UNESCO has listed Ancient Thebes with its Necropolis as a World Heritage Site because it includes some of the most important temples, tombs, and monuments from ancient Egypt—such as the Karnak and Luxor temples, the Valley of the Kings, and the Valley of the Queens—showing the city's role as a major religious and political centre for many centuries and offering a unique insight into Egyptian beliefs, art, and history.
Egypt: Cairo – The Historic Christian Churches
✝️ Walking Through the Christian Heart of Old Cairo
Cairo, often defined in the imagination by its grand mosques, pyramids and chaotic streets, also holds within it a quieter, deeply spiritual core—the old Coptic quarter. Tucked away behind busy roads and railway tracks lies a cluster of historic Christian sites that tell the story of one of the world’s oldest Christian communities. We spent a good part of the day exploring these places, guided once again by the ever-reliable Amir, who navigated the alleyways and timelines with calm precision.
⛪ The Hanging Church – History Balancing Above the Ground
We began with the Hanging Church, or to give it its full title, the Church of Saint Virgin Mary’s Coptic Orthodox Church. It’s one of the most iconic and oldest churches in Egypt, with roots stretching back to the 3rd century. The name “Hanging Church” isn’t just poetic—it really does sit above a Roman gatehouse from the old Babylon Fortress. You climb a few steps and then step into a building that appears to hover above the ancient stones.
Once inside, you realise it’s not about size. It’s quite a compact space, atmospheric and dimly lit, with a ceiling shaped like an upturned boat and some genuinely beautiful wooden carvings and icons dotted around. A far cry from the open grandeur of the Mohamed Ali Mosque we’d visited earlier—this was much more intimate. Despite the centuries, it’s still an active place of worship and pilgrimage, particularly for Egypt’s Coptic Christian community.
📚 Down the Alley: St. Sergius and Bacchus Church
From there, we took a short stroll, following Amir down a set of stairs that led to a narrow alleyway. Along one side were racks of religious books for sale—some new, many looking like they’d survived a sandstorm or two. This little corridor eventually brought us to another church—St. Sergius and Bacchus.
This church isn’t just old (5th century, by some accounts), it also holds a rather special status in Christian tradition. It’s believed to be built over the spot where the Holy Family—Joseph, Mary, and the infant Jesus—rested during their escape into Egypt, a story outlined in the Gospel of Matthew. It’s a central episode in Christian teaching, though, as Amir pointed out, the exact route and duration of the Holy Family’s time in Egypt remains something of a mystery. Even so, the idea that this small space could have offered them shelter adds a layer of significance.
Inside, it’s quiet and simple—wooden pews, a few frescoes, and a well in the crypt that’s said to have been used by the Holy Family. Whether it was or wasn’t, the place certainly carries a peaceful sort of reverence.
🧕 A Surprise Visit to the Nunnery of Saint George
Retracing our steps, we passed a small door halfway down the same alley that had been closed earlier in the day. It had since opened, and after a brief consultation with Amir, we decided to go in. The place turned out to be a nunnery dedicated to Saint George—the very same St. George who’s the patron saint of England.
Now, I’ll admit I knew very little about St. George beyond the dragon-slaying bit. Turns out, in the Coptic Christian tradition, he’s highly venerated—not just for slaying mythical beasts, but for his steadfastness in the face of Roman persecution. He refused to renounce his Christian faith and paid for it with his life under Emperor Diocletian. These stories are a key part of Coptic identity, particularly his role as a symbol of resilience and divine victory.
Inside the chapel, there are colourful paintings of St. George defeating the dragon, shown on horseback, sword raised, with onlookers watching in awe. There’s also a relic of the saint kept in a quiet corner. Not overly showy, but clearly meaningful for those who come to visit.
🏛️ St. George’s Church – A Rare Circular Design
A short walk from the nunnery took us to another church also named after Saint George—this one being a fully-fledged Coptic Orthodox church and a bit more on the grand side. Architecturally, it’s unusual for a Coptic church in that it’s circular, a feature not commonly found in Egyptian ecclesiastical buildings.
The church, situated within the ancient Coptic compound, is believed to have origins as far back as the 10th century. It’s been rebuilt and restored several times over, with the current form dating to the 19th century. Inside, it’s richly decorated with religious icons, colourful frescoes, and intricate woodwork. There’s also a tomb for notable Coptic figures, which adds a further layer of historical significance. It’s still an active site of worship and a popular stop for both pilgrims and tourists.
Planning your visit
📍 Address
Coptic Cairo (Old Cairo)
Mar Girgis Street, Coptic Cairo, Cairo Governorate, Egypt
This area includes the Hanging Church, St. Sergius and Bacchus, St. George’s Church, and the St. George Nunnery. All are within walking distance of each other inside the old fortified Roman section of the city, sometimes referred to as the Babylon Fortress.
🚌 How to Get There
Best way in is by Metro – take Line 1 (Helwan Line) and get off at Mar Girgis Station. The station practically drops you at the gates of the Coptic compound.
Alternatively, a taxi or ride-hailing app (Uber and Careem both work well in Cairo) will get you there easily from most parts of the city.
Avoid driving unless you fancy testing your nerves in Cairo traffic—most visitors find it’s not worth the stress.
🌐 Website
There’s no single website for the churches themselves, but some information is available via:
https://egymonuments.gov.eg
Search for individual sites like “Hanging Church” or “St. George’s Church” for more details.
Not all churches have public emails, but general tourism or monument enquiries can be directed to:
info@egymonuments.gov.eg
Don’t hold your breath waiting for a reply, but worth a go if you’re after something specific.
📞 Telephone
You can try the Egyptian Ministry of Tourism on:
+20 2 2735 7223
Again, whether you’ll get a fluent English speaker depends on the day, but they may be able to direct you.
🕒 Opening Hours
Daily: 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM
Hours may vary slightly depending on the church and religious calendar. Most are closed to tourists during services or major feasts.
Top tip: Go earlier in the day—things are quieter, cooler, and you’re less likely to run into a school group.
💰 Entry Fees
General entry to churches: Free
Donations are welcome and often encouraged. You’ll usually see a box near the entrance.
Some adjoining museums (like the Coptic Museum nearby):
Foreign adults: EGP 180
Foreign students: EGP 90
Egyptian nationals: lower rates
😂 Quick Summary – What to Expect
⛪ Centuries-old churches with ancient relics and cool crypts – no modern lighting, but plenty of atmosphere.
🚇 Mar Girgis Metro Station drops you right at the gate. No excuses.
🧭 You’ll get lost at least once in the alleys – just pretend it’s intentional.
🐪 Zero camels here – just a lot of old stone, saints, and incense.
📷 Great for photos (outside and non-service times) – though you’ll have to be subtle in some places.
👟 Wear comfortable shoes – ancient paving stones weren’t made with arch support in mind.
🙏 Yes, it’s a religious site – so keep it respectful, and maybe leave the tank top at the hotel.
📚 You might leave knowing more about Coptic saints than you ever planned to.
Getting around Cairo
🚇 Metro
The Cairo Metro is one of the quickest ways to get around the city. It’s cheap, air-conditioned, and avoids the traffic. There are three lines covering many important areas. Tickets are affordable, and trains come every few minutes.
Tip: Avoid rush hour (7–9am and 4–6pm) if you can – it gets very crowded.
🚌 Buses and Microbuses
Public buses and smaller microbuses are everywhere, but they can be confusing for visitors. They’re very cheap, but there are no clear maps or stops.
Tip: Unless you speak Arabic or have local help, it’s best to avoid these at first.
🚖 Taxis
Taxis are easy to find, especially black-and-white or white ones with metres. However, some drivers may not want to use the metre. Agree on a price before getting in, or insist on using the metre.
Tip: Use cash and keep small change.
📱 Ride Apps (Uber & Careem)
Uber and Careem are great for visitors. They’re safer, the price is fixed, and there’s no need to speak Arabic. You can pay by card or cash.
Tip: Check both apps to compare prices.
🚶♂️ Walking
Walking is possible in some parts of Cairo, but the city isn’t very pedestrian-friendly. Pavements can be broken or blocked, and traffic is chaotic.
Tip: Be very careful when crossing the road – cars rarely stop!
🚗 Car Hire
You can rent a car, but driving in Cairo is not recommended for visitors. Traffic is heavy, and local driving habits can be very different.
Tip: If you need a car, it’s better to hire one with a driver.
⛴️ River Transport
You can take a boat or a felucca on the Nile for a scenic journey. It’s more for fun than practical transport, but it’s a lovely way to see the city.
Tip: Agree on a price and duration before boarding.
Eating out for vegans in Cairo
🥗 Vegan Food in Cairo, Egypt
While Cairo might not be the most vegan-friendly city in the world, it’s becoming easier to find delicious, high-quality plant-based meals. Here are some of the best places to check out:
🌿 Vegan in Our House – Maadi
A peaceful vegan café tucked away in Maadi, known for its cosy setting and friendly owners. The menu features home-style vegan Egyptian and international dishes, including lentil soup, burgers, and vegan desserts.
📍 Address: 3 Street 198, Degla, Maadi, Cairo
🌐 Website: veganinourhouse.com
🍜 Be Good to You – Zamalek
Located in the heart of Zamalek, this plant-based café focuses on wellness and clean eating. Their bowls, smoothies, and raw desserts are popular among vegans and health-conscious foodies alike.
📍 Address: 11 El-Malek El-Fadl, Zamalek, Cairo
🌐 Instagram: @begoodtoyou.eg
🛒 The Vegan Shop – Online & Delivery
Egypt’s first fully vegan online grocery store, offering plant-based meat, cheese, snacks, and personal care items. Ideal for stocking up your kitchen with cruelty-free products.
🌐 Website: theveganshop.store
🍽️ Khufu’s – Giza Plateau
Located near the Pyramids, Khufu’s is an upscale Egyptian restaurant that offers several vegan-friendly options. While not fully vegan, the kitchen is accommodating, and the view is unbeatable.
📍 Address: Inside the Giza Plateau, near the Pyramids
🌐 Website: khufusrestaurant.com
🧁 Granita – Zamalek
Though not exclusively vegan, Granita offers a few excellent vegan baked goods and great coffee with non-dairy milk options. The garden setting is perfect for a relaxing afternoon.
📍 Address: All Saints’ Cathedral, 5 Michel Lutfallah Street, Zamalek
🌐 Instagram: @granitazamalek
🥙 Zooba – Multiple Branches
A trendy Egyptian street food chain that offers several vegan dishes, including koshary, falafel, and ful (fava beans). Always clearly marked and full of flavour.
📍 Main Branch: 26th of July Street, Zamalek
🌐 Website: zoobaeats.com
🌱 Lychee – Healthy Juices & Snacks
Great for a quick vegan juice or smoothie on the go. Some locations also sell vegan sandwiches and snacks.
📍 Various locations across Cairo
🌐 Website: lycheegroup.com
The best time to visit Cairo
☀️ Best Time to Visit Cairo
Cairo is a city full of history, culture, and sunshine. But choosing the right time to visit can make your trip even better. Here’s when to go:
🌸 Spring (March to May) – Best Overall Time
Spring is one of the best times to visit Cairo. The weather is warm but not too hot, making it ideal for exploring the Pyramids or walking through the markets. There are fewer tourists compared to winter, so it’s a great time for a more relaxed trip.
☀️ Autumn (October to November) – Great Weather
Autumn is another lovely season in Cairo. The heat of summer has passed, and the temperatures are comfortable. You can enjoy sightseeing, river cruises, and outdoor cafés without feeling overheated.
❄️ Winter (December to February) – Cooler and Busier
Winter is the most popular time for tourists. The days are sunny but cooler, especially in the evenings. It’s perfect for people who don’t like hot weather. Just keep in mind that it can be busy and prices may be higher.
🔥 Summer (June to September) – Very Hot
Summer in Cairo is very hot, with temperatures often going above 35°C. It’s the low season for tourism because of the heat. If you don’t mind high temperatures and want cheaper prices, it might still be worth it.
🎒 Tip for Travellers
No matter when you visit, always bring sunglasses, sunscreen, and a hat. The Egyptian sun is strong all year round!
Where to stay in Cairo
🕌 Historic & Cultural: Islamic Cairo
Best for: First-time visitors, history enthusiasts
Why: Home to the Citadel, Sultan Hassan Mosque, Al-Azhar Mosque, Khan El Khalili Bazaar—all within walking distance.
Vibe: Quiet in the evenings, deeply rooted in heritage.
Drawbacks: Can feel a bit touristy, and not much nightlife.
🌊 Scenic & Local: Zamalek
Best for: A balance of local charm and modern comforts
Why: Set on the Nile, full of leafy streets, galleries, and cafes; close to Downtown and the Opera House.
Vibe: Artsy, cultured, walkable.
Drawbacks: Can be pricey and traffic-heavy during peak hours.
🛍️ Trendy & Lively: Downtown Cairo
Best for: Nightlife, cafes, shopping, cultural mix
Why: Bustling with energy, great access to museums, cinemas, and late-night spots.
Vibe: Urban, vibrant, youthful.
Drawbacks: Can be noisy and chaotic, especially around Tahrir Square.
🌳 Chic & Upscale: Heliopolis
Best for: Luxury travellers, upscale shopping
Why: Wide boulevards, elegant architecture, high-end shops and restaurants.
Vibe: Sophisticated, spacious, modern.
Drawbacks: Further from central historic sites—requires a car or ride-hailing.
🛥️ Waterside & Relaxed: Maadi
Best for: A quieter, more residential experience
Why: Riverside promenades, international eateries, and a relaxed atmosphere popular with expats.
Vibe: Leafy, peaceful, community-driven.
Drawbacks: Longer commute to central attractions, but worth it for the calm.
1. Mid Range: Comfort Sphinx&Pyramids Inn
Comfort Sphinx & Pyramids Inn is a cosy and welcoming guesthouse located just a short walk from the Giza Plateau, offering stunning views of the Great Pyramids and the Sphinx right from its rooftop terrace. It’s a popular choice for travellers looking for a more personal, homely alternative to large hotels while still being close to Cairo’s most iconic landmarks. The rooms are clean and comfortable, with air conditioning, private bathrooms, and essential amenities to make your stay pleasant. The staff are known for their friendliness and hospitality, often going out of their way to help guests arrange tours, transport, or local dining experiences. Breakfast is typically included and served on the rooftop, where you can enjoy your meal with the pyramids in the background—a truly unforgettable setting. While the inn itself is modest and not luxurious, it offers excellent value for money, especially for those who want an authentic and convenient base for exploring the wonders of ancient Egypt
2. Luxury – The St. Regis Cairo
The St. Regis Cairo is one of the most luxurious and prestigious hotels in the city, offering an exceptional blend of timeless elegance and modern sophistication. Located on the banks of the River Nile, the hotel enjoys a prime position in the heart of Cairo, with easy access to key landmarks such as Tahrir Square, the Egyptian Museum, and the lively Zamalek district. Designed by renowned architect Michael Graves, its striking architecture and lavish interiors make a strong impression from the moment you arrive. The hotel features a range of opulent rooms and suites, many with stunning Nile views, all equipped with top-tier amenities and the signature St. Regis Butler Service. Guests can enjoy world-class dining across several restaurants offering everything from refined Egyptian cuisine to international favourites. The Iridium Spa provides a serene escape with indulgent treatments, while the indoor and outdoor pools, fitness centre, and elegant lounges cater to both relaxation and recreation.
3. Budget – Solima Pyramids View
Solima Pyramids View is a popular spot located near the Giza Plateau, offering stunning, up-close views of the iconic Pyramids of Giza, including the Great Pyramid, the Pyramid of Khafre, and the Pyramid of Menkaure. Many visitors choose this location for its unbeatable perspective of the ancient monuments, especially at sunrise or sunset when the lighting casts a golden hue over the desert landscape. The area around Solima Pyramids View is home to a mix of cafés, rooftop terraces, and guesthouses, where you can relax with traditional Egyptian tea or a meal while admiring the view. It’s particularly well-loved by travellers who want a more immersive, local experience compared to staying in central Cairo. The atmosphere is laid-back, and the streets nearby have a charming, slightly rustic feel, giving a sense of being close to everyday life in Giza.
More to Explore
