Mexico City is a sprawling and electrifying capital where ancient Aztec heritage meets contemporary culture — a city of world-class museums and remarkable street food that rewards every curious traveller with unforgettable experiences at every turn.
Mexico: Mexico City – Xochimilco
🏙️ From Lakeside Marshes to Megapolis: The Extraordinary Origins of Mexico City
Mexico City today is, frankly, an overwhelming place — it sprawls across a high-altitude valley like something that got completely out of hand, which historically speaking is pretty much exactly what happened. Cast your mind back to around 100 AD and the picture couldn’t be more different. The Valley of Mexico was home to several indigenous tribes living around a vast, shallow lake known as Lago de Texcoco. Not the dramatic, shimmering inland sea you might imagine — more of a broad, marshy expanse that flooded regularly. Not much of it survives today, which given what was built on top of it, is perhaps understandable.
🦅 A City Built on a Prophecy — and a Lot of Mud
In 1325 AD, a wandering Mesoamerican people called the Mexicas decided they’d found their spot. The founding of Tenochtitlán was an ambitious undertaking. Rather than wait for dry land to conveniently appear, they dumped vast quantities of soil into the shallow lagoon, building up artificial islands linked by an elaborate network of canals. Essentially the Venice of the Americas, only considerably more industrious.
The whole enterprise was rooted in religious prophecy. The Mexicas believed their deity would reveal the location of their destined city through a very specific sign: an eagle perched on a cactus, eating a snake. When they spotted precisely this scene on a small island in Lake Texcoco, they set to work. You have to admire the commitment. Most of us struggle to build a garden shed on solid ground.
🏛️ The Spanish and the City Built on a City
The Mexicas — who became known as the Aztecs — built one of the largest cities in the pre-Columbian world, likely home to 200,000 people at its height, which made it considerably larger than most European cities of the period.
It all came to an abrupt end when the Spanish arrived. Hernán Cortés and his forces finally defeated the Aztec empire in 1521, after which they simply built a new Mexico City directly on top of the ruins of Tenochtitlán. Temples were demolished, rubble cleared, and a thoroughly European colonial capital rose from the wreckage. The Spanish were nothing if not practical, one grudgingly supposes.
Of the vast lake and canal system that once defined this entire valley, almost nothing remains. The centuries of draining, building, and general human interference have seen to that. Almost nothing, that is — because tucked away in the southern suburbs lies Xochimilco, which feels rather like stumbling across an oasis in the middle of a very large, very congested desert.
In recognition of its remarkable link to Mexico’s ancient cultural heritage, Xochimilco was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987 — and quite right too. It’s one of those rare places that actually deserves the label, rather than just having a nice car park and an entry fee.
Today you can tour the surviving canals aboard trajineras — traditional flat-bottomed boats, brightly painted and decorated with flowers and elaborate wooden archways spelling out passengers’ names, which sounds rather kitsch but is actually rather wonderful. The boats are propelled by guides using long poles, in much the same fashion as Venetian gondolas, though considerably more cheerful and with a better chance of someone alongside selling you a cold beer from another boat. On weekends the canals fill with locals enjoying family gatherings afloat, which gives the whole thing a wonderfully festive atmosphere that no amount of tourist brochure writing could adequately capture.
It is, in short, the closest you’ll get to understanding what this valley once looked like before somebody decided to build one of the world’s largest cities on top of it.
🚤 Xochimilco: Venice Without the Pigeons (or the Prices)
There are apparently around 200 trajineras — the brightly painted flat-bottomed boats that ply the canals of Xochimilco — which sounds perfectly manageable until you actually get there. The canals are narrow. Genuinely narrow. On a busy weekend it felt less like a tranquil waterway excursion and rather more like the I-405 through Los Angeles at rush hour, only with more marigolds and louder music.
🌿 Islands, Nurseries and People Who Actually Live Here
There are no roads in Xochimilco’s canal network — everything and everyone moves by water. The islands themselves, known as chinampas (the very same technique the Aztecs used to build Tenochtitlán, as it happens), are home to local families and the numerous plant nurseries for which the area has long been famous. They grow an impressive variety of flowers, vegetables and ornamental plants, all of which thrive in the rich, waterlogged soil. It’s essentially a floating garden centre, which sounds slightly absurd but is actually rather wonderful.
🌺 Floating Flower Sellers and a Very Familiar Plant
On busier days, flower sellers take to their own boats and weave between the trajineras, doing a brisk trade with tourists and locals alike. We were there just before Christmas, which meant one plant was absolutely everywhere — the poinsettia. Inescapable, gloriously red, and apparently just as ubiquitous in its country of origin as it is on every British office desk come December. Some things, it seems, transcend borders entirely.
🚤 Life on the Water — Xochimilco’s Floating Circus
We visited mid-week, which was pleasant enough, but apparently we’d missed the real spectacle entirely. At weekends, the locals descend on the canals in their thousands — families piling onto the trajineras with cool boxes, enormous speakers, and what one can only assume is an industrial quantity of beer. The whole thing sounds gloriously chaotic, and frankly exactly the sort of thing we’d normally try to avoid but somehow feel compelled to witness. Next time we come, we’ll make sure it’s a Saturday.
🌽 Floating Markets and Extremely Assertive Corn
The flower sellers drifting alongside us were charming enough, but Xochimilco’s waterways turned out to be something of a floating market. You cannot travel more than fifty metres without being cheerfully accosted by another vendor in another boat, paddling alongside with the quiet determination of someone who has done this ten thousand times and knows perfectly well you’re going to buy something eventually.
The most popular item on offer was corn cobs — elotes — and the variety on offer was genuinely impressive. They could be slathered, dusted, skewered, and seasoned in what seemed like a dozen different ways. Butter, mayonnaise, cheese, lime, and various powders of questionable provenance were all available. We, of course, went straight for the chilli peppers, because apparently we enjoy mild suffering on holiday.
🎵 Music on the Water
If music is more your thing, you’re in excellent hands. Floating mariachi bands will cheerfully pull alongside your trajinera and serenade you at considerable volume for a modest fee. Whether you actually wanted serenading at that particular moment is apparently beside the point — they’re coming whether you like it or not, and frankly they’re rather good at it.
If full-blown mariachi feels a touch frenetic — and after a few hours on the canals it very well might — there are quieter alternatives drifting about. Some boats carry marimbas on board, offering something altogether more gentle and melodic. The marimba, for those unfamiliar, is a large wooden percussion instrument that produces a warm, resonant sound — think xylophone, but considerably more sophisticated and far less associated with school music lessons.
Either way, the Xochimilco canals come with their own soundtrack, which is either delightful or maddening depending entirely on how you feel about unsolicited music with your lunch.
🛶 Floating Through Xochimilco: A Welcome Escape from the Urban Madness
After a few days being jostled about in the magnificent chaos of Mexico City — quite possibly the loudest, most relentlessly busy place we’ve ever pointed our shoes at — it was genuinely lovely to spend a quiet couple of hours drifting along the ancient canals of Xochimilco. On a midweek visit, the whole thing had a wonderfully peaceful quality about it. We were well aware that weekends tell an entirely different story, with the canals heaving with colourful trajineras, mariachi bands, and what we’re told is a fairly heroic consumption of beer. Honestly, that sounds rather good too, and we’d happily go back for it.
🗺️ Booking Through Wayak — and Meeting the Heroic Alan
As with every tour we took during our time in Mexico City, we booked through Wayak. They contract out to smaller local operators, which in our experience is no bad thing — the guides tend to know their patch extremely well. Our experience throughout was excellent, and Xochimilco was no exception.
Our guide for the day was Alan, who deserves a particular mention. The man was clearly under the weather — not in the vague, I-might-have-a-sniffle sense, but genuinely struggling — and yet he delivered an informed, enthusiastic and thoroughly engaging account of Xochimilco’s unique culture and history without so much as a word of complaint. Admirable dedication. Most people in that condition would be horizontal with the curtains drawn. Alan was on a boat, doing his job properly. Good man.
Planning Your Visit to Xochimilco
📍 Location
Xochimilco is a borough in the south-eastern part of Mexico City, approximately 20 kilometres from the city centre. It sits within the Valley of Mexico and is home to a network of ancient canals and chinampas — narrow, artificially constructed agricultural islands that date back to the Aztec civilisation. The area forms part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, designated in 1987 under the collective listing “Historic Centre of Mexico City and Xochimilco.” The main embarcaderos (boat jetties) from which visitors hire trajinera boats are located at Embarcadero Nuevo Nativitas, Embarcadero Cuemanco, and Embarcadero Fernando Celada.
🚇 How to Get There
By Metro and Light Rail: Take Metro Line 2 (Blue Line) from any central station to Tasqueña (the last stop). From there, transfer to the Tren Ligero (light rail) — a separate ticket is required — and ride to the final stop, Xochimilco Station. Journey time from the city centre is approximately one to one and a half hours. The Metro operates daily from 5am to midnight; the Tren Ligero runs from approximately 5am to 11pm.
By Car or Ride-hailing: Uber and taxis are widely available from central Mexico City neighbourhoods such as Roma and Condesa. Journey time is approximately 40 to 60 minutes, though this can vary considerably depending on traffic. Secure parking is available near the main embarcaderos, typically at a cost of around 100 pesos.
By Bus: Public buses and peseros (minibuses) serve Xochimilco from various points across the city, though routes can be complex for first-time visitors.
🌐 Website
xochimilco.cdmx.gob.mx
📞 Contact Telephone
+52 55 5334 0600 (extensions 3638 and 3730)
✉️ Email
🎟️ Entry Fees
There is no general admission fee to enter the Xochimilco area itself. The principal cost is the hire of a trajinera (traditional wooden canal boat), which is charged by the hour per boat — not per person. The government-regulated maximum rate is MX$750 per hour. Boats can hold up to 20 passengers, making group visits considerably more economical. Shorter or shared colectivo-style boats are also available for solo travellers or small groups at a reduced per-person rate. Additional costs may apply for food, drinks, mariachi musicians, and other vendors who approach boats along the canals.
🕗 Opening Times
The canals and embarcaderos are open every day of the year. Boat hire is available from 8:00am to 5:00pm. The wider Xochimilco area, including its markets and public spaces, is generally accessible from early morning until late evening.
Getting Around Mexico City
Mexico City (CDMX) is one of the world’s great megacities — sprawling, vibrant, and surprisingly easy to navigate once you know what you’re doing. With over 21 million people in the greater metropolitan area, transport options are plentiful, ranging from one of the world’s busiest metro systems to app-based taxis and even cable cars. Here’s everything you need to know about getting in and getting around.
✈️ Arriving: Know Your Airport
Mexico City is served by two international airports, and confusing them is a surprisingly common — and costly — mistake.
Benito Juárez International Airport (MEX/AICM) is the main hub, located just 13 km east of the historic centre. The vast majority of international flights land here. It has two terminals — Terminal 1 (older, busier) and Terminal 2 (more modern) — connected by a free shuttle and the Metro.
Felipe Ángeles International Airport (NLU/AIFA) is the newer, secondary airport, situated around 45 km north of the city centre in the State of Mexico. It primarily handles budget domestic carriers such as Volaris and VivaAerobus, along with some regional international routes. Always double-check your airport code before travelling — MEX and NLU are on opposite sides of the city and a transfer between them takes upwards of 90 minutes.
🚇 From MEX Airport into the City
By Metro: The cheapest option by far. Terminal 1 is directly connected to the Metro system (Line 5, Hangares station). A single ride costs around 5 pesos (roughly 20p). However, it’s not recommended if you’re travelling with large luggage or during rush hour — the carriages get extremely crowded.
By Metrobús: Line 4 connects both terminals to the city centre. It’s more comfortable than the Metro with luggage and costs 6 pesos per journey using a travel card.
By Uber or DiDi: The most practical option for most visitors. Download the app before you travel, and request your ride once you’re in the arrivals hall. Fares into central neighbourhoods such as Roma, Condesa, or Polanco typically range from 150–300 pesos (£6–£12), depending on traffic. Avoid accepting offers from drivers who approach you inside the terminal.
By Official Airport Taxi: Pre-paid taxi desks are located in the arrivals area of both terminals. Purchase your ticket at the booth before proceeding to the taxi rank. Fares are fixed by zone. This is safe and straightforward, though slightly pricier than app-based rides. Do not accept a ride from anyone who approaches you without a pre-paid ticket.
🚌 From AIFA Airport into the City
AIFA’s location makes it a longer journey into the city centre, so plan your time accordingly.
By Train (Tren Felipe Ángeles): Launched in April 2026, this new commuter rail service connects AIFA directly to Buenavista station in the north of Mexico City. The journey takes around 40–50 minutes, and from Buenavista you can connect to the Metro and Metrobús network. A promotional fare of 45 pesos applies for the airport leg. This is now the quickest and most reliable public transport option from AIFA.
By Bus (Aerofaro Shuttle): A shuttle service runs from AIFA arrivals to Buenavista station, from where you can connect to the wider Metro network. Budget approximately 90–120 minutes total travel time to central areas.
By Uber or DiDi: Available from AIFA, but journey times into the city centre can be 60–90 minutes or more depending on traffic. Expect fares of 400–600 pesos (£16–£24).
🚇 The Metro (Sistema de Transporte Colectivo)
The Metro is the backbone of public transport in Mexico City — one of the largest metro systems in the Americas with 12 lines and 195 stations spanning over 200 kilometres. It’s fast, efficient, and extraordinarily affordable at just 5 pesos (roughly 20p) per journey, regardless of distance.
Most major tourist attractions — the Zócalo, Chapultepec Park, Coyoacán, and the Palacio de Bellas Artes — are easily reachable by Metro. The system uses a combination of numbers and colour-coded lines, and each station has its own distinctive icon (helpful if you’re still finding your feet with Spanish).
Tips for visitors:
- Avoid rush hour (7:00–9:00 and 17:00–19:00) — carriages become extremely crowded and pickpocketing risk increases
- Keep valuables secure and avoid using your phone openly
- Look out for carriages reserved for women and children, marked with pink signs — these are particularly in force during peak hours
- Purchase a Tarjeta de Movilidad Integrada (MI Card) for 15 pesos; this rechargeable card works across the Metro, Metrobús, Cablebús, light rail, and trolleybus networks
🚌 Metrobús
The Metrobús is a network of articulated buses that run in dedicated lanes, making them faster than standard city buses. There are several lines covering key corridors, including the famous Avenida Insurgentes (Line 1 — one of the longest bus rapid transit routes in the world) and Avenida Reforma. A journey costs 6 pesos and requires a travel card to board.
The Metrobús is particularly useful for travelling along the main north–south and east–west axes of the city, and connects conveniently with the Metro at many interchange points. Line 4 also serves both terminals at Benito Juárez Airport.
🚡 Cablebús (Cable Car)
One of Mexico City’s most distinctive and photogenic forms of transport, the Cablebús is a network of cable car lines operating in the hillier outskirts of the city. There are currently three lines, primarily serving working-class neighbourhoods in the east and south that have limited Metro access.
While not a practical daily commuter option for most visitors staying in central neighbourhoods, taking a ride on the Cablebús — particularly Line 1 in Iztapalapa — offers spectacular panoramic views across the city and a glimpse of everyday life beyond the tourist trail. Fares are 7 pesos with a travel card.
📱 Ride-Hailing Apps: Uber, DiDi & Cabify
For many visitors, app-based rides represent the sweet spot between safety, convenience, and value. Uber is the most widely used and reliable, with a large fleet and consistent pricing. DiDi (a Chinese-owned competitor) often undercuts Uber on price and is widely available. Cabify is another reputable option, particularly favoured for longer journeys.
All three apps show you the route, the fare, and the driver’s details before you confirm — a significant safety advantage over hailing a taxi on the street. You’ll need mobile data, so consider purchasing a local SIM card or setting up an eSIM before or upon arrival.
App-based rides are especially recommended for: journeys after dark, trips to and from bus terminals or the airport with luggage, and any destination not conveniently served by the Metro.
🌐 uber.com | didiglobal.com | cabify.com
🚕 Taxis
Mexico City has one of the largest taxi fleets in the world, and the iconic pink-and-white cabs are a familiar sight on every street. However, visitors should exercise caution.
Do not hail taxis from the street. Unofficial taxis — known colloquially as “piratas” — can pose safety risks and overcharge passengers.
Sitio taxis (taxis from authorised stands) are the recommended on-street option. They are registered, carry fixed fares, and can be found at airports, hotels, shopping centres, and major tourist sites. You can also ask your hotel or restaurant to call a registered taxi for you.
For most practical purposes, using Uber or DiDi is safer and simpler than locating a trustworthy sitio taxi.
🚲 Ecobici (Bike Share)
For visitors staying in central neighbourhoods — Roma, Condesa, Polanco, Juárez, or Centro Histórico — Ecobici is a genuinely excellent way to cover short distances without sitting in traffic. The network has over 689 stations and nearly 10,000 bikes, making it one of the most extensive bike-share systems in the Americas.
Rides of up to 45 minutes are included in the subscription fee, and you can return the bike to any station. Day passes start at around $5 USD (approximately £4), with three-day and weekly options also available. Registration is done via the app or website — no passport or lengthy paperwork required at modern stations, just a credit card. The MI Card also links to your Ecobici account.
Sundays are a particularly good day to cycle — Avenida Reforma is closed to traffic and given over entirely to cyclists and pedestrians.
🚌 Long-Distance Buses (for Day Trips & Onward Travel)
If you’re planning to visit nearby cities — Puebla, Oaxaca, Guadalajara, or Teotihuacán — Mexico City’s long-distance bus network is excellent. The main terminals are:
- TAPO (Terminal de Autobuses de Pasajeros de Oriente) — east of the city, served by Metro Line 1 (San Lázaro station). Good for Puebla, Oaxaca, and the Gulf Coast.
- Terminal Central del Norte — north of the city, reached via Metro Line 5. Good for Guadalajara, Querétaro, and the northern states.
- Terminal Poniente — west of the city (Metro Line 1, Observatorio station). Good for Toluca and western destinations.
ADO is the premier intercity bus operator, offering comfortable, air-conditioned coaches with allocated seating. Booking online in advance is recommended for popular routes.
🚶 Walking
Do not overlook the simplest option. Several of Mexico City’s best neighbourhoods reward leisurely exploration on foot. Roma Norte and Roma Sur, Condesa, Centro Histórico, Coyoacán, Polanco, and San Ángel are all walkable districts with plenty to see at street level. The altitude (2,240 metres above sea level) may leave you slightly breathless at first — take it steadily on your first day or two.
🗺️ Useful Apps for Getting Around
- Google Maps — reliable for Metro, Metrobús, and walking directions
- Moovit — excellent for real-time public transport updates and route planning
- Metro CDMX — detailed Metro map, station information, and journey times
- Uber / DiDi / Cabify — essential for ride-hailing
- Ecobici — for bike-share planning and unlocking bikes
💳 The MI Card (Tarjeta de Movilidad Integrada)
If you plan to use public transport more than once or twice, the MI Card is well worth picking up. It costs just 15 pesos and can be topped up with credit to use across the Metro, Metrobús, Cablebús, light rail, and trolleybus networks. It also links to the Ecobici bike-share system. Cards are available at Metro stations and Metrobús stops throughout the city. There is a maximum balance of 500 pesos on the card at any one time.
Mexico City’s transport network is, in truth, one of its great assets — vast, affordable, and remarkably well-connected for a city of its size. With a little planning and the right apps on your phone, getting around is far less daunting than the map might initially suggest.
The best time to visit Mexico City
🌸 Spring – Dry Season (March to May)
Spring is widely regarded as the finest time to visit Mexico City. The rainy season has not yet arrived, temperatures are pleasantly warm, and the city buzzes with cultural energy. Daytime highs hover between 22°C and 26°C, with cool evenings that rarely dip below 10°C. Skies are predominantly clear, making it ideal for exploring open-air sites such as Teotihuacán, the Zócalo, and Chapultepec Park.
March and April bring Semana Santa (Holy Week), one of Mexico’s most important religious observances, when the city fills with processions and festivities. Crowds are noticeable but not overwhelming outside of the Easter weekend peak. May sees temperatures climbing and the humidity building ahead of the summer rains — visit early in the month for the best of the season.
What to pack: Lightweight layers, a light jacket for evenings, breathable walking shoes, sunscreen, sunglasses, and a reusable water bottle. A compact umbrella is useful from late April.
⛈️ Summer – Wet Season (June to August)
Summer brings the rainy season, though this need not be a deterrent. Rain typically falls in concentrated afternoon and evening downpours lasting one to two hours, leaving mornings largely clear and pleasant. Temperatures remain mild — generally 18°C to 24°C — and the city’s parks and surrounding valleys turn a vivid green. Hotel rates are often lower, and the city’s cultural calendar remains full, with exhibitions, concerts, and street festivals running throughout the season.
The main inconvenience is the afternoon rain, which can cause traffic disruption and occasional flooding in low-lying areas. Planning outdoor activities for the morning is the sensible approach. July and August also coincide with school holidays in Mexico, so family-orientated attractions tend to be busier.
What to pack: A compact waterproof jacket or poncho, quick-dry clothing, waterproof footwear or sandals, light layers, insect repellent, and a small daypack with a dry bag for electronics.
🍂 Autumn – Transition Season (September to November)
Autumn is one of the most atmospheric and culturally rewarding times to visit. September marks the beginning of the end of the rainy season, with rainfall gradually tapering through October and drying considerably by November. Temperatures settle between 15°C and 22°C — cooler than summer but still comfortable during the day.
November is the undoubted highlight of the autumn season. Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead), celebrated on 1 and 2 November, transforms Mexico City into a spectacle of marigold-draped altars, candlelit processions, and vibrant public gatherings. The Zócalo and Mixquic are especially dramatic. Tourist numbers are rising but the city retains a more relaxed atmosphere compared with peak winter months.
What to pack: A warm layer or light wool jumper, a waterproof jacket for early September, comfortable walking shoes, festival-appropriate clothing for Día de Muertos, and a camera or smartphone with ample storage.
❄️ Winter – Dry Season (December to February)
Winter is the driest period in Mexico City and brings some of the clearest skies of the year, making it excellent for photography and open-air excursions. Daytime temperatures range from around 18°C to 20°C, though cold fronts known as nortes can push overnight temperatures close to or below 5°C, particularly in January and February.
December is the busiest and most festive month, centred on Las Posadas (16–24 December), Christmas, and New Year. The city is richly decorated, markets are in full swing, and the atmosphere is convivial. January and February are considerably quieter, representing something of a hidden gem — dry, clear, and calm, without the holiday crowds.
What to pack: A medium-weight coat or insulated jacket, warm layers for evenings and early mornings, a scarf, comfortable smart-casual clothing for festive events, and good walking shoes or boots.
📊 Season at a Glance
✅ Overall Best Time to Visit
The optimum time to visit Mexico City is from late October through to early May, taking in the tail end of autumn and the full dry season. Within that window, November stands out for its extraordinary cultural richness — Día de Muertos is a once-in-a-lifetime experience — whilst March and April offer the finest combination of weather, manageable crowds, and vibrant street life. Travellers seeking quieter streets and crisp clear skies will find January and February particularly rewarding. Mexico City rewards visits at almost any time of year given its altitude, which moderates temperatures year-round, but avoiding the peak of the wet season in June and July will make outdoor exploration considerably more enjoyable.
Vegan Dining in Mexico City
Mexico City has transformed into one of Latin America’s most exciting destinations for plant-based eating. From buzzing street-food carts in Roma Norte to cosy neighbourhood cafés, the city offers an extraordinary range of fully vegan options that rival — and often surpass — their meat-based counterparts.
🌮 Por Siempre Vegana Taquería — Food Cart & Restaurant
One of the most famous names in Mexico City’s vegan scene, Por Siempre Vegana has built a devoted following for its authentic Mexican street tacos made entirely from plants. The menu is extensive, featuring classics such as al pastor, barbacoa, chicharrón, suadero, and bistek — all crafted from soya, seitan, or wheat protein. Sweet treats like cupcakes and doughnuts round off the offering. The original food cart operates on a pavement in Roma Norte and gets very busy at peak times, with queues sometimes stretching to 30 minutes. A sit-down taquería location on Coahuila opened subsequently.
- Location: Food cart: Calle Manzanillo 18, Roma Norte, Cuauhtémoc, 06700 CDMX. Taquería: Coahuila 169, Roma Norte, Cuauhtémoc, 06700 CDMX
- Website: porsiempreveganataqueria.com (best reached via Instagram: @porsiempreveganataqueria)
- Phone: +52 55 6116 6266
- Opening hours:
- Food cart: Mon–Sat 1:00 pm – 11:00 pm
- Taquería: Mon–Sat 2:00 pm – midnight; Sun closed
🌸 La Pitahaya Vegana — Restaurant
La Pitahaya Vegana is instantly recognisable for its iconic pink tortillas, tinted with beetroot and chard, which have made it something of a social media sensation. The menu goes far beyond aesthetics, however — dishes such as Baja tacos, mole mixteco, enfrijoladas, enchiladas, and a pink tofu burger are all prepared with fresh organic ingredients and a genuine commitment to sustainability (the kitchen composts organic waste and recycles inorganics). The bilingual menu and friendly, English-speaking staff make it welcoming to international visitors, and delivery across Mexico City is available. The restaurant is small, so arrive early to secure a seat.
- Location: Calle Querétaro 90, Roma Norte, Cuauhtémoc, 06700 CDMX (second location: Miguel A. de Quevedo 353, Mercado Roma Coyoacán)
- Website: lapitahayavegana.mx
- Phone: +52 55 3902 7792
- Opening hours (Roma Norte):
- Mon, Wed–Fri: 2:00 pm – 9:00 pm
- Sat–Sun: 11:00 am – 9:00 pm
- Closed Tuesday
🍔 Forever Vegano — Restaurant
Forever Vegano (also known simply as “Forever”) is a well-established all-vegan restaurant in Roma Norte with a boho, psychedelic-chic aesthetic that makes it popular for brunch, dates, and casual dinners alike. The menu takes a creative, plant-based approach to Mexican and fusion cooking — standout dishes include the Forever burger made from beans, raw coastal ceviche with coconut, mushroom aguachile, tacos al pastor with marinated mushrooms, and vegan pizza. Cocktails and craft beverages complement the food nicely. A second branch is located in the Polanco neighbourhood. The restaurant is dog-friendly and offers outdoor dining.
- Location: Calle Guanajuato 54, esquina Mérida, Roma Norte, Cuauhtémoc, 06700 CDMX
- Website: forevervegano.com
- Phone: +52 55 6726 0975
- Opening hours:
- Mon–Sat: 9:00 am – 11:00 pm
- Sun: 9:00 am – 6:00 pm
☕ Café Vegetal — Café
Café Vegetal is a much-loved, fully vegan café with a warm, cosy atmosphere perfect for a slow breakfast or a working lunch. Its menu spans sweet and savoury ground — expect pancakes, chilaquiles, scrambled tofu, molletes, cinnamon rolls, a wide selection of cakes, and a thoughtfully curated drinks list featuring organic coffee, matcha, almond smoothies, and kombucha. The interiors — wooden furniture, lush greenery — create an inviting neighbourhood feel. Two locations serve the city: one in Narvarte Poniente and one in Coyoacán, not far from the Frida Kahlo Museum. The café is pet-friendly and offers outdoor seating.
- Location:
- Narvarte: Enrique Rébsamen 364, Narvarte Poniente, Benito Juárez, 03020 CDMX
- Coyoacán: Av. Río Churubusco 310, local C, Del Carmen, Coyoacán, 04100 CDMX
- Website: cafevegetal.com
- Phone: Not publicly listed — contact via Instagram @cafevegetalmx
- Opening hours:
- Tue–Sun: 9:00 am – 10:00 pm
- Closed Monday
🐟 Paxil – Plant Based Seafood — Food Cart
Paxil is one of the most talked-about and original vegan food stalls in Mexico City, drawing visitors from around the world for its entirely plant-based take on Mexican coastal seafood cuisine. The owner has developed remarkable techniques to recreate the flavours and textures of the sea — tomato becomes raw tuna, various mushrooms stand in for fish, and the results are genuinely astonishing. The menu includes fish tacos, tostadas with “vegatún,” the signature Paxil taco, the Takeshi (a sushi-inspired dish with nori, rice and tamarind sauce), zarandeado, ceviche, and vegan fish and chips. The bright blue and white stall is hard to miss, and queues form quickly at weekends.
- Location: Orizaba 83 (4th stall), Roma Norte, Cuauhtémoc, 06700 CDMX
- Website: Instagram: @paxil.plantbasedseafood (no standalone website)
- Phone: +52 55 3035 5144
- Opening hours:
- Mon, Wed–Sun: 1:30 pm – 7:00 pm
- Closed Tuesday
🌯 María Bonita Veganos — Food Cart
María Bonita Veganos is a beloved vegan street-food stall in Roma Norte, celebrated for its hearty, affordable, and deeply flavourful food. The menu is a highlight reel of Mexican street classics — massive burritos, tortas (particularly the crispy milanesa torta, a firm favourite), gringas, tacos, hamburgers, and hot dogs, all made with alt-meat substitutes. Daily rotating lunch specials offer a soup, main, salad, and drink at very reasonable prices. The portions are generous, the staff are friendly, and there is a small counter where you can eat on the spot, or you can take your food to nearby Plaza Río de Janeiro.
- Location: Calle Durango 65, Roma Norte, Cuauhtémoc, 06700 CDMX
- Website: Instagram: @mariabonita.veganos (no standalone website)
- Phone: +52 55 8863 5880
- Opening hours:
- Daily: 12:00 pm – 6:00 pm (hours may vary — check Instagram for upd
Where to stay in Mexico City
1. City Centro Cuidad de Mexico
City Centro by Marriott Ciudad de México sits in the historic heart of Mexico City, on Republica de Uruguay in the Centro district. The building has real heritage credentials — it was designed by the Mariscal brothers, the same architects behind the Palacio de Bellas Artes, and the original ceilings, floors and one of the city’s oldest lifts are still in place. The hotel has 44 rooms, an outdoor rooftop pool, a gym, a restaurant and a bar. Madero Street and the Torre Latinoamericana are a short walk away, and Benito Juárez International Airport is around ten minutes by car. It is a solid, characterful mid-range option for travellers who want to be close to the main sights without staying in a bland business hotel.
2. Hotel Villa Condesa
Hotel Villa Condesa is a small boutique hotel with 15 rooms, set in a converted mansion in Roma Norte, one of Mexico City’s most liveable neighbourhoods. The area is walkable, lined with tree-shaded streets, independent restaurants and cafés, and is well connected by metro. Rooms are individually decorated with classic touches — wooden floors, sash windows — and the better ones include balconies overlooking the interior courtyard. Breakfast is included and well regarded by guests. There is an on-site restaurant serving Mexican and international dishes, a rooftop terrace, a garden, and bike rental for those who want to explore the city under their own steam. Staff consistently receive strong reviews for being attentive and helpful. Chapultepec Park and Paseo de la Reforma are both within easy reach on foot.
3. Hotel MX Roma
Hotel MX Roma sits on Calle Mérida 81 in Roma Norte, one of Mexico City’s most appealing neighbourhoods for eating, drinking, and general wandering. Part of the Wyndham Trademark Collection, it is a four-star, smoke-free property with 46 air-conditioned rooms, a rooftop terrace, a gym, and a squash court. Free breakfast and Wi-Fi are included, and there is paid parking on site. The location earns consistently high marks from guests — Insurgentes metro station is a short walk away, and the restaurant Rosetta is practically on the doorstep. It is not a large or lavish hotel, but as a well-priced, well-placed base for exploring the city, it does the job reliably well..
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