Nestled along the tranquil banks of the Nile in southern Egypt, Aswan captivates visitors with its rich tapestry of ancient history, vibrant Nubian culture, and awe-inspiring landscapes, where sun-drenched temples, such as Philae and Abu Simbel, stand as enduring testaments to the grandeur of past civilisations, while the bustling souks, serene felucca rides, and the monumental Aswan High Dam together weave a compelling narrative of timeless beauty and modern ingenuity.
Egypt: Alexandria – “Pearl of the Mediterranean Coast”
Contents
1. About Alexandria
2. Things to do
– Visit the Qaitbay Citadel
– Explore the Catacombs
– Check out the Library of Alexandria
– Wander around the Temple of Serapis
– Experience the calm beauty of the Abu al-Abbas al-Mursi Mosque
– Discover the history of Kom El Dikka
3. Getting around
4. Vegan dining options
5. Best time to visit
6. Where to stay
About Alexandria
Alexandria, Egypt’s second-largest city and a key Mediterranean port, holds a unique position in both ancient and modern history. Founded in 331 BCE by Alexander the Great, the city quickly rose to prominence as a centre of learning, culture, and commerce during the Hellenistic period. It was home to the legendary Library of Alexandria, considered one of the greatest repositories of knowledge in the ancient world, and the Pharos Lighthouse, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Under the rule of the Ptolemies, a Greek dynasty that succeeded Alexander, Alexandria became a melting pot of Greek, Egyptian, Jewish, and later Roman influences, giving it a cosmopolitan character that shaped its development for centuries. The city’s strategic location at the crossroads of Europe, Asia, and Africa made it a vibrant hub for trade and intellectual exchange throughout antiquity.
Culturally, Alexandria has always been a city of diversity and innovation. Its early population included people of various backgrounds, creating a unique blend of languages, traditions, and beliefs. This pluralism is evident in its architectural styles, from Greco-Roman theatres and catacombs to Islamic mosques and Coptic churches. During the Roman and Byzantine periods, the city maintained its status as a scholarly and religious centre, producing important philosophical and theological works. Later, under Arab rule beginning in the 7th century, Alexandria gradually shifted in character, integrating Islamic culture while retaining elements of its earlier heritage. Today, remnants of its layered past can still be seen in landmarks like the Roman Amphitheatre, the Qaitbay Citadel—built on the site of the ancient lighthouse—and the Catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa, which reflect a fusion of Egyptian, Greek, and Roman artistic traditions.
In modern times, Alexandria remains a vital part of Egypt’s identity and economy, with its port playing a central role in trade and industry. The city has also experienced a cultural revival, with institutions like the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, a modern tribute to the ancient library, fostering education, science, and the arts. Its Mediterranean climate and scenic corniche attract both domestic and international tourists, while its literary and cinematic portrayals continue to shape perceptions of its historic grandeur. Despite periods of decline and political turmoil, Alexandria endures as a symbol of cross-cultural interaction and intellectual pursuit. Its long-standing tradition of embracing different cultures has left an indelible mark, making it not just a city of the past, but one of continued significance in Egypt’s evolving narrative.
Things to do
Visit the Qaitbay Citadel
The Qaitbay Citadel (sometimes spelt as “Quitbay”) is a grand 15th-century fortress, built on the exact spot where the legendary Lighthouse of Alexandria once stood. You may remember that the lighthouse — one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Sadly, it was destroyed by earthquakes centuries ago, but the citadel was erected in 1477 by Sultan Al-Ashraf Sayf al-Din Qaitbay to protect the city from invading forces. Stepping inside, we were immediately taken by the cool air and solid structure. You can really feel the age of the place — thick stone walls, narrow staircases, and little windows that once served as lookout points for soldiers. The whole place has a quiet dignity to it.
It’s quite easy to walk around, although some steps are a bit steep, so sensible shoes are a must. We brought water with us too, which was wise, as it can get rather warm even with the sea breeze. There’s not a lot in terms of furniture or displays — this isn’t a museum in the traditional sense — but the building itself is the star. You’ll find small rooms that once housed troops, winding passages, and a central courtyard that catches the sunlight beautifully.
One of the highlights for us was climbing up to the higher levels. From the top, the view across the harbour is nothing short of marvellous. You can see fishing boats bobbing about, the city stretching off behind you, and the open sea ahead. We lingered for ages just taking it all in.
Despite its military origins, the citadel feels peaceful today. It’s popular with locals as well as tourists, and we noticed several Egyptian families enjoying the sunshine and taking photos. It’s a lovely place to sit and watch the world go by. Outside, there are a few souvenir stalls, and we picked up a small hand-carved model of the lighthouse as a memento. There’s also a small café nearby where we had a refreshing hibiscus drink — tart but quite pleasant.
Explore the Catacombs
One of the highlights of our time in Alexandria was visiting the Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa. We’d read about them in our guidebook before setting off, but nothing quite prepares you for the experience of descending into a Roman-era necropolis tucked away beneath the bustle of the modern city.
For anyone who enjoys a bit of history and doesn’t mind going underground, this is truly worth the stop.
The Catacombs date back to the 2nd century AD and were used as a family tomb before being expanded. They were discovered by accident in 1900 when a donkey supposedly fell into a hole – quite the find!
You’ll start by going down a spiral staircase carved around a large circular shaft. It gets cooler as you descend, which was a welcome change from the heat outside. Comfortable shoes are a must – the steps can be a bit uneven and damp in places. Not ideal if you have mobility issues, but manageable if you take your time.
Inside, you’ll find a mix of Egyptian, Greek and Roman styles all jumbled together, which makes for a fascinating blend. The walls are carved with strange and beautiful images – some of the figures wear togas, others look like they belong on the walls of a pharaoh’s tomb. We were especially taken by the carvings in the main burial chamber, where two serpent figures guard the tomb. Rather spooky, but beautiful all the same.
There are three levels in total, though only the first two were open during our visit due to water damage on the lowest floor. Even so, there’s plenty to see – corridors, small chambers, and even what was once a banquet hall where family members would gather to honour the dead.
Check out the Library of Alexandria
We had the pleasure of visiting one of the most remarkable places we’ve ever set foot in — the modern Library of Alexandria, or as it’s known in Egypt, the Bibliotheca Alexandrina.
The Library of Alexandria is not just any old library — it’s a nod to the ancient library that once stood as the greatest centre of learning in the ancient world. That original library, built over 2,000 years ago, was tragically destroyed, but the dream of creating a place of knowledge lived on. In 2002, this modern version opened its doors, and what a beautiful job they’ve done.
The building itself is absolutely stunning — very modern, sleek, and full of symbolism. From the outside, it looks like a great disc tilted toward the sea, meant to represent the rising sun of knowledge. The walls are etched with writing in every script imaginable, which really brings home the idea that this is a place for everyone, no matter where you’re from.
Inside, the main reading hall is enormous and filled with natural light. It has a kind of peaceful hush, even when it’s busy. We loved how spacious it was — row after row of desks, with people quietly reading or working. It gave us a bit of a thrill to know we were sitting where scholars from all over the world come to study.
Now, if you think libraries are just about borrowing novels or encyclopaedias, think again. This place is more like a cultural and educational centre. There are museums inside (yes, museums plural), exhibitions, art galleries, and even a planetarium! We particularly enjoyed the Antiquities Museum, which houses real artefacts from ancient Egypt — much of it dug up locally. There’s also a science museum, which is great for kids and grown-ups alike (we spent quite a while fiddling with the hands-on displays).
One thing that really stood out to us was how welcoming the place felt. Entry is very reasonably priced — we only paid a few pounds each — and the staff were incredibly friendly and helpful. There are cafés inside too, which was a lovely surprise. After all that exploring, we sat down with a cup of strong Egyptian coffee and a pastry, watching students and tourists go by. It was a wonderful way to soak in the atmosphere.
Wander around the Temple of Serapis
The Temple of Serapis (also called the Serapeum) was once the grandest temple in Alexandria, dedicated to the god Serapis, who was a clever mix of Greek and Egyptian beliefs. Apparently, he was created as a god to bring together the two cultures – clever idea if you ask us! He represented healing, the underworld, and abundance, among other things.
The temple was built during the Ptolemaic period, when Greek rulers were in charge of Egypt. At one point, this site was home to part of the Great Library of Alexandria – which, as history buffs will know, was one of the greatest centres of learning in the ancient world.
The site is located in a more residential area of the city – not far from the centre. The temple itself no longer stands in full – it was mostly destroyed a long time ago – but what remains is absolutely fascinating. The most famous feature is Pompey’s Pillar, a massive red granite column standing tall in the middle of the ruins. Despite the name, it has nothing to do with Pompey the Roman general – it’s actually a monument to Emperor Diocletian. Still, very impressive and you get a real sense of how grand the place must have been.
There are also underground chambers and a network of tunnels beneath the site, which we were able to explore. These include a small shrine and what’s believed to be part of the library annex. You need to mind your step as it’s a bit uneven, but it’s well worth it.
Experience the calm beauty of the Abu al-Abbas al-Mursi Mosque
We had arrived in Alexandria on a Friday, which is always more complicated when visiting mosques. But our guide was determined that we should see the Abu al-Abbas al-Mursi Mosque – a breathtaking sight that gave us a moment of peace and a deep appreciation for the city’s layered past.
Now, we’re not religious, and we don’t pretend to know everything about Islamic history, but this mosque felt welcoming, calm, and truly worth the visit – even if just to stand quietly and take in its beauty.
The mosque is dedicated to a 13th-century Andalusian (Spanish) Sufi saint called Abu al-Abbas al-Mursi. He settled in Alexandria and became a much-loved religious figure. His tomb is actually inside the mosque, and it has been a place of pilgrimage for centuries.
The original shrine was built in 1307, but the grand mosque as you see it today was rebuilt in the 1940s, using a mix of old traditions and modern elegance. It sits near the harbour in the Anfoushi district – not far from the Citadel of Qaitbay, so you can easily pair the two on the same day.
The creamy-beige walls, the lovely domes, and the towering minaret make for a striking view. It reminded us – in a strange way – of something out of a storybook. The intricate carvings and patterns on the outside are simply exquisite.
Inside, it’s just as beautiful. The floor is soft underfoot (you remove your shoes at the door), and light filters down gently from high windows. The ceilings are high and painted with delicate geometric patterns. There’s a lovely hush about the place, even when other visitors are around.
Discover the history of Kom El Dikka
Kom El Dikka is right in the heart of modern-day Alexandria, surprisingly tucked in amongst apartment blocks, busy roads and the usual city bustle. You wouldn’t necessarily think there’s an ancient site hiding there at first glance—but once you’re through the entrance gate (which is modest and easy to miss), it all opens up beautifully.
The name, we were told, means “Mound of Rubble”, which sounds rather underwhelming—but don’t let that put you off. This place is anything but a pile of old stones. The most striking thing is the Roman amphitheatre. It’s in remarkably good condition considering it’s been around since the 2nd century AD. You can walk right down to the stage area and sit where the audience would have sat nearly 2,000 years ago.
Around the amphitheatre are Roman baths, lecture halls, and a series of old mosaic floors. One called the “Villa of the Birds” still shows birds in lovely detail, despite its age. You really get a sense of how people lived, learned, and entertained themselves back then. It’s not like a museum where everything’s behind glass—you can walk around the ruins freely, which makes it feel much more real and alive.
Getting around Alexandria
🚶♂️ Walking
Alexandria’s corniche (seafront promenade) is perfect for strolling, especially in the cooler months. Many attractions, such as the Citadel of Qaitbay, Bibliotheca Alexandrina, and Montaza Palace gardens, are within walkable distance in their respective areas. Pavements can be uneven in places, so sensible footwear is advised.
🚌 Public Buses & Microbuses
Alexandria has an extensive network of public buses and microbuses. These are affordable and travel to most parts of the city, but routes and stops may not always be clearly marked. Microbuses are faster but less predictable—ideal for those familiar with local stops.
🚋 Trams
Alexandria is one of the few cities in the world that still uses trams. The blue and yellow trams are the most common, with the nostalgic double-decker trams occasionally running. They are a scenic, albeit slow, way to travel through the city.
🚕 Taxis
Taxis are widely available, and most still use the classic black-and-yellow colour scheme. It’s best to agree on a fare before setting off, as many taxis do not use metres. Alternatively, ride-hailing apps offer more predictable pricing.
🚗 Ride-Hailing Apps
Apps such as Uber and Careem operate throughout Alexandria. They’re convenient, reliable, and offer the comfort of air-conditioned vehicles. This is a recommended option for visitors unfamiliar with the city or Arabic language.
🚴♀️ Bicycles & E-Scooters
While not as common as in other cities, cycling is gaining popularity, particularly along the Corniche and in larger parks. Keep in mind that traffic can be chaotic, so these are best used for leisure rather than daily commuting.
🚆 Train to/from Alexandria
If you’re coming from Cairo or heading there, trains are a popular and efficient choice. Alexandria’s main railway station, Misr Station, is centrally located and connects with major routes across Egypt.
Eating out for vegans in Alexandria
🥗 Vegan Food in Alexandria, Egypt
While Alexandria may not yet be one of the most vegan-friendly cities globally, it’s becoming increasingly easier to enjoy delicious, high-quality plant-based meals. Here are some of the top spots to explore:
🌿 Vegan Vibes – Roushdy
A tranquil vegan café nestled in Roushdy, celebrated for its homely atmosphere and welcoming staff. The menu features wholesome vegan Egyptian and international favourites such as lentil soup, plant-based burgers, and dairy-free desserts.
📍 Address: 45 Ahmed Yehia Street, Roushdy, Alexandria
🌐 Instagram: @veganvibes.eg
🍜 Green Table – Stanly
This plant-based café in Stanly champions wellness and clean eating. Known for their nutrient-rich bowls, cold-pressed juices, and raw vegan treats, it’s a haven for health-focused diners.
📍 Address: 12 El Geish Road, Stanly, Alexandria
🌐 Website: greentableeg.com
🛒 The Vegan Shop – Online & Delivery in Alexandria
Egypt’s pioneering fully vegan online grocery store also serves Alexandria, offering plant-based meats, cheeses, snacks, and cruelty-free personal care products — perfect for restocking your kitchen.
🌐 Website: theveganshop.store
🍽️ Sea Salt – Corniche, Gleem
While not fully vegan, this stylish seaside restaurant offers several vegan-friendly dishes with fresh, local ingredients. Enjoy plant-based options while taking in breathtaking views of the Mediterranean.
📍 Address: 123 El Geish Road, Gleem, Alexandria
🌐 Website: seasaltalex.com
🧁 Bean & Butter – San Stefano
A popular café offering vegan-friendly baked goods and plant-based milk alternatives. The cosy indoor space and garden patio make it an ideal spot for an afternoon treat.
📍 Address: 8 Mostafa Kamel Street, San Stefano, Alexandria
🌐 Instagram: @beanbutter.alex
🥙 Zooba – Alexandria Branch
This trendy Egyptian street food chain features vegan staples like koshary, taameya (falafel), and ful medames. Dishes are clearly labelled and bursting with flavour.
📍 Address: City Centre Alexandria, Ground Floor Food Court
🌐 Website: zoobaeats.com
🌱 Lychee – Fresh Juices & Snacks
Great for on-the-go smoothies, juices, and light vegan snacks. Several outlets around Alexandria offer quick and refreshing plant-based options.
📍 Various locations in Alexandria
🌐 Website: lycheegroup.com
The best time to visit Alexandria
🌸 Spring (March to May)
Spring is one of the best times to visit Alexandria. The weather is mild and refreshing, with temperatures ranging between 17°C and 24°C. The city’s gardens and coastal areas are in full bloom, offering a picturesque backdrop for sightseeing.
Highlights:
🌼 Comfortable temperatures for walking and exploring
🌊 Ideal for visiting the Corniche and historic sites
🚫 Less crowded than summer
☀️ Summer (June to August)
Summer is peak tourist season in Alexandria. Temperatures can rise to 31°C or more, but the Mediterranean breeze helps moderate the heat. Locals and tourists alike flock to the beaches.
Highlights:
🏖️ Best time for beach lovers
🌅 Beautiful sunsets along the Corniche
🎉 Lively city atmosphere
Things to Consider:
😓 Can get hot and humid
🧳 Book accommodation early due to high demand
🍁 Autumn (September to November)
Autumn brings cooler temperatures and fewer crowds. With averages between 20°C and 27°C, it’s a fantastic time to enjoy the cultural and historical aspects of the city without the hustle of summer.
Highlights:
🎨 Great lighting for photography
🕌 Easier access to attractions
🍂 Calm and peaceful ambience
❄️ Winter (December to February)
Winters in Alexandria are cool and occasionally rainy, with temperatures between 11°C and 18°C. While swimming isn’t ideal, it’s a perfect season for cultural exploration and enjoying the city’s café culture.
Highlights:
📸 Quiet city, perfect for sightseeing
☕ Enjoy warm drinks with sea views
🎭 Winter festivals and events
📋 Summary Table: Best Time to Visit Alexandria
| Season | Avg. Temp (°C) | Best For | Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| 🌸 Spring | 17–24 | Sightseeing, walking tours | Slight rise in tourists |
| ☀️ Summer | 25–31+ | Beaches, vibrant city life | Hot, crowded |
| 🍁 Autumn | 20–27 | Culture, calm visits | Shorter daylight hours |
| ❄️ Winter | 11–18 | Cafés, museums, festivals | Occasional rain, cooler |
🌸 Spring (March to May)
Spring is one of the best times to visit Alexandria. The weather is mild and refreshing, with temperatures ranging between 17°C and 24°C. The city’s gardens and coastal areas are in full bloom, offering a picturesque backdrop for sightseeing.
Highlights:
🌼 Comfortable temperatures for walking and exploring
🌊 Ideal for visiting the Corniche and historic sites
🚫 Less crowded than summer
☀️ Summer (June to August)
Summer is peak tourist season in Alexandria. Temperatures can rise to 31°C or more, but the Mediterranean breeze helps moderate the heat. Locals and tourists alike flock to the beaches.
Highlights:
🏖️ Best time for beach lovers
🌅 Beautiful sunsets along the Corniche
🎉 Lively city atmosphere
Things to Consider:
😓 Can get hot and humid
🧳 Book accommodation early due to high demand
🍁 Autumn (September to November)
Autumn brings cooler temperatures and fewer crowds. With averages between 20°C and 27°C, it’s a fantastic time to enjoy the cultural and historical aspects of the city without the hustle of summer.
Highlights:
🎨 Great lighting for photography
🕌 Easier access to attractions
🍂 Calm and peaceful ambience
❄️ Winter (December to February)
Winters in Alexandria are cool and occasionally rainy, with temperatures between 11°C and 18°C. While swimming isn’t ideal, it’s a perfect season for cultural exploration and enjoying the city’s café culture.
Highlights:
📸 Quiet city, perfect for sightseeing
☕ Enjoy warm drinks with sea views
🎭 Winter festivals and events
📋 Summary Table: Best Time to Visit Alexandria
| Season | Avg. Temp (°C) | Best For | Considerations |
|---|---|---|---|
| 🌸 Spring | 17–24 | Sightseeing, walking tours | Slight rise in tourists |
| ☀️ Summer | 25–31+ | Beaches, vibrant city life | Hot, crowded |
| 🍁 Autumn | 20–27 | Culture, calm visits | Shorter daylight hours |
| ❄️ Winter | 11–18 | Cafés, museums, festivals | Occasional rain, cooler |
Where to stay in Alexandria
1. Mid Range: San Giovanni Stanly Hotel
Comfort Sphinx & Pyramids Inn is a cosy and welcoming guesthouse located just a short walk from the Giza Plateau, offering stunning views of the Great Pyramids and the Sphinx right from its rooftop terrace. It’s a popular choice for travellers looking for a more personal, homely alternative to large hotels while still being close to Cairo’s most iconic landmarks. The rooms are clean and comfortable, with air conditioning, private bathrooms, and essential amenities to make your stay pleasant. The staff are known for their friendliness and hospitality, often going out of their way to help guests arrange tours, transport, or local dining experiences. Breakfast is typically included and served on the rooftop, where you can enjoy your meal with the pyramids in the background—a truly unforgettable setting. While the inn itself is modest and not luxurious, it offers excellent value for money, especially for those who want an authentic and convenient base for exploring the wonders of ancient Egypt
2. Luxury – Tolip Hotel Alexandria
The Tolip Hotel Alexandria is a prominent luxury hotel situated along the scenic Corniche in Alexandria, Egypt, offering panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea. This upscale property blends modern comfort with touches of classic elegance, making it a popular choice for both business and leisure travellers. The hotel’s prime location provides easy access to major attractions such as the Alexandria National Museum, Bibliotheca Alexandrina, and the historic Qaitbay Citadel. Inside, guests are welcomed by a grand lobby adorned with marble flooring and contemporary furnishings, setting the tone for a sophisticated stay. The rooms and suites are spacious and well-appointed, featuring modern amenities including flat-screen televisions, minibars, high-speed Wi-Fi, and private balconies overlooking either the sea or the city. Dining options at the Tolip Hotel are varied, with multiple restaurants offering Egyptian specialities, international cuisine, and fresh seafood. Guests can unwind at the hotel’s outdoor swimming pool, enjoy a rejuvenating treatment at the spa, or maintain their fitness regime at the well-equipped gym. Known for its attentive service and elegant ambience, the Tolip Hotel Alexandria consistently provides a comfortable and memorable experience for visitors to Egypt’s second-largest city.
1 2
More to Explore
