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Egypt: Luxor – Hatshepsut’s Temple at Deir el-Bahari

Hatshepsut: Egypt’s Unconventional Pharaoh

Hatshepsut remains one of ancient Egypt’s most remarkable rulers, not only because she was a woman in a position of power traditionally held by men, but also because she governed successfully during a time of stability and growth. Her reign, which took place during the 18th Dynasty, lasted from around 1479 to 1458 BCE.

She was the daughter of Thutmose I and Queen Ahmose, and later became the wife of her half-brother, Thutmose II. When Thutmose II died, his son by another wife—Thutmose III—was still a child, too young to rule independently. As was customary in such situations, Hatshepsut initially acted as regent. However, she soon made the highly unusual decision to take the throne herself. Over time, she began to adopt the full regalia and formal titles of a pharaoh, even going so far as to be depicted in the traditional male image—complete with the false beard, broad kilt, and headcloth associated with kingship.

This move was not just symbolic. It was a clear political strategy, designed to cement her authority and avoid any ambiguity about who held power. Egypt, after all, was not accustomed to female rulers, and Hatshepsut was aware that perception mattered. Her decision proved effective; she ruled for over two decades and left behind a legacy that still endures in stone.

A Period of Growth and Monumental Building

Hatshepsut’s reign was distinguished by a strong emphasis on architecture and economic expansion. Unlike many other pharaohs whose records are filled with tales of conquest, Hatshepsut focused largely on internal development. She commissioned a number of ambitious building projects across Egypt, many of which still survive. The most famous of these is her mortuary temple at Deir el-Bahari, located on the west bank of the Nile opposite Luxor.

This temple is widely regarded as one of the finest architectural achievements of ancient Egypt. It was designed by Senenmut, her trusted advisor and chief architect. What makes the structure particularly impressive is the way it was designed to blend with the natural limestone cliffs that rise behind it. The result is a harmonious balance between human construction and the surrounding landscape—a design approach that was relatively rare for its time.

In addition to building works, Hatshepsut also revitalised Egypt’s trade networks. One of the best-documented achievements of her reign was the expedition to the land of Punt—believed to be located in the Horn of Africa or near the Red Sea. This voyage brought back incense, myrrh trees, gold, ivory, and exotic animals, which were displayed in Egypt and used in religious rituals. The success of this expedition is celebrated in detailed reliefs carved into the walls of her temple.

Visiting the Temple at Deir el-Bahari

We approached the site from the visitor entrance by way of an electric cart, which is provided for convenience, especially in the heat. The temple appears gradually as you move closer, and even from a distance, it strikes an imposing figure against the cliff face.

The structure is expansive—273 metres long and 105 metres wide, with a height of approximately 30 metres. Its most distinctive feature is a broad central ramp that connects three ascending terraces. Each terrace is supported by colonnades with square pillars, many of which are still decorated with detailed relief carvings depicting scenes from Hatshepsut’s life and rule.

The quality and scale of the decoration are impressive. Some statues remain partially intact, while others have suffered damage over time. The artistry in the remaining reliefs shows careful attention to detail, with images of foreign envoys, goods from Punt, and offerings to the gods.

The temple’s resemblance to the earlier Mortuary Temple of Mentuhotep II, located nearby, is noticeable, though Hatshepsut’s version is clearly more ambitious in both scale and refinement. The integration with the natural rock face behind it creates a seamless and dramatic backdrop that adds to its grandeur.

Damage and Historical Erasure

Despite its current state, the temple has not survived unscathed. In the years following Hatshepsut’s death, much of her legacy was deliberately targeted. Her successor, Thutmose III, who had grown into adulthood and eventually ruled in his own right, appears to have taken deliberate steps to erase her memory. Statues were smashed, inscriptions were chiseled out, and her image was defaced.

This act of damnatio memoriae—the attempt to remove someone from historical record—was common in ancient times when political motives called for it. Whether Thutmose III acted out of personal resentment, political pressure, or religious convention is uncertain. Regardless of the reason, the damage is visible today. In several places throughout the temple, you can see faint outlines of where her name or likeness once was.

Final Thoughts

Hatshepsut’s temple is a compelling place to visit. While it does not carry the mystique of the pyramids or the fame of Tutankhamun’s tomb, it offers a quieter, more measured insight into the complexities of ancient Egypt—its politics, religion, art, and architecture. For anyone interested in the history of powerful figures who broke with convention, Hatshepsut’s story stands out. The temple itself is not just a monument to her rule but also a lasting symbol of her determination to be remembered—not as a queen or a regent, but as pharaoh.

Planning your visit

🏛 What is It?

Hatshepsut’s Temple is a beautiful, ancient building in Luxor, Egypt. It was built for Queen Hatshepsut, one of the few female pharaohs. The temple is famous for its grand design and stunning location near cliffs.


📍 Where is It?

Deir el-Bahari, on the west bank of the Nile in Luxor
You can reach it by car, taxi, or part of a guided tour.


⏰ Opening Hours

  • Usually open 7 days a week

  • From around 6:00 am to 5:00 pm
    (Check locally for exact times)


💰 Tickets

  • Buy tickets at the entrance or via a local tour

  • Prices vary for adults, children, and students

  • You may need to pay extra for taking photos with a camera


🚗 Getting There

  • Taxi: Easy and direct

  • Tour group: Many include this temple

  • Bike or car hire: For flexible travel


🧥 What to Bring

  • Comfortable walking shoes 👟

  • Hat or scarf for shade 🧢

  • Water bottle 🧴

  • Camera 📷

  • Local cash 💵


🛑 Rules to Know

  • Do not touch the walls or carvings

  • Photography may be limited

  • Be respectful – it’s a sacred place

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The best time to visit Luxor

🌸 Spring (March to May)

Best time to visit

  • 🌞 Weather: Warm and pleasant, not too hot

  • 👥 Crowds: Moderate – not as busy as peak season

  • 🎒 Why go: Great for sightseeing and walking around tombs

  • 🧴 Tip: Bring sunscreen and water


☀️ Summer (June to August)

Not recommended

  • 🔥 Weather: Extremely hot (often over 40°C)

  • 👤 Crowds: Fewer tourists, but heat can be dangerous

  • 🧢 Why avoid: Hard to enjoy the tombs and sites in extreme heat

  • 💧 Tip: Only go if you can handle the heat and stay hydrated


🍂 Autumn (September to November)

Great time to visit

  • 🌤️ Weather: Cooling down from summer, very pleasant

  • 👟 Why go: Ideal for exploring sites comfortably

  • 📸 Tip: Great light for photography


❄️ Winter (December to February)

✔️ Good time to visit

  • 🌬️ Weather: Mild, sometimes chilly mornings/evenings

  • 🧳 Crowds: Peak tourist season – can be busy

  • 🏛️ Why go: Comfortable for long visits and tours

  • 🧥 Tip: Bring a light jacket


🏆 Overall Best Time

Spring (March–May) and Autumn (September–November)
✅ Comfortable weather
✅ Manageable crowds
✅ Best for walking, sightseeing, and photos

Where to stay in Luxor

1.  Mid Range: New Memnon Hotel

The New Memnon Hotel in Luxor is a small, friendly hotel located on the west bank of the Nile, close to many famous ancient sites like the Valley of the Kings. It offers simple, clean rooms with views of the surrounding desert and farmland. The hotel has a relaxed atmosphere and is known for its helpful staff, who can assist with organising tours and transport. Guests can enjoy home-cooked meals on the rooftop terrace, which provides a peaceful place to unwind after a day of exploring. It’s a good choice for travellers looking for a quiet, comfortable stay near Luxor’s main attractions.

2. Luxury – Jolie Ville Hotel & Spa Kings Island Luxor

Jolie Ville Hotel & Spa Kings Island Luxor is a peaceful resort set on a private island in the Nile River, just outside the city of Luxor. Surrounded by beautiful gardens and palm trees, the hotel offers a quiet and relaxing atmosphere away from the busy town. It has comfortable rooms, several swimming pools, and a variety of restaurants serving both local and international food. Guests can enjoy views of the river, take a walk by the water, or unwind at the on-site spa. It’s a good base for exploring Luxor’s famous ancient sites while enjoying comfort and calm in a natural setting.

3. Nefertiti Hotel Luxor

The Nefertiti Hotel in Luxor is a small, friendly place located near the Nile and close to many of the city’s main attractions. It offers simple but clean rooms at affordable prices, making it a popular choice for travellers on a budget. The staff are known for being welcoming and helpful, often going out of their way to make guests feel at home. On the rooftop, there’s a terrace restaurant with lovely views over Luxor Temple and the Nile, perfect for relaxing after a day of sightseeing. The hotel also helps arrange local tours, which can be handy for visiting places like the Valley of the Kings or Karnak Temple.

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