The day began with what can only be described as a barbaric time to wake up. My alarm rattled me awake at 4:00 am, and I immediately questioned my life choices. By 4:30, I was meant to be in a minivan heading for Colca Canyon, lured not by comfort but by the promise of seeing condors – giant birds who, inconveniently, only appear mid-morning.
Most people on the tour would be whisked back to Arequipa by nightfall, but not me. I was carrying on to Puno, which meant I was slightly smug (or foolish) compared to my fellow passengers. Sitting half-asleep in the hotel lobby, I waited for my ride, looking about as glamorous as a potato in a bobble hat. Eventually, a man appeared, said nothing, and simply gestured for me to follow him into the darkness.
To my surprise, Arequipa at that hour was buzzing. On one side, workers trudged to early shifts; on the other, tipsy tourists reeled home from the bars. Life in the White City, it seemed, didn’t bother pausing for something as trivial as sleep.
🚐 On the Road to the Canyon
The van growled its way over cobbled streets and out of Arequipa with all the ceremony of pulling off a sticking plaster. No farewell views, no lingering glance – just gone. The drive would take about three hours, including a lofty mountain pass at 4,900 metres. Apparently, we did cross it, though I was half-conscious at the time and could confirm only that it was cold enough to make a penguin shiver. Luckily, I had dressed like an onion – layer upon layer, topped with a beanie – so I dozed comfortably while others froze.
☕ Breakfast in Chivay
By 7:30 am, we rolled into Chivay, a small Andean town that felt like a welcome embrace after the icy van. We stumbled into a café where hot coffee and simple bread rolls tasted like nectar from the gods. There was nothing fancy about it, but thawing out with steaming mugs and greasy fingers was one of those small, profound travel victories.
🏞️ First Glimpse of the Canyon
Back on the road, the landscape began to stretch and open up. And there it was: Colca Canyon. Often billed as one of the deepest canyons in the world, it plunges over 3,200 metres at its most dramatic point – more than twice the depth of the Grand Canyon, though less sheer. The Colca River snakes far below, feeding terraces clinging to slopes so steep they look like an agricultural dare.
It’s not just a spectacle of nature either. Pre-Inca people carved terraces here more than a thousand years ago, the Incas expanded them, and the Spanish later arrived with their churches and Catholic certainty. Layer upon layer of human history is etched into the rock face, all while llamas, alpacas, and even the occasional vicuña go about their day on the higher slopes.
🏘️ The Village of Maca
Our first official stop was Maca, a small village that’s as precarious as it is pretty. Its 850 or so residents live under the watchful eye of the Sabancaya Volcano, which has been erupting on and off since 2016. Earthquakes rattle the ground several times a year, and to add insult to injury, a massive landslide has been slowly inching its way towards the village since the 1980s. Imagine knowing that the earth beneath your feet might decide to slide away without warning – it certainly keeps perspective sharp.
The authorities once suggested relocating everyone, but the villagers chose to stay, stubbornly attached to their land. These days, tourism helps them cope. The square is lined with souvenir stalls, and women in vibrant traditional dress pose with alpacas who have been decorated with ribbons, hats, and even sunglasses. Yes, it’s theatrical, but it puts food on the table. We stayed a mere ten minutes – just long enough to admire the church, smile at a bejewelled alpaca, and move on.
🦅 Waiting for the Condors
The road snaked higher until we reached a spot where the canyon drops by 1,600 metres. This is where the condors are known to ride the thermals. Our guide cleverly dropped us off a kilometre before the main viewpoint, suggesting we walk along the cliff path. It was mercifully flat, though the drop was enough to make you careful where you placed your feet. Stunted shrubs clung to the edges, and the river was little more than a silver thread below.
Then, as if on cue, the condors arrived. First one, then several more, gliding with an elegance that no jumbo jet could ever match. These birds can live up to 70 years, boast a wingspan of 3.3 metres, and glide as though the sky itself bends to their will.
Andean mythology considers them messengers between earth and heaven, and watching them rise effortlessly on the currents, it was easy to see why. At one point, ten condors appeared together, circling as though choreographed. Cameras clicked, necks craned, and even the most jaded tourist was silenced.
🌋 The Main Viewpoint
Eventually, we arrived at the official viewpoint, already crowded with busloads of tourists who had skipped the walk. The atmosphere was less serene – selfie sticks everywhere – but the condors didn’t seem to mind. They continued to perform their aerial ballet, indifferent to the circus of humans below.
💦 Hot Springs (of Sorts)
Before lunch, we stopped at thermal baths. Some fellow travellers leapt into the pools or tried the nearby zipline, but I was unconvinced. The springs were concrete rather than natural, and having once soaked in far lovelier wild ones in Iceland and the Pacific Northwest, I found these a little underwhelming. Instead, I chose a shady bench and struck up conversation with a young doctor from Northern Ireland.
She had swapped the NHS for Australia, lured by better pay and working conditions. She spoke candidly about her experiences and her possible return to the UK to train as a GP. Between the medicine, she confessed a love for travel and had just completed several tough treks in the Peruvian Andes. Her enthusiasm was infectious, and it was a reminder that travel is often as much about the people you meet as the places you see.
🍲 Lunch in Chivay (Again)
By now, the sun was high, and the morning’s chill was a distant memory. We returned to Chivay for lunch at the same restaurant we’d breakfasted in. The food was hearty, the portions generous, and the pace of the day slowed to a pleasant plod. For most of my group, the next step was the three-hour ride back to Arequipa. For me, it was a goodbye.
🚌 Onwards to Puno
I switched buses, joining a different group bound for Puno. Six hours across the Altiplano lay ahead, which, if I’m honest, sounded less than thrilling. But that’s travel for you – a mix of moments that make your jaw drop and long stretches that test your patience.
📝 Final Thoughts
The Colca Canyon is everything at once – wild landscape, cultural heritage, and a place where humans cling on despite volcanoes, earthquakes, and landslides conspiring against them. The condors, of course, are the stars of the show. Watching them soar is one of those rare travel moments that feels utterly unrepeatable.
Would I recommend the 4:30 am start? Probably not to my worst enemy. But is it worth it? Absolutely. Sometimes the best things in travel require being uncomfortable, cold, and half-asleep. And sometimes, they involve standing at the edge of a canyon, neck craned, watching a bird the size of a small glider float effortlessly into the heavens.
Planning your visit to the Colca Canyon
📍 Location
The Colca Canyon lies in southern Peru, around 160 kilometres northwest of Arequipa. Twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in places, it is one of the world’s most dramatic natural landscapes and the perfect stage for spotting the mighty Andean condor.
🚐 How to Get There
From Arequipa: Most travellers join a guided tour, either as a day trip (very long and tiring) or as a 2–3 day trip with overnight stays in Chivay or Cabanaconde.
By Bus: Regular public buses run from Arequipa to Chivay and Cabanaconde, but these are best for independent trekkers with plenty of time.
Private Transport: Hiring a driver or joining a small group tour provides the most flexible and comfortable option.
💰 Entry Fees
To enter the Colca Canyon, visitors need a tourist ticket (Boleto Turístico del Colca):
Adults: Around 70 soles
Students: Around 20 soles (with valid ID)
Children under 12: Free
🎒 What to Bring
Warm clothing (mornings and evenings are cold, even in dry season)
Sun cream, hat, and sunglasses – the Andean sun is fierce
Comfortable walking shoes for trekking
Plenty of water and snacks
Camera or binoculars for condor watching
⏳ How Long to Allow
Day Trips: Good for a taste, but expect a very early start from Arequipa.
2–3 Day Trips: Recommended for a more relaxed pace, with time to trek, visit hot springs, and explore small villages.
The best time to visit the Colca Canyon