The Taneka villages in Benin, located in the Atacora region, are known for their unique cultural heritage, traditional mud-brick architecture, and their role as a living testament to the rituals and customs of the Taneka people.
Bénin: Ganvié Stick Village
Ganvié, often referred to as the “Venice of Africa,” is a unique village in Benin, situated on Lake Nokoué near Cotonou. Founded in the 16th or 17th century by the Tofinu people, it was established as a safe haven during a turbulent period when the powerful Fon kingdom was capturing people for the transatlantic slave trade. Due to a spiritual belief that prevented the Fon warriors from pursuing captives onto the water, the Tofinu built their village on stilts in the lake, creating a thriving community that has endured for centuries. Today, Ganvié remains a vibrant settlement where daily life revolves around the water, with residents using canoes as their primary mode of transportation. Although, called a village about 20,000 live here!
Ganvié’s economy is largely based on fishing and tourism, drawing visitors who marvel at its floating markets, stilt houses, and the intricate way of life sustained on the water. The village’s unique cultural heritage has earned it a place on UNESCO’s Tentative List for World Heritage Sites. Despite its charm, Ganvié faces challenges such as environmental pressures and the need for sustainable tourism.
When we arrived at the end of the dock where the tour boats leave for Ganvié there was a bit of a queue of people waiting for a boat. It was not an issue as it gave us time to watch the comings and goings of the people on the channel from the lake. Mostly, people were on small pirogues, which could comfortably hold a small family. A lot of the traffic involved people doing their commercial business, carrying things to and from the village. It was fascinating to see young children, who could not have been more than 10 years old skilfully manoeuvring their boats among the other traffic.
Eventually, our boat was ready, we climbed aboard and slowly exited the dock area, our captain used a pole to propel the boat until we were clear of the other boat before firing up his engine.
Just beyond the dock was a larger boat filled with yellow jerry cans, which some men were throwing over the side into the water. These containers were full of petrol that had been brought illegally from neighbouring Nigeria. The big boat was too large to get to shore, so they were throwing them into the water to be collected by smaller boats.
Once we were out in the waters of Lake Nokoué things calmed down significantly.
Lake Nokoué is a shallow lagoon covering an area of approximately 160 square kilometres, its waters are brackish, influenced by the Atlantic Ocean to the south and the Ouémé and Sô Rivers that flow into it. It supports a thriving fishing industry, providing livelihoods for local communities. Lake Nokoué is home to diverse flora and fauna, including various fish species and migratory birds, making it a vital ecosystem. We did not see a large open body of water, instead, the lake is filled with small islands with shallow channels of water running between them.
As we travelled towards Ganvié we passed many people paddling along in small boats often filled with small bags of goods they were bringing to or from the village. Also, we saw many people fishing in the lake – we even found a couple of fishermen willing to pose for us, throwing their nets into the water – for a small monetary tip of course.
It took about 25 minutes to reach the village. Just before entering, we were met by a couple of other boats filled with people. Some were paddling, mostly the women, and others were playing the drums. The younger members of the crew were dancing. Things got very loud as the boat pulled up alongside us, and suddenly two young boys jumped aboard and started thrutching in front of Karen and me in time to the drumming. They then moved to the bow of the boat and carried on, with one boy doing a very impressive handstand. Although they were doing this to entertain, the expectation was to get some tip money for their effort – so we gave them some money, and they left to chase after another tourist boat.
For the next twenty minutes, we cruised through the village. The houses in the village were all built upon stilts and varied in size, but they all looked robust and solid. People were going about their business around their houses or were out on the water in boats. There was a lot of activity, which was fun to watch. Not only were there houses, but the village had everything the community from shops and businesses to schools and churches. Tourism has become an important part of the economy, so there are some bars, restaurants and guest houses to attract tourists. We made a stop at one such place to get some refreshments and use their toilets.
Soon it was time to head back to shore. It was nice to relax and enjoy the lake and the activities around on its waters along the way.
Planning your visit to Ganvié
How to Get There
- Closest City: Cotonou, the economic capital of Benin, is the nearest major city to Ganvié. It’s about a 30-minute drive to Abomey-Calavi, where boats to Ganvié depart.
- Transportation to Abomey-Calavi:
- Taxis: Shared or private taxis from Cotonou are widely available.
- Public Transportation: Minibuses also ply the route.
- Boat to Ganvié:
- Boats leave from the pier at Abomey-Calavi.
- Options include motorized pirogues and traditional wooden canoes. The trip to Ganvié takes about 20–30 minutes.
The best time to visit
- Dry Season (November to February): Pleasant weather with lower humidity and minimal rainfall.
- Wet Season (May to October): The lake’s water levels are higher, which can enhance the experience of navigating the village, but frequent rains may occur.
More to Explore
