Czech Republic: Prague – U Páva Hotel
🏨 Where We Stayed: U Páva — At the Peacock, Malá Strana
When it came to deciding where to stay in Prague, we had one clear rule: we wanted to be close to the centre and walk everywhere. I’m not sure we had much choice, mind you — the public transport, while perfectly good, operates on a system of tickets and zones that would baffle a cryptographer. Walking seemed the sensible option.
After the usual ritual of trawling through hotel booking websites for longer than was strictly healthy, I settled on U Páva — which translates from Czech as At the Peacock. And yes, before you ask, there is a peacock painted above the entrance. The hotel sits right in the heart of Malá Strana — or Lesser Town — one of Prague’s most beautifully preserved historic districts, perched on the left bank of the Vltava River beneath the brooding shadow of Prague Castle. Malá Strana developed primarily during the 16th and 17th centuries and is crammed with Baroque palaces, garden courtyards, cobbled lanes and the kind of churches that make you feel vaguely guilty just walking past them. From the hotel, the surrounding markets, museums and historic buildings were all on our doorstep. The Old Town was just a 15-minute stroll across the iconic Charles Bridge — itself begun in 1357 under Emperor Charles IV and lined with 30 Baroque statues added between 1683 and 1714 — and Prague Castle, the largest ancient castle complex in the world, was a mere 10-minute walk uphill. Admittedly, that hill is not to be dismissed lightly at our age.
U Páva is an intimate four-star hotel tucked right next to Charles Bridge, offering 26 rooms in a historical building with parts dating back to the late 15th century. It is unapologetically romantic in character, which either charms you enormously or makes you feel slightly embarrassed, depending on your disposition. Breakfast was simple but perfectly decent — cheeses, cold meats, scrambled eggs, fruit, cereals and good coffee — the sort of spread that doesn’t cause a fuss but does the job properly. There was no evening restaurant on site, but frankly we weren’t bothered. Just across the square was an excellent bakery, and further down the road we found a wonderfully rustic bar serving various Czech goulash dishes that were, without exaggeration, absolutely delicious.
🏛️ A Building That Takes Its History Seriously
The hotel comprises both older and newer buildings, the oldest section dating to 1726 — which, to put it in context, was the year when George I was still on the British throne and nobody had yet invented anything particularly useful. The overall aesthetic leans heavily into local history, and it does so without any apparent embarrassment whatsoever. Wooden ships and stone statues are dotted about the public areas. Several rooms feature Renaissance murals alongside grandfather clocks, nutwood antique furnishings, crystal chandeliers and original oil paintings. It is, in short, a building that has absolutely committed to the bit.
Some may find it all a touch theatrical. Others — and we were firmly in this camp — will find the whole time-warp romance of it rather wonderful.
🛏️ The Rooms — Cosy, Characterful, and Occasionally a Bit Cave-Like
The rooms at U Páva vary considerably in size and layout, which is exactly what you’d expect from a building that has been added to, knocked about and repurposed over several centuries. No two are quite identical, and that is largely part of the charm — though it does mean it’s worth paying attention to what you’re booking, rather than simply grabbing the cheapest option and hoping for the best. Ask me how I know.
What they all share is a genuinely warm, old-fashioned feel. Hand-made stained glass windows filter the light in the most agreeable way, and ceilings are either beamed or painted — sometimes both — in a manner that suggests someone long ago cared very much about the details. All rooms come with radios, minibars and satellite televisions, which is reassuring confirmation that you haven’t actually travelled back to the 15th century, whatever the décor might suggest. Bathrooms are a decent size, with tubs, bidets and bathrobes — the full complement of civilised comforts.
That said, a small word of warning: some of the standard rooms on the lower floors can feel a little dark and slightly airless, particularly if you’re used to the sort of light-filled, minimalist hotel room that Scandinavians seem to build exclusively. The upper floors, which come at a higher price, offer noticeably better natural light and are worth the extra outlay if your budget stretches to it. Ours did — just — and we were glad of it.
Hotel U Páva, Prague
Hotel U Páva (meaning “At the Peacock”) is a four-star, family-run boutique hotel in the Malá Strana district of Prague. The hotel occupies a historic building close to Charles Bridge and Kampa Island, and some rooms have direct views of Prague Castle. There are 32 rooms in total, each individually furnished with period pieces and original paintings by Czech academic painter Jiří Anderle. Free buffet breakfast is included, and the hotel has a sauna, Jacuzzi, and spa services on site. The atmosphere is quiet and the location puts guests within easy walking distance of the city’s main sights. It is a solid, well-reviewed choice for those who want a central base without staying in a large chain hotel.
🏨 Planning Your Stay at Hotel U Páva
- Address: U Lužického semináře 32, Praha 1, 118 00, Malá Strana, Prague, Czech Republic
- Getting there: The nearest metro station is Malostranská (Line A, green), about a 5-minute walk. Trams stop at Malostranské náměstí, roughly 0.5 km away. From Václav Havel Airport, allow around 23 minutes by taxi or airport transfer (the hotel can arrange this in advance).
- Website: hotel-upava.cz
- Telephone: +420 257 533 573
- Approximate costs: Standard double rooms start from around £75–£90 per night; deluxe rooms with castle views range from approximately £130–£180 per night. Prices include breakfast and VAT. Rates vary by season, with summer and Christmas periods commanding higher prices.
Planning Your Visit to Prague
🏙️ Prague — Planning Your Visit
Prague, known to locals as Praha, stands as the capital of the Czech Republic and ranks among Europe’s most captivating cities. Spanning both banks of the Vltava River, it earns its nickname “the City of a Hundred Spires” through a skyline punctuated by Gothic towers, Baroque domes, and Romanesque turrets. Almost uniquely among Central European capitals, Prague escapes the large-scale bombing of the last century’s wars, leaving its historic centre astonishingly intact and earning it UNESCO World Heritage status. It is a city where medieval lanes open onto grand squares, centuries-old breweries still fill their cellars, and the sheer density of architectural beauty can feel genuinely overwhelming.
📍 Location
Prague sits in the heart of Bohemia, in the western part of the Czech Republic, at roughly the geographical centre of Europe. The city divides naturally along the Vltava, with the historic castle quarter and Malá Strana (Lesser Town) on the left bank, and the Old Town, New Town, and Jewish Quarter on the right. The historic centre is compact enough to explore largely on foot, and most of the major landmarks cluster within a manageable area.
🗺️ Key Districts to Know
Staré Město (Old Town) is where most first-time visitors spend the majority of their time, and for good reason. Old Town Square, dating back to the 12th century, is home to the celebrated Astronomical Clock, the Gothic Týn Church, and a host of elegant façades. The Jewish Quarter (Josefov), with its collection of synagogues and haunting old cemetery, lies on the northern edge of the Old Town and represents one of the finest preserved Jewish heritage sites in Europe.
Malá Strana (Lesser Town) sits on the western bank below Prague Castle, connected to the Old Town by the famous Charles Bridge. Despite its name, it is every bit as dramatic as the Old Town, with Baroque palaces, hidden walled gardens, and the magnificent Church of St Nicholas at its heart. The area rewards unhurried exploration, particularly the quieter streets away from the main tourist routes.
Hradčany (Castle District) crowns the hill above Malá Strana. Prague Castle itself is the largest ancient castle complex in the world, housing St Vitus Cathedral, the Royal Palace, and St George’s Basilica. The views down across the city from here are among the finest in Europe.
Nové Město (New Town), despite the name, was founded in 1348. Wenceslas Square, a broad boulevard lined with shops and cafés, forms its main artery and has been the backdrop for some of the most significant moments in Czech history, including the Velvet Revolution of 1989.
Vinohrady and Karlín lie beyond the historic centre and offer a more residential, local atmosphere. Vinohrady in particular has a strong independent restaurant and café scene, quieter streets of Art Nouveau apartment buildings, and good transport connections to the centre — all at lower prices than the tourist heartland.
✈️ Getting There
By air — Prague is served by Václav Havel Airport, located approximately 17 kilometres northwest of the city centre. The airport has two main passenger terminals: Terminal 1 handles flights from outside the Schengen Area, and Terminal 2 handles flights from within it. There is no direct metro or rail link from the airport into the centre. The most straightforward option is the Airport Express bus, which runs directly to Prague’s main railway station (Praha hlavní nádraží) every 30 minutes throughout the day, with a journey time of around 35 minutes. The standard public bus network also connects the airport to the nearest metro stations. Taxis and ride-hailing apps such as Bolt and Uber operate from the airport and are a reliable, metered alternative.
By rail — Prague’s main railway station (Praha hlavní nádraží) is a handsome Art Nouveau building in the New Town and sits on major international rail corridors. Direct trains connect Prague to Vienna, Berlin, Budapest, and Amsterdam, among other European cities, making it an excellent stop on a wider European rail journey.
By coach — Long-distance coach services, including Flixbus and RegioJet, link Prague to dozens of European cities. The main coach terminal is Florenc, close to the city centre and connected directly to the metro.
By car — Prague is reachable by motorway from several directions and sits on major European road corridors. However, driving into the historic centre is actively discouraged. Much of the centre is pedestrianised or heavily restricted, parking is scarce and expensive, and the public transport system is excellent. If arriving by car, it makes sense to use a park-and-ride facility on the outskirts and continue by public transport.
💰 Money
The Czech Republic is a member of the European Union but has not adopted the euro. The currency is the Czech koruna (CZK). While card payments are widely accepted in hotels, restaurants, and larger shops, smaller venues, market stalls, and some public transport ticket machines still prefer cash. It is sensible to carry a modest supply of koruna at all times. ATMs are plentiful throughout the city. Currency exchange offices vary considerably in their rates and charges — private exchange bureaux on tourist routes are notorious for deceptive rates and high hidden fees. The most reliable exchange rates come from ATMs or bank branches. Always check the rate being offered before any transaction.
🍺 Food and Drink
Czech cuisine is hearty and rooted in Central European tradition. Staples include svíčková (slow-braised beef sirloin in cream sauce, served with bread dumplings), goulash, roast pork with sauerkraut and dumplings, and trdelník (a sweet pastry, though this is more a tourist invention than a traditional Czech staple). For an honest meal at a fair price, venturing even a few streets away from the main tourist trail makes a significant difference.
Beer is central to Czech culture and an essential part of any visit. Pilsner Urquell, Budvar, and Kozel are among the most celebrated local brews, and Prague’s pubs (pivnice) serve some of the finest draught beer on the continent, often at prices that seem remarkably low by Western European standards. The country also produces wine, particularly in the Moravian region in the east, with varieties including Frankovka and Müller-Thurgau worth seeking out.
Tipping is customary. Rounding up the bill or leaving around 10–15% for good service is the norm.
Best Time to Visit the Czech Republic
The Czech Republic is a year-round destination, but the experience varies considerably depending on where you go and when. From the cobbled lanes of Prague to the vineyard slopes of Moravia, from the spa colonnades of Karlovy Vary to the sandstone pinnacles of Bohemian Switzerland, each region has its own rhythm. Understanding these rhythms will help you get far more out of your visit.
🗺️ Prague and Central Bohemia
Spring (March–May) Prague in spring is genuinely lovely. Cherry blossom fills the parks from late March, and the city shakes off its winter quiet before the summer crowds arrive. April and May bring mild temperatures, longer days, and a palpable sense of revival. You will still need a warm layer in March, but by May the city is at its most photogenic and walkable. Easter weekend draws Czech visitors from across the country, so book accommodation early if travelling then.
Summer (June–August) Summer is Prague’s busiest season, and it shows. Charles Bridge can feel impossibly crowded by mid-morning, queues for attractions stretch long, and accommodation prices peak. That said, the city is alive with outdoor concerts, river cruises, beer gardens, and festivals. If you enjoy urban energy and don’t mind the throng, summer works well — just arrive at major sights before 9 am.
Autumn (September–October) This is arguably Prague’s finest season. The tourist surge ebbs sharply after August, yet the weather remains mild and often sunny well into October. The city’s red-roofed skyline glows against autumn foliage; the light is warmer and softer. September is ideal for walking, photography, and dining al fresco. November turns greyer and cooler, but brings a reflective, literary atmosphere to the old lanes.
Winter (November–February) Prague’s Christmas markets, centred on Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square, are among the finest in Central Europe and draw large crowds from late November through early January. Ice-skating rinks appear around the city, mulled wine flows freely, and the baroque architecture looks extraordinary under a dusting of snow. January and February are the quietest months of the year — good for budget travellers and those who prefer their sightseeing crowd-free, though the days are short and temperatures regularly drop below freezing.
🏰 South Bohemia — Český Krumlov and the Šumava
Spring (March–May) The medieval town of Český Krumlov and the forested Šumava highlands are delightful in spring. Wildflowers carpet the hillsides, the Vltava runs high and fast, and the tourist coaches have not yet arrived in force. May is particularly pleasant: warm enough for outdoor exploration, quiet enough to feel the town rather than just photograph it.
Summer (June–August) South Bohemia’s Baroque Theatre Festival and various castle events make summer culturally rich, and the warm weather suits kayaking and cycling along the Vltava. Český Krumlov does become congested in July and August; arriving in the evening and staying overnight, after day-trippers have departed, transforms the experience entirely.
Autumn (September–October) Autumn is superb here. The surrounding forests ignite with colour, the castle’s terraced gardens glow gold, and the town breathes again. September and October are the best months to visit South Bohemia: comfortable temperatures, brilliant light, and almost no queues.
Winter (November–February) Český Krumlov under snow is achingly beautiful but quiet to the point of emptiness. Many restaurants and guesthouses close or operate reduced hours. The Šumava ski areas provide modest cross-country skiing, but this region is essentially off-season from December through February unless you are seeking solitude.
💆 West Bohemia — Karlovy Vary and the Spa Triangle
Spring (March–May) The spa season opens properly in April. Karlovy Vary, Mariánské Lázně, and Františkovy Lázně are all at their best in late spring when the colonnades are busy, the curative springs are flowing, and the surrounding beech forests are a fresh, vivid green. May combines comfortable walking temperatures with a lively but manageable visitor crowd.
Summer (June–August) The Karlovy Vary International Film Festival, held each July, is the region’s cultural highlight and brings an entirely different energy to the town — glamorous, cosmopolitan, and busy. Beyond festival week, summer is warm and pleasant for walking in the hills above the valley. The spas operate at full capacity; booking well ahead is essential.
Autumn (September–November) Autumn brings a gentle, reflective mood to the spa towns. Crowds thin considerably, the forests above Karlovy Vary turn gold and copper, and the atmosphere in the colonnades becomes more authentically curative — Czech visitors on longer health stays rather than passing tourists. Prices drop and rooms are easy to find.
Winter (December–February) The spa towns stay open through winter and have a loyal clientele seeking thermal treatments during the colder months. Atmosphere is subdued and the surroundings are often misty or snowy, which has its own charm. It is a genuinely restful time to visit if thermal bathing rather than sightseeing is your priority.
🏔️ North Bohemia — Bohemian Switzerland and the Elbe Sandstone Highlands
Spring (March–May) The hiking season opens cautiously in spring. March can still bring snow at higher elevations, but April sees the trails clearing and the sandstone formations emerging dramatically from budding woodland. By May, conditions are ideal for walking, and the gorges and viewpoints of Bohemian Switzerland National Park are largely crowd-free.
Summer (June–August) Summer is the prime season for this region. Long daylight hours, warm temperatures, and fully open trails make it perfect for hiking, cycling, and boat trips through the canyons. The Pravčická Gate, the largest natural rock arch in Central Europe, is best visited early morning in summer to avoid the peak crowds of late morning. The fresh air and dramatic scenery make this one of the most rewarding outdoor destinations in the country.
Autumn (September–October) The sandstone gorges take on a moody, romantic quality in autumn, with mist clinging to the rock formations at dawn and the surrounding forests turning amber. September is still warm enough for comfortable hiking; October is cooler but the light can be extraordinarily dramatic. Trail crowds thin noticeably.
Winter (November–February) Snow transforms the landscape beautifully but significantly limits trail access. Some viewpoints remain reachable, but many gorge paths become icy and hazardous. This is a region best appreciated in the warmer months.
🍷 Moravia — Brno, Olomouc, and the Wine Country
Spring (March–May) Moravia wakes slowly in spring. Brno and Olomouc are lively university cities that retain energy year-round, but the surrounding vineyard countryside is at its most evocative from April onwards, when the vines leaf out and the rolling Palava hills come alive with blossom. May brings a rush of cycling tourism along the Greenways cycle routes.
Summer (June–August) Summer in Moravia is warm and sociable. Brno’s café terraces fill, outdoor music festivals dot the calendar, and the wine towns of Mikulov and Znojmo hold medieval and wine-themed events. The Znojmo Historical Festival in August is a spectacular affair of jousting and period costume. Cycling through the vineyards in warm sunshine is a genuine pleasure.
Autumn (September–October) Moravia’s wine harvest season is its absolute peak. The vendimia celebrations run through September and October in villages across the South Moravian wine region — barrels are rolled out, traditional costumes appear, and local wine flows at prices that seem barely credible. The landscape is breathtaking, the food is excellent, and the sense of a living local culture is palpable. This is unquestionably the best season to visit Moravia.
Winter (November–February) Brno and Olomouc both hold excellent Advent and Christmas markets that rival Prague’s in quality if not in scale. The wine country quietens dramatically, but the cellar wine bars (sklepní vinárny) in Mikulov and Valtice remain open and wonderfully atmospheric. January and February are very quiet, very cold, and best suited to those seeking an authentic, unhurried Moravian experience.
🦇 The Moravian Karst and Bohemian-Moravian Highlands
Spring (April–May) The cave systems of the Moravian Karst — including Punkva Cave and the dramatic Macocha Abyss — are open year-round, but spring brings the bonus of wildflower meadows, rushing underground rivers fed by snowmelt, and quiet access. April and May are ideal for combining cave visits with walking the wooded plateaux above.
Summer (June–August) Summer is the best all-round season for this region. The caves are fully operational, the abyss viewpoints are easily accessible, and the broader Bohemian-Moravian Highlands offer wonderful, gentle walking and cycling through a landscape of meadows, fishponds, and small baroque towns. Days are long and weather reliable.
Autumn (September–October) Cool, clear autumn days are excellent for walking the highlands and the gorge paths above the Macocha. Visitor numbers to the caves drop noticeably, making access easier. The highlands are undervisited at any time of year; in autumn they feel almost entirely your own.
Winter (November–March) Some cave sections close or operate on a very restricted timetable; access to the gorge floor can be icy. The highlands can be attractively snow-covered for cross-country skiing, but this remains a niche winter destination.
🏭 Silesia — Ostrava and Opava
Spring (March–May) Silesia is the Czech Republic’s most underrated region, and spring is a good time to explore its industrial heritage, Baroque architecture, and emerging cultural scene without any tourist pressure whatsoever. Ostrava’s mining district, now rebranded as Dolní Vítkovice, is fascinating at any time of year, and the surrounding countryside becomes increasingly attractive through April and May.
Summer (June–August) Ostrava’s Colours of Ostrava festival, held in July, is one of the largest music festivals in Central Europe and draws international acts across multiple stages set within a former ironworks. It is an extraordinary setting and arguably the city’s finest week of the year. Beyond the festival, summer brings café culture and outdoor events to the city’s revitalised squares and riverside.
Autumn (September–October) Autumn in Silesia is culturally active and completely unhurried. Theatre seasons open in Ostrava and Opava, the beer culture is excellent, and the surrounding Jeseníky hills (technically Olomouc Region but best accessed from Ostrava) offer fine walking in near-total solitude.
Winter (November–February) Ostrava holds a well-regarded Christmas market and winter events, and the city’s industrial-heritage museums and cultural venues run full programmes through the cold months. The Jeseníky mountains provide modest ski resorts. This is a genuine city-break destination in winter — lively, affordable, and authentically Czech.
⛷️ The Giant Mountains — Krkonoše
Spring (April–May) The Krkonoše mountains in spring are transitional. Lower slopes clear of snow by April; higher trails may remain icy until May. Spring flowers — particularly the protected mountain flora of the national park — make April walks rewarding, and the crowds of both winter skiers and summer hikers have yet to converge. A genuinely peaceful time to be in the mountains.
Summer (June–August) Summer is the premium hiking season. The ridge trail (Česká cesta) traversing the length of the range, the ascent to Sněžka (the country’s highest peak at 1,603 m), and the descent through the glacial Giant’s Valley are all at their best in June, July, and August. Weather can change rapidly, but the days are long and the views from the ridge on clear days are vast and exhilarating. Mountain biking is popular on the lower slopes.
Autumn (September–October) Early autumn — particularly September — extends the walking season beautifully. The high ridges are quieter than in summer and the views are often cleaner and clearer. October brings the risk of early snow on the highest paths. The foliage lower down the valleys is exceptionally pretty.
Winter (December–February) Krkonoše is the Czech Republic’s most established ski destination. Pec pod Sněžkou, Špindlerův Mlýn, and Harrachov all offer downhill and cross-country skiing, and the infrastructure is well developed. Conditions are reliable from late December through February. This is the one region in the country where winter is genuinely a premium season rather than an off-season.
🌿 What to Pack by Season
Spring Layers are essential: a light waterproof jacket, a mid-layer fleece or light jumper, and comfortable walking shoes with grip for potentially damp cobblestones or muddy trails. Pack a compact umbrella, light trousers, and a scarf for cool evenings. Sunscreen is worth including from April onwards.
Summer Lightweight, breathable clothing is the priority, with a light cardigan or thin jacket for evenings. Comfortable walking shoes or trainers suit city breaks; proper hiking boots are essential if you plan mountain or cave excursions. Sun protection — sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat — is important, especially at altitude or during wine-country cycling. A compact rain layer folds into a bag without weight.
Autumn This is the packing sweet spot: medium-weight clothing, a good waterproof layer, and sturdy walking shoes cover almost every situation. Add a warm hat and gloves for October upwards, particularly in the mountains. Moravia’s wine harvest events reward smart-casual evening wear. A small daypack is useful for vineyard walks.
Winter Pack seriously for the cold: thermal base layers, a quality insulated or down coat, waterproof outer trousers for skiing regions, warm hat, gloves, and a scarf. Waterproof, grippy boots are essential — Czech city cobblestones become treacherously slippery when icy. Hand warmers are a small luxury worth including. For ski regions, hire equipment locally unless you already own it.
📊 Regional & Seasonal Summary
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🌟 The Overall Best Time to Visit
If a single recommendation is needed, May and September stand out as the finest months to visit the Czech Republic in almost any region. May offers the freshness of spring — blossom, birdsong, and a landscape not yet dried by summer heat — combined with a manageable visitor volume and pleasant temperatures across the lowlands and highlands alike. September delivers the richness of early autumn: warm days, golden light, wine harvests in Moravia, quieter crowds in Prague and Český Krumlov, and a sense that the country is, for a few weeks at least, being enjoyed at a more considered pace. Both months sit in that enviable shoulder-season sweet spot where the weather cooperates, the prices are reasonable, the accommodation is available, and the experience feels genuinely Czech rather than filtered through the lens of mass tourism. If you can visit only once, aim for late May or the first three weeks of September — you are unlikely to be disappointed.