The Nazca Lines, while undeniably fascinating and mysterious, may be less awe-inspiring in person than the dramatic aerial photographs suggest, yet they remain an extraordinary testament to the ingenuity and symbolic expression of an ancient culture.
Peru: Paracas National Reserve & the Ballestas Islands
About Paracas National Reserve & the Ballestas Islands
The Paracas National Reserve, located on the southern coast of Peru, is a protected area renowned for its unique combination of desert landscapes and rich marine biodiversity. Established in 1975, it covers over 3,350 square kilometres, encompassing both land and sea. The reserve protects important ecosystems that support a variety of species, including sea lions, Humboldt penguins, flamingos, and dolphins. Its desert terrain contrasts strikingly with the deep blue waters of the Pacific Ocean, creating an otherworldly environment that attracts both nature enthusiasts and photographers.
The reserve is not only significant for its natural wonders but also for its cultural heritage. It contains archaeological sites linked to the ancient Paracas civilisation, which thrived in the region over two thousand years ago. These people are best known for their intricate textiles and mysterious geoglyphs, some of which can still be seen today. Visitors to the area often combine their exploration of the reserve’s natural beauty with a journey into Peru’s ancient history, making it a place where ecological and cultural tourism meet.
The Paracas National Reserve is also an important site for conservation and environmental education. Its waters form part of the Humboldt Current, one of the most productive marine systems in the world, supporting vast fisheries and an abundance of birdlife. The Peruvian government and various organisations work together to protect these habitats from overfishing, pollution, and other human impacts. As such, the reserve stands as a reminder of the delicate balance between human activity and nature, offering visitors a chance to appreciate the value of preserving fragile ecosystems for future generations.
The marine portion of the Paracas National Reserve covers a vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean, where cold, nutrient-rich waters from the Humboldt Current fuel an abundance of life. These seas sustain a complex food web, supporting fish such as anchoveta and mackerel, which in turn attract seabirds, sea lions, and even seasonal visitors like humpback whales. The coastal waters are also vital for endangered species, including the marine otter and certain sea turtle species.
The reserve’s shoreline alternates between golden sandy beaches, dramatic cliffs, and sheltered bays, providing breeding and feeding grounds for countless species. The interplay between the arid desert landscape and the vibrant marine life just offshore creates a striking visual and ecological contrast.
Often referred to as the “mini Galápagos of Peru”, the Ballestas Islands lie just off the coast from Paracas and are only accessible by boat. While the islands themselves are off-limits to visitors to protect the wildlife, the surrounding seas are alive with activity.
Here, the cold Pacific waters teem with fish, drawing immense colonies of seabirds such as guanay cormorants, Peruvian boobies, and pelicans. Humboldt penguins — a vulnerable species — also make their home among the rocky shorelines. Large numbers of South American sea lions and fur seals bask on the rocks or swim in the surrounding waters, their calls echoing across the waves.
My visit to Paracas National Reserve & Ballestas Islands
Exploring the National Reserve at Sunset
There’s something rather civilised about beginning an adventure in the late afternoon. No bleary-eyed crack-of-dawn alarms, no hasty coffee sloshed down in the half-light – just a gentle amble to a small bus, a comfortable seat, and the smug feeling that you’ve timed things perfectly for a sunset.
We were heading to the Paracas National Reserve – specifically, the land portion, as the reserve also stretches generously out to sea. This was the “Golden Shadows” tour, a name that had me imagining dramatic shafts of light streaming through mysterious rock formations. Whether that was the case or not, I had every intention of enjoying myself.
The bus rolled out of Paracas town, its streets gradually giving way to open stretches of pale, dry terrain. It took all of fifteen minutes – barely enough time to fiddle with my camera settings – before we were tumbling out onto the start of our walk.
Our guide, Mickey, a sprightly young chap with the enthusiasm of someone who had clearly not yet learned to be cynical, pointed us towards the beach. It was wide and empty, save for one thing: gulls. Hundreds of them. They were poking and prodding at the sand like obsessive antique hunters at a jumble sale, snatching up morsels revealed by the retreating tide.
We walked closer, crunching over shells and damp sand, and in an instant they rose together in a single, graceful sweep – an airborne curtain call. It was a marvellous sight. The beach itself was long, sandy, and quite untouched, save for our footprints and the delicate patterns left by the tide.
Just as I was settling into a comfortable coastal dawdle, Mickey pointed to a rather formidable rise in the land – a pale, windswept mound that, from a distance, had all the appearance of a large sand dune. He declared, with a smile, “We’re heading to the top of that.”
I chuckled. Surely he was joking. He was not.
Thankfully, the hill was not soft sand but a more forgiving gravelly surface. Even so, I puffed and wheezed my way up like an elderly steam engine attempting its first incline in decades. It didn’t help that, over the past couple of months, my most strenuous exercise had been lifting wine glasses and turning the pages of books.
When we finally reached the summit, all was forgiven. The view was magnificent – a sweep of ocean, coastline, and endless desert, all under a sky that seemed determined to show off.
From the top, our route carried us along the ridges that drop away into the jagged cliffs of the Paracas coastline. The ground here is an artist’s palette of colours – rich ochres and deep reds, streaked through with pale mineral deposits. The reason is geological drama on a grand scale: this entire area was once under the sea, until the restless tectonic plates off the Peruvian coast shoved it skywards.
Evidence of this upheaval is everywhere. On our bus ride earlier, I’d noticed tsunami warning signs, a gentle reminder that the Earth is still shifting and twitching under our feet. The high salt content in the soil, a souvenir from its marine past, means nothing green dares grow here. This is a landscape where life is sparse, the horizon unbroken by so much as a shrub.
Well, almost unbroken. As we walked, a handful of black vultures circled lazily overhead, their dark silhouettes gliding effortlessly in the thermals. Mickey explained that while the land may look lifeless, small creatures do eke out an existence here – and when they expire, the vultures are on hand to clear up the evidence.
It was an oddly reassuring thought that even here, nature finds a way to keep things ticking over.
As the afternoon wore on, the light began to change. The sun, lowering steadily towards the horizon, poured a rich golden glow across the barren ground. The ochres deepened, the reds became almost coppery, and the whole landscape seemed to hum with warmth.
This, of course, was the moment the tour was named for – the “Golden Shadows” that stretch long and dramatic across the desert floor. We stopped often to take photographs, each angle revealing another play of light and texture. Even my less-than-stellar snapshots looked like they belonged in a glossy travel magazine.
The sunset itself was a masterclass in drama. A scattering of clouds caught the sun’s final rays and held onto them, glowing from beneath as the fiery orb dipped below the horizon. Some clouds blushed pink, others burned orange, and for a brief few minutes, the whole sky looked painted.
It was, without exaggeration, one of the more memorable sunsets I’ve seen in recent years. Perhaps it was the setting – a vast, silent landscape – or perhaps just the knowledge that, in a matter of minutes, the show would be over.
The return trek to the bus was brisk, the daylight fading fast and the air cooling. Our boots crunched on the gravel in steady rhythm, and conversation turned to dinner plans – a sure sign that the magic of the moment had given way to more earthly concerns.
By the time we clambered onto the bus, it was properly dark. I sank into my seat with the satisfaction of a day well spent, already filing it away under “top memories” of the trip.
The Ballestas Islands
We had a very early start this morning as we were heading out on a boat to the Ballestas Islands. I had to be up and out of my room by 6:45 am. I walked across to the hotel, where our bus would be leaving later in the morning, and dropped my bags there in the storage room.
From here, we walked down to the harbour to catch a boat out to the Ballestas Islands, which lie outside the Paracas Marine Reserve. The boat filled quickly, and the biggest problem for me was that I could not get my legs behind the seat, and the person next to me had the same issue. These seats were designed for Peruvians, not northern Europeans! It was going to be an uncomfortable ride.
Our boat headed out of the safety of the harbour and into the ocean waters. We travelled along the rugged coast to a point where we could see a carving in the hillside above the cliffs — the Paracas Candelabra.
The Paracas Candelabra is a large prehistoric geoglyph measuring approximately 180 metres in height. It is visible from as far as 20 kilometres out to sea. Its form resembles a three-pronged candlestick, hence the name, although its true purpose and meaning remain a subject of debate among archaeologists and historians.
The geoglyph is thought to date back to around 200 BCE, during the Paracas culture, a pre-Columbian civilisation known for its advanced textiles, pottery, and cranial deformation practices. However, because there is no definitive evidence of its creators or original intent, various interpretations have emerged. Some scholars propose that it served as a navigational marker for sailors, guiding them towards the coast. Others suggest it may have had religious or astronomical significance, possibly linked to local mythologies or ceremonial practices.
The Paracas Candelabra was created by cutting trenches into the hardened surface soil, exposing the lighter sand beneath. This method has allowed the design to withstand centuries of erosion from wind and weather, much like the more famous Nazca Lines located further south. Due to its position on a steep slope, the figure has been largely protected from human disturbance, remaining well preserved over time.
As we pulled away from the cliffs and headed out to sea, our captain spotted a whale, so we went to take a look. It turned out to be a juvenile Bryde’s whale. These whales can grow up to 12–16 metres and weigh between 12 and 25 tonnes. This was not that large. Everyone on the boat was excited to see the whale, but I was most excited about being able to stand up and stretch my legs.
A little further on, we headed towards a fishing boat. The fishermen on board were pulling in their catch. Their activity had attracted a massive flock of Inca terns, which were swarming the boat. There were also many South American sea lions pestering the fishermen’s nets. It was fascinating to watch.
From here, we continued on to the Ballestas Islands.
This small group of islands is home to many thousands of seabirds and mammals. The islands are made up of rugged cliffs carved by the wind and ocean. There are many sea caves and arches among these islands.
Our captain skilfully navigated close to the islands so we could get a good look at the birds roosting on the cliffs and ledges. The population was mainly made up of Inca terns, Peruvian boobies, and guanay and red-legged cormorants. We were also lucky enough to see a handful of Humboldt penguins waddling between the rocks. As well as the roosting seabirds, sea lions had also come ashore to rest, and a few individuals had scrambled up the rocks and were posing for us – or so it seemed.
The guide on board also pointed out some structures on the islands. Some housed the park rangers on duty, while others were associated with guano harvesting. These islands are an important site for guano production, a historic industry in Peru. In the 19th century, guano — bird droppings used as a powerful natural fertiliser — was harvested here in large quantities, playing a significant role in the country’s economy. Today, harvesting is strictly regulated to preserve both the environment and the species that depend on it.
It was time to head back to shore. I loved visiting the islands, but at the same time, I was relieved to get off the boat and stretch my back.
The Paracas National Reserve – Red Beach, Playa Roja
After our jaunt out to the Ballestas Islands – all guano, sea lions, and birds with no sense of personal space – we thought we were done with Paracas. Bags mentally packed, feet pointing towards the next leg of the journey. But no. Our guide had other ideas. There was, he said, one last place we simply had to see before we left. Something “special”.
Now, when someone says “special” in a travel context, it can mean anything from “a jaw-dropping view you’ll remember for life” to “a rock shaped a bit like a potato if you squint”. We decided to keep an open mind.
The road wound through the same dusty desert landscape – all beige sand and occasional wind-shaped ridges – until we came over a rise and saw it.
Playa Roja. The name does the job in Spanish, and in English it’s even more blunt: Red Beach. And yes, it’s exactly that.
Even under an overcast sky – the sort of grey blanket that makes everything look like it’s been put through a low-budget Instagram filter – the beach had a distinctive reddish tone. Our guide explained that this wasn’t dye, algae, or some tourist gimmick. The colour comes from fragments of pink and red granite, rich in iron, that have been eroded from the cliffs just up the coast. The Pacific, never a shy wave-maker in these parts, carries the fragments along and deposits them here in great sweeping arcs.
On a sunny day, we were told, the effect is amazing – deep crimson sand against the dark rocky headlands, all framed by the bluest of blue Pacific waters. Sadly, our visit coincided with a sky that seemed to be auditioning for a role in a black-and-white film. The colours were there, just… toned down, like someone had nudged the “vivid” slider on a photo editor the wrong way.
Still, even in muted light, the contrast was striking.
Planning your visit to the Paracas National Reserve and Ballestas Islands
🗺️ Getting There
Paracas is easily accessible from Lima, with most travellers opting for a comfortable bus journey of around four hours. Direct services run daily, and booking in advance is advisable, particularly during weekends and holidays. If you prefer more flexibility, hiring a car gives you the freedom to explore the surrounding areas at your own pace.
🚤 Exploring the Ballestas Islands
Often referred to as the “Poor Man’s Galápagos”, the Ballestas Islands are a must-see. Boat tours depart from the Paracas harbour in the morning, taking you past the mysterious Candelabra geoglyph before reaching the wildlife-rich islands. Seals, sea lions, penguins, and countless seabirds await your camera lens.
🏜️ Discovering Paracas National Reserve
The Paracas National Reserve is a blend of desert landscapes and dramatic coastline. You can explore it by car, bicycle, or on a guided tour. Expect striking rock formations, red-sand beaches, and views that look like they belong on another planet. Entry tickets are available at the visitor centre, where you can also find maps and interpretive displays.
📜 Visiting the Paracas History Museum
For a dose of culture and history, the museum showcases artefacts from the Paracas culture, including intricate textiles and mysterious elongated skulls. It’s a small but fascinating stop to enrich your understanding of the region’s ancient past.
🎒 Packing Essentials
Bring sturdy walking shoes, sun protection, and a good camera. A small daypack will be handy for carrying water, maps, and personal items while you explore both land and sea.
The best time to visit Paracas National Reserve
Where to stay in Paracas
1. Mid Range: Casa Paracas
Casa Paracas is a stylish and tranquil retreat located in the scenic coastal town of Paracas, Peru, offering visitors a blend of modern comfort and laid-back seaside charm. Designed to make the most of its prime location, the property provides breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean and easy access to the Paracas National Reserve, a haven for wildlife and natural beauty. The interiors are thoughtfully decorated, combining contemporary furnishings with local touches that reflect the region’s culture and heritage. Guests can enjoy spacious, well-appointed rooms, a refreshing outdoor pool, and inviting communal areas perfect for relaxing after a day of exploring. Whether used as a base for adventure—such as boat trips to the Ballestas Islands—or simply as a peaceful getaway, Casa Paracas delivers a welcoming atmosphere and personalised service that makes it an ideal choice for travellers seeking both relaxation and discovery on Peru’s stunning southern coast.
2. Luxury: Hotel Paracas
Hotel Paracas, located on Peru’s stunning Paracas Bay, is a luxurious seaside resort that blends elegant comfort with breathtaking natural surroundings. Known for its refined architecture and stylish interiors, the hotel offers a tranquil escape while still providing access to a range of exciting activities, from exploring the nearby Ballestas Islands to enjoying water sports along the Pacific coast. Guests can relax in spacious, beautifully appointed rooms with views of lush gardens or the sparkling ocean, and indulge in fine dining that highlights fresh, locally sourced ingredients. The resort also boasts a world-class spa, two inviting swimming pools, and impeccable service, making it an ideal destination for both relaxation and adventure. Whether you’re watching the sun set over the bay or venturing out to discover the area’s unique wildlife and landscapes, Hotel Paracas offers a truly memorable experience.
3. Budget: Las Gaviotas de Paracas
Las Gaviotas de Paracas Hotel is a welcoming seaside retreat located in the beautiful coastal town of Paracas, Peru, offering guests a comfortable and relaxing stay with stunning views of the Pacific Ocean. The hotel combines a warm, friendly atmosphere with simple yet modern amenities, making it an ideal choice for both leisure and short business stays. Its location provides easy access to the Paracas National Reserve, the Ballestas Islands, and a variety of water sports and outdoor activities. Rooms are tastefully decorated, with many featuring balconies or terraces that allow guests to enjoy the fresh ocean breeze and panoramic sunsets. The on-site restaurant serves a selection of Peruvian and international dishes, often with freshly caught seafood, while common areas are designed for relaxation, from a sun terrace to cosy lounge spaces. Whether visitors are seeking adventure, nature, or peaceful seaside relaxation, Las Gaviotas de Paracas offers a convenient and charming base from which to explore this unique part of the Peruvian coast.
More to Explore
