Ghana: Kumasi – Adinka printing & kente weaving

January 25, 2025
Ghana
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It was an early start from Mole National Park. We were heading south towards Kumasi, a major city and the capital of the Ashanti region. The distance was 475km, along some questionable roads, so it was going to take most of the day to get there.

Shortly before reaching Kumasi, we headed towards a village called Adanwomase, which is famous for kente weaving, an intricate handwoven cloth deeply rooted in Ghanaian culture.

Our first stop was a small-scale business that makes dyes and uses those to make block-printed products, such as t-shirts and hangings. Before showing us the printing side of things we were taken into the courtyard of the family’s home complex, where they make the dyes. It was a simple process of extracting the colour from the bark of the badie tree, imported from Morocco, by pounding it into a powder form and then using this to make the dye by mixing it with water and boiling it down. It was hard and hot work. The final dye product is called adinka aduro

Next, we were introduced to the block printing process, which is known as ‘Adinka’.

Adinkra block printing is a traditional Ghanaian textile art form used to decorate cloth with symbolic motifs. These motifs, known as Adinkra symbols, carry deep cultural, spiritual, and philosophical meanings, often representing proverbs, historical events, human behaviour, or universal truths. The symbols are hand-carved into calabash (gourd), although modern versions may use wood or foam.

We were offered to choose some stamps and do some stamping onto a cotton strip of material and take this away as a souvenir. Karen, who loves this stuff jumped at the opportunity.

After doing the adinkra stamping, we drove to another part of the village where there is a community programme to promote the culture of kente weaving.

Kente weaving is a traditional craft originating from the Ashanti and Ewe peoples of Ghana, West Africa. This intricate art form involves creating vibrant, colourful cloths using a handloom. Each kente cloth is made up of individual strips, which are woven in a variety of patterns and then sewn together. The patterns often hold deep symbolic meanings, reflecting proverbs, historical events, or personal values. Traditionally, kente cloth was reserved for royalty and special occasions, embodying cultural pride and heritage. The weaving process is labour-intensive, requiring great skill and patience to align the threads and achieve the desired designs.

The materials used in kente weaving have evolved, from locally sourced cotton and raffia fibres to modern silk and synthetic threads. Despite these changes, the essence of kente remains tied to its cultural significance. Each colour and pattern has a specific meaning—for example, gold symbolises wealth and royalty, while blue represents harmony and peace. Today, kente is widely recognised as a global symbol of African identity and pride, often worn at ceremonies, graduations, and cultural events.

At the community centre, we were introduced to the materials and the weaving process. The weavers are from both sexes – the people we saw demonstrating the weaving at the centre were all young men. It was fascinating to see – and we loved the final products!

As well as promoting the kente weaving the centre also introduces visitors to the importance of cocoa production in Ghana. Cocoa production is a cornerstone of the country’s economy and a key contributor to global cocoa supply. Ghana is the second-largest producer of cocoa in the world, after Côte d’Ivoire, and its cocoa is renowned for its high quality. We’d seen how cocoa production works, from taking the seeds and turning them into a powdered form – the good thing was we got to try some locally made chocolate.

Planning your visit

Kumasi, often referred to as the “Garden City of West Africa,” is a vibrant cultural and economic hub located in the Ashanti Region of Ghana. Known for its rich history and traditions, Kumasi serves as the seat of the Ashanti Kingdom, with the revered Manhyia Palace at its heart. The city is famous for its bustling Kejetia Market, one of the largest open-air markets in West Africa, and its role in producing exquisite Kente cloth, a symbol of African heritage and identity.

Getting to Kumasi

1. By Air

Kumasi Airport (KMS): Domestic flights are available to Kumasi from Accra (Kotoka International Airport) and Tamale. Airlines like Africa World Airlines and PassionAir offer regular flights. The flight duration from Accra is approximately 40 minutes.

2. By Road

From Accra:
- Driving: The distance between Accra and Kumasi is about 250 km (155 miles), and the drive typically takes around 4-5 hours via the N6 highway.
- Buses: Reliable bus services like VIP, VVIP, and STC operate daily between Accra and Kumasi. These buses are comfortable and affordable, with the journey taking about 5-6 hours.
From Tamale:
- The journey by road is approximately 380 km (236 miles) and takes around 7-8 hours. Buses and minibusses (trotros) are available.
From Cape Coast or Takoradi:
- The drive from Cape Coast takes approximately 4-5 hours. Bus services are also available for this route.

3. By Train

Ghana Railway lines connecting Kumasi and Accra are currently under rehabilitation, so rail options may be limited or unavailable. Check the latest updates for train services.

4. Trotros (Shared Minibuses)

For budget travelers, trotros offer a cheap way to get to Kumasi from various cities. However, they can be crowded and less comfortable compared to buses.

5. Car Rentals

Renting a private car or hiring a taxi for the journey is also an option. Ensure to agree on a price beforehand if hiring a driver.

Let me know if you need more specific recommendations!

The best time to visit

Weather Considerations

Kumasi has a tropical climate with two primary seasons:

Dry Season (November to March):
- Best time to visit, as rainfall is minimal, and the weather is sunny and pleasant.
- Temperatures range from 24°C to 34°C (75°F to 93°F).
- Ideal for exploring outdoor attractions like the Manhyia Palace, Kumasi Zoo, or the Kejetia Market.
Rainy Season (April to October):
- Expect heavy rains, especially from May to June and September to October.
- Travel might be hindered by muddy roads and disruptions, but the city and its lush surroundings are incredibly green and vibrant.

Cultural Events and Festivals

If you’re interested in experiencing Kumasi’s rich culture:

Akwasidae Festival (held every six weeks): A traditional Ashanti festival celebrated at the Manhyia Palace. This is a great opportunity to witness Ashanti customs, music, and the king’s durbar.
Easter Season: Often marked by vibrant celebrations and events.
Christmas (December): A festive time when Kumasi is lively with events, shopping, and cultural performances.

Best Months

December to March: Combines the dry season with festive events.
July to September: Suitable if you enjoy lush greenery and don’t mind occasional rain.

Ultimately, November to March offers the most reliable weather for sightseeing and activities, but your choice might vary based on your interests in cultural events or experiencing Kumasi’s natural beauty during the rainy season.

Where to stay in Kumasi

Four Villages Inn

Four Villages Inn is a family-run bed and breakfast located in Daban, Kumasi, approximately a 10-minute drive from the city center. The inn features four spacious, air-conditioned rooms, each uniquely decorated with crafts reflecting the cultural traditions of local villages. Amenities include private bathrooms with full-size bathtubs, multi-channel TVs, and fully stocked mini-bars. Guests can enjoy complimentary full breakfasts featuring the inn’s renowned beef and pork sausages, fresh fruit, and freshly ground gourmet coffee. Additional services include free wireless internet, personal tour arrangements, and gourmet meals prepared upon request by a Canadian-trained professional chef.