The Taneka villages in Benin, located in the Atacora region, are known for their unique cultural heritage, traditional mud-brick architecture, and their role as a living testament to the rituals and customs of the Taneka people.
Benin: Ouidah – Our Voodoo Festival Experience
The plan for the day was to travel to the city of Allada about 90km northwest of where we were staying in Grand Popo to attend the Voodoo Festival there. As we drove down the road Ben got a call from a colleague who was in Ouidah, which was on the way, to tell him that some ceremonies were happening there. So, our plan changed.
The Ouidah Voodoo Festival, also known as the Fête du Vodoun, is an annual cultural and spiritual event held in Ouidah. This vibrant festival celebrates the traditional African religion of Vodun (Voodoo), which has deep historical roots in the region. It typically takes place on January 10th, which is also recognised as National Voodoo Day in Bénin.
Ouidah holds a significant place in the history of the transatlantic slave trade, during which many enslaved Africans, particularly from Bénin, were taken to the Americas. These individuals carried their spiritual beliefs with them, leading to the spread of Voodoo in places such as Haiti, Brazil, and the southern United States.
The festival is not only a religious observance but also a cultural celebration, aiming to preserve and promote the Vodun religion and its associated rituals, dance, music, and art.
The Opening Ceremony
We arrived just as events were starting at one of the venues in the town. An event space had been set up outside the Temple of the Python and the band of drummers was already in full swing. Around the arena in the front row seats were dignitaries from the Voodoo community. One of these chairs was a big old armchair. There were some seats available under a pop-up tent, so we grabbed them and settled in for the ceremony. Accompanying the drumming were a lot of women, who were brightly dressed – they did a lot of singing and occasionally would dance vigorously in pairs.
There were many tourists, who seemed intent to get into the faces of people, especially the performers and the dignitaries – who seemed to ignore them mostly. Unfortunately, I had to get up and find places to take my photographs to make sure I got some clear shots.
Then some of the most important dignitaries arrived with the own entourage. I assumed one of them was the high priest as he had quite a group with him, and he took his place in the armchair.
For around the next 90-minutes there was a lot of drumming and dancing going on. How they managed to keep it going in the heat was a marvel to us. Slowly, things started to wind down, and dignitaries started to leave. The ceremony did not completely stop, but the main event was over.
The Temple of the Python
Before leaving the town centre, our guide took us to have a look at the Temple of the Python which was adjacent to the arena we had been sitting at. The temple stands near the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, illustrating the unique coexistence of indigenous African religious traditions with Christianity.
It is one of the most significant and revered religious sites in the region, deeply connected to the local Vodun (or Voodoo) beliefs and practices. The temple houses dozens of royal pythons, which are considered sacred symbols of fertility, protection, and spiritual power by the local population. According to local legend, these snakes have long played a central role in the community’s spiritual life, symbolizing a connection between the physical and metaphysical worlds.
We had a young man act as our guide around the Temple. It is very small, so it does not take much time to go around. There is one main structure where the pythons are kept. As we stood outside waiting to go, our guide disappeared inside – reappearing with one of the pythons. It was not a huge snake, so it was not too frightening! Anyway, he put it around Karen’s neck, followed by mine. The python was used to being handled and seemed to be quite happy wrapped around our necks. After this, we took our shoes off and popped inside the small, main temple. Inside were dozens of pythons all lying on top of each other, with one wrapped the neck of a stone head on the floor. Indiana Jones would have hated this.
The Sacred Forest of Kpassè
This forest is dedicated to King Kpassè, a 16th-century ruler of the Kingdom of Whydah. According to local legend, to evade his enemies, King Kpassè transformed himself into an Iroko tree within this forest. This tree remains a central feature of the forest and is revered by visitors who believe that touching it and making a wish will ensure their desires come true.
Once inside we could see that there was a Voodoo ceremony taking place, but before we could go and watch, we were introduced to our guide Florin, who was going to take us on a tour of the 5-hectare site occupied by the Sacred Forest. The are two parts to the Forest; one is open to the public, and the second part is only allowed to be visited by those initiated into the Voodoo religion. Around the public part are several statues. Some are made from plaster others look like modern art pieces sculpted from scrap metal (which were our favourites). The statues represent Voodoo gods and initiates – the gods represented include Gu, the god of war and blacksmiths, Sakpata – the divinity associated with illness and smallpox and Lègba: the messenger of all Vodun gods, often depicted with explicit features symbolizing fertility.
Florin also showed us a large tree that had supposedly been blown over in a storm in 1988, only a few days later found to be once again standing. Miraculous! We moved to take a look at the Iroko tree which was formally King Kpassè. In the trees above fruit bats were flying in and out of their roosts.
Voodoo Ceremony
One of the things we most wanted to see at the Voodoo festival was the dances involving the Voodoo Initiates.
The best place we found to see these ceremonies was at the Sacred Forest of Kpassè.
There was a group of men rhythmically drumming, accompanied by ladies chanting and dancing. Occasionally, one of the Voodoo initiates would run out, seemingly in a trance, and would be stopped by some of the other group members. The group would remove the Initiate’s wrap and replace it with a raffia skirt and then cover the initiates in a yellow paste made of palm oil and corn flour. The Initiates then dance frenetically in time to the music.
The Egungun ceremony
We took a wander to another arena where there was another ceremony taking place. This was called the Egungun ceremony.
The Egungun dancers were fully masked and covered head to toe in the most beautiful, ornate and colourful costumes – each one so unique! The chorus was a group of men drumming, women chanting and others singing. The Egungun represents the “collective spirit” of the ancestors. The Egungun dancers would rise from the bench and do a short performance, moving, dancing, and sometimes whirling. During the ceremony, the ancestor spirits are summoned to return, including to impart wisdom, blessings and justice to the living. When in costume, the local people believe the Egungun dancers become possessed by the ancestor spirits, and if they get touched by them, they will be cursed. Occasionally, the barriers around the arena would be pulled back and the Egungun would race into the crowd and the people would run away to avoid being touched. It was somewhat crazy.
The Beach Party
In the last couple of years, the Voodoo Festival has been rebranded as ‘Vodun Days’ – you can see the branding all around Ouidah. Previously, most celebrations were held down on the beach, meaning the tourists were drawn away from the centre of the town. The organisers have tried to redress the issue by moving the celebrations to different event areas in the heart of the town. This means that you find the tourists wandering the streets during the day – fantastic. One thing that seemed not to be done so well was the signage to the venues or the wide availability of the details of the event programme. Hopefully, the powers that be will get this sorted for future festivals.
The beach has not been forgotten. A large stage was set up close to the ‘Gate of No Return’ and there was a large area set aside for people to enjoy a beach party after the celebrations in the town were over.
We decided to go an check it out. The traffic to the beach was awful so we decided to walk the 3km from our hotel – it was quicker, unless you hopped on the back of a moto-taxi (I didn’t fancy risking it). Once we got to the beach we discovered two entrance areas. The VIP area got you a nice table near the stage – but the tickets were $150 each. We decided not to do it – instead, we headed to the regular entrance which cost us less than $10 to get in.
Inside there were some marques set up to try and sell you a mobile phone service, but the ones that interested most people were selling BBQ food and alcohol. We made our way to the beer tent and brought ourselves some beer – which was reasonably priced.
The beach area was busy, mostly filled with young people and families just having a good time. The atmosphere was fantastic. We discovered the music wasn’t going to start until after 11pm. Being old and decrepit we decided not to hang around and made our way back to our hotel on foot.
On the way back we passed many hundreds of people coming the other way to join the party. The traffic on the road was worse. It was bumper to bumper the whole 3km back to our hotel and as far as we could see beyond.
Planning your visit
The Ouidah Voodoo Festival, a vibrant celebration of Benin’s rich cultural heritage, is held annually on January 10 in Ouidah, approximately 42 kilometres west of Cotonou.
Transportation Options from Cotonou to Ouidah:
Bush Taxis: These shared taxis operate frequently between Cotonou and Ouidah, offering an affordable means of travel. The journey typically takes about an hour, depending on traffic and road conditions.
Private Vehicles: For a more comfortable experience, consider hiring a private car or taxi. This option provides flexibility in departure times and allows for a more personalized travel experience.
The best time to visit
The optimal time to visit Ouidah is during the dry season, which spans from November to April. This period offers warm and dry weather, ideal for exploring the city’s historical landmarks and engaging in outdoor activities.
Within this timeframe, January stands out as a particularly favourable month. Not only does it feature pleasant weather, but it also hosts the annual Fête du Vodoun (Vodoun Festival) on January 10. This vibrant celebration offers a deep dive into Benin’s rich cultural heritage, with traditional ceremonies, music, and dance, making it a unique experience for visitors.
It’s important to note that Ouidah experiences high humidity year-round, with levels ranging from 80% to 88%. The wet season, characterized by significant rainfall, occurs from May to October, with June being the wettest month. Therefore, planning your visit during the dry season can enhance your travel experience by avoiding heavy rains and ensuring more comfortable exploration conditions.
Where to stay in Grand Popo
1. Hôtel DK
Located in Ouidah, a 14-minute walk from the Ouidah Museum of History, Hôtel DK provides accommodations with a garden, free private parking, a terrace and a restaurant. This 4-star hotel offers free shuttle service and a 24-hour front desk. Guest rooms at the hotel are equipped with a flat-screen TV and a kitchen. All rooms have a private bathroom with a shower and free toiletries. All guest rooms at Hôtel DK feature air conditioning and a desk.
2. RESIDENCE MGA HOTEL
RESIDENCE MGA HOTEL is a 4-star establishment located in Ouidah, Benin, approximately 3.4 km from the Ouidah Museum of History.
The hotel offers daily breakfast options, including à la carte, continental, and Italian selections. The nearest airport is Cotonou Cadjehoun Airport, situated about 37 km away. Guests have praised the attentive staff, comfortable rooms, and tasteful decor. The hotel also features an on-site restaurant and a relaxing terrace. Free private parking is available on-site without the need for a reservation.
3. Natura luxury red house
1.7 miles from Ouidah Museum of History in Ouidah, Natura luxury red house offers accommodations with access to an open-air bath. Offering free Wifi, the property also has a private beach area, water sports facilities, and pool with a view. The accommodation provides a 24-hour front desk and full-day security for guests.
Providing a terrace and lake views, the villa includes 2 bedrooms, a living room, satellite flat-screen TV, an equipped kitchen, and 1 bathroom with a walk-in shower.
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