Potosí, once one of the wealthiest cities in the world due to its vast silver mines, is today a high-altitude Bolivian city where colonial architecture, mining heritage, and everyday local life come together in a striking yet often challenging environment.
Bolivia: Wander through the Valle de Las Animas
🚐 The Journey Out of La Paz
Our destination was the Valle de las Ánimas – the Valley of Souls. Although only a short distance from La Paz, the journey there took far longer than the map might suggest. This is not unusual in the Bolivian capital. The traffic seems almost to have a life of its own, a restless stream of minibuses, taxis, and people trying to get from one end of the city to the other.
What struck me, though, was how quickly the landscape began to change once we left the city centre behind. One moment we were passing crowded markets and busy streets, the next the road opened out into wide stretches of countryside. The air felt a little clearer, and the noise of the city gradually faded. As we gained height, the first hints of the valley’s strange formations began to appear on the horizon. Jagged spires of rock rose sharply against the sky, their shapes unlike anything I had seen before.
🪨 First Impressions of the Valley
The Valle de las Ánimas takes its name from these tall, narrow rock formations, often described as resembling spirits turned to stone. Some say they look like rows of organ pipes, others see them as teeth biting into the sky. Whatever image comes to mind, it is a landscape that leaves an impression.
The geology is fascinating. The spires are made of clay and sandstone, carved over thousands of years by the patient work of rain, wind, and occasional flooding. What remains are these impossibly thin towers, fragile in appearance yet standing stubbornly across the valley. The colours are constantly shifting – grey and brown in the harsh daylight, then glowing orange as the afternoon sun begins to drop. I found myself stopping often just to look, as each change of light seemed to reveal a new pattern or a fresh detail in the stone.
🚶 Walking Along the Valley Floor
Once our minibus had parked, we set out on foot. The path was fairly gentle to begin with, winding its way between the bases of the spires. It felt as if we had stepped into a different world. The city, only a few miles away, seemed very distant now. The walls of rock enclosed us, silent and still, though they gave the curious impression of watching.
Anna, our guide, led us to a section where the formations pressed particularly close together. Here we were able to climb into one of the narrow gaps, edging sideways between the clay walls. I paused for a moment inside, looking upward at the towers rising far above me. It was a humbling experience. These spires had stood for millennia, shaped by forces far greater than any of us, and here we were, small and temporary visitors.
🏞️ Climbing to the Viewpoints
After a while we continued further into the valley before tackling a trail that climbed steadily upwards. It was not too difficult, though at over 3,600 metres above sea level, even a moderate incline can leave you breathless. I stopped once or twice to catch my breath, telling myself I was simply taking time to admire the view.
At the top, however, the effort was entirely worthwhile. The whole valley stretched out below, an extraordinary jumble of stone towers rising in every direction. It felt otherworldly, almost dreamlike, and I found myself standing still for several minutes just to take it in.
Before leaving, our guide suggested one more climb. This second trail was a little steeper but manageable. From this vantage point, the valley looked even more dramatic. The light of the late afternoon cast long shadows, giving the impression that the spires were moving slightly, alive in some way. Then, turning to another viewpoint, we suddenly found ourselves looking not into the valley but towards the spread of La Paz below. The contrast was striking: one direction offered the timeless silence of nature’s work, the other the busy sprawl of human life.
🚌 The Return to the City
Eventually it was time to return. We descended carefully, the ground loose in places, until we were back at the waiting minibus. Everyone looked a little dusty, and more than one of us rubbed aching knees, but there was a quiet sense of satisfaction.
As we drove back into the city, I thought about how unusual this place is. Only a short journey from La Paz, and yet it feels like another world altogether. In the space of a few hours, we had gone from the clamour of traffic and markets to a silent valley of stone giants, and then back again. It was not a long trip in the calendar sense, but it was one that left a mark.
💭 Final Thoughts
The Valle de las Ánimas is one of those places that manages to feel both accessible and remote. It is close enough to visit in an afternoon, yet once inside the valley you could easily believe you had stepped far from civilisation. The strange rock formations are unlike anything I have seen elsewhere, and their sheer scale is difficult to describe until you stand beneath them. For me, it was a reminder of how nature can produce forms and patterns that no human architect could ever match.
If you are in La Paz and have a few spare hours, I would strongly recommend making the journey. Take your time, walk slowly, and let the landscape do the talking.
Planning your visit to the Valle de las Animas
📍 Location
Valle de las Ánimas (Valley of Souls) is a dramatic canyon filled with tall, needle-like rock formations created by centuries of erosion. It is located around 10 km southeast of La Paz, near the neighbourhood of Mallasa, and sits at over 3,600 metres above sea level.
🚗 How to Get There
By Minibus/Collectivo: From La Paz, take a minibus marked Mallasa or Jupapina (around 30–40 minutes). Ask the driver to drop you near the entrance to Valle de las Ánimas.
By Taxi: A quicker but more expensive option—ideal if you want to go directly to the trailhead.
By Tour: Some agencies in La Paz offer guided hikes that include transport.
On Foot/Bike: Adventurous travellers often combine it with a bike ride or hike from nearby Valle de la Luna.
💡 Useful Tips
Altitude: The valley sits high, so take it slow if you’re not acclimatised to La Paz’s elevation.
Footwear: Wear sturdy hiking boots—trails can be uneven and dusty.
Timing: Morning or late afternoon offers the best light for photography and cooler temperatures.
Essentials: Bring water, sun protection, and snacks, as there are no shops inside.
Weather: Conditions change quickly; carry a light jacket.
Respect Nature: Stick to marked paths to protect the fragile rock formations.
Getting around La Paz
🚡 Cable Cars (Mi Teleférico)
One of the most unique and scenic ways to get around La Paz is by using the Mi Teleférico cable car network. Stretching across the city and linking to neighbouring El Alto, these brightly coloured gondolas offer incredible views of the mountains, valleys, and the bustling city below. They are efficient, inexpensive, and a far less stressful alternative to negotiating the crowded streets by car. Each line has its own colour, and connections between them are easy to follow.
🚌 Minibuses and Shared Taxis
For a truly local experience, visitors can hop on the ubiquitous minibuses and colectivos (shared taxis). They criss-cross the city and beyond, each following set routes marked on their windshields. Fares are very cheap, though they can be confusing for newcomers and crowded at peak hours. It’s best to ask locals or your accommodation for advice on which routes to take.
🚕 Regular Taxis
Taxis are plentiful in La Paz, but it is wise to choose radio taxis (booked by phone or through your hotel) rather than hailing one off the street, as they are safer and more reliable. They are more expensive than minibuses but still affordable compared to European prices. Always agree the fare before setting off, as most taxis don’t use metres.
🚶 Walking
While La Paz is a fascinating city to explore on foot, the steep hills and high altitude can make walking challenging. Short strolls around the central areas, such as Plaza Murillo or the Witches’ Market, are manageable and rewarding. Just remember to take it slowly, stay hydrated, and allow time to catch your breath.
🚗 Private Tours and Transfers
For those who prefer convenience and comfort, booking private transfers or tours can be an excellent option. Many operators provide hotel pick-ups and guided transport, especially useful for excursions outside the city such as Valle de la Luna or Tiwanaku. Though pricier than public transport, this option removes the stress of navigating and allows more time to enjoy the sights.
Eating out for vegans in La Paz
🌿 Ali Pacha – City Centre
Perhaps the most celebrated vegan restaurant in La Paz, Ali Pacha is a fine-dining spot that reimagines traditional Bolivian ingredients with a modern, plant-based twist. Expect beautifully presented tasting menus, with dishes showcasing Andean roots, grains, and herbs in surprising ways. A real treat for foodies.
📍 Address: Calle Colón 1306, La Paz
🌐 Website: alipacha.com
📸 Instagram: @ali_pacha
🍜 Red Monkey – Sopocachi
This lively café in the artsy Sopocachi neighbourhood serves up a mix of international vegan dishes alongside excellent coffee. Their veggie burgers, falafel wraps, and smoothie bowls are popular choices, and the casual setting makes it a great place to hang out.
📍 Address: Rosendo Gutiérrez 832, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @redmonkeylapaz
🛒 Sana Sana – Health Shop & Deli
Sana Sana doubles as a health food shop and vegan-friendly café. Stock up on plant-based essentials like nut butters, kombucha, and cruelty-free snacks, or grab a wholesome meal such as quinoa bowls, soups, and salads. Ideal for those staying longer in the city.
📍 Address: Calle Belisario Salinas 360, Sopocachi, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @sanasanalapaz
🍽️ Namas Te – Sopocachi
A cosy vegetarian café with plenty of vegan options, Namas Te is a favourite for its relaxed vibe and nourishing food. Think lentil stews, curry bowls, and fresh juices. It’s also a popular spot for yoga enthusiasts and creatives in the area.
📍 Address: Av. 6 de Agosto 2535, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @namaste_lapaz
🧁 Café Vida – San Miguel
Tucked away in the upmarket San Miguel district, Café Vida is known for its excellent vegan cakes and healthy brunches. Expect treats like banana bread, raw chocolate desserts, and quality coffee with almond or soy milk. A perfect stop for a sweet indulgence.
📍 Address: Calle Montenegro 984, San Miguel, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @cafevidabolivia
🥙 Sabor Vegan – Fast & Fresh
If you’re after quick, tasty vegan bites, Sabor Vegan is a small but mighty fast food option. They offer plant-based burgers, wraps, and bowls with bold seasoning and hearty portions. Great for a casual meal on the go.
📍 Address: Calle Murillo 972, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @saborvegan
🌱 Jugospace – Juices & Smoothies
A cheerful juice bar serving cold-pressed juices, smoothies, and light vegan snacks. Perfect for a refreshing break during sightseeing or to fuel up before tackling the steep streets of La Paz.
📍 Address: Calle Linares 906, La Paz
📸 Instagram: @jugospace
The best time to visit La Paz
🌸 Spring (September–November) – Best Time to Visit
Weather: Mild and sunny (10–20°C)
Crowds: Moderate
Highlights: Clear skies, colourful markets, and excellent conditions for exploring the city and nearby valleys.
Why Go: Spring in La Paz is crisp, bright, and full of life. It’s a wonderful season for strolling through plazas, riding the cable cars for sweeping mountain views, and heading out to Lake Titicaca or the Valle de la Luna without extremes of heat or rain.
🌿 Ideal for walkers, photographers, and those who enjoy lively street life.
☀️ Summer (December–February)
Weather: Rainy and humid (8–18°C)
Crowds: Lower – some visitors avoid the rains.
Highlights: Carnival celebrations, lush green landscapes, and dramatic cloudscapes rolling across the Andes.
Caution: Afternoon downpours can be heavy, with slippery streets and occasional travel disruptions.
🧴 Bring a waterproof jacket and good shoes.
☔ Plan indoor visits – museums, markets, and cafés – for rainy spells.
🍂 Autumn (March–May) – Another Excellent Option
Weather: Cool and dry (7–18°C)
Crowds: Moderate but thinning towards May.
Highlights: Crystal-clear skies with snow-dusted peaks, perfect for photography. The city feels calm after the rains, and day trips to Tiwanaku or hiking in the Yungas are especially rewarding.
📷 Great for photographers and culture seekers.
🍲 Combine your visit with hearty Bolivian food – autumn evenings suit steaming bowls of sopa de maní.
❄️ Winter (June–August)
Weather: Cold and dry (0–15°C, nights often below freezing)
Crowds: High – peak tourist season.
Highlights: Brilliantly blue skies, excellent trekking conditions, and bustling festivals such as Gran Poder in June.
⚠️ Nights can be very cold – bring layers.
🔭 The dry air makes for superb stargazing.
✅ Summary
| Season | Weather | Crowds | Experience | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 🌸 Spring | Mild 🌤️ | Moderate | Colourful, lively, perfect for walks | ⭐ Best |
| ☀️ Summer | Wet 🌧️ | Light | Festive, green, dramatic | ⚠️ Variable |
| 🍂 Autumn | Cool 🌥️ | Light–Moderate | Crisp, clear, cultural | ✅ Great |
| ❄️ Winter | Cold ❄️ | Busy | Bright, festive, trekking | 🎯 Adventurous |
Where to stay in La Paz
Sopocachi – Trendy and Cultural
Sopocachi is one of the most popular neighbourhoods for visitors who want a mix of modern comforts and local flair. It has a bohemian vibe, with leafy squares, independent cafés, lively bars, and plenty of restaurants serving both Bolivian and international cuisine. The area is also well known for its art galleries and cultural spaces, making it a good choice for travellers who like to be close to the creative heartbeat of the city. Many boutique hotels and guesthouses are tucked away in its quiet streets, while the Teleférico (cable car) offers quick and scenic access to other parts of La Paz.
San Pedro – Central and Convenient
Located near the city centre, San Pedro is a bustling area that puts you within walking distance of many of La Paz’s main attractions, including the famous Witches’ Market, Plaza Murillo, and Calle Jaén. It’s a lively neighbourhood, with plenty of budget-friendly accommodation options, local markets, and street food stalls. While it can feel busy and a little chaotic at times, it’s ideal for travellers who want to be at the heart of the action and don’t mind a bit of noise.
Downtown La Paz – For First-Time Visitors
If it’s your first time in La Paz, staying downtown might be the easiest option. Here you’ll find a wide range of hotels, from budget hostels to mid-range and more comfortable stays, all close to transport links and tour operators. Being central means it’s easy to join day trips to the Valley of the Moon, Tiwanaku, or Lake Titicaca. The area can feel crowded and commercial, but its convenience and accessibility make it a safe bet for newcomers.
Zona Sur – Comfortable and Upmarket
For those seeking more comfort, Zona Sur is an attractive alternative. Situated at a lower altitude than the city centre, it has a slightly milder climate and is considered the more affluent side of La Paz. Here you’ll find luxury hotels, modern apartments, shopping centres, and international restaurants. It’s not as central as Sopocachi or downtown, but it’s quieter and offers a more relaxed base for travellers who prefer a calmer environment. Taxis and cable cars make it easy to get back into the city centre when needed.
Miraflores – Balanced and Family-Friendly
Miraflores is a solid choice for travellers who want a balance between convenience and calm. It’s home to several parks, the Hernando Siles Stadium, and some good mid-range hotels. The neighbourhood is less touristy than downtown or Sopocachi, which means it feels more authentic and residential, yet still has enough restaurants and shops to keep you comfortable. It’s a good area for families or anyone who prefers a quieter base while still being within easy reach of the main sights.
1. Mid Range: Casa Fusión Hotel Boutique
I recently stayed at the Casa Fusión Hotel Boutique in La Paz and was thoroughly impressed by the experience. The hotel has a warm and welcoming atmosphere, with beautifully designed interiors that feel both stylish and comfortable. The staff were absolutely lovely, always friendly and attentive, which made the stay all the more enjoyable. One of the highlights is the location, which couldn’t be better – right next to the Teleférico, making it easy to get around the city, and just by Plaza España, which adds a pleasant local charm. It’s a perfect base for exploring La Paz, offering both convenience and comfort in equal measure.
2. Luxury – Atix Hotel
The Atix Hotel in La Paz is a striking example of contemporary Bolivian design, blending modern luxury with a strong sense of cultural identity. Situated in the upscale neighbourhood of Calacoto, it stands out not only for its sleek glass façade but also for its celebration of Bolivian heritage, with art and design elements inspired by the country’s landscapes and traditions. Inside, the hotel showcases works by renowned local artists, giving each space a distinctly Bolivian character while maintaining an international standard of comfort. Rooms are stylishly appointed, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and city, and the rooftop pool and bar provide one of the best vantage points in La Paz to enjoy the dramatic scenery. With its thoughtful balance of sophistication and authenticity, the Atix Hotel offers visitors a refined yet deeply rooted experience of Bolivia’s capital.
3. Budget – The Rooftop Bolivia
The Rooftop Bolivia in La Paz is a lively and stylish spot that has become a favourite with both travellers and locals thanks to its unbeatable views of the city and surrounding mountains. Perched high above the bustling streets, it offers a relaxed yet vibrant atmosphere where you can enjoy panoramic vistas of the sprawling cityscape, framed by the dramatic peaks of the Andes. The space is modern and welcoming, with comfortable seating areas perfect for socialising, unwinding with a drink, or simply soaking up the energy of La Paz from above. Known for its friendly vibe, upbeat music, and a mix of international visitors, The Rooftop has established itself as more than just a bar – it’s a social hub where people come together to share travel stories, meet new friends, and take in one of the most memorable views in the city.
More to Explore
