if you’ve never seen one, a gerenuk is a funny-looking thing, and I mean that fondly. Long legs, a long neck, and these enormous eyes that make it look permanently startled. It’s quite unlike your average African antelope in that respect. What really sets it apart, though, is the way it feeds. Most four-legged herbivores keep all four feet planted on the ground like sensible creatures, but not the gerenuk. These little animals will happily stand up on their back legs, balanced like a dog begging at the table, and stretch right up into the bushes. It means they can get at leaves growing high up that almost nothing else can reach, which strikes us as rather a clever trick to have up your sleeve.
About Amboseli
Amboseli National Park sits in the heart of southern Kenya close to the Tanzanian border and covers approximately 392 square kilometres of spectacular wilderness. Its name derived from the Maasai word meaning “salty dust” perfectly captures the park’s iconic dried lake bed that shimmers under the African sun. Dominated by the magnificent backdrop of Mount Kilimanjaro — Africa’s tallest peak — Amboseli offers some of the most dramatic and photogenic landscapes on the continent making it a firm favourite amongst safari-goers and wildlife photographers from around the world.
The park is arguably best known for its extraordinary elephant population one of the most studied and observed herds in all of Africa. These gentle giants roam freely across the open plains wetlands and acacia woodlands offering remarkable close-up encounters rarely found elsewhere. Beyond elephants Amboseli is teeming with wildlife including lions cheetahs hyenas zebras wildebeest Maasai giraffes and over 600 species of birds. The park’s varied ecosystems — from swamps fed by underground streams from Kilimanjaro to arid dust plains — support this astonishing diversity of species throughout the year.
Amboseli is not only a destination for wildlife but also a gateway to rich Maasai culture and heritage. Local Maasai communities live alongside the park’s boundaries and many lodges and camps offer authentic cultural experiences that allow visitors to connect with one of Africa’s most iconic peoples. Whether you are tracking elephants at dawn watching flamingos wade through glittering wetlands or simply sitting in silence as Kilimanjaro turns golden at sunset Amboseli National Park delivers an African safari experience that is truly second to none.
Planning Your Visit to Amboseli
| 📍 Location | Amboseli County, Kajiado, Kenya (near the Tanzania border, beneath Mt. Kilimanjaro) |
|---|---|
| 🕖 Opening Times | Daily, 6:00 AM – 6:00 PM |
| 📞 Phone | +254 20 6000800 |
| 🦓 Wildlife | Elephants, lions, cheetahs, buffalo, giraffes, zebras, wildebeest, over 400 bird species |
| 🚗 By Road | Approx. 240 km / 4–5 hours from Nairobi via Namanga or Emali gate roads (4×4 recommended) |
| ✈️ By Air | Scheduled light-aircraft flights from Nairobi (Wilson Airport) to Amboseli Airstrip, approx. 45 minutes |
| ℹ️ Notes | Best Kilimanjaro views at sunrise. Park fees payable via Safaricom M-PESA or KWS e-citizen portal. 4×4 vehicles strongly advised in wet season. |
🎟️ Entry Fees
| Foreign Non-Residents | Foreign Residents | Citizens (Kenya/East Africa) |
|---|---|---|
| $60 (adult) / $35 (child) | KSh 1,000 (adult) / KSh 500 (child) | KSh 400 (adult) / KSh 200 (child) |
Getting There
Amboseli is most commonly reached by road from Nairobi, a drive of roughly four to five hours via Namanga or through Emali on the Mombasa Road, with the final stretch often rough and best tackled in a 4×4. Alternatively, scheduled light-aircraft flights connect Nairobi’s Wilson Airport directly to the Amboseli Airstrip within the park in about 45 minutes, a popular option for those short on time or coming from coastal safari circuits like the Maasai Mara or Tsavo.
The Best Time to Visit Kenya
Kenya is a year-round destination, but when you go shapes what you’ll experience. Each season offers a different rhythm of weather, wildlife and crowds, so the “best” time really depends on your priorities.
☀️ Long Dry Season (June–October)
This is widely regarded as the prime time to visit Kenya. The dry season runs from June to October, and the wildebeest migration usually reaches the Masai Mara in July or August and remains in Kenya throughout September before starting to move back to Tanzania around October. Temperatures are pleasant during this period, and dramatic river crossings can be witnessed as zebras and wildebeest cross waters where crocodiles lie in wait. June itself is a transition month, generally pleasant and sunny with less humidity and fewer mosquitoes, and by late June wildlife viewing is already excellent as vegetation thins and animals migrate towards water sources. Mornings can be crisp, especially in the highlands, so layering matters. SafariBookings + 2
What to pack: lightweight breathable clothing for warm days paired with a fleece or jumper for cool mornings and evenings, neutral-coloured safari wear, a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, sun cream, binoculars, a good camera, comfortable walking shoes, and a light rain jacket just in case.
🌴 Short Dry Spell (January–February)
There is a dry spell between the rains in January and February that is also a great time to visit. January is hot and dry, with daytime temperatures ranging from roughly 23°C to 37°C, and along the coast at beaches such as Diani, conditions are hot and humid with low rainfall. This period is the start of the short dry season, warm and sunny and excellent for safari activities, with the landscape still lush after the short rains and good value thanks to shoulder-season pricing. It’s also a strong choice for combining a safari with beach time or climbing Mount Kenya. SafariBookings + 2
What to pack: light, breezy clothing for the heat, swimwear and a sarong for the coast, strong sun protection including a hat and high-factor sun cream, insect repellent, a refillable water bottle, sandals for the beach and sturdier shoes for game drives, and a light layer for cooler highland evenings.
🌧️ Long Rains (March–May)
April is one of the wettest and rainiest months, with Nairobi and the central highlands hot by day and comfortable at night, while Mombasa stays hot both day and night; game drives can be difficult on muddy roads, though the lack of dust and lush, green landscape make it a wonderful time for photography. March brings hot, increasingly humid weather that gives way to rain and lower rates, while April offers quieter parks and camps as part of the more affordable “green season.” By May, the long rains have properly settled in, and coastal beaches lose their sunshine-paradise appeal. This is the quietest and cheapest season, ideal for travellers who don’t mind rain in exchange for solitude and lush scenery. Go2Africa + 2
What to pack: a waterproof jacket and trousers, quick-drying clothing, waterproof walking boots or shoes, a dry bag or rain cover for camera equipment, a lightweight umbrella, insect repellent, and warm layers for chilly, damp evenings in the highlands.
🍃 Short Rains (November–December)
November marks the start of the short rainy season, and although most parks and camps remain open, some camps on the Laikipia Plateau close; despite the rain, this is a good time for a less crowded safari at lower prices. December can be very hot with potential rain, but wildlife viewing remains spectacular. Showers tend to be short and concentrated in the afternoon, leaving plenty of dry, sunny hours either side, and the landscape turns a vivid green. Go2AfricaGo2Africa
What to pack: a packable rain jacket or poncny, breathable daywear, a hat and sun cream for the sunny spells, comfortable closed shoes that dry quickly, a dry bag for electronics, and a warm layer for evenings, particularly over the festive period when highland nights can turn cool.
Summary Table
The table below summarises the four seasons at a glance.
Overall Best Time to Visit
If you have to pick just one window, June to October stands out as the overall best time to visit Kenya. This dry season period coincides with low rainfall and thinner vegetation, making wildlife easier to spot, and it overlaps with the dramatic Great Migration river crossings in the Masai Mara. The trade-off is that this dry season window coincides with the high tourist season, so expect larger crowds and higher accommodation rates, particularly in popular parks. That said, Kenya rewards visitors in every season: many experienced travellers rate September particularly highly, since the weather is excellent, it is less busy than peak August, and it still offers superb wildlife viewing. If budget and solitude matter more to you than perfect dry-season conditions, the shoulder months of January–February or the rainy seasons of March–May and November–December offer a genuinely rewarding, less crowded alternative at a fraction of the cost.
Amboseli Sopa Lodge
There are many lodges and places to stay around Amboseli. We were booked into the Sopa Lodge, which is a hotel group with several lodges around Kenya. The lodge is located about 20km from the gates of Amboseli and has great views of Kilimanjaro (clouds permitting)
The accommodation was cute cottages (or chalets) with thatched roofs. Inside the rooms were quite spacious with some nice decorative features.
The grounds are lovely with some large lawn areas. Here you can relax, just be aware you may get visits from black-faced velvet monkeys and baboons. There is a large pool area and some large public spaces, including a bar and a restaurant – where they serve food buffet style.
More to Explore
