Potosí, once one of the wealthiest cities in the world due to its vast silver mines, is today a high-altitude Bolivian city where colonial architecture, mining heritage, and everyday local life come together in a striking yet often challenging environment.
Bolivia: The Witches Street of El Alto
🏘️ A Row of Painted Shacks
My guide and companion for the day steered me down a narrow side street that opened into a row of curious little shacks. Each one was painted in precisely the same shade, as though the council had issued a decree on what colour was permissible. The uniformity gave the place an oddly orderly air, which contrasted rather nicely with the mysterious business being conducted inside.
The sight instantly put me in mind of the seaside back home. If you’ve ever strolled along Brighton or Southend, you’ll know those rows of beach huts where families keep deckchairs, thermos flasks, and the odd battered windbreak. These huts, however, held no such holiday paraphernalia. These were the “offices” of the witches of La Paz.
Now, before one imagines broomsticks and black hats, I must make it clear: this is not the witchery of Grimm’s fairy tales or children’s Halloween parties. This is something older, deeper, and taken quite seriously by the locals.
🔮 The Witches of La Paz
My guide explained that between La Paz and its sister city, El Alto, there are some six hundred witches. That is not a number plucked from folklore but a figure he relayed with quiet certainty. Centuries ago, the Catholic Church persecuted these women and men, regarding them as dangerous rivals. Many were hounded and punished, as you might expect.
Yet times change, even here in the high Andes. Today there exists a sort of truce. Witches and priests, incense and rosary beads, share the same communities. It seems that people see no contradiction in attending Mass on a Sunday and then consulting a witch on a Tuesday afternoon about a sick child, a failing business, or a faltering romance. To an outsider like me, the arrangement felt strange at first, but the more I considered it, the more it resembled the way we in Britain consult both doctors and homeopaths, vicars and agony aunts. Humans, wherever they live, simply want all the help they can get.
🧑🎓 Becoming a Witch
One does not simply wake up and declare oneself a witch here. It is a calling, usually passed down through family lines. Training is long, apprenticeships demanding. There is even something akin to a union that oversees standards and practices. It all has a whiff of Hogwarts about it, though with far fewer owls and considerably more dried llamas.
Much as we have our favourite barber or GP, locals have their preferred witch, someone they trust and return to over the years. These witches are not mysterious figures hiding in shadows. They are part counsellor, part healer, and part intermediary with the spirit world.
🔥 Rituals in the Street
Outside each little shack stood a modest flat stove. These are not for cooking lunch but for conducting rituals. Offerings are laid upon the flames: sweets, herbs, powders, or carefully made blocks of sugar. The flames rise, the sugar melts, smoke curls into the thin Andean air, and the gathered onlookers bow their heads with a seriousness that would not be out of place in any church.
The whole thing struck me as oddly practical. It was magic, yes, but also community ritual, a shared act that gave people comfort and a sense of order.
🦙 The Shops of the Witches’ Street
My guide intended to introduce me to his own witch, but when we knocked politely at her shack, she was busy with another client. One does not barge into such sessions, so instead we wandered into a nearby shop that supplied the tools of the trade.
The first thing I saw gave me pause. Hanging above the entrance were dried baby llamas and pig foetuses, their twisted little shapes swaying gently in the breeze like some rather grim bunting. Back home, such a sight would provoke outrage. Here, though, they are accepted as essential tools for ritual, thought to carry symbolic power of great strength.
Inside, the shop was no less remarkable. Shelves bowed under the weight of jars filled with powders and herbs, small bottles of pungent liquids, and rows of brightly coloured sugar blocks. Each block bore intricate designs—symbols for wealth, fertility, health, or safe journeys. It felt less like entering a dark den of witchcraft and more like stepping into a spiritual pharmacy, each item clearly serving a defined purpose.
✝️ A Monument and a Name
At the far end of what is locally called the witches’ street, I noticed a tall column crowned with a statue of Jesus Christ. It looked surprisingly serene amid the clamour of the market. Matt, ever ready with a story, explained its significance.
This was no ordinary monument. It marked the place where part of the remains of Túpac Amaru II were believed to rest. Born José Gabriel Condorcanqui, he was an 18th-century Peruvian revolutionary who led a great uprising against Spanish colonial power. He claimed descent from the last Inca ruler, Túpac Amaru I, and became a potent symbol for indigenous dignity.
His rebellion was crushed in 1781, and he was executed in Cusco with unspeakable cruelty. His body was cut into pieces, each part displayed in a different town as a warning. Tradition holds that some of those remains came here to El Alto, which explains the monument’s presence.
History has its peculiar echoes. In the 20th century, the revolutionary’s name was adopted by an entirely different figure: the American rapper Tupac Shakur, whose mother named him in honour of the Andean leader. And so, by the quirks of culture, a Peruvian revolutionary and a hip-hop star share a legacy, separated by centuries yet linked by a name.
💭 Final Thoughts
What I had seen that day was no mere tourist attraction. The witches of La Paz and El Alto are woven into the very fabric of their community. They offer advice, comfort, and ritual in a way that blends tradition with everyday life. Their practices may appear strange—even unsettling—to a visitor from England, but behind the dried llamas and flickering flames lies a very human desire: to seek help, to find meaning, and to keep alive the threads of culture passed down through generations.
If travel teaches us anything, it is that belief is rarely tidy. It bends, adapts, and survives. Here in the high Andes, Christianity and ancient rituals coexist, each giving people what they need. And perhaps that is the real magic of this place.
Planning your visit to El Alto’s Witches Street
📍 Location
The Witches Street in El Alto, Bolivia (not to be confused with the smaller Witches’ Market in central La Paz) is located near Avenida 16 de Julio and the central market area. It is a bustling street filled with vendors selling ritual items, medicinal herbs, amulets, and offerings used in traditional Aymara ceremonies.
🚗 How to Get There
From La Paz: Take the Red Line of the Mi Teleférico cable car to El Alto. Once at the top, it’s a short walk or minibus ride to the market area.
By Minibus/Taxi: Minibuses marked “El Alto” depart frequently from central La Paz. A taxi is quicker but slightly more expensive.
On Foot: If you’re already in El Alto’s centre, the street is within easy walking distance of the main plazas.
💡 Useful Tips
Go Early: The market is liveliest in the morning, especially on Thursdays and Sundays when larger fairs take place.
Respect Local Traditions: Many items sold are for sacred rituals, so ask before taking photos.
Bring Cash: Small denominations in Bolivianos are best, as most stalls do not accept cards.
Stay Aware: Like in any busy market, keep an eye on your belongings.
Dress Warmly: El Alto sits over 4,000m above sea level, so the air is thin and chilly, even on sunny days.
Getting around La Paz
🚡 Cable Cars (Mi Teleférico)
One of the most unique and scenic ways to get around La Paz is by using the Mi Teleférico cable car network. Stretching across the city and linking to neighbouring El Alto, these brightly coloured gondolas offer incredible views of the mountains, valleys, and the bustling city below. They are efficient, inexpensive, and a far less stressful alternative to negotiating the crowded streets by car. Each line has its own colour, and connections between them are easy to follow.
🚌 Minibuses and Shared Taxis
For a truly local experience, visitors can hop on the ubiquitous minibuses and colectivos (shared taxis). They criss-cross the city and beyond, each following set routes marked on their windshields. Fares are very cheap, though they can be confusing for newcomers and crowded at peak hours. It’s best to ask locals or your accommodation for advice on which routes to take.
🚕 Regular Taxis
Taxis are plentiful in La Paz, but it is wise to choose radio taxis (booked by phone or through your hotel) rather than hailing one off the street, as they are safer and more reliable. They are more expensive than minibuses but still affordable compared to European prices. Always agree the fare before setting off, as most taxis don’t use metres.
🚶 Walking
While La Paz is a fascinating city to explore on foot, the steep hills and high altitude can make walking challenging. Short strolls around the central areas, such as Plaza Murillo or the Witches’ Market, are manageable and rewarding. Just remember to take it slowly, stay hydrated, and allow time to catch your breath.
🚗 Private Tours and Transfers
For those who prefer convenience and comfort, booking private transfers or tours can be an excellent option. Many operators provide hotel pick-ups and guided transport, especially useful for excursions outside the city such as Valle de la Luna or Tiwanaku. Though pricier than public transport, this option removes the stress of navigating and allows more time to enjoy the sights.
Eating out for vegans in La Paz
🌿 Ali Pacha – City Centre
Perhaps the most celebrated vegan restaurant in La Paz, Ali Pacha is a fine-dining spot that reimagines traditional Bolivian ingredients with a modern, plant-based twist. Expect beautifully presented tasting menus, with dishes showcasing Andean roots, grains, and herbs in surprising ways. A real treat for foodies.
📍 Address: Calle Colón 1306, La Paz
🌐 Website: alipacha.com
📸 Instagram: @ali_pacha
🍜 Red Monkey – Sopocachi
This lively café in the artsy Sopocachi neighbourhood serves up a mix of international vegan dishes alongside excellent coffee. Their veggie burgers, falafel wraps, and smoothie bowls are popular choices, and the casual setting makes it a great place to hang out.
📍 Address: Rosendo Gutiérrez 832, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @redmonkeylapaz
🛒 Sana Sana – Health Shop & Deli
Sana Sana doubles as a health food shop and vegan-friendly café. Stock up on plant-based essentials like nut butters, kombucha, and cruelty-free snacks, or grab a wholesome meal such as quinoa bowls, soups, and salads. Ideal for those staying longer in the city.
📍 Address: Calle Belisario Salinas 360, Sopocachi, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @sanasanalapaz
🍽️ Namas Te – Sopocachi
A cosy vegetarian café with plenty of vegan options, Namas Te is a favourite for its relaxed vibe and nourishing food. Think lentil stews, curry bowls, and fresh juices. It’s also a popular spot for yoga enthusiasts and creatives in the area.
📍 Address: Av. 6 de Agosto 2535, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @namaste_lapaz
🧁 Café Vida – San Miguel
Tucked away in the upmarket San Miguel district, Café Vida is known for its excellent vegan cakes and healthy brunches. Expect treats like banana bread, raw chocolate desserts, and quality coffee with almond or soy milk. A perfect stop for a sweet indulgence.
📍 Address: Calle Montenegro 984, San Miguel, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @cafevidabolivia
🥙 Sabor Vegan – Fast & Fresh
If you’re after quick, tasty vegan bites, Sabor Vegan is a small but mighty fast food option. They offer plant-based burgers, wraps, and bowls with bold seasoning and hearty portions. Great for a casual meal on the go.
📍 Address: Calle Murillo 972, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @saborvegan
🌱 Jugospace – Juices & Smoothies
A cheerful juice bar serving cold-pressed juices, smoothies, and light vegan snacks. Perfect for a refreshing break during sightseeing or to fuel up before tackling the steep streets of La Paz.
📍 Address: Calle Linares 906, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @jugospace
The best time to visit La Paz
🌸 Spring (September–November) – Best Time to Visit
Weather: Mild and sunny (10–20°C)
Crowds: Moderate
Highlights: Clear skies, colourful markets, and excellent conditions for exploring the city and nearby valleys.
Why Go: Spring in La Paz is crisp, bright, and full of life. It’s a wonderful season for strolling through plazas, riding the cable cars for sweeping mountain views, and heading out to Lake Titicaca or the Valle de la Luna without extremes of heat or rain.
🌿 Ideal for walkers, photographers, and those who enjoy lively street life.
☀️ Summer (December–February)
Weather: Rainy and humid (8–18°C)
Crowds: Lower – some visitors avoid the rains.
Highlights: Carnival celebrations, lush green landscapes, and dramatic cloudscapes rolling across the Andes.
Caution: Afternoon downpours can be heavy, with slippery streets and occasional travel disruptions.
🧴 Bring a waterproof jacket and good shoes.
☔ Plan indoor visits – museums, markets, and cafés – for rainy spells.
🍂 Autumn (March–May) – Another Excellent Option
Weather: Cool and dry (7–18°C)
Crowds: Moderate but thinning towards May.
Highlights: Crystal-clear skies with snow-dusted peaks, perfect for photography. The city feels calm after the rains, and day trips to Tiwanaku or hiking in the Yungas are especially rewarding.
📷 Great for photographers and culture seekers.
🍲 Combine your visit with hearty Bolivian food – autumn evenings suit steaming bowls of sopa de maní.
❄️ Winter (June–August)
Weather: Cold and dry (0–15°C, nights often below freezing)
Crowds: High – peak tourist season.
Highlights: Brilliantly blue skies, excellent trekking conditions, and bustling festivals such as Gran Poder in June.
⚠️ Nights can be very cold – bring layers.
🔭 The dry air makes for superb stargazing.
✅ Summary
| Season | Weather | Crowds | Experience | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 🌸 Spring | Mild 🌤️ | Moderate | Colourful, lively, perfect for walks | ⭐ Best |
| ☀️ Summer | Wet 🌧️ | Light | Festive, green, dramatic | ⚠️ Variable |
| 🍂 Autumn | Cool 🌥️ | Light–Moderate | Crisp, clear, cultural | ✅ Great |
| ❄️ Winter | Cold ❄️ | Busy | Bright, festive, trekking | 🎯 Adventurous |
Where to stay in La Paz
Sopocachi – Trendy and Cultural
Sopocachi is one of the most popular neighbourhoods for visitors who want a mix of modern comforts and local flair. It has a bohemian vibe, with leafy squares, independent cafés, lively bars, and plenty of restaurants serving both Bolivian and international cuisine. The area is also well known for its art galleries and cultural spaces, making it a good choice for travellers who like to be close to the creative heartbeat of the city. Many boutique hotels and guesthouses are tucked away in its quiet streets, while the Teleférico (cable car) offers quick and scenic access to other parts of La Paz.
San Pedro – Central and Convenient
Located near the city centre, San Pedro is a bustling area that puts you within walking distance of many of La Paz’s main attractions, including the famous Witches’ Market, Plaza Murillo, and Calle Jaén. It’s a lively neighbourhood, with plenty of budget-friendly accommodation options, local markets, and street food stalls. While it can feel busy and a little chaotic at times, it’s ideal for travellers who want to be at the heart of the action and don’t mind a bit of noise.
Downtown La Paz – For First-Time Visitors
If it’s your first time in La Paz, staying downtown might be the easiest option. Here you’ll find a wide range of hotels, from budget hostels to mid-range and more comfortable stays, all close to transport links and tour operators. Being central means it’s easy to join day trips to the Valley of the Moon, Tiwanaku, or Lake Titicaca. The area can feel crowded and commercial, but its convenience and accessibility make it a safe bet for newcomers.
Zona Sur – Comfortable and Upmarket
For those seeking more comfort, Zona Sur is an attractive alternative. Situated at a lower altitude than the city centre, it has a slightly milder climate and is considered the more affluent side of La Paz. Here you’ll find luxury hotels, modern apartments, shopping centres, and international restaurants. It’s not as central as Sopocachi or downtown, but it’s quieter and offers a more relaxed base for travellers who prefer a calmer environment. Taxis and cable cars make it easy to get back into the city centre when needed.
Miraflores – Balanced and Family-Friendly
Miraflores is a solid choice for travellers who want a balance between convenience and calm. It’s home to several parks, the Hernando Siles Stadium, and some good mid-range hotels. The neighbourhood is less touristy than downtown or Sopocachi, which means it feels more authentic and residential, yet still has enough restaurants and shops to keep you comfortable. It’s a good area for families or anyone who prefers a quieter base while still being within easy reach of the main sights.
1. Mid Range: Casa Fusión Hotel Boutique
I recently stayed at the Casa Fusión Hotel Boutique in La Paz and was thoroughly impressed by the experience. The hotel has a warm and welcoming atmosphere, with beautifully designed interiors that feel both stylish and comfortable. The staff were absolutely lovely, always friendly and attentive, which made the stay all the more enjoyable. One of the highlights is the location, which couldn’t be better – right next to the Teleférico, making it easy to get around the city, and just by Plaza España, which adds a pleasant local charm. It’s a perfect base for exploring La Paz, offering both convenience and comfort in equal measure.
2. Luxury – Atix Hotel
The Atix Hotel in La Paz is a striking example of contemporary Bolivian design, blending modern luxury with a strong sense of cultural identity. Situated in the upscale neighbourhood of Calacoto, it stands out not only for its sleek glass façade but also for its celebration of Bolivian heritage, with art and design elements inspired by the country’s landscapes and traditions. Inside, the hotel showcases works by renowned local artists, giving each space a distinctly Bolivian character while maintaining an international standard of comfort. Rooms are stylishly appointed, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and city, and the rooftop pool and bar provide one of the best vantage points in La Paz to enjoy the dramatic scenery. With its thoughtful balance of sophistication and authenticity, the Atix Hotel offers visitors a refined yet deeply rooted experience of Bolivia’s capital.
3. Budget – The Rooftop Bolivia
The Rooftop Bolivia in La Paz is a lively and stylish spot that has become a favourite with both travellers and locals thanks to its unbeatable views of the city and surrounding mountains. Perched high above the bustling streets, it offers a relaxed yet vibrant atmosphere where you can enjoy panoramic vistas of the sprawling cityscape, framed by the dramatic peaks of the Andes. The space is modern and welcoming, with comfortable seating areas perfect for socialising, unwinding with a drink, or simply soaking up the energy of La Paz from above. Known for its friendly vibe, upbeat music, and a mix of international visitors, The Rooftop has established itself as more than just a bar – it’s a social hub where people come together to share travel stories, meet new friends, and take in one of the most memorable views in the city.
More to Explore
