Hatshepsut’s Temple at Deir el-Bahari is a large and beautiful ancient building built into the cliffs near Luxor, created over 3,000 years ago to honour Queen Hatshepsut, one of Egypt’s few female pharaohs, and today it is a popular place to visit where people can walk through grand halls, see amazing stone carvings, and learn about Egypt’s rich history.
Egypt: Luxor – Luxor Temple
A Visit to Luxor Temple: Layers of Time in Stone
In ancient times, it was customary for people to walk the long and symbolic route from the Karnak Temple to the Luxor Temple, a ceremonial avenue flanked by sphinxes that stretched over two kilometres. This sacred path, known as the Avenue of Sphinxes, represented a spiritual journey connecting two of the most significant temples in Thebes. In the present day, however, such a route is less practical for visitors with schedules to keep. We had a firm deadline to return to the Beau Rivage Hotel, so our journey from Karnak to Luxor Temple was not taken on foot but rather in the relative comfort of a car — efficient, if a touch unceremonious.
Overview of the Luxor Temple
The Luxor Temple stands today as one of the best-preserved monuments of Ancient Egypt. It was primarily built during the reigns of Pharaoh Amenhotep III (circa 1390–1352 BCE) and the later additions of Ramesses II (1279–1213 BCE). Unlike other Egyptian temples that focused on worship of deities or the commemoration of specific rulers, Luxor Temple served a distinctive ceremonial purpose. It was central to the Opet Festival, an important event in the Theban calendar that celebrated the annual flooding of the Nile — a life-giving natural cycle — and the divine renewal of the pharaoh’s legitimacy.
Throughout its long history, the temple complex was not left untouched. Successive rulers, including Tutankhamun, Horemheb, and even Alexander the Great, left their mark on the structure. Alexander, for example, claimed to have restored parts of the temple during his rule. As a result, the Luxor Temple today is not a static monument but a layered narrative of many generations of rulers and their evolving religious priorities.
The Grand Entrance: Ramesses II’s First Pylon
Upon arrival, the first sight to meet the eye is the monumental first pylon built by Ramesses II. This grand entrance towers at around 24 metres high and spans 65 metres in width. It is covered in reliefs celebrating the military victories of Ramesses, particularly his renowned campaign at the Battle of Kadesh. The pylon originally stood flanked by a pair of massive granite obelisks — one of which remains in place. Its twin now stands thousands of miles away, in the Place de la Concorde in Paris. At the entrance stand colossal seated statues of Ramesses II himself, symbolic of his power and his semi-divine status.
This pylon marks the shift from the mundane world to the sacred spaces within. Its scale and detail make it not just an architectural feature but a statement of political and religious authority.
Courtyard of Ramesses II and the Mosque of Abu Haggag
Passing through the pylon, we entered the first courtyard — another construction of Ramesses II. It is enclosed by a colonnade of large papyrus-style columns, and the courtyard features numerous statues of the pharaoh. Several remain intact, their features weathered but still expressive.
An unexpected sight within the courtyard is the Mosque of Abu Haggag. Built in the 12th century during the Fatimid period, this mosque occupies a corner of the ancient temple, perched atop earlier Pharaonic stonework. It is dedicated to the Sufi saint Abu Haggag, whose tomb lies within. Uniquely, the mosque is still in active use today. The structure represents a rare and visible blend of Islamic and Ancient Egyptian religious architecture, co-existing on the same site and offering a tangible example of continuity across Egypt’s long and varied religious history.
Courtyard of Colonnade of Amenhotep III
Beyond the courtyard lies the Colonnade of Amenhotep III — a long, elegant hall lined with fourteen enormous columns bundled in the form of papyrus stalks. These were partially decorated during the short reign of Tutankhamun and completed under Horemheb. Above, detailed carvings show the pharaoh engaging with the gods. The columns themselves, though silent, speak volumes about the architectural mastery and religious symbolism of the time.
Amenhotep III’s Courtyard and the Opet Festival
This colonnade leads directly into another open space: the Courtyard of Amenhotep III. Though the columns here are slightly smaller than those of the colonnade, they maintain the same papyrus motif and display the same degree of precision. The surrounding walls contain carvings related to the Opet Festival, including processions and divine unions, all depicting the religious rituals that reinforced the pharaoh’s spiritual authority. This courtyard likely served as a space for gathering during these celebrations.
Hypostyle Hall and the Sacred Inner Chambers
Further into the complex lies the Hypostyle Hall, a dense grid of columns that creates the impression of walking through a forest of stone. These columns symbolise a marsh of papyrus — a visual reference to the primeval waters from which creation emerged in Egyptian mythology. Reliefs on the walls depict the pharaoh’s interactions with the gods, further affirming his divine status.
Beyond the hall are the inner sanctuaries, the most sacred part of the temple. These rooms were dedicated to the Theban Triad: Amun, Mut, and Khonsu. The sanctuaries were used for private rituals, hidden from public view. Some of the decorative elements were defaced or altered by Coptic Christians who used the site as a church during later periods. Despite this, several ceilings in these chambers have survived in remarkable condition, complete with original painted detail that hints at the temple’s once-vibrant appearance.
The Birth Room of Amenhotep III
Among the inner chambers is a particularly noteworthy space: the Birth Room of Amenhotep III. Here, a series of carvings depict the mythological birth of the pharaoh as the son of the god Amun. These reliefs were intended to legitimise Amenhotep’s rule by suggesting his divine origin. In a society where kingship was considered a divine institution, such depictions were not mere decoration — they were political statements encoded in stone.
Final Reflections
The Luxor Temple is more than just an archaeological site; it is a record of overlapping religious, political, and cultural histories. Each ruler who contributed to the temple’s construction did so with the intent of reinforcing their own authority and divine connection. From Ramesses II’s massive statues to the delicate carvings of the Opet Festival and the enduring presence of the Abu Haggag Mosque, the temple presents a layered story of Egypt’s evolving identity.
Though our visit was necessarily brief due to travel constraints, it left a strong impression. The journey from Karnak to Luxor may no longer be made on foot, but the spiritual and historical connection between the two sites endures, carved into the very stones that have stood for thousands of years.
Planning your visit
🕒 Opening Times
Luxor Temple is usually open daily from 6am to 9pm. It’s worth going early or later in the day to avoid the crowds from large tour groups.
🎟️ Tickets & Entry Fees
Tickets can be bought at the entrance. As of now:
Adults (foreign visitors): Around £8–10
Children/Students (with valid ID): Often half price
Bring cash in Egyptian pounds as card payments aren’t always accepted.
📍 Location
Luxor Temple is located in central Luxor, right on the east bank of the Nile. It’s easy to reach on foot if you’re staying in the city.
🚗 Getting There
By foot: 5–20 mins walk from most central hotels
By car or taxi: Easily accessible by local taxi or private driver
By tour group: Often included in half-day tours of Luxor
⏳ Time Needed
Allow 1 to 1.5 hours for a relaxed visit, though history enthusiasts might want longer.
📷 Photography
Photos allowed (no flash inside dark areas)
Tripods may require a permit or a small fee
👟 What to Wear
Comfortable shoes – the ground is uneven in places
Light, modest clothing – respectful attire is appreciated, and temple stones get hot
🕌 Respect the Active Mosque
The Mosque of Abu Haggag, built into the temple, is still in use. Please be respectful around prayer times.
📚 Guides & Info
Local guides are available at the entrance (expect to negotiate the fee)
Audio guides or apps can be handy if you prefer to explore on your own
🍶 Bring With You
Water bottle
Sunscreen and a hat
Camera or phone with extra storage
The best time to visit Luxor
🌸 Spring (March to May)
✅ Best time to visit
🌞 Weather: Warm and pleasant, not too hot
👥 Crowds: Moderate – not as busy as peak season
🎒 Why go: Great for sightseeing and walking around tombs
🧴 Tip: Bring sunscreen and water
☀️ Summer (June to August)
❌ Not recommended
🔥 Weather: Extremely hot (often over 40°C)
👤 Crowds: Fewer tourists, but heat can be dangerous
🧢 Why avoid: Hard to enjoy the tombs and sites in extreme heat
💧 Tip: Only go if you can handle the heat and stay hydrated
🍂 Autumn (September to November)
✅ Great time to visit
🌤️ Weather: Cooling down from summer, very pleasant
👟 Why go: Ideal for exploring sites comfortably
📸 Tip: Great light for photography
❄️ Winter (December to February)
✔️ Good time to visit
🌬️ Weather: Mild, sometimes chilly mornings/evenings
🧳 Crowds: Peak tourist season – can be busy
🏛️ Why go: Comfortable for long visits and tours
🧥 Tip: Bring a light jacket
🏆 Overall Best Time
Spring (March–May) and Autumn (September–November)
✅ Comfortable weather
✅ Manageable crowds
✅ Best for walking, sightseeing, and photos
Where to stay in Luxor
1. Mid Range: New Memnon Hotel
The New Memnon Hotel in Luxor is a small, friendly hotel located on the west bank of the Nile, close to many famous ancient sites like the Valley of the Kings. It offers simple, clean rooms with views of the surrounding desert and farmland. The hotel has a relaxed atmosphere and is known for its helpful staff, who can assist with organising tours and transport. Guests can enjoy home-cooked meals on the rooftop terrace, which provides a peaceful place to unwind after a day of exploring. It’s a good choice for travellers looking for a quiet, comfortable stay near Luxor’s main attractions.
2. Luxury – Jolie Ville Hotel & Spa Kings Island Luxor
Jolie Ville Hotel & Spa Kings Island Luxor is a peaceful resort set on a private island in the Nile River, just outside the city of Luxor. Surrounded by beautiful gardens and palm trees, the hotel offers a quiet and relaxing atmosphere away from the busy town. It has comfortable rooms, several swimming pools, and a variety of restaurants serving both local and international food. Guests can enjoy views of the river, take a walk by the water, or unwind at the on-site spa. It’s a good base for exploring Luxor’s famous ancient sites while enjoying comfort and calm in a natural setting.
3. Nefertiti Hotel Luxor
The Nefertiti Hotel in Luxor is a small, friendly place located near the Nile and close to many of the city’s main attractions. It offers simple but clean rooms at affordable prices, making it a popular choice for travellers on a budget. The staff are known for being welcoming and helpful, often going out of their way to make guests feel at home. On the rooftop, there’s a terrace restaurant with lovely views over Luxor Temple and the Nile, perfect for relaxing after a day of sightseeing. The hotel also helps arrange local tours, which can be handy for visiting places like the Valley of the Kings or Karnak Temple.
More to Explore
