After the lively nights of Arequipa, with its endless music and fiestas spilling into the early hours, Puno felt positively subdued. The town sits quietly by the shore of Lake Titicaca and seems rather proud of its unhurried pace, like a distant cousin who prefers slippers to dancing shoes. Architecturally, it will never win any beauty prizes – the streets are narrow, the squares small, and the buildings plain to the point of forgettable – yet it has its own character. People here are focused firmly on the great lake, and you sense at once that Puno exists because of Titicaca, not the other way round.
🚤 Setting Off Across the Bay
The following morning I signed up for the obligatory lake tour. You can’t possibly come to Puno and not go out onto Titicaca – it would be like visiting Paris and ignoring the Eiffel Tower. Our group was a modest bunch of ten travellers, and together we clambered aboard a boat that had seen better days but looked solid enough to survive the outing.
The first stretch was through the bay, cut off from the main body of the lake by a natural bottleneck. The boat chugged and coughed its way forward, and gradually the immensity of Titicaca revealed itself. What looks like a calm sheet of blue from shore turns into something vast once you’re actually on it. As the bay fell behind, the horizon stretched further and further until it felt almost like being at sea.
🌊 Lake Titicaca in Perspective
At 3,812 metres above sea level, Lake Titicaca holds the proud title of being the world’s highest navigable lake. The word “navigable” is key – locals like to remind you that yes, there are higher lakes, but not ones with proper boats and ferries. At nearly 200 kilometres long and 80 wide, it covers an area so big that you could mistake it for a small country if you looked at a map without labels.
But this is no mere puddle in the Andes. For the Tiwanaku people and later the Incas, Titicaca was sacred. Legend has it that the first Inca king, Manco Cápac, and his sister-wife Mama Ocllo emerged from these waters, hand-picked by the sun god to bring civilisation to the highlands. If you squint at the shimmering surface, you can almost imagine such a scene – although after an hour on the boat, I was mainly imagining a cup of tea.
🏝️ The Floating Uros Islands
Our first major stop was the Uros Islands – a collection of floating communities built entirely from reeds. Now, “floating islands” sounds romantic until you actually step on one. The sensation is rather like walking across a slightly damp mattress, soft and springy underfoot.
The Uros people have been doing this for centuries. They cut totora reeds, bundle the roots into blocks for buoyancy, and then pile new layers of reeds on top. Because the lower levels rot away, the process of replenishment never ends. It’s a bit like living on a permanent compost heap, but one that somehow floats.
We were welcomed by the island’s “president,” who gave a demonstration of how the islands are built. There was a touch of theatre to it, but you couldn’t help admiring the ingenuity. Around 120 of these islands still exist, with small communities living in reed houses, cooking over fires on clay stoves, and now, of course, greeting curious tourists like us.
The highlight was a short ride on one of their traditional reed boats. With dragon-headed prows, they look wonderfully dramatic. The actual experience of riding one, however, was closer to sitting on a floating sofa. Comfortable enough, if slightly wobbly, and certainly unique.
👨👩👧 Life Among the Uros
The Uros people are Aymara speakers, though some also manage Spanish and Quechua for trade and tourism. What struck me most was how resourceful they’ve had to be. For centuries, isolation kept them safe from conflicts on the mainland, but it also meant inventing a culture that revolved almost entirely around reeds and fish.
Even courtship is steeped in tradition – young men sing to their sweethearts and prove themselves through work and music. It all sounds wonderfully quaint, though I imagine less so on a freezing Andean night with no heating. Today, tourism is a lifeline, but it doesn’t seem to have entirely erased their customs. There’s a sense that the Uros are balancing two worlds – one ancient, one modern – and doing their best to keep both afloat.
⛰️ Onward to Amantaní
After the reed islands, we pushed on across open water. Two hours of choppy sailing later, Amantaní appeared. Unlike the Uros, this is a proper island, made of rock, soil, and sweat. Terraces climb up the slopes, evidence of centuries of farming, and stone paths snake their way past potato fields.
We disembarked at the village plaza – a modest square with a few shops and the unmistakable sense that time here moves at half the pace of everywhere else. Electricity is patchy, life revolves around agriculture, and tourism is still low-key. The locals gave us polite nods of curiosity, then carried on with their day, unimpressed by yet another group of sunburnt strangers in walking shoes.
It’s not a place of grand sights but of atmosphere. Standing in that square, surrounded by mountains, lake, and sky, you get a feeling of life pared back to essentials. And it’s oddly appealing.
🍲 Lunch and the Long Ride Back
By now, stomachs were rumbling, and our boat dutifully carried us back to the mainland, where lunch awaited. A simple affair – soup, fish, potatoes – but after hours on the lake, it tasted like a banquet. There’s nothing like fresh trout to make you forgive the endless rocking of a wooden boat.
The return to Puno was three hours of steady sailing. At first, I thought it would drag, but in truth it was rather relaxing. The boat rolled gently on the waves, the sun dropped lower, and conversation on board dwindled to the occasional murmur. Some dozed, others gazed out at the mountains. I did both, in shifts.
📝 Final Thoughts
Lake Titicaca is not just a lake – it’s an entire world perched high in the Andes, full of history, myth, and people who have adapted to its peculiar demands for centuries. The Uros, with their reed islands, show us how ingenuity can create homes where logic says none should exist. Amantaní reminds us of slower rhythms of life, where fields and terraces matter more than smartphones.
As for Puno, it may not win any awards for beauty, but it serves as the gateway to all this. You come to the lake, and the town is simply there, quietly doing its job. By the time we returned, I was sunburnt, windblown, and rather weary, but also grateful. Some days are more than just tours – they are lessons in endurance, survival, and the stubborn human habit of making a life wherever possible.
Planning your visit to Lake Titicaca
📍 Location
Lake Titicaca straddles the border between southern Peru and western Bolivia, sitting high in the Andes at an altitude of 3,812 metres above sea level. The main gateway towns are Puno (Peru) and Copacabana (Bolivia), both of which serve as excellent bases for exploring the lake and its islands.
🚆 How to Get There
From Arequipa (Peru): Buses to Puno take around 6–7 hours, with both day and overnight services available.
From Cusco (Peru): The scenic bus journey takes 8–10 hours, while the famous Andean Explorer train offers a slower but very memorable option.
From La Paz (Bolivia): Regular buses to Copacabana take around 4 hours, followed by boat trips to the islands.
By Air: The nearest airport is in Juliaca, about an hour from Puno, with flights to Lima, Cusco, and Arequipa.
🛥️ Getting Around the Lake
Boat trips are the main way to experience the lake, ranging from half-day tours to multi-day journeys with overnight stays on islands such as Amantani or Taquile. It’s worth booking through a reputable operator, as conditions on the lake can change quickly.
🕒 Best Time to Visit
Dry Season (May–October): Clear skies, crisp nights, and comfortable daytime temperatures – the best for boat trips and views.
Wet Season (November–April): Fewer crowds and lush landscapes, though heavy rains can disrupt travel.
💳 Entry Fees
Visiting the lake itself is free, but many of the islands charge small community fees (usually 5–10 soles per person) which support local residents. Guided tours vary in price depending on duration and inclusions.
The best time to visit Lake Titicaca
🌸 Spring (September–November) – Best Time to Visit
Weather: Mild and pleasant (12–20°C)
Crowds: Moderate
Highlights: Clear skies, wildflowers in the altiplano, and calm waters ideal for boat trips
Why Go: Spring brings a freshness to the highlands, with longer days and vibrant landscapes around the lake. The temperatures are comfortable for exploring islands and walking trails.
🌿 Ideal for walkers, photographers, and travellers keen on culture and scenery
☀️ Summer (December–February)
Weather: Warm but rainy (15–22°C)
Crowds: Moderate – mix of local and international visitors
Highlights: Green landscapes thanks to the rains, festivals such as the colourful Virgen de la Candelaria in Puno
Caution: Afternoon showers are common and can make boat trips choppy. Roads and paths may be muddy.
🧴 Bring waterproofs and sturdy shoes
🕶️ Best enjoyed in the mornings before the rain arrives
🍂 Autumn (March–May) – Another Excellent Option
Weather: Cooling gradually (10–18°C) with drier skies
Crowds: Fewer tourists than summer
Highlights: Crisp air, excellent visibility, stunning sunsets over the water
🍇 A great time for visiting islands without the bustle of peak season
📷 Perfect for relaxed sightseeing, photography, and cultural encounters
❄️ Winter (June–August)
Weather: Cold and dry (0–15°C, especially chilly at night)
Crowds: High – peak season for international travellers
Highlights: Crystal-clear skies, bright sunshine during the day, easy conditions for trekking
☔ Nights are bitterly cold – pack warm layers
🔍 Great for those who enjoy lively atmospheres with plenty of fellow travellers around
✅ Summary
| Season | Weather | Crowds | Experience | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 🌸 Spring | Mild 🌤️ | Moderate | Colourful landscapes, calm waters | ⭐ Best |
| ☀️ Summer | Warm & rainy 🌦️ | Moderate | Festivals, lush scenery | ⚠️ Be prepared |
| 🍂 Autumn | Cool 🌥️ | Light | Quiet, vivid sunsets | ✅ Great |
| ❄️ Winter | Chilly ❄️ | Busy | Clear skies, lively season | 🎯 Popular |