Benin: Dassa-Zoumé – The King of the hill

We started our journey at the bottom of the hill, where we were introduced to our guide, who was one of the sons of the King. He didn’t speak much English, so our driver came along to help translate.

It was not much of a climb, and there were some approximations to staircases, but we had to be careful where we were placing our feet.

At the top was a simple compound. Our guide gave us some of the background to the cultural role of the King and the practices that take place on the hill. We took off our shoes and entered the King’s realm. Our tour continued inside, and we were given more insights into the traditions of voodoo and animism.

Once the background information was given, the three of us were taken inside a simple structure for an audience with the King. We were told we could ask any questions we liked – all of us were tentative so we started with some basic questions.

We found that he had been King for only about 18 months, his succession was following the death of the previous King. Previously he was living in the town working as a lawyer. New Kings are selected from members of the Royal Family, after consulting with an oracle. New Kings have to go through several ceremonial processes before becoming fully anointed. This King still had one to go.

Amazingly, this King was 81 years old, and he dutifully walks up and down the hill from the town every day. He comes up early in the morning and goes back down in the evening. He sits upon the mountain wearing a simple loin cloth and contemplates life – receiving the occasional strangers like us. Once he has fully ascended to the throne he will live up on the mountain in the simple dwellings and only be allowed to go down once a month. When this transition happens, his family will come and live with him – including his wife. Sensibly, his children, who are all grown up, have moved away so they will not be joining him – but their children will. They will have to go up and down the hill every day to attend school.

It was an amazing experience to meet this fascinating man and get an insight into this cultural phenomenon.

We gave the King a small token to show our thanks and let him be. From the audience, we went to the top of the hill we were on and looked out across the town. Below us was a huge church. Every year there is the Marian pilgrimage of 100,000 or more Catholics from around West Africa, to visit the Grotte Notre-Dame d’Arigbo that sits next to this church. The site gained prominence after reported apparitions of the Virgin Mary in 1978, leading to its establishment as a major pilgrimage destination for Catholics. Each year, thousands of faithful gathers, to participate in religious ceremonies, prayers, and processions, seeking spiritual renewal and blessings.

Once we reached the bottom of the hill we jumped into the car and drove to the church, which is enormous. Unfortunately, it was closed, but we could see inside. On the back wall was a painting, which very much looked like the Mont St Michel in France.

The Grotte includes a natural rock formation that is believed to hold divine significance, offering a space for prayer, reflection, and spiritual renewal. Its design is based on the Grotte in Lourdes, France and there is even a piece of rock, apparently brought from Lourdes, that is embedded in concrete in the Grotte.